Advice on brake bleeding?

Discussion in 'Old's Cool' started by svejkovat, Sep 29, 2012.

  1. svejkovat

    svejkovat Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 23, 2009
    Oddometer:
    856
    That's it. I'm jus getting old. As read that post I remembered that I have one of those in my "welding" odds/ends drawer down stairs. I only tig, but I got a box of odds and ends at a garage sale a few years ago and since that one only applied to mig I just forgot about it!! You're right. Folds up like a feeler gauge set and has lots wire sizes nicely corrugated for cleaning.

    Thank you for reminding me.
    #21
  2. mark1305

    mark1305 Old Enough To Know Better

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2005
    Oddometer:
    6,123
    Location:
    Merritt Island, FL
    Always glad when I can help in any small way.

    And when you start forgetting some tools you already have, it just means you are starting to get closer to having "just enough" tools. :D
    #22
  3. Ron Seida

    Ron Seida Adventman

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,260
    Location:
    Home sweet Home!
    When i bleed motorcycle brake, this works well for me: If your brake pads are worn out, leave them in until you bleed the system as they will help you. With the calliper mounted on the bike, attach a piece of plastic tubing to the bleeder. Make sure it fits tight, you can use a zap strap to make sure. Also, make sure its long enough to easily reach your brake fluid reservoir. Using the front as an example, loop the tubing up over the front fender above the calliper, then back down to the ground to empty into a clear jar. Open your fluid reservoir and open the bleeder screw one full turn. Fluid should start to slowly creep up the line, this is good. Slowly pump the front brake, releasing quickly. You may have to cover the reservoir as often fluid may squirt up when you initially pump the lever, this is normal. Wait until the reservoir is almost empty before adding fresh fluid, by this time, the tubing should be full of fluid until it bends over the fender and spills into the jar. You can now see the old dirty fluid and the little bits of stuff floating around in your brake system. Keep pumping and adding fresh fluid in until the tubing is full of clean brake fluid. If there are no bubbles, then your done. Close the bleeder, carefully disconnect your hose and top up your reservoir.
    If you are bleeding a fresh system, like after changing a brake line, you need to continue pumping until all the air is gone. This is easier to accomplish if you run the hose directly into the reservoir as the fluid is all fresh, then you just re-cycle your fluid as your removing the air from the system. Just hold a clean rag over the reservoir while you pump if it is squirting out. I'll use some electricians tape to hold the hose in place. If your having problems getting all the air out, then close the bleeder. Take a screw driver and CAREFULLY pry open the (worn) brake pads, pushing fluid back up into the reservoir, check for air bubbles. then pump up the brakes to close the pads onto the disc, open the bleeder and continue recycling the fluid until all the air is gone. Continue this procedure until there are no bubbles escaping from the bleeder. I prefer this system to the air operated suction bleeders because you can see of you have even the slightest bit of air left in the system. I have used this system for years on both customers bikes and my own with 100% success.
    NOTE! Until you get good at this, there is a good chance you might get brake fluid in places you don't want it, like on your paint! I keep a spray bottle of soapy water and lots of clean rags nearby just in case.
    #23