About Schmidt

Discussion in 'New Zealand' started by Padmei, Aug 13, 2010.

  1. Padmei

    Padmei enamoured

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    <iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/js1hjL8evmM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
  2. Voltaire

    Voltaire Bored Of The Rings

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    wow...I hadn't seen that since it came out...they all look so young......Van Morrison....and Neil Young too? :evil
  3. Padmei

    Padmei enamoured

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    Dunno about you but made me feel real old:D
  4. innathyzit

    innathyzit AKA Woodman

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    That was pretty cool, never seen that before. Can you please stop posting those old music vids? because everytime you do i end up spending hours watching all the other ones that pop up afterwards, and I need my beauty sleep.:deal.

    The Janis Joplin and Jim Steinman interviews were particular hilights.
  5. Padmei

    Padmei enamoured

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    Driving home from work the other afternoon & I spy this silhouette of a bike sweeping around corner towards me. Dunno what it was that attracted my attention to it but it looked very cool. The bars were wide, the riders sleeves were flapping furiously as he rode maniacally hunched against the wind towards me at a fast pace.
    'Ahhhh old school stuff ' I smiled to myself as he roared up.
    A flash of red & blue on the tank & those great girthy cyclinders were beside me. Half a second later he disappeared from my rear vision mirror.

    I smiled all the way home.
  6. Padmei

    Padmei enamoured

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    Hmmmmm I wonder who from NZ is after these?

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/R80GS-R10...k_rvr_id=459369341425&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT

    When one takes about flex in the forks do they mean the for & aft movement of the forks - like a tuning fork vibration, or flex as in one of the legs bending or twisting more than the other?

    I notice when riding the bottom of my forks move fore & aft constantly. I'm taking that is normal.
  7. NordieBoy

    NordieBoy Armature speller

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    Fore and aft movement or over rocky ground where the wheel deflection makes the front wheel turn more/less than the input through the bars.

    Like old school MTB forks.

    Got a set of Rock Shox Mag 21's here that demonstrate the point nicely.
  8. Pete-NZ

    Pete-NZ Been here awhile

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    Wheel flex..front wheel & handle bars can move in opposite directions...
    Put the front wheel between yer legs..try and turn the bars..thats the flex.
    Old Mac1 500 had about 10* flex either way..
  9. innathyzit

    innathyzit AKA Woodman

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    Take my KLR for a hoon one day and do some heavy(any) braking and watch the forks. Thats flex.
  10. Box'a'bits

    Box'a'bits In need of repair

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    As I recall, you had the opportunity to fit bigger / less flexi-flier / modern forks, & decided not to bother. I thought Schmidtty was a 'Cruiser'. What has caused the concern now? It's a never ending chase your tail thing. Better forks, stiffer frame, less weight etc.
  11. Padmei

    Padmei enamoured

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    No don't get me wrong I like the front end on Schmidtty. Apart from square edged ruts or deep ruts it handles really well. I just was watching how the forks moved & wondered if that was what the dreaded flex was that people talk about.

    I think I get the answer but it would be hard to pick it up while moving wouldn't it?

    As far as Schmidtty goes, I've dropped the recond gearbox off to a mech to reassemble.
    Schmidt wil always be a cruiser however may make an appearance at a laid back this winter:evil
  12. Padmei

    Padmei enamoured

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    Mmmmm Mag 21s would have gone well with my biopace chainwheel
  13. Padmei

    Padmei enamoured

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    I received the gearbox back from my mech with new bearings & circlip, shimmed & reassembled. He was a bit unsure of fitting the rear seal as the inside diameter looked smaller then the speedo drive gear. I took it off his hands & decided to have a go at making some tools & installing it myself.

    Out of some scrap bar I cut up a ... um ... torquing bar. Cut some MDF for a seal putter inner & had a piece of exhaust tube 38mm to form the seal before sliding it over the speedo drive gear. I got some expert advice to not use seal grease (as was advised to by my mech mates) on the teflon seal.

    [​IMG]

    A bit of careful manipulation the seal was tapped in. I sealed the vent hole later don't worry:D


    [​IMG]

    I have tried to hide the salad fork in this photo as it tends to freak out some viewers. far out have you guys torqued one of those output shaft nuts before?? i think it was sposed to be at 150ft/lbs & my grunty torque wrench only went up to 150. I soon moved it onto the floor for more leverage.



