Airhead wheel spline repair

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by Wirespokes, Aug 24, 2010.

  1. Wirespokes

    Wirespokes Beemerholics Anonymous

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    Have any of you ever riveted in new wheel splines?

    I know it's possible to bolt them in, and I've gone that route before, but would prefer rivets. I've heard that rivets can be tricky - possibly loosening (or maybe not completely tight to begin with) doing some real damage.

    And I know they're a soft metal, not hardened or anything like that. Do they need to be heated? Is a press necessary or preferable?
    #1
  2. nella

    nella Been here awhile

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    I haven't done it, but there was a thread on the airhead list in the last week and the consensus was that using bolts is the way to go but I was only paying minimal attention to that thread.

    Scott
    #2
  3. TimTowtdi

    TimTowtdi Been here awhile

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    I always thought it would be cool if someone made a piece that would sit inside the wheel and was threaded that you could just run the bolts into and tighten the cup to the wheel. It would be shaped and drilled and threaded to fit around the spline cup and allow a good clamp. Anyone with the tools want to try making one? I'll buy a couple.

    TT
    #3
  4. Ron In Buffalo

    Ron In Buffalo Adventurer

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    I had a wheel "Stake" twice after six or seven yrs the pins becomes loose and eventually they start to fall out. The last time I used nuts and bolts this seems to be holding up just fine. Also it is cheaper to use nuts and bolts. Ron
    #4
  5. AntonLargiader

    AntonLargiader Long timer

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    I usually rivet them. No heat, no press. Just a BFH & punch, a solid base, and a few precautions.
    #5
  6. Wirespokes

    Wirespokes Beemerholics Anonymous

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    Got any instructions up on your website?:evil

    I've heard the rivets are fairly soft, but work harden rather quickly. I'd imagine the proper bucks would be needed to retain the mushroom shape of the head, and to not mush the squished side.

    Do you have someone hold the wheel against the buck? It sure seems like a three-handed job (minimum) to me.
    #6
  7. StephenB

    StephenB G(/)S ... what else!

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    So does Bruno in Canada, cold rivetting. He's doing that to earn a living so he most likely won't come up with instructions of how to do it, understandably.

    I understand that 12.9 or higher class bolts are necessary, definitely not stainless but who am I telling!
    #7
  8. wirewrkr

    wirewrkr the thread-killer

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    Terry, send the wheel over to Hansens in OREGON, talk to Craig, tell him Robert from San Jose BMW says howdi, and have it done right.
    rv
    #8
  9. Lornce

    Lornce Lost In Place

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    :brow
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  10. AntonLargiader

    AntonLargiader Long timer

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    Absolutely send them to Hansen's. They do this all the time.
    #10
  11. Wirespokes

    Wirespokes Beemerholics Anonymous

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    I know, Hansen's is THE place to send them. Their repair of the final drive splines is a thing of beauty!

    And that's the thing - I really like knowing how to do these things myself rather than depending on others to take care of my bikes.

    Rivetting, I'm afraid, is turning into a lost art. Maybe I should hang around the airport and get to know those guys. I think aircraft are all rivetted together. Anyway, I was hoping someone here understood the tech and could reproduce a product comparable to the factory. Or at least tell me the factory used a special 200-ton press in a particular way unduplicatable by mere mortals such as I. :lol3
    #11
  12. Bill Harris

    Bill Harris Confirmed Curmudgeon

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    The few times I've replaced a wheel cup I've used 1/4-28 grade-8 bolts, tapped the wheel hub and loctited them in. However, when I get my rear drive splines rebuilt I plan to send the final drive and wheel to Hansen's and let them do the whole enchilada (wheel cup and splines, including final drive bearings and shimming).

    Your call.
    #12
  13. boxermoose

    boxermoose Now fully goosed

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    When we train guys to rivet shroud to turbine blades we have them do a bunch of test pieces - perhaps you can do some simple mock-ups to get the hand of things

    cut them apart to check for swell in the hole - and try to pull a couple apart
    #13
  14. batoutoflahonda

    batoutoflahonda Long timer

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    Been working on planes for years. Riveting is like most things. Practice. If you really want to be proficient, pick up the tooling you need, some practice rivets and metal (maybe even a cheap rivet gun and bucking bar) and start practicing. Also practice drilling them out so you don't screw the hole up.

    It doesn't take to long to get feel for forming the rivet. The more you hit it, the harder they get. Even to the point of cracking. You can even practice with hole's that arn't perfect, and different lengths to get a feel for filling the hole. Heck, if I lived closer I'd give you hand.

    The rivet gun and bar REALLY help.
    #14
  15. M37cdn

    M37cdn Adventurer

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    #15