Airhead "Tips and Tricks"

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by elmoreman, Sep 26, 2006.

  1. oz_airhead

    oz_airhead Been here awhile

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    G'day Paul.

    Motobins in the UK.

    http://www.motobins.co.uk/

    They sell either seals AND piston or just the seals only. In either the 38mm or 40mm size.

    Also motoworks in the UK as well.

    You could also try Ted Porter in California

    www.beemershop.com

    HTH

    OZ
  2. DoktorT

    DoktorT BigBrowedNeandereer

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    +1 for Ted Porter. Super source for Airhead knowledge and parts. Above and beyond customer service. If he went public, I might buy stock.
  3. pthomas

    pthomas Been here awhile

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    Thanks. Amazing to see that the seals are cheaper when I import them from the UK, even after shipping, that buying them in the US. We're truly a global in this day and age.
  4. wirewrkr

    wirewrkr the thread-killer

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    There was someone on the net selling SS caliper pistons 0n Ebay and one of our inmates tried using a set.
    If I remember correctly, the outcome was not good.
  5. oz_airhead

    oz_airhead Been here awhile

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    Yep I saw that. They were 40mm if I recall from ebay,

    You'd reckon someone would turn up a few and sell them in stainless.

    These bikes are getting on with ATE swinging calipers - was '79 the last of them? And you'd have to agree that the majority have some sort of corrosion due the age of the dust seals that finally give up the ghost.

    That means either cleaning them up as a bandaid, or replacing with OEM.

    Cheers & thanks.

    OZ
  6. wirewrkr

    wirewrkr the thread-killer

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    1980 were the last models (in the US ) to have these goofy things.
  7. DoktorT

    DoktorT BigBrowedNeandereer

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    I worked on Euros for many years, 90's and back. I've seen hundreds certainly of all the common BMW/Mercedes/vwporshceaudi/volvo models with Ate calipers. I never did measure the seals/pucks. Just put in the OEM kit. Amongs those are certainly common examples of 38 and 40mm seals and pucks.

    Seems if you could identify which yrs/model used those sizes, sourcing those might just work ding dang dandy for the early Airheads, including boots.

    If it's a dual puck kit, it would do both Airhead calipers for the S/RS/RT.

    None of the parts lists I have researched on this give the size, just the application.
  8. Claytonroy

    Claytonroy Been here awhile

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    Greetings folks...I tried a search of this topic but didn't come up with the info I need, so...

    What's the best way to remove the center stud from a cylinder head?

    I'm switching out a bad left head (stuck intake valve) with a used head. The used one didn't come with the central threaded stud that secures the valve cover.

    I already put PB blaster penetrating oil on it...have not tried anything else. Am I going to need heat, etc. what's the best way to get a solid grip on the 'lil bugger so I can back it out?

    If there's anything else I should watch out for when reinstalling the head...feel free to elaborate

    Thanks in advance for your input!

    :ear
  9. Zebedee

    Zebedee Been here awhile

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    It might need to be warmed up a bit if the stud is in with some flavour of Loctite, but asking the obvious first, have you tried using two nuts in the thread to form a lock nut.

    You know the trick, tighten one nut against the other and then just wind the stud out using the lower nut ...

    :beer

    John
  10. mark1305

    mark1305 Old Enough To Know Better

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    Heat certainly won't hurt - I'd go to just spit-sizzle hot but not much more. (I can't spit accurately so I flick water drops from my finger or small drops from a baby nose syringe).

    I've had marginally better success on some stubborn Ducati studs using one of the common cam type stud pullers instead of the doubled nuts which work well much of the time. Can't remember where I got the stud puller, probably an auto parts store. They are round gizmos about 2" in diameter with an offset hole and a smaller internal cam. A 3/8 ratchet handle locks the cam onto the stud as you apply force to make it self-tightening. But like I said, mine is only marginally better than the two nuts.
  11. camgregus

    camgregus riding gently now

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    jeez the frequently asked question is how to put it back in....
  12. Claytonroy

    Claytonroy Been here awhile

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    Thanks Zebedee & mark1305...

