Airhead "Tips and Tricks"

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by elmoreman, Sep 26, 2006.

  1. photorider

    photorider Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2008
    Oddometer:
    301
    Location:
    Southern Utah and Guatemala
    I looked for a while for a set of bar risers that would look good on an old Airhead with no luck. Then I remembered that a while back I got a used triple top plate that came with a set of crusty bar clamps and I had an idea...

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    Pretty happy with the result and my back is thankful on long trips.

    As you can see form the pics, I have no fancy tools (not even a vise!) this was done on the kitchen table of my apt. with a hacksaw and some sandpaper. Old cables worked just fine.
  2. brocktoon

    brocktoon Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2012
    Oddometer:
    261
    Location:
    NorCal
    Correct:

    Part #92000A167: 18-8 Stainless Steel Metric Pan Head Phillips Machine Screw, M3.5 Size, 25MM Length, .6MM Pitch, Packs of 50

    Everyone's a CPA.

    I've just filed for LLC status and have some retail spaces throughout Northern California. Brocktoon's Stainless Steel Airhead Turn Signal Screw Emporium will be opening shortly. Franchise opportunities available.
  3. Wirespokes

    Wirespokes Beemerholics Anonymous

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2002
    Oddometer:
    8,290
    Location:
    Jackson's Bottom Oregon
    :rofl

    Disston - I don't follow you - where did you come up with the $1.05/screw? Maybe I'm not much of an accountant and it shows, but the purchase price was something like $.17 ea. Or they're worth $1.00 each retail. So where'd the $.05 come from?

    Photorider - simple solution, for sure. Seems like a bit of flat aluminum would work well also, then file to shape. I would be a little concerned about the forces on the bolts in quick maneuvers, since the aluminum isn't doing much for side to side strength.
  4. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2011
    Oddometer:
    10,407
    Location:
    Silver Spring, Md
    Brocktoon paid $8.4x for screws. He used 8 of them. These screws cost him $1.05 each. The rest are stock. He doesn't pay $0.17 per screw until all 50 are sold.

    I'm not a CPA. Such stuff drives me nutso. I realize that this is only one way to look at it. Get the Government involved and you won't make any sense of it.
  5. StmbtDave

    StmbtDave AKA Invisible Dave

    Joined:
    Aug 1, 2005
    Oddometer:
    3,089
    Location:
    Loveland, CO summer - Green Valley, AZ winter
    Used Mark's puller and it made for a simple half day job to change the timing chain. I'm loving how easy these bikes are to work on :clap.

    Dave
  6. bpeckm

    bpeckm Grin!

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2008
    Oddometer:
    6,098
    Location:
    Road Island
    Plaka has it right... then you write another contract, ad infinitum ut nauseum! It is a time-proven way for the great American industrial complex to make money off of all of us, over and over....
  7. Sic Semper Tyrannis

    Sic Semper Tyrannis Plays with Banjos, Boats and Bikes...

    Joined:
    Aug 9, 2009
    Oddometer:
    645
    Location:
    RVa

    Wow that is great.

    Love to see what you'd pull off with a mill!

    I have one and it is sweet for projects like this.
  8. Plaka

    Plaka Brevis illi vita est

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2010
    Oddometer:
    4,615
    That's very nice hand work!. I have done exactly the same thing, using as much of the lower clamp as possible. About 1" rise. problem is, I used studs rather than bolts. I just don't like threading in and out of aluminum any more than I have too. But I couldn't go up to an M8, not enough metal. To get an M6 long enough I had to go to fully threaded. I don't trust long all-thread anythings unless the alignment is exact. Any small side loads or twists and they will crack eventually. Pure tension/compression only. I'm running them, cautiously, for now. Eventually I will get them skimmed for match and parrallelism in a mill.

    I ran into clearance problems on the /7 with the instruments. They don';t go up when the bar does. So the clutch cable is mightly tight on the speedo cable at the back of the pod. Will see how that goes.
  9. Plaka

    Plaka Brevis illi vita est

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2010
    Oddometer:
    4,615
    Before I launch into some big write up, has this one been covered?
  10. Gripsteruser

    Gripsteruser Service Monkey

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2013
    Oddometer:
    930
    Location:
    N. Colo
    Haven't seen this issue here (and I've read all the postings !)

    1988 R100GS. Lost all ignition around 37,000 mi.

    Roadside wrestling didn't reveal the cause exactly because the problem went away as I moved wires in troubleshooting and hasn't returned but I noted that the wiring harness sags enough to rest on top of the engine case and is slack.

    Vibration was wearing flat spots in the wire insulation of the wires in the harness touching the engine top.

    Some plastic flex conduit was applied around the wire harness as a preventative. I recheck it periodically for more flat spots. (Best fix would be to secure it better and I proably will soon.)

    I'm sure that in the event of insulation wear thru that the wire harness would blow to protect any applicable fuses.

    (Saw this is the BMWMOA magazine a long time ago but it bears repeating for those with older bikes. Wire harness destruction would be a Bad Thing.)
  11. DoktorT

    DoktorT BigBrowedNeandereer

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    Apr 8, 2009
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    Location:
    Chewelah, WA
  12. Gripsteruser

    Gripsteruser Service Monkey

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2013
    Oddometer:
    930
    Location:
    N. Colo
    You'd like to think so but Murphy rules.
  13. boxerboy81

    boxerboy81 Stay Horizontal

    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2009
    Oddometer:
    2,737
    Location:
    Melbourne, Oz
    Here's a 3 minute video showing how long it takes to fit, remove and replace the R100RS screen using the #1 choice from the picture.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=atWOX3Sh-xg&feature=youtu.be

    [​IMG]
  14. Zodiac

    Zodiac loosely portrayed

    Joined:
    Aug 9, 2001
    Oddometer:
    31,778
    Location:
    Brooklyn
    FYI -

    McMaster Carr makes a really decent box of black pop rivets (plastic breakways just like OEM), but they're about 10x easier to install, and less 1/4 of the price of OEM.

    I've used both, the MC's are much better.

    And can be installed easily with any typical pop rivet gun (cheap) and some experience using one.


    http://www.mcmaster.com/#90219a330/=o4th0n
  15. shearboy2004

    shearboy2004 KIWIINUSA

    Joined:
    Jun 28, 2007
    Oddometer:
    4,446
    Location:
    Ft Collins ,Colorado
    Been hunting around for bulbs for tach and voltmeter on my 88 R100GS .
    Found Mercedes uses them too so picked 4 up for $7.89

    Mercedes part number 78180
  16. RecycledRS

    RecycledRS Along for the ride

    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,041
    Location:
    Vancouver Island
    just installed Boxerboys #1 solution and it works and looks great.
  17. Flying-D

    Flying-D Just Passing Through

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    Mar 21, 2010
    Oddometer:
    2,740
    Location:
    Cape Girardeau, MO
    :huh What is Boxerboys #1 solution?
  18. Zebedee

    Zebedee Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2004
    Oddometer:
    847
    Location:
    ... I was born a ramblin' man
    ... here's a bit of a clue for 'ya.

    Try using the scroll wheel on the mouse, or even the up arrow on the keyboard.

    The answer is a couple of posts up ON THIS BLOODY PAGE ... :fyyff
  19. RecycledRS

    RecycledRS Along for the ride

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    Nov 2, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,041
    Location:
    Vancouver Island
  20. Flying-D

    Flying-D Just Passing Through

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2010
    Oddometer:
    2,740
    Location:
    Cape Girardeau, MO
    Sheesh! Even more :huh!