Airhead Flea Market Thread (closed and archived)

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by apt13, May 4, 2012.

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  1. jjwithers

    jjwithers Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2011
    Oddometer:
    124
    Location:
    So-Cal
    Does anybody have a parted out 89-1990 R100GS?
    I'm looking for the upper and lower triple tree.
    Cheap is good!
  2. Pokie

    Pokie Just plain Pokie.

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2013
    Oddometer:
    2,068
    Location:
    Fort Collins, CO
    Want to buy 22mm flat handle bars from an earlier R/S. They were basically flat with the hand control area bent back a bit for natural wrist position.
  3. HTLang64

    HTLang64 HTLang

    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2009
    Oddometer:
    2
    Location:
    Sherbrooke Québec
    I have a 78 r100/7 seat that I would trade, send e-mail to g.longpre64@videotron.ca if interested and I will post pics.
  4. Ron Bernert

    Ron Bernert hiding in plain sight

    Joined:
    Sep 15, 2009
    Oddometer:
    393
    Location:
    Oxford, Ohio
    Beach Adventures tall smoked screen R100RS. Quiet and great in the winter and rain. $75.00 -SOLD!-
    [​IMG]
    Stock shocks, removed from a '77 R100RS. Good for 1-up, loaded. Add the wife, trunk and extra luggage for a trip, had to upgrade. have been on the shelf for 2 years. $50.00
    [​IMG]

    Hang 2 seat. Custom upholstery. Comfy as hell. No beauty queen... Comes with the pan, hinges and pin. $75.00
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    call me at (513) 518-8188 or email me at sentryron@gmail.com



    $175.00 takes all (plus shipping) If you buy it all, I'll throw in some other goodies. Thanks.
  5. slmyers

    slmyers .

    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2011
    Oddometer:
    2
    Wanted to buy or share swapmeet spaces at Barber Vintage Festival, October 11, 12 & 13, 2013

    Send PM if you have spaces to sell or share
  6. mfiato

    mfiato Adventurer

    Joined:
    Apr 24, 2013
    Oddometer:
    21
    Location:
    Upstate New York
    Previous owner of the R100R never installed it. I put about 25 miles on it and decided to take it off. The windshield and hardware are in excellent condition. Brand name is National Cycle.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  7. east high

    east high Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2009
    Oddometer:
    955
    Location:
    Portland, Oregon
    I'm looking for a right hand side fuel bowl that doesn't leak. I've already tried peening the tube and JB Weld. PM pls.
  8. seaswood

    seaswood seaswood

    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2008
    Oddometer:
    308
    Location:
    mas
    Still awaiting for Corbin to make the part:lol3
  9. walkingbear

    walkingbear Lets Play Chicken!

    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2004
    Oddometer:
    4,039
    Location:
    Scottsdale AZ..
    Need a set of 40 mm ATE brake caliper.
    $$ depends on condition. For a R90S front end.
  10. nilsey

    nilsey Adventurer

    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2010
    Oddometer:
    60
    Location:
    Chicago
    My 1974 R90/6 transmission is giving up the ghost... time to start looking for a new one....

    PM me or email me at nilsey (at the ole) hotmail

    edit: thanks to a member for tipping me -- what i'm looking for i guess is a pre-1981 long input 5 speed.
  11. .fisher

    .fisher pissin' in the wind

    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2007
    Oddometer:
    162
    Location:
    Columbus OH
    Looking for a decent set of rims for a /2 project.

    No preference between chromed steel or shouldered aluminum style. Not really after anything NOS or likewise in particular, just a set of clean and serviceable hoops for a rider. 40-hole / 18" / dimpled / etc…

    What's out there? :evil
  12. Motorrev

    Motorrev Semi-Adventurer

    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2010
    Oddometer:
    53
    Location:
    Texas Panhandle
    I am getting my 72 R75/5 ready to ride. It was tagged last in 1981. I got it 4 years ago and just now have the time and place to get it going. It came with a Windjammer fairing that I removed and in doing so the the headlight came off with the fairing. In other words the factory headlight shell, speedo and tach, and all the wiring is there, but the headlight that was in the fairing looks too big and not like the original fixture. Looks like to me I need a complete headlight with all the parts. Pretty expensive and don't want to order parts until I know for sure what I need. This headlight doesn't have the parking light in it, so know it can't be the original one.

