Airhead "Tips and Tricks"

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by elmoreman, Sep 26, 2006.

  1. Wirespokes

    Wirespokes Beemerholics Anonymous

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    The K&N tends to either not fit correctly or shrinks so it doesn't seal properly, allowing dirty dusty air through. We're talking about the rectangular style on the '81 and newer airheads.
    #81
  2. opposedcyljunkie

    opposedcyljunkie Heavyweight Boxer

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    yes, i would think that the k&n i have is the same, standard one used since '81.

    i did check mine and it seals alright, as far i can see. should i lose it and use the original bmw air filter? i had a strong feeling that these original carb jetting were designed for the original paper filter.
    #82
  3. Wirespokes

    Wirespokes Beemerholics Anonymous

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    I have no experience with the flat airhead K&Ns. But there are guys who feel very strongly about them saying to ditch them NOW! If it's sealing, I'd keep an eye on it to make sure it stays that way. Monitor it.

    An easy solution to the jetting issue would be to try lifting the slide needle a notch. In other words, move the clip down the needle one notch.
    #83
  4. opposedcyljunkie

    opposedcyljunkie Heavyweight Boxer

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    I've tried that and it ran way too rich. It's currently on its stock setting of 3rd notch from the top. And it's running a bit lean in the whole throttle range. That's why I'm looking at the air filter as the culprit.
    #84
  5. Wirespokes

    Wirespokes Beemerholics Anonymous

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    The needle should only affect throttle openings from 1/4 to 3/4. It does sound like it's getting a lot more air to affect it throughout the range.
    #85
  6. opposedcyljunkie

    opposedcyljunkie Heavyweight Boxer

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    my next investigation would be the carb-to-head hose, leaking exhaust joints, and the round top of the carb which gets loose over time and causes air leaks.
    #86
  7. face scrape 2001

    face scrape 2001 avatar of Nullarbor graffiti

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    Maaate, all ya gotta do is chuck a litre of methylated spirits in the tank,, (no, don't :1drink ) it soaks up the water, it mixes with the petrol nicely and gives your m/c a bit more ooomph too. once a year is enough it seems for me.
    #87
  8. face scrape 2001

    face scrape 2001 avatar of Nullarbor graffiti

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    #88
  9. Beemerboff

    Beemerboff Long timer

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    Back to the carb question - are the springs above the slides still fitted ?
    Not all bikes had them ,so someone may have left them off, but they help to richen the mixture in transition.

    And do you have the correct needles - I spent a lot of time on the carb on my BSA B44 VS before discovering that I had been supplied with the wrong needle - the symptoms were the same as yours and the correct needle fixed things instantly .

    Dont know how to check the bing ones though
    #89
  10. opposedcyljunkie

    opposedcyljunkie Heavyweight Boxer

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    i pressume your questions are for me.

    yes, the springs are there. my needles are the correct, original ones but i noticed some pitting on the upper area. could be affecting fuel flow? :dunno anyway, new needles are on their way.

    as for the lean running, i will check furhter for air leaks this weekend. air leaks can only come from a few areas...
    #90
  11. datchew

    datchew Don't buy from Brad

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    Guys.

    I'm pretty sure this thread is supposed to be reserved for "tips and tricks" and basically "here's an easy way to do this and it works" type stuff.

    Would you mind taking other questions to other threads so we don't pollute this one as it IS a sticky?

    Thanks.
    #91
  12. Lornce

    Lornce Lost In Place

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    All discarded K&N filters should be sent to me. I'll even fire a fiver your way to cover shipping and anguish.

    Repeat: All discarded K&N filters should be sent to me.

    Thank you,
    Lornce
    #92
  13. Stagehand

    Stagehand Imperfectionist

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    I dont know if I saw this one-- Snowbum says he doesnt have any good answers if you biff this one but I just talked to Bing and got the skinny:

    If you have taken apart your Bing CV carburettor model # 64/32/357-8, and did not pay attention to which way your throttle plate was oriented when you took it apart-- there is a good chance there is a small embossed number on the plate. When you put it back together, first install the lever bracket on the outside, so it (the throttle shaft) seats correctly. (silicon grease the o-ring yadayada) then put the throttle plate in so the embossed number ends up at 12'oclock on the INSIDE of the carb.

    If you have installed it correctly, you will be able to look through from the other side, and see the plate touch the carb body at 12 and 6' oclock, and see a sliver of air at 3 and 9.

    Edit: I'm trying that now, but that last doesnt make sense.:cry I must have heard him wrong.

    second edit: Poster Below is right, just the same slice of air all around.

    The throttle plate is also camfered at the edges to fit as conic section in the bore.

    Ok.

    Thanks. Hopefully this will save somebody else the trouble.


    Jason
    #93
  14. RandyB

    RandyB .

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    If you look very closely, you can see the bevels. (No reading glasses jokes: You'll all be there one day, I hope.) Orient the bevels so that they are parallel to the bore when the butterfly is closed.

    It helps to leave the screws slightly loose when seating the plate to the bore. This helps to seat it evenly. Once it's correct (Even amount of light all around.), tighten the screws. Ensure the idle screws are backed out first. As usual, I learned this the hard way.
    #94
  15. elmoreman

    elmoreman takin' a break, boss

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    Yeah, really. Go pollute the "dark secrets revealed" sticky thread.:lol3
    #95
  16. datchew

    datchew Don't buy from Brad

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    Ouch! he he he. Fill it to the brim... only the first page matters!
    #96
  17. Motomech

    Motomech Adventurer in Latin Amer.

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    It's been suggested that I post this here, so here goes.
    When re-installing the starter motor, reverse the location of the starter mount bolts with the airbox/upper trans mounting bolts. In other words, use the Allens to mount the starter and use the hex heads to mount the airbox/trans. Much easier to remove the next time(and since this is in "Old School", you all know there will be a next time).
    #97
  18. RandyB

    RandyB .

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    Thanks. In about a week, it all goes back together.
    #98
  19. Marrakesh Red

    Marrakesh Red Banned

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    :clapHello All,:clap
    :ear:ear:ear:ear

    I don't have a Tip but I do have some questions that i'm sure someone here has enough experience to answer.

    I have an 1995 R100GSPD and I have heard that I can replace the French coils with Dyna Coils for better spark? is this true or is there an even better solution?

    Additionally while I'm on the subject of replacements...

    What about replacing the original Valeo starter motor with the Bosch 9 tooth unit?

    And finially, what about replacing the stock
    rubber diode board with aluminum ones from motorrad electrik? or is there a better solution??? [FONT=&quot]
    Thanks to all!
    [/FONT]
    #99
  20. RandyB

    RandyB .

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    The diobe board mounts are great. I have them on my GS, along with the Motorrad system and upgraded diode board.

    No clue on the others. On this board, tho, answers will not be long in arriving.