AdvRider Stella

Discussion in 'Battle Scooters' started by climbamt, Dec 9, 2013.

  1. scootrboi

    scootrboi Long timer

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    I made a tail light assembly and put leds in the round fixtures. Works fine. Bright!
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/29821169@N06/9681064209/in/photostream/
    #61
  2. climbamt

    climbamt Been here awhile

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    #62
  3. JerryH

    JerryH Banned

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    After nearly 4 years and 10,000 miles, I have had a stator burn out, but all the bulbs are original, as unbelievable as that sounds.

    The Stella has an oddball electrical system. Even though it has a battery, the ignition cannot be run off the battery. There are 5 coils on the stator, and one of them only powers the ignition. The CDI box requires A/C current directly from the stator. The good part about that is that it will start and run with a completely dead battery, or even without a battery, the bad part is, if that coil fails, it will not run off the battery like a modern scooter or motorcycle. The charging system keeps the battery charged, but I doubt it has much extra capacity for hooking up electrical accessories. I was able to find a sealed MF battery for it here http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/ytx9bsbattery.html
    #63
  4. scootrboi

    scootrboi Long timer

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    #64
  5. conchscooter

    conchscooter Long timer

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    #65
  6. climbamt

    climbamt Been here awhile

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    Looks like a cool item. I think the Stella already has a conversion for 12VDC doesn't it? Although in second thought WITH a battery the battery acts to keep the voltage at a similar level so as to not blow bulbs as rapidly....

    #66
  7. conchscooter

    conchscooter Long timer

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    Stella is 12v but the mod charger will charge a phone / GPS even if you don't have a battery on your scooter.
    #67
  8. JerryH

    JerryH Banned

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    My Stella still has a battery, but I removed the electric starter. I saw a "battery eliminator" somewhere that you could use to replace the battery, and not have problems with blowing out bulbs, etc. The more possible trouble spots I can get rid of the better. The Stella is not a long distance scooter, so I don't need to charge anything.
    #68
  9. JerryH

    JerryH Banned

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    I removed the starter when I had the flywheel off to replace the stator. It was easy to get to, and I rarely ever used it. It was big and heavy, and I'm just the type that likes simplicity. It always starts with one or 2 kicks. I was told on what used to be stellaspeed (now scootercentral.com) that Stella starters are prone to early failure, and they are super expensive. So I wrapped it in newspaper and put it in a box in the closet. If I ever decide to sell the scooter, I can put it back on, and it will still work. I'll probably leave the battery.
    #69
  10. climbamt

    climbamt Been here awhile

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    So....

    My Stella had a burned headlight bulb when I got it. I replaced it and it almost immediately blew one side of the lamp out. I have now burned the 2nd side out. Does anyone have a test for the "switching unit". I have read that you can remove the switching unit from the bike, while others say it fries the system.... Does anyone have any long term knowledges of removing the system?

    Here is what I found concerning removing the switching unit-

    The way to by past the switching module is the following:

    Either take te grey wire (AC power) and connnect it to the purple wire (pilot and tail lights). This will cause both lights to run when the motor is running.

    Alternatively you can take the orange wire (DC power) and connect it to the purple wire. This will allow both tail and pilot lights to come on when the key is turned on but motor not running.


    I was planning on checking the Stator first. Testing Your 12v Regulator with a Multimeter

    http://scooterpromo.com/customer/scomo/testingregulator.html

    Please note that because the regulator is a giant zener diode, it is important that you note whether you are going positive (red) to negative (black) or negative to positive with the leads of your multimeter.

    On a five pole regulator you should get the following readings:

    Case to Ground (Black):
    Red to Black: 0Ω (Zero Resistance)
    Black to Red: 0Ω (Zero Resistance)
    +B (Grey) to Ground (Black):
    Red to Black: 0.02-0.04Ω
    Black to Red: 0.02-0.04Ω
    G (Yellow) to Ground (Black):
    Red to Black: 2-3Ω
    Black to Red:∞Ω (Infinite Resistance)
    Ground (Black) to A (Violet, both):
    Red to Black: ∞Ω (Infinite Resistance)
    Black to Red: ∞Ω (Infinite Resistance)
    +B (Grey) to G (Yellow):
    Red to Black: ∞Ω (Infinite Resistance)
    Black to Red: 2-3Ω
    +B (Grey) to A (Violet):
    Red to Black: ∞Ω (Infinite Resistance)
    Black to Red: ∞Ω (Infinite Resistance)
    G (Yellow) to A (Violet):
    Red to Black: ∞Ω (Infinite Resistance)
    Black to Red: ∞Ω (Infinite Resistance)
    A (Violet) to A (Violet):
    Red to Black: 0Ω (Zero Resistance)
    Black to Red: 0Ω (Zero Resistance)
    If you get ANY readings other than what is shown above chuck the regulator.

    5-pole DC regulator: Please note that depending on the manufacturer of the regulator that the colors or the letters may be different. However, B+ always charges the battery. There will always be two AC input slots (A/Violet on this regulator). Unless you have a late 70s P200, there will always be a redundant ground slot (the 4-pole regulator only grounds off of its case). And the final slot is your DC out slot.

    3-pole AC regulator: The B+ slot is missing on the 3-pole AC regulators since there is no battery to charge. Since no rectifying is taking place on this box the two AC input slots are interchangeable, attach an input wire to one and regulated AC will come out the other.


