Airhead rearsets?

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by BiG DoM, Mar 19, 2011.

  1. BiG DoM

    BiG DoM African Adventurer

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    :norton
    Can anyone give feed back regarding the Raask and Veloci rearsets (and any other plug and play makes). From what I can make out the Veloci uses existing frame holes and the Raask has a bolt on backing plate (this from pics on Omar's). Do the Raasks hand lower or are more comfortable. Pricing looks very similar.
    #1
  2. Naed Nekkod

    Naed Nekkod Banned

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    heres a nice set I may look into.

    http://www.rearsets.info/bmw_rearsets.html
    #2
  3. BiG DoM

    BiG DoM African Adventurer

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    That is the Veloci set I am referring to above - how do you think they compare to the Raask set on the same site?
    #3
  4. jtwind

    jtwind Wisconsin Airhead

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    No experience with the veloci. Had some Raask's on a r65. Fit and worked fine, a little crude, the mounting plate was just a cast hunk of steel. No instructions if I remember right. If I would have kept the bike I would have redone the mounting plate in aluminum.
    #4
  5. bpeckm

    bpeckm Grin!

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    iirc, mymindsok came up with an elegant setup...maybe he will chime in?

    Ihave them bookmarked, but on the other computer, will post them up t'morrow...
    :D
    #5
  6. CATPart

    CATPart Adventurer

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    Give me some time and I will post a BUNCH of pictures of the veloci rear sets for you, as well as good explanation of the issues I encountered. You can see them on my bike in the pictures here. I have a bunch of close up detailed shots I took durring the install that I will post. I took the pictures because there didn't seem to be any good pictures of them on the internet.
    #6
  7. CATPart

    CATPart Adventurer

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    I uploaded a bunch of pictures with captions to my google account. I will only add a couple pictures to the thread here because I am lazy, but click the link and you should see everything you want to see. I can get some higher resolution pics if you want.

    First I want to say that I ordered my sets direct from the manufacturer in Italy. They showed up at my door in 12 days and it was cheaper than buying from a local source. During the install I encountered a problem with the transmission linkage (it was not bent correctly). Motocicli Veloci made a new part for me to my specifications and sent it to me, all for free. It was great service, and I truly appreciate their kind effort in making me a happy customer (speak to Massimo if you are concerned about this).

    The Install:
    Went smooth for the most part. Very easy to install unless you have the same minor problems I had. I encountered two problems. First, the left footpeg was totally crooked after mounting. This may have been because of a bent frame, but my frame looked totally normal to me. I had to create a pair of angled washers to straighten out the peg, looks great now. Second problem, the shift linkage was not correct for my bike. I got a new linkage for free from the manufacturer and problem solved. See my picture album for details.

    I have not ridden the bike enough to give you any thoughts on the feel of these controls. I just got it running a few days ago.

    Here is the full link to the picture album:
    https://picasaweb.google.com/100397...assicBMWRearSets?authkey=Gv1sRgCM3O55eTiYXhMw#


    [​IMG]

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    #7
  8. Hawk Medicine

    Hawk Medicine Coyote's Brother

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    Hi Guys!

    If you go to the following thread, you'll find plenty of info concerning my install of the MV rearsets, on my R90 Hot Rod.

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=569979

    At this point I have about 6K miles on the reconstructed bike and I can say this...

    I bought my equipment from Omar's Rearsets, even though I knew that they were available direct from Europe. Why? because I was tired of the song-and-dance involved with communicating in other languages, I wanted to be able to readily return the parts if I had huge problems and shipping from Europe is usually very expensive and in the end doesn't save any significant $$$ compared to the risks. (Sorry, but returning parts to Motoren Israel and some of the other suppliers is a nightmare! They kept my parts and my money! :huh) Omar got my parts to me within three days, quickly answered my few questions and seemed to have a good attitude, even offering me a refund if I didn't like the product.

    The RSs make you bend your legs into much more of a racers crouch than standard pegs and while I like that, I doubt that I'd be able to stand it for long if I was an inch taller (I'm 5:11 with a 30" inseam.). On long rides I frequently find that my feet have slipped a little lower on the pegs and I have to get back on my toes but it's no deal breaker but I'm thinking about moving them back just a little (Maybe 1/2".), to give me a scoosh more room. Please note: If you don't keep the balls of your feet on the pegs, you'll drag your boot in turns. A constant little reminder to watch your form!

