Airhead "Tips and Tricks"

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by elmoreman, Sep 26, 2006.

  1. Jasper ST4

    Jasper ST4 Guest

    What did you split? I wedge a large screwdriver in the bottom for removal or installation. I just take the tension off and twist left and right to coax the tubes out and in.
  2. Jaguartrip

    Jaguartrip starting from the roots

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2009
    Oddometer:
    7
    Location:
    Costa Rica

    The side bags are old straight Nonfango Bags.
    By some strange reason, I have not being able to post my pictures in this forums. Tried it several times, making the pics smaller and havenĀ“t being able at all.
    These bags are very similar to the old original BMW bags.
  3. Jasper ST4

    Jasper ST4 Guest

    I had that problem as well. Then I noticed the img code thingy was off (at the bottom of the page) so I logged off, it cleared my cookies and re-logged on and it's back on.
  4. slipchuck

    slipchuck slipchuck

    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2009
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    3
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    Ontario Canada
    If you have a screw you can't get out.... buy some lapping compound... either put some in the head of the screw (say the cross part of a philips screw) or some at the end of your screw driver...
    for what ever reason it worked on my pulser... the philips screw was almost stripped, wouldn't budge, and I didn't want to hit it with an impact screw driver as the case might crack. tried this trick and it worked like gold

    a big container of lapping compound is around 10 dollars and would last years. hell maybe you can refurbish your valves while you are at it :)

    cheers

    randy
  5. eng42

    eng42 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2007
    Oddometer:
    90
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    Flyover
    Quote:
    <table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" width="100%"> <tbody><tr> <td class="alt2" style="border: 1px inset ;"> Originally Posted by El Hombre

    The other thing to change is pull the negative battery cable out from the hollow vent bolt on the tranny and move it to the coil mount bolt. That is one weak sister of a bolt. Have that puppy break with the engine running and the alternator will go nuts and start frying things.

    </td> </tr> </tbody></table>
    Anyone else slightly offended by the farmerly gearbox vent and feel obligated to improve it? I was figuring on moving the ground cable to some other bolt, but am also trying to figure out a clean way to add a small vent hose to route up under the tank, out of the water, dust and crud. Anybody got a good way?
    Jess
    http://kokopropelli.blogspot.com/
  6. eng42

    eng42 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2007
    Oddometer:
    90
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    Flyover
    My R100 RS that I just got had the external plumbing removed and the fittings capped with some sort of brass cap. The small vacuum hose was still there, but had fallen off the device inside the airbox, causing the idle to be erratic.

    I removed the rest of the stuff--the valves in the airbox and the vacuum hose. Capped the vacuum ports on the carbs with vinyl caps from the parts store, stuck a 1/4 inch plastic (in case it comes adrift and gets sucked into the engine) bolt and nut.

    I wandered around the shop wondering about the big holes in the aluminum airbox, and finally found some port plugs in my hydraulic fitting drawer that were low-profile, allen-head -8 SAE plugs. They have 3/4" fine threads and o-rings, and your friendly neighborhood John Deere or Caterpillar dealer (or O-Reilly's or Napa if you live in an agricultural or construction-oriented area) with have them in stock. I ran a drill bit through the holes, then a 3/4 fine tap, screwed in my plugs, and it looks very nice and clean. :clap

    Even painted the airbox and starter cover while I was playing around, plus the front engine cover.

    I haven't looked at the fittings in the exhaust ports, yet, but now that I know the threads, thanks to Swegen, I can pick up some plugs for that.

    Continuing to make fine-detail improvements is half the fun of dinking around with motorcycles, and it's nice to have one finally that feels like a keeper. I did all sorts of stuff like this to my last two Hondas, but it always felt a little like remodeling a trailer house.:D

    JKD
    http://kokopropelli.blogspot.com/
  7. bpeckm

    bpeckm Grin!

    Joined:
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    Anyone else slightly offended by the farmerly gearbox vent and feel obligated to improve it? I was figuring on moving the ground cable to some other bolt, but am also trying to figure out a clean way to add a small vent hose to route up under the tank, out of the water, dust and crud. Anybody got a good way?
    Jess
    http://kokopropelli.blogspot.com/[/quote]


    I know that the GS crowd routinely removes the cable-driven speedometer, replacing the rubber boot with a purpose-made aluminum fitting that vents the tranny: there is a nipple on the top (a-la brake-bleed screw) to which they can attach a vent tube just as you described above. I will search for a pic of said thingamambob and post it when I find it...

    And yes, grounding to any other bolt makes much sense. Still makes the most sense to ground directly to the tranny/engine mounts, though, as it creates an excellent ground for the heavy current load of the starter. Grounding to the frame would be OK, but me personally I would do both: ground from the battery to the cases and to the frame.

    :D
  8. Jasper ST4

    Jasper ST4 Guest

    I have left my ground there for the main reason that I want to disconnect the battery easily and quickly. I snipped the lug so that it is a spade connection, so I can unhook the juice in a few seconds.