    [​IMG]

    When that was filled up & ready I removed the swingarm etc & temp gearbox. I took the driveshaft out for inspection & had a feel of it for interests sake. I was a bit annoyed to feel a bit of notchiness on the rear end UJ that I had replaced a couple of years (& less than 10K km) ago. i took it down to my local bike shop I got it done thru. They had outsourced it to a co somewhere else.
    The mech spent 5 mins with a furrowed brow moving it back & fro thinking about it. I knew that i couldn't really send it back as it was a few years if not many Ks on it but wanted a 2nd opinion. He pointed out that there was no play in it as such but that notchy resistance could be a needle that has somehow moved out of place. We concluded that it would be better just to put it in & save for a rebuildable DS. It may last a while or it may get vibey soon. At least I know it's not the best.

    if you've seen my posts in the rebuildable driveshaft thread I will prob get one of these. I have been quoted about $500 AU + postage which is actually quite reasonable. It pisses me off that that UJ replacement cost $350NZ when I could've put that towards a rebuildable one. However if I remember they were pretty untested & more expensive back then.

    Anyhoo today I got the chance to put the fresh gearbox in. I checked the clutch (rooted a couple of those bloody clutch bolts again) & it looked good. Spent a bit of time looking at the clutch actuation rod & the spring plate. Over time it looks like the rod begins to push thru the hole in the plate. Looked at the 65 one & it looks the same.

    A few hours of greasy knuckles later the bike was back together & I started it up. The gears seemed to move thru easilyer than the older box on the quick drive down to the letterbox & back. I'll give it a better run tomorrow hopefully.
  14. Kokopelli

    Kokopelli Yeah, right!

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    I've read somewhere that torque wrenches are not very accurate at either end of their maximum range.

    Another thing I've learnt from Advrider rebuilds, that you are supposed to shine up the gearbox, so it looks better than new, before putting it back in. I think it helps to get the scope creep under way....
  15. Voltaire

    Voltaire Bored Of The Rings

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    Excellent, and your bench is so tidy.:D
  16. Padmei

    Padmei enamoured

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    An update.
    I took my youngest daughter (8) for a cruise around towards Mapua for an ice cream on Sunday & the gearbox & clutch felt very nice. I don't spose the bearings make any difference to the shifting however it was heaps smoother than the old Berlina box. I had replaced the selector roller which may had made a difference .

    The new neutral switch actually works however isn't instantaneous as the old one was. Was nice to see a lite tho.
    So far there aren't any oil leaks I can see but will check after I go for a longer harder ride.

    I found the new rubber boot from motobins was a little looser fit than usual so much easier to install.

    I thought about painting or polishing the box however I am a bit like pigpen out of Charlie Brown - I can't seem to keep them clean.:D
  17. Padmei

    Padmei enamoured

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    Went for another quick blat after we got home from our annual Hanmer holiday this Avo. The box feels soo much smoother than the old temp box I was using. there is no more whining coming from below & seems to shift easier - maybe due to the new selector nylon wheel.

    Anyway for those wanting to know the costs: (incl GST where appicable)

    Bearings thru "The Front Shop" Port Nelson $176.00
    circlip cutting & bearings pressed on at (good) engine reconditioners $165.00
    mech to put shafts back in & shim using Nutsos shim plate $100.00 cash

    Assorted seals ex motorbins........TBA

    6 different sized shims ex motorworks $12.00 (postage $20.00 for something the size & weight of a bloody $2 coin:eek1)

    Luckily everything looked good in the box so I didn't have to replace any expensive bits.
    I removed box, dismantled it (used a few favours from mech mates) & ran around getting stuff & delivering to different places which took a bit of time but saved me money.

    I was pretty shocked to hear of a gearbox being reconned in pommyland for 1000lbs including clutch:huh Wow - either they were taking the piss or there must have been a lot of broken bits in it.:D



    Edit: Had one of those 3am thoughts the other morning (when problems are usually solved easily for some strange reason) & wondered if the cheap degreaser I use when working on the bike has attacked the rubber bits making them easily damaged - hmmm.
  18. NordieBoy

    NordieBoy Armature speller

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    Carb cleaner can also stuff up rubber type components...
  19. Box'a'bits

    Box'a'bits In need of repair

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    So is this what you were thinking of? Don't have the other side sorry.

    [​IMG]
  20. Padmei

    Padmei enamoured

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    cool thanks

    Kinda... It can't be that hard to do - a simple bevel type drive. I'm surprised they're not that popular.