    The stock BMW peg/muffler mounts really aren't intended for mounting rearsets with such a small footprint and mine are no longer sitting at a perfect 90 deg angle, so if you intend to use these rearsets, weld a large washer or other steel reinforcement to the back of the bracket. Thats what I'm going to be doing. Something else to think about is that the brake lever on the MV rearsets is leverage challenged and you're going to lose 80% of your rear brakes stopping power. If you're one of those guys who never uses the rear brake, fine. OTOH, if you're like me and you like using it all the time, you'll soon be learning a new braking technique or scheming about how to change your brake lever length.

    Once installed and properly adjusted, the rearsets work flawlessly and really look the bizzness, so I'd rate them at 75 to 80 points out of 100. If my rear brake was more effective, they'd get 100 points no problem.

    It's really hard to compare these to the Raask stuff because they're such different animals. The Raasks (An older design.) are much more complicated and you need the correct mounting plate to install them but OTOH, once you have a set of Rassk's, you can easily order whatever parts you need in order to transfer them to your next bike. I just think they're over-complicated and a little clumsy but the upside is that you'll lose less of your rear brake leverage and they work well. Thats a good thing.

    So... Do I like the MV rearsets? Yes. Are they perfect? No! Would I buy them again? Considering the lack availability of other/better parts.... Probably, but I'd have to think about it.
    #8
  9. CATPart

    CATPart Adventurer

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    Well I took a ride today and I can confirm what mymindsok reports about the rear brake...it was pretty much worthless. On a positive note, the riding position felt great and the shifting was perfect, I have no complaints.

    Mymindsok, did you have any of the install problems I had, especially concerning the shift linkage? I have a '76 R90/6. I wonder if there are variations in the frame or trans geometry.

    Another thing about the rear brake..If you have an aftermarket sporty exhaust like I do (Luftmiester 2 into 1), you will notice the brake lever is very close to the exhaust. It doesn't touch, but my foot will touch the exhaust pipe if I really push on the pedal. The way the rearset is designed does not allow you to adjust the height of the brake pedal, but it could be modified to do so.
    #9
  10. Hawk Medicine

    Hawk Medicine Coyote's Brother

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    Well CATpart,

    You aren't really specific about your problems with the shift linkage but I did have a problem. and it's documented in my old thread.

    When I mocked everything up and measured the shift rod, it appeared as if the only trans lever I could use was one from a GS and that particular one angles pretty far forward. Unfortunately, that set-up didn't work very well.

    Luckily, inmate Max Headroom suggested that I try a different shifter and one from an RS looked to have a better angle. After measuring again, chopping off the end of the linkage and rethreading it, all has been well with the world but I'm still thinking about the rear brake situation.

    Ok... I went and looked at your photos and yes , my shift rod was a little long as was yours. You asked for a new part and I fixed the part I had on hand.

    Now. About moving those peg mounting holes! If you look at the back side of that bracket you'll see that it's reinforced using what appears to be a HD washer. IMO, that reinforcement needs to be augmented but you may well have drilled a hole that bypasses the reinforcement entirely. You really don't want that right peg to bend while you're hanging off in a fast, tight, right turn do you? (Correct answer = "No!") . Just make sure your installation is solid, stable and safe.

    Other than that, ride fast and take chances!
    #10
  11. CATPart

    CATPart Adventurer

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    Mymindsock,
    The length of the rod was perfect, but the offset was incorrect. Basically the linkage offset was about 1.5 inches less than it should have been. You can see in this image that I had to initially use a long post on the trans lever to reach the linkage. Also in the image you see a coat hanger that I bent to the proper linkage dimensions. I would have had to bend and thread a new rod.

    As for the washer, yes I added that from the beginning because there is no reinforcement there of any sort. The pegs are actually quite strong now, the thick washer significantly improved the load path. The images with the washers are not the final installation, because I drilled a new hole further back and a bit higher, allowing me to use a full washer back there. You can see that in the last couple photos.