    It had been red Loc tite'd in the bad head, so I put it in toaster oven at 300F, then used the 2 bolt trick. The stud came out no problem.

    Now I'm waiting for the Loc Tite to set up in the new head, so I can reinstall & proceed towards a running bike..

    I appreciate your input!
  13. mark1305

    mark1305 Old Enough To Know Better

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    Glad you got it. Red Loctite can be a real PITA. I've read somewhere that 500F is needed to break it loose. Good to know that a little less can get the job done.
  14. Claytonroy

    Claytonroy Been here awhile

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    I forgot to mention I'd shot it with PB Blaster several times in the last 48 hours. I've had really good luck with the PB.

    The toaster oven is a handy item to have in the garage. While I was heating up the bad head to remove the stud, I doused the replacement (used) head w/ gasket remover + scraped off the old, stubborn valve cover gasket. I rinsed it off with the garden hose and put it back in the oven for 30 mins to dry it completely.

    One oversight if I had to do it over. I would've had some cheddar cheese and a a loaf of a bread. I wasted time leaving the garage to feed myself lunch! Guess my next garage upgrade will be a mini-fridge..

    :rofl
  15. Zebedee

    Zebedee Been here awhile

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    Glad you get it sorted, but a mini fridge wouldn't cut it in my garage ... :freaky

    :beer

    John
  16. rkjjeep

    rkjjeep Been here awhile

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    I was trying to find easy 12v power source on my 95 PD - didn't want to cut, splice, use scotch lock, etc. If your bike has the pigtail tucked up by the coil for clock you'll find a ground, an unswitched 12v and a switched 12v. I chose the switched 12v as i am running xm radio. I went to ground at the ignition module top bolt with a simple ring terminal.

    The easy way to hook up to the connector if you don't have the connector half from a clock is to strip about 1/4 " insulation off your hot wire from your accessory, and then "tin" it with solder (so now you have a wire coated with solder). file it carefully so it's the perfect diameter to plug into the female - only took about a minute. Very secure and cover with tape. All easy to remove and no damage to original bits.

    I will post pics of my XM radio install on a separate thread tonight.
  17. Zodiac

    Zodiac loosely portrayed

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    I'm looking to shed the exhaust collector box on my 88 RS mono shock. The stock tail pipes and exhaust headers are fine and want to keep them. I haven't found any aftermarket full systems that aren't 2 into 1 (which I don't want).

    So wondering if it's possible to get just 2 pipes, (even cheap flex to just try it out before going fabrication route) and go straight to the cans. This would mean there is no crossover after the one at the headers anymore. Anyone ever do this?

    [​IMG]

    The collector can is in a state of rusting but the rest of the system is fine.

    TIA

    PS - Would a straight system from a twin shock (older RS) work? I know mine's 38mm exhaust port which is same as older RS...... (?)
  18. Beemerboff

    Beemerboff Long timer

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    The origonal reason for the crossovers, or pre mufflers, was to enable more restrictive, read quieter, silencers to me fitted without loosing power, but over the years they have grown to be credited with supernatural powers, so expect the " experts " to chime in and tell you that you will create all sorts of problems with your engine.

    Main problem will be that it will be a little noisier, and if you put on a dyno it may even be possible to measure a small loss in power, but probably only over 6000 RPM. But you still have the front pipe which should help.

    Whether you would notice the difference on the road is another question - my GS runs better without the rear box, but I have a freer flowing Staintune can , I have heard that they struggle with stock , and no front balance pipe.
  19. outfit

    outfit Been here awhile

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    [​IMG]
    Part No.88593
    "H" PIECE REPLACES COLLECTOR BOX. STAINLESS. ALL R80 / R100 MODELS 1985 ONWARDS. ( NOT PARALEVER MODELS )

    £108.

    Motorworks or motobins
  20. outfit

    outfit Been here awhile

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    [​IMG]
    Part No.88593
    "H" PIECE REPLACES COLLECTOR BOX. STAINLESS. ALL R80 / R100 MODELS 1985 ONWARDS. ( NOT PARALEVER MODELS )

    £108.

    Motorworks or motobins