Airhead Driveshaft Rebuild

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by motoboyvfr, Jan 19, 2008.

  1. motoboyvfr

    motoboyvfr Guest

    Does anyone know if there's a reliable driveshaft rebuilding service out there?
    I've got a notchy u-joint that's got to go. Thanks
    #1
  2. kbasa

    kbasa Roubaix! Super Moderator

    Joined:
    May 28, 2002
    Oddometer:
    72,498
    Location:
    Marin County, California
    Bruno's?
    #2
  3. jtwind

    jtwind Wisconsin Airhead

    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2004
    Oddometer:
    3,473
    Location:
    Madison WI
    Two fellows I know have had their driveshafts rebuilt by these folks and have been very pleased.

    Machine Service Industry
    100 Ashwaubenon St.
    Green Bay, Wi 54304
    Call Mitch 1 800 677 8711
    #3
  4. Stagehand

    Stagehand Imperfectionist

    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2004
    Oddometer:
    31,945
    Location:
    Shawangunks
    investigate HPMguy, also.
    #4
  5. jtwind

    jtwind Wisconsin Airhead

    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2004
    Oddometer:
    3,473
    Location:
    Madison WI
    You also need to know why it went bad. If it is out of phase that needs to be corrected also or it will just fail again and sooner.
    #5
  6. Solo Lobo

    Solo Lobo airhead or nothing

    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2004
    Oddometer:
    9,698
    Location:
    Shoreline, WA
    Mine's with HPMguy,

    I believe he is the only one who put in the replaceable, zerked u-joints as well as replacing the rubber cush with something more durable. He has a post in the vendors forum.... $450 for the complete service (inc's return shipping)
    #6
  7. motoboyvfr

    motoboyvfr Guest

    Who is this Bruno of which you speak. I've been away from airheads for too long I guess.:scratch
    #7
  8. motoboyvfr

    motoboyvfr Guest

    Thanks for all of the good info.
    #8
  9. Stagehand

    Stagehand Imperfectionist

    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2004
    Oddometer:
    31,945
    Location:
    Shawangunks
    I have heard nothing but good things about this place.

    http://www.brunos.us/
    #9
  10. motoboyvfr

    motoboyvfr Guest


    Thanks, their website looks great.:clap
    #10
  11. Dratharr

    Dratharr Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2006
    Oddometer:
    235
    Location:
    Western Nebraska
    I just sent mine off to Guy at Henderson Precision Machine, take a look at the website; that made my mind up on who I was going to send mine off too. He also has an exchange service that is available if you have a good core.
    #11
  12. helgaairhead

    helgaairhead Guest

    Ditto that.
    But there are some other importent done by Guy, he replaced the MAIN cause these shafts go bad and ruined the unis, the rubber dampening.
    When dampening gets old, it slips and the two shafts are twisting causing the whole shaft getting out of phase, and THIS causes the unis to go down the drain. I'm not saying this is the only and whole reason of driveshaft failure, but it is a big part of it.
    I had mine replaced by HPMGuy, he changed the unis by some greaseable easy removeable ones, due to circlips, together with new dampening of Polyurethane. WORKS PERFEKT.
    Think the photos are speaking for themselves.
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=130764&highlight=hendersen


    He is also a thrustworthy person, I'll reccomand him to anyone.
    Nice work as well.



    Helgaairhead :-)
    #12
  13. mark1305

    mark1305 Old Enough To Know Better

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2005
    Oddometer:
    6,321
    Location:
    Merritt Island, FL
    At risk of causing undue thread-drift, when is a good point in time/mileage to check the shaft for twist?

    Having recently joined the airhead community with a 83 R80 ST under 35k miles, I've done all the peace-of-mind things like all fluids & oils, spline lube, SHB and swingarm bearings check & lube, valve check & adjust, etc., but am trying to get away from the tear-everything-apart-and-check-it mentality I've used on other bikes.

    If I see no other symptoms of drive train gremlins I hope to go for another year before spline lube and check-whatever time.

    Is this one of those "don't fix it until it broke" problems that can be detected by checking for drive train lash and strange new noises?

    BTW, if you've seen me post around you know I've been wrenching cars and bikes for about 40 years, so if nothing else I have the "feel" for problems that I have a description of. But like every kind of machinery, you have to know what is good play/noise vs bad play/noise. And airheads are unique in some ways.
    #13
  14. Stagehand

    Stagehand Imperfectionist

    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2004
    Oddometer:
    31,945
    Location:
    Shawangunks
    Info I've gathered says that 70% of originals go south by 70K miles. Not many have gone before about 30K.

    It's apparently influenced by riding styles, minimally... keeping the driveline straighter (two-up and loaded) and keeping undue impact loads away help longevity. I myself wonder if the fact its a dry shaft, and that sometimes the shaft has some fluid in it from leaky trans seals has a little to do with throwing some grease out of hte U's... but thats just something I thought up.

    It can come on in as little as 500 miles, (me) although often its more subtle. I check it often, now. Thats easy enough- any clunking at all with rear wheel spin is cause for closer observation.
    #14
  15. Solo Lobo

    Solo Lobo airhead or nothing

    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2004
    Oddometer:
    9,698
    Location:
    Shoreline, WA
    I had 15% of twist on my 1993 R100GS at 42K miles.....
    #15
  16. Joerg

    Joerg Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 10, 2001
    Oddometer:
    1,358
    Location:
    Lausanne, Switzerland
    Lots of ... at least in Europe.

    Just for the record: The BMW airhead driveshaft u-joints can be replaced by "any" shop that does standard cardan overhaul ... they do not need to be specialized in motorcycles. The complete u-joint is available as a spare part from their suppliers, and the exchange as such is pretty much a routine procedure. Cost was, two years ago and in my area :D, about 130 CHF = 80 EUR = 120 USD per joint, plus shipping.
    #16
  17. TEXASYETI

    TEXASYETI Call me "thread killer!"

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2002
    Oddometer:
    1,986
    Location:
    Fort Worth, Texas
    I think you are exempt from this discussion! :clap The ST is a monolever bike which uses a totally different driveshaft design that - the best of my knowledge - does not have the issues of the later model paralever bikes, especially the GS bikes.

    Maybe it's because there is only one u-joint on the driveshaft or that it is bathed in fluid?

    Anthing else?
    :ear
    #17
  18. Stagehand

    Stagehand Imperfectionist

    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2004
    Oddometer:
    31,945
    Location:
    Shawangunks
    oh, man.. every once in a while I get it proved to me how dense I am. Thanks for the catch. I assumed we were talking paralever witout fully reading. DOH
    #18
  19. TEXASYETI

    TEXASYETI Call me "thread killer!"

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2002
    Oddometer:
    1,986
    Location:
    Fort Worth, Texas
    I was referring to Mark1305's post, not the OP. I believe in regards to the OP you are right on track as always!
    :thumb
    #19
  20. Stagehand

    Stagehand Imperfectionist

    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2004
    Oddometer:
    31,945
    Location:
    Shawangunks
    Maybe not-- He doesnt specify, (only says Airhead shaft?) and I have a only the 77RSin the sig to base a guess on, but didnt till now...


    SO which is it, Motoboy? Mono or Paralever? :wink: :lol3
    #20