Aluminum Repair Rod Reviews?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by P B G, Mar 17, 2010.

  1. Stan_R80/7

    Stan_R80/7 Beastly Gnarly

    May 12, 2012
    The aluminum repair rod is a zinc/aluminum alloy. It is generally stronger than the base aluminum, but has little to low ductility compared to aluminum. So, the use depends on the application. I used some to repair a turn signal bracket which was part of a Krauser mount and it worked fine.

    Having the aluminum really clean and using a stainless steel brush (used only on aluminum) to clean the hot aluminum surface and brush the surface when hot enough to melt the repair rod is needed. So much that brushing the aluminum while applying the rod to the hot aluminum is key. The technique is essentially soldering or brazing except no flux is used. The 'flux' comes from applying the stainless steel brush to remove the oxide layer when applying the rod.

    The problems are the brittle repair and potential corrosion. For many applications, the lack of ductility is not an issue and paint will prevent corrosion. But, the aluminum for repair has to be hotter than the melting temperature of the rod.
  2. Beezer

    Beezer Long timer

    Oct 26, 2004
    Anchorage, formerly Spenard (hub of the universe)
    ... and once you get that zinc crap all over everything it is harder to weld the real way
  3. bob393

    bob393 Been here awhile

    Dec 23, 2010
    Goshen, NY
    This is what I use, It works perfectly, and they say the weld is stronger than the base metal which I'm inclined to agree with. Just make sure to brush the hell out of the base metal with a stainless steal brush until it shines. Must be super clean!
  4. showkey

    showkey Long timer

    Jun 25, 2007
  5. lpnb

    lpnb n00b

    Sep 4, 2009
    found this old thread I posted to ages ago thought I'd give an update.

    well, I build tool box, full rack and have welded up numerous other items, to date I have not had a single joint failure!!!

    the rack had done about 10,000km on rough roads and few thousand on sealed roads, 7,000k round aus trip fully loaded.

    the rack is 1" tube with a few mitred joints.

    I still can't believe how well it has held up.

    If anyone is interested i'll take some pics of the rack but I had to butcher it to fit the gsxr muffler.

    Oh yeah and I have crashed in the sand fully loaded at about 70kmh and dropped it at least twice at other times with

    happy days!
  6. flemsmith

    flemsmith lurk

    Apr 20, 2006
    Apache Junction, Az
    Learning to use HTS2000...
    I don't weld, make lots of brackets out of aluminum, and sometimes really need to 'weld' some of them together.
    What I've learned so far after buying the 1 lb starter kit of HTS2000 is to use candle soot first so I can tell when the temp is getting sorta close. (Think the soot goes away at about 500, and the brazing rod needs to see about 700 to melt.)
    Second, never skip the stainless steel brush cleaning step, I do it after the soot is gone to prep the material for the braze. And third, the braze rod must melt due to the temp of the aluminum you're trying to braze, not because you're putting it directly in the heat of the torch. And finally, I bought one of the Benzamatic torch lighters using it on normal propane. Gets things hot enough so long as you're dealing with small enough parts and you don't have them clamped with a heat sink too close to the working area. Still learning; so far I'm not very good at figuring out how to do the preclamps so the brazing goes smoothly. But it does work, and certainly seems stronger than JB weld, which was one of my old standbys. YMMV, post up if you have good advice for us metal noobs. roy
  7. 9Dave

    9Dave Bazinga!

    Aug 4, 2005
    Central Ohio
    You can buy temp sticks that melt at predetermined temperatures. Better than soot.