airhead parts - the dark secrets revealed

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by datchew, Feb 24, 2007.

  1. bpeckm

    bpeckm Grin!

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  2. Zodiac

    Zodiac loosely portrayed

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    http://www.mcmaster.com/#90219a330/=r16pc3

    Looks exactly like stock, 10x easier to install than stock with typical rivet press/gun.

    Cheap.
  3. Dispatcher

    Dispatcher FireDispatcher

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    Zodiac, no, not those...I'm .looking for the copper eyelets / hollow tubular rivets that secure the dash to the fairing.....that allow the rivets you are talking about to pass through (to attach windscreen).

    Thanks for the reply tho...
  4. Zodiac

    Zodiac loosely portrayed

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    That's what I used on my RS, they attach my dash and the windshield to the fairing (all in one).

    No copper rivets needed, these will fasten all 3 things together (I removed the old decrepit copper rivets on an older RS fairing).

    Unless I'm missing what you're saying:D

    [​IMG]
  5. Dispatcher

    Dispatcher FireDispatcher

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    I did the same as you on my S fairing.....but from the factory, there are hollow rivets (eyelets) that secure the dash to the fairing....then the plastic push rivets attach the windshield (throught the hollow eyelets) to the (already attached together) dash/fairing......

    GHD
  6. Zodiac

    Zodiac loosely portrayed

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    Agreed, my copper ones were all green and rotted, cut them off and went with the plastic McMC ones.
  7. boxerboy81

    boxerboy81 Stay Horizontal

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    I use the copper rivets flared in situ with a bolt, then fasten the screen with an interference push fit upholstery stud. Works beautifully, cheap, indestructable, reusable and less than a minute to remove and install the screen.
    [​IMG]

    http://youtu.be/atWOX3Sh-xg
  8. 685

    685 Scarred Adventurer

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    This is from the OP's first message in this thread. Still works, and the flasher is still under $5! Thanks to the OP for posting, I fixed my t/s's this morning and they work! (tho the indicator lite is burned out.)
  9. bgoodsoil

    bgoodsoil Dare to be Stupid

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    79-80 Points-in-a-Can points from Pep Boys are made by BWD, part # A520P. Seen here below the Bosch:

    [​IMG]

    Seems to work well but I don't have many miles on them yet. According to the Pep Boys website it fits 66 different cars. Oughta be easy to find.

    btw, everybody says you can run points with the 5k ohm plug caps from the electronic ignition--it will run but I've melted the insulator from the condenser on the can twice. The resistance at the plug cap must be so much that a bit of voltage is leaking through that condenser.

    One time it melted so much that plastic dripped down on the points. It killed the bike but I scraped it off and it fired back up.
  10. chiefrider

    chiefrider Chrome won't get you home

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    Hello, fellow Airheads!

    Three questions!

    I am looking to rebuild/upgrade my 1993 R100GSPD's forks with a Race Tech Gold Valve. She's a Canadian/Eurospec model, if that makes any difference.

    The bike has over 160,000 Km (100,000 miles). I had looked into this years ago, and it's my recollection that one should NOT use progressive springs with this conversion.

    Question #1: Is this right?

    I bought the bike used, and have not had the forks apart. I am assuming it has the original springs, but I won't know until I pull things apart.

    The most expensive items in the conversion/rebuild seems to be new stock springs.

    Question #2: Is there a test to see if the current spring is still up to spec, i.e., measurement of length?

    Question #3: Who has the best prices for new springs that would work with the Race Tech kit?

    [​IMG]
    Me & the bike crossing the Brooks Range.

    Tom in Salem
  11. DoktorT

    DoktorT BigBrowedNeandereer

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    I would discuss this with Ted Porter. He carries most all the good brand springs including stock and is very deep in BMW suspension knowledge.
  12. Square1

    Square1 Been here awhile

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    Three questions

    Question #1: Is this right?

    I bought the bike used, and have not had the forks apart. I am assuming it has the original springs, but I won't know until I pull things apart.

    The most expensive items in the conversion/rebuild seems to be new stock springs.