    I keep a 10mm wrench in the right saddlebag for that emergency purpose, should it arise. I've never had trouble with anything leaking in or out of the breather and rode in the rain many times.
  9. bpeckm

    bpeckm Grin!

    Joined:
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    Found the pik:
    [​IMG]

    About 20 Euros from the supplier.
  10. RandyB

    RandyB .

    Joined:
    Jan 11, 2006
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    5,072
  11. Eduardo

    Eduardo Eduardo

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2008
    Oddometer:
    687
    Location:
    Minnesota
    Hola, After reading the post by Swegan about his experience with poor idle, and the tutorial by Snowbum, http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/pulseair.htm, I closed off my system today. I took the easiest solution of using steel ball bearings to close off the intake manifolds, left and right, coming out of the air cleaner housing bottom. I was hesitant of trying to remove the intake manifold from the cylinder heads, for fear of frozen threads on the stud nuts and possibly stripping them, and this method retained the stock look.

    It was a 3 minute job and made an immediate difference in the way my R80RT idled, and may have given me a little extra power and zip, I'm still test riding to determine that.

    Thanks again to those that posted in, and to Snowbum for his complete and accurate instructions. I did however think that the suggested 5/16" ball was a little small and looked through my salvaged ball bearings till I found two that worked well. Saludos, Eduardo :D
  12. bpeckm

    bpeckm Grin!

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    Eduardo: thanks for your "tip".... made me realize that I 'need to get out of the house more' when I read the sig-link on your trip to Guate ....:thumb (I tend to hang in old sckool.....)

    What a great thread, and good on ya for taking the time and actually real-izing your desire to spend time travelling, getting to know other people and cultures. My folks lived in Guate for many years and I visited many times, and remember Antigua as being a very special place. It has now gotten far more commercial in the language instructions, etc, but still, by US standards, quite a dream place.

    Having never been to Mexico, your thread gives me lots of reasons to want to go....Sounds like there are some gem-towns.... gotta dream-and-do....:thumb

    So......

    Muchas Gracias, Eduardo. Vaya con Dios en todas tus aventuras!


    :D
  13. CaribouCases

    CaribouCases Boulder CO

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Adventure Rider & Aftermarket Systems Manufacturer
    Testors Yellow 1114 enamel, very close match....

    [​IMG]
  14. Eduardo

    Eduardo Eduardo

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2008
    Oddometer:
    687
    Location:
    Minnesota
    Hola, I'm finding a need to remove the exhaust on my "86 R80RT to gain better access to the transmission area for a visual inspection of some oil and tranny leaks....but I don't want to disturb my probably frozen finned exhaust nuts. Is is possible to remove the exhaust by separating the pipes just in front of the collection/crossover box, and remove the exhaust from there aft?, and how hard is it to get those pipes apart, and back together again?

    I've had nagging leaks of what I thought was engine oil and replaced a failed oil pressure switch, hoping that would dry it up, but alas, I finally got a good view of the neutral switch and that was leaking too, and I replaced it. Now, I would like to clear area of visual obstructions and inspect the whole area without tons of part removal. Any ideas? Saludos, Eduardo
  15. bmwblake

    bmwblake upside down parker

    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2004
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    3,274
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    nashville, tn
    i think it's easier to deal with the exhaust as 1 big piece. go ahead and deal with your probably frozen exhaust nuts. why put off the inevitable?


  16. Eduardo

    Eduardo Eduardo

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    Minnesota
    Hola bmwblake, You are probably right, however, it's an expensive deal with the wrench, and new exhaust nuts, and I was hoping avoid that for the time being. I may be able to anyway, as I think, pray, I've found my last leaker, it turned out to be the clutch pushrod rubber boot. I'll know soon as I get a new one in. Thanks!
  17. Eduardo

    Eduardo Eduardo

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    Minnesota
  18. kv

    kv [none]

    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2002
    Oddometer:
    5,060
    Location:
    Canton, GA
    Does anyone have some tips for buttoning the front cowling back up on a PD? :dunno I pulled mine off last night to get to the engine guards as I was thinking about having them powdercoated black instead of 'teal' and I was hoping to figure out why my headlight never seems very secure.

    Just getting to the engine guards has been frustrating and I think I'm just going to try to button it all back up. At this point I wish I was brave enough to cut into the harness, mount up an HID-equiped TT shell and run a Trail Tech Vapor. :nod

    [​IMG]
  19. bgoodsoil

    bgoodsoil Dare to be Stupid

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2008
    Oddometer:
    4,670
    Location:
    Washington, DC, USA
    I've got the vapor and I'm not too happy with it. The ODO is buried 3 menus down, the tach isn't very stable, the ambient temp guage doesn't work, etc. I'm sure it's fine on a dirtbike but it's not well suited for a road bike. Acewell has some nice stuff
  20. kv

    kv [none]

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    Oddometer:
    5,060
    Location:
    Canton, GA
    Thanks for the heads up. :thumb