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Discussion in 'Central – From Da Nort Woods to the Plane States' started by somecallmetim, Nov 14, 2003.
Cool, give me a time to come get it or just pitch it over the fence to the dogs.
Apparently it is the tires, not the milkshake, that brings the buildit to your yard.
He doth speakith in riddles I say.
Maybe it was for her milkshake(s)...
Go here http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=19606977&postcount=12602
and read a page or two and that will explain it. I was confused too Mark had to explain it to the old man.
Don't look at the 950 tanks then
I get get it. Dam kids and there pop culture references.
Possibly because you have the SX model, mine has not only a wet sump but holds 2 more qts in the frame that has a spin on filter. (3 qt system) There is also a filter in the engine case I replaced with a stainless re-usable. Does your cover have external lines running to the head or cases anywhere?
btw, you should have room for more oil, you're missing a few parts in the transmission!
It's not all about oil capacity. WR250R only takes 1.4L
3,000 mile changes, 6,000 for the filter
It certainly helps though. Runs cooler and has all those nifty particles that bond to debris.
What I meant was that people are suggesting that race bikes were worse than dualsports because of reduced oil capacity and that's just not the case.
The higher-spec motors tend to have a shorter oil change interval, but those numbers are often based on the bikes being raced. Listen to Gorman, he's had everything from air cooled trail bikes to high-spec euros and knows what he's talking about.
I will say that the higher performance dualsports are more likely to break down in the long-term, their parts are often built for power or lightness and they're just not as durable.
Everything is a trade off.
Compression, oil path, filtration style and efficiency, and yes how and where its ridden all plays into how the oil is going to last. Temperature and contaminates kill oil, so how a bike treats its oil and how hot that oil gets determines quite a bit. Some of it you control, some of it you don't.
But, all things being equal the more oil you got the longer it's gonna last before breaking down.
If I was easy on my 1.2 liter TTR's oil, it would last 2,000 miles. If I did a 100 mile dual sport in the dust, it was shot.
:huh Dust? Why is dust affecting your oil? Your breather should either be breathing between your air filter and cylinder or have a filter on the end or at least some foam in the tubing.
If you want to complain about oil capacity, the CRF450 holds less than a qt of oil in the crank and less than one in the transmission (separated).
What kind of oil do you use?
What kind of oil should I use?
What ever is cheap and on sale. I have run yamaha,suzuki and honda oil all through my bike. Just get the right viscosity,the parts guru said it doesn't matter which brand, so I buy what is on sale. I ran mobil 1 synthetic through my quads until they changed formulas and added friction modifiers to it. It was $20 for a gallon and the "favorite" brand was $9.95 a quart.
^^ Screw that, everyone knows Wesson canola is the best.
yer not actually supposed to answer the "what oil?" question... that's like interweb motorcycle forum 101.
Oil? Damn I knew I was forgetting something...lol
I have to fill up with oil and check the gas in my '08 KLR. It uses about a quart every 500 miles...
For a bike they've been building since the dawn of time, Kawasucky has no excuse for that crap.