    I had read your thread, but I was just very surprised that you did not have the offset problem I had. Maybe they sent me the wrong linkage in the first place.

    [​IMG]
    #11
  12. C Squared

    C Squared Now with TURBO!

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    FWIW.. I had Raask rearsets on a K75.

    They worked well and I liked them.
    They were all Alum. back plate and all.
    #12
  13. kraut.burner

    kraut.burner "Fun Club" President

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    If it wasn't a bent frame, Mymindsok did you have the same problem?
    #13
  14. BiG DoM

    BiG DoM African Adventurer

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    Thanks guys - good info coming this way. :thumb
    #14
  15. Hawk Medicine

    Hawk Medicine Coyote's Brother

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    Uhmm... No I didnt have any problems like that but it appears in that photo as if the shift rod is misaligned. Is it mounted horizontally? :huh

    Did you check the squareness of the peg to a "known square" point on your frame? Is the lever on the shifter square to the shaft? Try clamping a piece of flat stock on the two frame tubes in your photo and then use a square to check the pegs for squareness. I'd be interested in your findings, either way.

    Actually I did have an issue somewhat like yours.

    When I first tried to hook up the shift arm, it was obvious that the fore and aft sections weren't parallel to one another but rather than pick up the phone, I opened a beer, took some measurements and started bending until everything looked right, laid dead flat and worked freely when mounted. I guess it took fifteen or twenty minutes to get the bending dead nuts on and some more time to suss out the shifter-arm issue and adjust the rod length but it was fun and gave me an evenings worth of feeling good once the job was done.

    After studying the MV website, I approached mounting this stuff from the angle that these things were manufactured primarily for racers and in that venue theres a certain level of expectation that whatever parts you buy, will need to be massaged or reworked before use and that it would be fully expected that the stuff would need to be bent back into shape from time to time. Look at it that way and these parts are near perfect!

    It's kool that the manufacturer was willing to replace your not-so-perfect shift arm but I would have just as likely gone out and bought a piece of SS rod and made a new part in my garage. :lol3

    Since you've had such good luck dealing with those guys, I'm going to contact them and discuss the lousy rear brake performance and see what they have to say. Why not? :thumb



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    #15
  16. CATPart

    CATPart Adventurer

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    Everything was square and the bend planes were parallel to the footpeg. It is an optical illusion if you are seeing something crooked (wide angle lens on my camera tends to distort things a bit). I consirered rebending the linkage but I would have had to bend it so much that it would have become too short. I did buy a length of 1/4 inch rod, and started googling around for new linkage ends that would fit, but that never saw the light of day. I sent the manufacturere a picture wondering if they sent me the wrong linkage and they said "we will bend you a new one if you send us dimensions". I offered to pay half and they said no way, sweet! It may have been a race part, and require a bit of tweaking, but this was 1.5 inches off, and that is not a tweak, that is a bad part.
    #16
  17. maverick

    maverick Lost South-African..

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    Apologies about the thread hijack but what type of clamp is in the front connecting the airpipe to the bing? That looks like the business for quick and easy removal :ear
    #17
  18. bpeckm

    bpeckm Grin!

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    Those are "t-bolt hose clamps"... we used them on marine cooling systems, etc. Not necessarily "fast", but they sure can be strong!

    [​IMG]

    I found these on Fastenal.com, with lots of diamers and clamp widths. Lots of other suppliers out there as well.
    #18
  19. CATPart

    CATPart Adventurer

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    The T bolt I used was Mcmaster Carr part number 5312K12 "TYPE 300 SERIES SS T-BOLT HOSE AND TUBE CLAMP, 2-5/16" TO 2-5/8" CLAMP DIA RANGE, 3/4" BAND WIDTH"

    It was good because it covers the entire joint between the tube and carb. This clamp would not fit in front of the carb though.
    #19
  20. Hawk Medicine

    Hawk Medicine Coyote's Brother

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    Well, I'll take your word for it but looking at your pictures, I'm seeing a rod that is angled outboard of the bike but not short at all. As my thread says, mine ended up a being bit long and I trimmed it slightly.

    At least you got that detail worked out.
    #20