Airhead "Tips and Tricks"

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by elmoreman, Sep 26, 2006.

  1. helion42

    helion42 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2011
    Oddometer:
    227
    Location:
    Salt Lake City, Zion Curtain, UT
    @ patanga T/C tool

    THAT is a good one. will be attempting it soon most likely.
  2. patanga

    patanga BMWAirheadsDownunder

    Joined:
    May 10, 2009
    Oddometer:
    161
    Location:
    Australia
    Hi helion42; If you take a look at the thread link I posted above you will also see a tension rail lock out tool that I made to make the job of keeping the rail out of the way much easier. Cheers
    ____________________
    "The only reason people get lost in thought is because it's unfamiliar territory" (Joe Garcia)

    Check us out on facebook at "BMW Airheads Downunder", (The Australia and New Zealand Airhead Community). "B.A.D" :wink:
    http://www.facebook.com/groups/anzairheads/
  3. Bill Harris

    Bill Harris Confirmed Curmudgeon

    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2008
    Oddometer:
    9,738
    Location:
    backwoods Alabama
  4. sdduke

    sdduke David in Atlanta

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2011
    Oddometer:
    232
    Location:
    Norcross GA
    My left hand shock bushing (“Silentblock” Part Number 335 31 230 258) was worn out (the rubber was shot), so I started shopping for bushings. My internet search came up with these babies being about 25 dollars each! My frugal nature had a real problem with that, so I searched some more. On a Sportster forum, a kindred spirit thought H-D bushings from the Motor Company were pricey as well. He used a washing machine hose to rebush his shocks.

    Stealing from that, I took my shock down to the Advance Auto store and starting shopping for a heater hose that would work, since washing machine hose OD is too small. 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font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;} </style> <![endif]--> And it's $1.57 a foot.

    Here's how to do it:

    Remove what is left of your old rubber in the bushing, cut off about two inches of heater hose, press in the heater hose, press in the bushing eye, trim excess hose off with a razor blade, and you are good to go.

    With the extra ten inches or so of hose you have left, you can rebuild another 8 bushings.

    Here are some visuals for those like me who like pictures:

    Shock with hose pressed in (I used my bench vise to squash it in with some WD40):

    [​IMG]

    Push the eye in as far as you can. Then use your bench vise with a socket to drive it home (not shown):

    [​IMG]

    Trim rubber flush with the bushing eye. I made some radial cuts in the hose, then cut off flush with the eye:

    [​IMG]

    Just like Hans did back at the Boge factory:

    [​IMG]

    Back on the bike:
    [​IMG]


    Now my bike doesn't occasionally clonk in the rear anymore.

    This was a lot easier than dicking around with a new bushing, as I did not have to press out the outer metal band of the old bushing.

    Hope this helps!
  5. brittrunyon

    brittrunyon R 100 GS F 650 GS

    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2010
    Oddometer:
    631
    Location:
    The High Desert of New Mexico
    Thanks.....sdduke................
  6. daveoneshot

    daveoneshot Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2010
    Oddometer:
    465
    Location:
    Vermont
    Just got done removing the alloy spacer that hides the neutral switch on my /7, the one the long engine bolt passes through. I used my Cat's Paw nail puller......it's got a perfect hook that you can wiggle over the spacer, then grab the other end with some old Vice Grips and tap away. Took me a while as it was my first time removing this thing, but it
    finally came out. Let's call it a Poor Man's Slide Hammer.
  7. patanga

    patanga BMWAirheadsDownunder

    Joined:
    May 10, 2009
    Oddometer:
    161
    Location:
    Australia
    Any chance of a photo of what you did/used 'daveoneshot' ?.. Thanks:)

    ____________________
    "The only reason people get lost in thought is because it's unfamiliar territory" (Joe Garcia)

    Check us out on facebook at "BMW Airheads Downunder", (The Australia and New Zealand Airhead Community). "B.A.D" :wink:
    http://www.facebook.com/groups/anzairheads/
  8. patanga

    patanga BMWAirheadsDownunder

    Joined:
    May 10, 2009
    Oddometer:
    161
    Location:
    Australia
    Excellent Bill Harris.. Thanks.

    ____________________
    "The only reason people get lost in thought is because it's unfamiliar territory" (Joe Garcia)

    Check us out on facebook at "BMW Airheads Downunder", (The Australia and New Zealand Airhead Community). "B.A.D" :wink:
    http://www.facebook.com/groups/anzairheads/
  9. Tobz

    Tobz Ne'er-du-well

    Joined:
    May 12, 2009
    Oddometer:
    470
    Location:
    WI
    The correct parts for both of these mods are inexpensive, but these parts are easy to find just about anywhere. A pop rivet with the rivet removed is a good fit for a Bing float pin. The length just needs to be trimmed some. Napa has fuel filler hose that is a good fit for 32mm head to carb joints and it should hold up well.

