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Discussion in 'Airheads' started by England-Kev, Oct 1, 2008.
could you please ask him about the solo seat/rear rack setup?
Same one as the R100R's?
Nope. Different tank.
Ike's olive drab tank is an optional (but factory) R80G/S "Paris-Dakar" 32L metal tank. Typically seen with PD tri-color swoop decals. It has an extra "crease" just above the knee indent. I know, because I'm sitting about 3 feet from one as I type.
Still available new and in primer for $1200 or so?
That is so well preserved. My boss had this model so he had something shiny to park next to my G/S. He rode his K100 alot and I think I put as many miles on the ST as he did. This is almost exactly how I remember the bike right down to the accessory 650 fairing painted in factory ST colour but not including the fork gaitors and air horns. I'm not sure about the mirrors I sort of remember chrome and square before replacement with bar end type. Those mirrors would seem to be off a G/S
These are the same mirrors that are on my '84. I'm pretty sure they're the stock part.
yes they are.
PO was kind enough to throw in a GS tank with my ST. i put it on for the first time today.
i think i like it.
can someone please tell me what the two lines are on the bottom left side of the tank?
i know a couple of of folks on the site (airhead wrangler, norton 73) have added the GS subframe, which allows use of the GS solo seat and, i believe, provides a stronger base for adding aftermarket luggage. can anyone provide some insight into any potential complications with doing this. it looks pretty easy, mostly some nuts/bolts.
i bought this one from the second owner two and a half years ago. sold it to a kid in chicago.
My tank doesn't have these lines, but my guess is, that it's the water drain from the tank cap. You are lucky you got the tank as well. I got a new one painted plus added badges and that cost me about $400 US.
Not an ST, but..
thanks. consensus is that it's a drain. that's a fine-looking rig you have there.
One line will be the water drain which runs to the "well" which surrounds fuel filler opening. The other is probably the "SHED" emissions recirculation line which would have gone to solenoid/valve stuff which sits under starter cover on later model airheads. Keeps gas fumes out of the atmosphere.
I have the same tank and have been considering cutting out the filler-flapper assembly... wondering what technique others have used... sawzall and the like
At this time I'm thinking a good tank flushing followed by stuffing a rag inside, inverting the tank and going at the seam with a die grinder.... maybe even running air in at the petcock bungs. I may be the Count of Over-Kill.
I'm concerned about, and want to minimize metal fragments getting in the tank, though I'll be cleaning and prepping it for POR15 afterwards.
I have no intention to make a bomb of this operation.
So, how have others hacked this appendix out?
you mean like this:
Wasn't too bad. I used a sawzall with fine toothed blade and then a dremel with cut-off wheel(s). I washed tank out afterwards with lots of water followed by a bottle of rubbing alcohol, then left it in hot sun.
Thanks GimmeSlack - I like how you've quartered it... makes a lot of sense...
must be step #1.
The key thing, for me, was holding the tank securely. The sawzall blade tries to jerk the tank violently when it catches - not a good thing .
yeah, I can imagine the sawzall wants to buck.
I'll use the finest tooth blade I can muster, probably protecting the tank with 1/4 inch rubber sheet... .will mount the tank on a spare frame to get a grip as well.
thanks for the tips
I'd recommend using a die grinder with a 2" cutoff wheel (maybe even a dremel with a bunch of little cutoff discs) for this task. It'll result in a much cleaner cut. This is just a little too delicate of a task for a sawzall in my opinion. Cutting R100GS fenders, however, that's another story.
y'all need to go back and read my post - which in turn references another more detailed post. the sawzall works fine for it's intended purpose: you use it to make three vertical cuts. the circular "collar" cut is made with dremel cut-off disks (resulting in a VERY clean edge if done carefully). The vertical cuts merely divide the "collar" into three pieces so that they can be extracted.
The real trick is to leave a little bit of material when doing the horizontal cuts, so the piece doesn't fall in the tank. You can then bend it up and out with hemostats etc.
the annular cut would be difficult with the sawzall (also unattractive),
and the flapper-cup could be challenging to divide using the dremmel with abrasive cut-off wheels, but near impossible to remove without dividing.
I think we're all mostly in agreement on the execution, and I'm feeling a bit guilty over the thread hijack.
Hopefully I'll "git 'er done" during the week and will probably post the gory details over on the 'ST mod' thread Kev started.
It's one of those purple tanks :eek1
Can someone tell me whats the difference between the R80ST rear sub frame and the G/S sub frame. And for the next question, will any of the early round rocker covers fit the 84 motor with the square covers. Locky.