Airhead "Tips and Tricks"

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by elmoreman, Sep 26, 2006.

  1. Zodiac

    Zodiac loosely portrayed

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    I need to do this soon, replace my neutral switch. I took a glance at Snobum's comments on this but didn't read the whole thing.

    So to do this; once you pull out the engine support rod, and get the alloy spacer out, does the engine need to be lowered or can you just put a jack underneath and support the engine when you replace the switch?

    I guess I'm wondering why it would need to be lowered if you can reach the switch port.
  2. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

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    I think I used some kind of jack the last time I did this. Use a small piece of wood in between the jack and Aluminum.

    Sometimes reading Mr. Bum is something you have to work up to. Probably too early in the day.
  3. Wirespokes

    Wirespokes Beemerholics Anonymous

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    The reason for removing the spacer is clearance - the switch needs more room and the spacer interferes. The rear of the engine needs to be supported, though it'll be close to balanced on the front one. A jack makes it easier to keep the engine bolt from binding when withdrawing and replacing.
  4. supershaft

    supershaft because I can

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    Kinking throttle and choke cables? I think the real solution is getting cables that are not too long. When they are the right length, there are no forces there to make them kink so they don't. Granted, figuring out what length cable you really need it a PITA but . . . first things first IMO.
  5. Zodiac

    Zodiac loosely portrayed

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    So essentially the engine doesn't need to move whatsoever in the frame, only the alloy spacer. You don't need to lower the engine just loosen the front support rod and remove the rear, spacer comes out and swap the switch as per Snobum....
  6. Wirespokes

    Wirespokes Beemerholics Anonymous

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    Right! The engine doesn't need to move at all. No reason to loosen the front engine mount. It's a clearance issue from the bottom of the transmission to the top of the engine block shelf. The spacer is in the way and must be removed - I've tried it with the spacer in and if the switch was one or two threads shorter, it could be left in place.
  7. mark1305

    mark1305 Old Enough To Know Better

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    I think loosening the front mount really only serves to lessen any clamping force the frame rails may put on the rear spacer from slight variations in rail parallelism.

    The only time I fooled with my rear spacer I had to loosen the front anyway becasue I was pulling the transmission and had to tilt the engine up to avoid pulling the swingarm/putting it back. I needed to keep the bike a roller for moving multiple things around the small garage. So it was a moot point regarding the rear spacer removal, but it may have helped. Maybe a little.
  8. Zodiac

    Zodiac loosely portrayed

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    thanks guys
  9. skipn

    skipn Been here awhile

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    The rear shocks on my '77 R75/7 have been sitting around (as in not being ridden) most of the time for the last 12 years. They have absolutely no give in them at all. No up, no down.... locked up like a thong in Rosie O'Donnel's ass.

    Any tips/tricks on how to make them functional again? Or should I just looks for some used ones? I am too chea..... frugal to buy new ones.
  10. brocktoon

    brocktoon Been here awhile

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    Not sure what kind of shocks you have, but if they're Konis they're rebuildable. You just buy yourself a kit. Crack them open with pin spanners, replace the rubber bits and oil, and put them back together.
  11. skipn

    skipn Been here awhile

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    They are not Konis.

    Well, my policy is: If appears I can't fix it, then FUBAR it.

    I WD-40'd the piston rods and got my wife to get on the bike with me, and play Buckaroo. After some serious bouncing (seat held up good), I noticed the bike sat lower.

    In a minute or so with the bike on the C/S, I heard what sounded like wheel spokes pinging (oh crap, I tore up the wheels!) only to see the shocks popping back to the 13 1/2 " they had been all this time. Did it 3 times, with a little bit more free movement each time.

    I don't know how much they compressed, but at least I have some movement now. Maybe I just need to ride the snot out of it to get things loosened up a bit?
  12. Flying-D

    Flying-D Just Passing Through

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    Sounds like a plan. I have some originals with 22,000 on them that I can hook you up with for cheap if you need them. There can't be many of our 1977 R75/7's around. Here's mine...

    [​IMG]
  13. brittrunyon

    brittrunyon R 100 GS F 650 GS

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    :lol3
  14. skipn

    skipn Been here awhile

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    This is the way I'd like to get the bike back to looking. I currently have a 2 into 1 exhaust, and want to go back to the stock dual. I found a header, so I will be looking for some used mufflers. Don't want new ones because they would shine like a diamond in a goat's ass. :lol3 Maybe I'll find a good trade and save a few dollars.
  15. R-dubb

    R-dubb Dubbious Adventurer

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    The output flange on the airhead transmission is held from slipping by good old fashion torque. No splines, no key, free spinning shaft. The nut takes 121NM. That is a ton. Not for the faint of heart. Unless...

    Takes a Korn Tool, a couple of big ass wrenches and a strong table (you could also use a short piece of 2x12). Photo self explanatory. Clymer says it's a two man job. Good way to end up with a gearbox on the floor if you ask me. This method is much more secure and only one person is required.

    [​IMG]
  16. brocktoon

    brocktoon Been here awhile

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    I owe you a beer next time you're in the north bay. I'll owe you two if you tell me how you got the housing so clean.
  17. R-dubb

    R-dubb Dubbious Adventurer

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    Water based degreaser, scrub, rinse, phosphoric acid (mag wheel cleaner) left to soak in for 2 minutes only on wet surface, scrub while rinsing to remove all residue immediately. I use the acid a small area at a time becuase its very hard to keep a consistent result. Some splotchiness is unavoidable on rough castings. Finally after drying for a day, I use a blast of contact solvent to get as much etching residue out of the pores as possible. It's a process, but takes little time.
  18. Wirespokes

    Wirespokes Beemerholics Anonymous

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    I've got a three foot cheater for the holder as well as the breaker bar used to loosen the nut. It's a job best done on the floor, but is a one person affair that way.

    Tightening is another matter, but still best done on the floor. With the long cheater on the holder, it ain't goin nowhere!
  19. wirewrkr

    wirewrkr the thread-killer

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    You don't have a piece of pipe layin' around?
    I use an old pitted fork tube right on the square bar of the tube, as was desined by ED to do.
  20. BrianCa

    BrianCa airheads and stuff.

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    The photo is self explanatory you say. ha.