    [​IMG]
  10. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2011
    Oddometer:
    12,315
    Location:
    Silver Spring, Md
    Now that is a cool tip. Imagine, Long Intake Runners !
  11. Boxer Metal

    Boxer Metal Mad Scientist

    Joined:
    Nov 3, 2003
    Oddometer:
    3,609
    Location:
    Chico, California
    If you put a slight bevel on both ends of the alloy tube it goes back in much easier.
  12. moosehead

    moosehead Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2003
    Oddometer:
    276
    Location:
    south of the checkerboard....Bruce Penninsula
    And throw it in the freezer for an hour or 2 and it'll nicely pop back in...along with those bevelled edges.:D
  13. Other Bob

    Other Bob Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2005
    Oddometer:
    450
    Location:
    Detroit 'burbs
    My old throttle and enricher cables are kinked right above the metal end fitting on the sleve, above the adjustment fitting that screws into the top of the Bing. I ordered new cables from BMW, but they will just do the same thing eventually without some additional "flexible" support.

    Go to your hardware store and look through their selection of springs. I used 7/16-inch x 3-inch compression springs from Midwest Fastener Corp. in Kalamazoo, Mich. (http://www.fastenerconnection.com/)* - they just happen to supply my local hardware store. Part #18676 (spring #165 on the board) is what I used, but others would have worked too.

    The picture pretty much tells the story. This size spring will slip over the grip end of the new cable, slide down past the kink point (the joint between the cable sleeve and the metal end fitting) to the adjustment fitting, where it will rest on top of the jamb nut. If you aren't replacing cables and don't want to remove your existing ones from the grip housing just to do this simple mod, simply open the crimped end of the spring a bit (like a key-ring) to get it started on the cable, then wind the spring on over the cable -

    [​IMG]

    Finished. The springs cross the kink point and are supported at the bottom by the adjustment fitting screwed into the Bing cover. This will help give some lateral support to the cable sleeve and spread the load over a broader area so it doesn't kink right where the cable sleeve exits the metal end fitting -

    [​IMG]

    Comparatively cheap('ish) protection at $0.90 each.

    Good luck,

    Bob

    * Based on Midwest Fastener's web site I may have to take a ride to Kalamazoo to see this place in person! I'm a hardware store junkie, expecially the 'hardware' isle itself! In the sixth picture down, on the back wall, you can see the kind of spring display that my local store had.
  14. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2011
    Oddometer:
    12,315
    Location:
    Silver Spring, Md
    That's a nice trick MotoKaw. My throttle cables are also kinked. I'm gonna try that one. Thanks
  15. Sic Semper Tyrannis

    Sic Semper Tyrannis Plays with Banjos, Boats and Bikes...

    Joined:
    Aug 9, 2009
    Oddometer:
    841
    Location:
    RVa
    I split a piece of fuel line about 3 inches long. Slipped over the throttle cables and zip tied with black wire ties.

    Works great.
  16. pthomas

    pthomas Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2011
    Oddometer:
    179
    Location:
    St. Petersburg, FL
    Any worry that the cable will be damaged from vibration?
  17. Other Bob

    Other Bob Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2005
    Oddometer:
    450
    Location:
    Detroit 'burbs
    I don't think that vibration will cause the spring to wear into the cable sleeve. This particular spring was of the "Goldilocks" variety - not too stiff, not too flexible, just right.

    I'll keep a close eye on it though and report back if it causes more probles than it cures.

    That being said, I like SST's split fuel line idea too! If this spring doesn't work as intended that's what I'll do next. Thanks for sharing it SST.
  18. Wirespokes

    Wirespokes Beemerholics Anonymous

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2002
    Oddometer:
    8,697
    Location:
    Jackson's Bottom Oregon
    I'd think a closer fitting spring would be better - one that just fits the cable.
  19. Other Bob

    Other Bob Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2005
    Oddometer:
    450
    Location:
    Detroit 'burbs
    You might be right WireSpokes. I took my cable to the hardware store and tried many different sizes. I think that several would have worked well enough, but I went with the 7/16-inch diameter because it had a nice close fit to the knurled screw head and metal end fitting on the cable sleeve (a solid/fixed support point) and then spread a decent amount of lateral support to the sleeve above that end fitting (which is where the kink happens).

    An extra thick heat-shrink wrap tube (or a few layers) crossing the usual kink point would probably work too. But SST's fuel line idea and this spring can be moved to make cable adjustments - I think shrink tube would have to be removed, replaced, cables adjusted, then shrunk again to get the same job done.

    Bob
  20. Beemerboff

    Beemerboff Long timer

    Joined:
    May 23, 2005
    Oddometer:
    2,655
    Location:
    Adelaide, South Australia
    The ferrule on the end of the cable unscrews, so it is possible to unscrew it, unwind and cut off the kinked bit, and screw the ferrule back on, but only if you still have a decent bit adjustment in the cable.

    Also good to know if you are trying to fit 32 mm cables to 40 mm carbs, some 32'cables have been known to end up in the wrong parts bag- DAHIK.