    My question is what do I need to do or order to get this going? Does what I've written above make sense and is this a common problem after taking a Windjammer off?

    Anyones help would be appreciated as I've had a couple of airheads before now, but never did fix one up until now.

    Bob
  13. Pokie

    Pokie Just plain Pokie.

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2013
    Oddometer:
    2,068
    Location:
    Fort Collins, CO
    I feel your pain, the stock headlight on your bike has to be removed to fit the Windjammer. No part of the Windjammer headlight will fit your stock bucket, period. You need to buy the rim, lens, lens gasket, reflector, 5 holding clips, the bulb socket, the bulb, the park bulb and the light plug itself. If you look inside your bucket, they may have left the plug on.

    When we sold and fitted Windjammers, back in the 70s, we always made sure the original headlight was given back to the customer. What they did with it after that is anybody's guess.
  14. Motorrev

    Motorrev Semi-Adventurer

    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2010
    Oddometer:
    53
    Location:
    Texas Panhandle
    Pokie

    Thanks for your reply, even if the news wasn't what I wanted to hear, it's what I expected. The dealer in Lubbock installed the fairing on the day of purchase. He probably gave the owner the headlight but I am the 3rd owner. 2nd owner bought it in 75. One other question, the two chrome side covers only have clips on one side, so the other side is loose. No apparent clips on that side of each one? Wondered how they were suppose to be secured?

    Thanks again Pokie

    Bob
  15. oldroadie

    oldroadie Two wheel addict

    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2010
    Oddometer:
    786
    Location:
    North Alabama mountains
    My side covers used a pair of O ring elastics running from side to side between them and the tension pinched them against the frame tabs. They weren't really attached to bike per se but to themselves. I have no idea if that's correct bu t that's the way my /5 was.
  16. Motorrev

    Motorrev Semi-Adventurer

    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2010
    Oddometer:
    53
    Location:
    Texas Panhandle
    Oldrodie,
    I have seen the hooks on each of my side pieces and it makes sense that the way yours is, is about all you can do. I will find something stretchy to make that happen. Thanks for the suggestion. Bob
  17. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2011
    Oddometer:
    12,368
    Location:
    Silver Spring, Md
    [​IMG]

    This is the OEM rubber band, part #4. They will only last for a couple of months in most environments because they are common rubber. When they break the right side battery cover is lost. The left cover is held in place by the lift handle.

    The permanent fix for this problem that I like is to drill a small hole in the cover and use a small wire tie to attach it to the frame. It can be done so the wire tie is least visible.
  18. Motorrev

    Motorrev Semi-Adventurer

    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2010
    Oddometer:
    53
    Location:
    Texas Panhandle
    One other little challenge is mufflers for this 72 R75/5. The mufflers on it were terrible. Looked like cheap mufflers to begin with and were rusted big time. So, I need a pair of decent ones. This bike only has a little over 19K miles on it and doesn't look great by any means, but is a good one. I'm just wanting a nice looking daily rider. If anyone has a good pair of mufflers for sale, let me know. I also wouldn't mind buying a new set, but don't really want to spend $700 right now. Let me know your suggestions.
    Bob
  19. Motorrev

    Motorrev Semi-Adventurer

    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2010
    Oddometer:
    53
    Location:
    Texas Panhandle
    Thanks Disston, sounds like a good solid fix that won't break and can be removed when needed......Bob
  20. Pokie

    Pokie Just plain Pokie.

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2013
    Oddometer:
    2,068
    Location:
    Fort Collins, CO
    If you don't want to drill holes in the chrome panels (not my favorite), I have seen small-hooked, short length bungie cords that work real good for that. Course, if you want to keep them good, just take them off and leave them at home. I think the bike looks just fine without them but they are kind of expensive to replace when you lose the right one. You always lose the right one because the left one is trapped by the chrome lift loop, where-as the right one is only heald by the hooks on the subframe and the chintzy rubber band (by the way, they came doubled from the factory). When the rubber band breaks, the right chrome panel is left to flap in the wind.

    The best (and most expensive) alternative to muffler rot is to buy stainless. The next best thing is to never let them cool down. Our mufflers rot from the inside out, this is caused by not keeping them hot enough to burn out condensation and exhaust acids. If you ride your bike occationally or every day only a few miles, your mufflers will rot REALLY quickly. It only takes having to buy mufflers more than once to be able to afford stainless ones.
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