    Anyone have any firsthand experience??? :ear
    #70
  11. JerryH

    JerryH Banned

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    I removed the switching unit from mine, along with that really annoying turn signal beeper, and have had no problems. But I never had any problems before removing it either. I removed it because I had everything apart, and it is a known trouble spot. All my bulbs are original, after over 10,000 miles. I've worked on so many things lately I don't remember exactly how I did it, but you can find out on scootercentral.com, or just Google "Stella switching module" It is probably a good thing to get rid of it even if it is not the problem. It eliminates one more failure prone part, and there are no negative issues with removing it. Those things have been known to actually catch on fire.
    #71
  12. climbamt

    climbamt Been here awhile

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    Thanks Jerry!

    I found how to, I was more looking for information about the ramifications of doing it. Sounds like you have had great results. :clap
    #72
  13. climbamt

    climbamt Been here awhile

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    Thank you!
    #73
  14. climbamt

    climbamt Been here awhile

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    Spent some time tinkering on the Stella over the last few days while taking care of my Mom. Pulled all of the connectors and made sure the connections were clean and added dielectric grease to the connections. I was going to do the test on the voltage regulator, but it is a different set up than the diagram I previously posted. I did find a wired for the horn that required re soldering. Everything else looks like it is in good condition.

    [​IMG]

    When I pulled the rack off to sandblast and paint, the nut that WAS welded to the frame broke loose. I removed the gas and oil tank so I could access the bolt. I think I am going to clean it up and JB weld it back in place. You can pull up on it to get it tight as long as it stays in place after the tank is reinstalled.

    The petcock bolds were very loose, and I tightened them but it still allows gas to flow through when in the off position. I will order a new gasket and hopefully this will fix the issue. I will replace the gas and Oil injector hoses while they are out.

    [​IMG]


    While the tank is out I have access to the rear turn signal wires. I am going to hit up the You Pull It Junkyard and get new sockets that I will mount in the rear lens housings. I am going to run LED's and put 1157 style bulbs in. I will tap into the rear tail light so it has running lights in addition to the blinkers. I will install quick disconnect plugs which I think will work much better than the current system that the Stella uses. A sleigh bit less user friendly, but I think it will make a big difference in the connection and visibility.


    Pulled the Switching unit out, and will take the unit to the local electronics store to see if I can get a plug that matches. I will use the plug to join the Purple and orang wire together rather than cutting and splicing the wires. This way if I decide it needs the unit, it will be an easier replacement.

    About to order a bunch of small parts for her, and then it will be a massive crunch to put it back together in time for the Cold Weather Challenge. To bad it isn't together right now as we have seen some COLD temperatures....

    http://2strokebuzz.com/2013/11/30/20132014-cold-weather-challenge

    [​IMG]

    #74
  15. FizzyRascal

    FizzyRascal Been here awhile

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    Nice project . . . be lucky dude.
    #75
  16. JerryH

    JerryH Banned

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    The Stella is an interesting project isn't it? I find it far more fun to work on than modern scooters. I plan on getting a rear rack for mine. And I considered a top box, but decided it wouldn't look right on a Stella. So I'm going to get a roll bag instead.
    #76
  17. climbamt

    climbamt Been here awhile

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    Got a couple of things out of the way. Removed the switching unit from the Stella. I made a jumper wire so that if I decide to put it back in it will just plug in.

    [​IMG]

    Added some heat shrine to seal it.

    [​IMG]

    Removed the old glass style fuse and soldered and heat shrinked a blade style fuse holder to replace the old one. The old one used a smaller fuse than your typical fuse.

    [​IMG]

    I also cleaned up the wiring and secured it while I was in there.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    #77
  18. climbamt

    climbamt Been here awhile

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    I agree that a new style top box would not look good on a Stella or a P series Vespa. I have a faded Prima Rollbag that I will use on mine. If I could find a top box like the one on this Vespa I would consider it. I think you could use it as a camper it is so big.... :evil

    [​IMG]

    I would like to get a front rack for mine, as long as it does not interfere with the leg shield guard. I would have skipped the guard, but it already has hole drilled in the leg shield and I figured it would be a pain to try and fill/fix. Plus I figure that the bar that goes across the from might work for some LED driving lights and to carry a sleeping pad and bedroll... It is this style-

    [​IMG]

    Anyone have any advice for painting chrome black? I was going to sandblast it, but after the parts sat for 4 weeks at the shop and had nothing done on them, I decided to bring them home....
    #78
  19. conchscooter

    conchscooter Long timer

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    In my pursuit of a reliable old Vespa I talked to Gene at Scooters Originali about replacing the wiring in my 1979 P200. He said that as it's a (slightly mysterious) European spec Vespa, replacement wiring harnesses are available and one is on order. US spec 2-stroke Vespas havent been built in decades so ready to install wiring isn't apparently available so I feel lucky I wanted what I got, an early premix battery-free P200. Not to mention finding Gene as I have no desire to rebuild my own Vespa. Not if reliability is what I am seeking at any rate...
    In pursuit of reliability I think wiring is critical as intermittent faults can be the devil to figure out and can stop an engine in its tracks. Even more so when riding in the rain as shorts multiply when wet. Besides the original wiring on mine was as brittle as uncooked pasta and the exposed wires were as green as a two dollar bill. Glad to say goodbye to the mess.
    #79
  20. JerryH

    JerryH Banned

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    The wiring on the Stella is really simple, but they made a mess of installing it. I had to move things around and use several zip ties before I could get either the horncast or handlebar cover back on after removing them. Under the horncast, I stuck as much of it as possible back inside the hole in the leg shield. I don't think you will need that switching module, I threw mine away.

    My Stella is now kick start only after removing the electric starter, and may at some point also be batteryless and premix only as well. Without the electric starter, which is completely unnecessary, as it starts on the first or second kick, the battery really serves no purpose, as the ignition runs off a magneto. As for the oil injection, I think it works better than premix, but that's only IF it works. I've heard it is not very reliable on the Stella. And the ancient design engine is designed to run on premix.
    #80