Airhead "Tips and Tricks"

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by elmoreman, Sep 26, 2006.

  1. goatroper

    goatroper Been here awhile

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    Apr 3, 2007
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    NE Ohio
    pretty much the same settings as a Kawasaki Drifter, from what I have heard. No experience with either.
  2. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

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  3. JohnLocke

    JohnLocke Been here awhile

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    May 4, 2011
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  4. baldwithglasses

    baldwithglasses Godspeed, Robert

    Joined:
    Jul 7, 2007
    Oddometer:
    800
    Location:
    Hell naw, it's Kennesaw!
    73s to you, W8EJO.

    WallyWorld also has a version that works just fine; just make sure you use the vented version.
  5. mark1305

    mark1305 Old Enough To Know Better

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2005
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    6,300
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    Merritt Island, FL
    I just noticed the call sign after BWG's 73s...

    I Googled up my late stepfather's call sign, W4YRE, and up popped his name on HamCall.net

    Cool!

    Oh yeah, I've been using the Stant locking cap on my ST for over a year and keeping the good BMW cap for special occasions. IIRC, on the locking version I had to drill through the check valve innards with like a 1/16" bit from the bottom side upward to provide good venting.
  6. baldwithglasses

    baldwithglasses Godspeed, Robert

    Joined:
    Jul 7, 2007
    Oddometer:
    800
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    Hell naw, it's Kennesaw!
    I've got the Stant non-locking venting kind, and it works dandy. Because of the broad-band funkulation field I have around the bike, no one really messes with it.
  7. Mallard

    Mallard insert joke here

    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2010
    Oddometer:
    82
    Location:
    Brisbane, Australia
    Your bike currently has a functioning clutch lever (the thing on the handlebars) and functioning clutch release mechanism (the arm on the back of the gearbox + a bunch of internals). However, pulling on the clutch lever has no effect - you're constantly in gear (the rear wheel will still not turn). Put away the holy water and stop praying, it's not demonic possession - it may be that you just have a stuck clutch.

    I've discovered plenty in the last while about the clutch and its correct adjustment. Didn't see it in 'tips and tricks' so here's how I solved my 'stuck clutch'. This was necessary after just three weeks of not riding the R90/6.

    Step 1)
    Ensure you have the correct adjustment. This is a worthwhile read and probably worth looking at prior to Step 2.
    Clutch adjustment (Pre-1981) & How to ride with no clutch cable
    http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/control/index.htm

    Step 2)
    Fixing a stuck clutch
    http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/clutch/index.htm

    1. Get into neutral (you may need to manually rotate the rear wheel back and forward, while clicking away at the foot gear selector).
    2. Start engine. Let her warm up.
    3. Don all safety gear (in case this doesn't go to plan).
    3. Grab the clutch. Don't let it out again.
    4. With engine running, and bike in neutral, and while holding the clutch lever, get the bike moving (you pushing, friend pushing, rolling downhill - like you were bump starting).
    5. The engine is running, so when you're moving at a reasonable speed (same speed as you'd ride in 1st) 'stomp down' it into 1st. This might not be healthy, but your bike will do as it is told.
    6. Now you're in 1st gear and you're still holding the clutch, but the bike is in gear and you're moving. 1st might not be enough to solve a stuck clutch, but 2nd should be.
    7. A little bit more throttle and 'stomp up' into 2nd.
    8. With any luck you're now riding a bike that has broken it's clutch free, and because you're still holding the clutch, you're starting to slow down.
    9. Time to let the clutch out and ride around for awhile. The solution to stuck clutches is regular use. Be good and ride regularly.

    N.B. Between 4 and 7 you may look like you've had your license for less than a week. Probably a good idea to put on a fake mustache and dark sunglasses before you get started.
    N.B. All work done occurred while under the influence of home brew ginger beer. I'm not say that's why it was so easy, but it might have helped.
  8. DoktorT

    DoktorT BigBrowedNeandereer

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    Frankly, soaking the rider in Liebframilch or Jaegermeister works beste vor BMW fixin'.
  9. Mallard

    Mallard insert joke here

    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2010
    Oddometer:
    82
    Location:
    Brisbane, Australia
    Thanks DoktorT,

    The Haynes Manual makes no mention of that. I tell you, it's hardly worth owning. Nothing in there at all about recommended drinks or music. Just loads of useless rubbish about torque settings and oil volumes.
  10. batoutoflahonda

    batoutoflahonda Long timer

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    Aug 8, 2007
    Oddometer:
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    Easton Wa
    etc. So waiting on parts, I took the pistons off and soaked them in 50% simple green and pine sol. Over night worked well, but I let them soak for a week, and literally wiped all the carbon off with a paper towel. Even that really hard stuff on the sides above the rings.

    Sorry no pictures, but I didn't think it was really going to work.
  11. Redbean

    Redbean Inanely Adventurous

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    Laissez les bons temp rouler
    Trying to finish top end job on my '83 R100RT.

    Bought a pair of used heads, had them checked out, new gaskets, rings etc, everything bolted up and ready for exhaust mount.

    Noticed that the new to me heads have those air pollution inserts in the exhaust ports, ordered the plugs to replace the inserts and soaked the inserts in Kroil.

    Can't get them out without using enough torque that I know it's going to strip the threads when they come out.

    Any suggestions on a suitable cap to screw on to the inserts to seal them rather than trying to muscle them out without stripping the threads?
  12. coastranger

    coastranger Been here awhile

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    coast range oregon
  13. coastranger

    coastranger Been here awhile

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    coast range oregon

    did you do a search, I just read this the a week ago at either this forum or BMWOA of someone with same issue and he/she lists what cap they found worked
  14. Wirespokes

    Wirespokes Beemerholics Anonymous

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    Jackson's Bottom Oregon
    Are you in europe? Can't tell where you're from...

    Here in the states I've gotten brass plumbing caps that work. The size is close and so are the threads, though they're not metric - close enough they have a bit of an interference fit and don't fall off (the brass reforms fairly easily). I seem to recall them being 5/8". Any good hardware store has them.

  15. Redbean

    Redbean Inanely Adventurous

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    Have been looking for some time now the cap should be 16mm X 1.5 thread pitch in brass, can't find them.
  16. Redbean

    Redbean Inanely Adventurous

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    I am in Louisiana.

    Thanks, I'll give them a try if I can find them
  17. WU7X

    WU7X The Old Fart

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    Aug 21, 2007
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    I ordered Wirewrkr's new set for taking care of this problem. Will let you know how things work out with them. Read the whole thread for lots of good ideas. I couldn't get those pesky adapter inserts out initially either. I sprayed them with "Blaster" a couple of times. They went from being immovable to almost finger tight after 24 hours. Amazing stuff.

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=750553




  18. Redbean

    Redbean Inanely Adventurous

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    Thanks!

    I saved the link and off to the srore for some PB Blaster.
  19. supershaft

    supershaft because I can

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    Sep 9, 2010
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    They are oilhead sump plugs available at dealers. Use the same aluminum crush ring, some anti-seize, and the same torque as for the sump. It works every time.
  20. Kai Ju

    Kai Ju Long timer

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    Jul 29, 2009
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