    Question #2: Is there a test to see if the current spring is still up to spec, i.e., measurement of length?

    Question #3: Who has the best prices for new springs that would work with the Race Tech kit?


    I just finished the fine tuning on My 92 R100R.
    I got the Gold valve emulators and the matching fork springs direct from Race Tech.
    It was around $300.
    Their website is very informative and matches your Bike/Model with the right product.

    http://racetech.com/ProductSearch/2/BMW/R 100 R/1991-95

    My main complaint was that the stock set up was to "harsh" / " hard".
    After some trials I ended up with the 0.90kg Fork Spring, 10mm pre load spacer, the softer blue spring on the gold valve, two extra holes drilled to the Gold Valves and 20W fork oil.

    You have to do your homework and be willing to take the Gold valves in and out a few time to make the adjustments.
    Its not that hard!
    They also offer a rebuilt service.


    M
  13. supershaft

    supershaft because I can

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    Yes, springs are pricy.

    Chances are your original springs are still good.

    There is a free length spec but I have never checked the free length new. If BMW's free length spec is like most of the rest of their specs, they never were that long to begin with. Built in dealership revenue generator.

    Preload the stock springs until the sag is about where you want it and see how they feel. There is still a lot of softer and stiffer ride right at your desired sag. I use metal washers to adjust. Just that much makes a big diff after you get your sag in its 'zone'.

    Best price? You probably don't need new springs. First things first! Good luck.
  14. mark1305

    mark1305 Old Enough To Know Better

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    Without going into the whole long story again, I bought a complete newly set up front end for my R80 ST with RT emulators, their springs, etc. Way too harsh and high rate springs even for my 220lbs. Tried a few different springs I had on hand. (I know a little about suspension tuning from over the years). Surprise! The ideal sag and spring rate came from using my original and slightly sagged ST springs over the 50mm or so preload created by the height of the emulators and their spacers. That's a lot of preload, but combined just right with the old plush progressive OEM springs. Pure luck that I even tried it, let alone it worked out.

    Tip: If you don't have one, get one of those cheap telescoping magnets to reach in and lift out the emulators by its steel screw for the one or two tweaks you may need to make to the adjusters on the emulator springs. (And remove the fork springs VERY slowly each time to allow the oil to drip and spiral down into the fork tube and not onto the floor. DAMHIK)
  15. garthg

    garthg Been here awhile

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    Here, I part company with Supershaft, just based on my own experience restoring an R75/5. The bike had a heavy Luftmeister/Windjammer-type fairing on it in its past life, with about 40,000+ miles and original springs when I bought it. The springs were very sagged, such that on normal braking, the forks would bottom out and stay down.
    A new set of OEM springs gave the fork a much more lively and connected feel and eliminated all the sagging.
    New OEM springs are $43 apiece, $86 the pair. They'll certainly last at least years. As part of an overall restoration of a 40-year old bike, it's not a killer expense.
  16. supershaft

    supershaft because I can

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    Just to clarify. I am not even suggesting that springs don't sag out. I am saying that in my experience it is extremely rare. I have worked on a lot of old bikes and I have yet to see springs in as bad of shape as garthg describes.
  17. chasbmw

    chasbmw Long timer

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    Back in the day it was SOP with /6s to remove stock springs and replace with BMW hard.
  18. chasbmw

    chasbmw Long timer

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    I think that The Racetech suggested settings for BMWs are not right, and I don't think that they have fully cottoned on that there are at least 3 different sets of fork internals used in airheads. If going down the Racetech route you need to be prepared to set up your forks from first principals.
  19. jackafrica

    jackafrica sinking low in the saddle

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    The original switch number WAS 34 31 1 233 959
    Replaced with P/N 61 31 1 244 334

    Compatible with P/N 113945515H
    This is a Porsche, VW part number.

    Original switch is $33, replacement switch non genuine, found under that number $5.
    Can be found on ebay or google search the part numbers.

    The switch should be a 2 pin type.

    Hope this helps.
  20. Kai Ju

    Kai Ju Long timer

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    ^^^
    Thanks, nice find.