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Discussion in 'Airheads' started by Solo Lobo, Apr 9, 2011.
Richard, I have the triple with the stem, and you're welcome to it if you decide to go that way.
I know! :huh
BRING IT BABY
Jenna no need for the triples, BTA.
You and Stage better keep us informed on the rally!!!!
I also have that set of WP 50mm triples I started with that are cut to work with the BMW frame and have a shortened stem.... the stem needs to turned down 1mm, but otherwise it is good.
Forks returned from the specialist in Holland 2 days ago. No idea what has been done to them as yet I'm waiting for the bill to arrive...
I asked for them to be shortened by 85mm, using a spacer and sprung for a 220kg bike that's mainly used on tarmac and some forest/gravel roads.
I think he used Hyperpro progressive springs. Sticker is a giveaway
All the wheel/disc/caliper spacers fit as they should and everything is in-line and centered.
The rotor bolts had to be thinned down to give clearance - This is a paralever and I wanted to stay tubeless.
Its all a bit of a tight fit in the PD fairing but after raising the support by 5mm, its all good. The top clamp is a triple screw job so a bit thicker then the ones Solo is using.
The standard steering stop is used but it needs to be smaller as a lot of lock has gone.
The stanchions are pushed through by 20mm but there is loads more available if I need it. Should be about right though and if its not, the Rox risers give me plenty of room. I may get a new paralever made to jack up the back a bit and maintain the correct levels. The trouble is its endless... new paralever means a taller center-stand and then a longer side-stand...
Now have to get some brake lines, but living in the boondocks, its all mail-order and wait for it.....
Loaded in 1oz of dyna beads and found my bouncy-bouncy problem when doing so...see the trim line sinking into the rim?
deflated the tire, tried to lever it out and found this...:eek1
Time for a new TKC I guess....
Next question, anyone there seeing rotor wear like this?
The pads are only catching about 1/2 of the width of the rotor. The rotor is all the way home on the caliper and there's no way to increase the pad "bite" on the rotor...
Mine are ok. Sorry about the tire. I am having some brake issues. After about 10 mins city driving, the lever starts to reset itself very slowly. Almost like a sticky caliper. I had problems with noisy pads on this rotor, I changed them and now I get this weird lever thing. Anyone else have an HE rotor??
I had the 320mm HE rotor on my G/S factory front wheel and it was awsome! I run galfer green organic pads
Galfer green it is !!
bummer about the tire- at least it kind of answers a problem.
mine is pretty much the same pad contact with the rotor.
Because I partially fabbed up my caliper brackets I had a bit of a choice of where to put the caliper on the rotor. I ground out a little bit of the caliper carrier to get it in as far as I could but like you say, it can't go on very far, there really isn't that much contact relative to the potential area on the disc that could be used.
Oh well, they seem to work well.
And Redboots, Nice work!
For all our sakes (not just your own), do try to find out what was actually done to your forks. What weight springs? Re-valved maybe? These suspension folk seem to be cagey and secretive bunch, never quite wanting to let on what they've precisely done
I'm on the case! I need to know what spring/oil and level as well... in case I make changes and to add to the data collection.
new skins and some serious WEIGHTS
That looks worse in your last photo....
Looks like the caliper is designed for a much smaller diameter rotor. Loosing a lot of braking there and the pads will wear with a step in them... unless that swept area width is the same width as the pad material. What will that do to the outer edge of the rotor?
My HE caliper sweeps the whole area.
But it is a 640 KTM caliper, caliper carrier, rotor and fork...
Rode in today, some thoughts:
The wheel hop is gone!
Clearly my Ohlins out back has more sag and it set up much softer than the front.... This is causing the unbalanced feeling between the ends and is making evaluation of the front harder (the soft rear is making the front work harder).... I added 2 clicks comp and rebound to the back when I got to work and will have to add some pre-load as well
I took 6 clicks off both comp and rebound on the front.... the front still feels harsh over small bumps and perhaps a bit less "plush" than I would like over larger hits... first I need to bring the back end closer to the front and then will re-evaluate
Ok folks, I feel like a real shit for not taking video. I rode quite a it off road up in N GA yesterday with Nathan Mende of Boxerworks.....If your curious to google the roads we were on were: Duncan Ridge, Cooper Gap, Grassy Gap, W Wolf Creek. A bit of mud, big rocks, and lots of downed tree limbs.
This was worth the coin IMO off road. I feel so comfortable in the corners at speed on uneven and loose surfaces. I've never felt that on this bike. I felt like I could lay on the side of the tank in the corners. I took the BMW off road course a few years back, and any time I'm off road I begin my "turn" with weighting the peg in the direction of the turn, then body to the outside after the turn has begun, and all the weight on the outside peg, elbows up and out and turn the throttle like a door knob. It works and feels planted with the WPs up front. I wish I could communicate in suspension terms how "planted" I felt. It was almost like my tires were constantly pushing into the surface and getting the most traction possible in the situation.
So a big s up for the WP conversion. I couldn't afford it at the time, but the bike is much more enjoyable to ride off road. And bonus, unless Nathan was having a slow, mellow day, it made me much faster because I was up his ass and I usually can't get near him. Better suspension does make a better rider!!!!
yeah, but Nathan probably has shit for suspension......I'm just sayin'
Dang I'd like to get the DRZ out a play with you guys, hard for me to find playmates here. At least on a regular basis.
Finally took the new front end for a test ride today.
Pissing down with rain and very cold- not the best testing conditions for bitumen and a bald rear and full knobby motocross front tyre
anyway, it was good fun- It was not a serious test, as things are still quite literally cobbled together- but it was just a proof of concept sort of ride as a kind of reward.
Note the 'Öhlins Yellow' electrical tape holding things together After almost having to cut the last handgrip off that I slid halfway onto the new(old) throttle tube, I decided on a temporary grip- a rag wrapped around and electrical taped on
I have no headlight set up, nor front indicators so all I could do was run around my neighbourhood hitting speed bumps and testing the brakes and whatnot, hoping not to get in trouble by the 'boys in blue'
Initial thoughts are
I can't say I practiced turning much, but it hits bumps well.
With unshortened forks it is bloody tall- and I can see why people are leery of loosing any more turning circle. It is tough enough as is.
Aside from putting in new .6 kg springs, plus an Ohlins on the back sprung to my bike/weight, I haven't done any actual 'setting up' of the suspension- I haven't shortened forks (have just slid them up in the triples as far as I can) nor set front or rear sag, nor even fiddled with the reb/comp adjusters on front or rear. Hell, I haven't even changed nor checked the volume or weight of oil in the forks- there is some in there, that is about all I know.
Despite all this, and the problem described below, the suspension feels remarkably nice and if I had to I would happily take it for a ride in the dirt as is.
I couldn't hit a speed bump too fast- big hits seemed excellent. Undulations in the road seemed a little odd- more about that below.
Anyway, there is a lot to work out.
On old pads not yet bedded into this very lightly used 320mm rotor, the brakes are simply excellent. Given the knobby tyres and the wet, it probably isn't saying much, but I can lock up the front wheel with two fingers... a little too easily:eek1
I definitely won't be needing to upgrade anything brake related. I am happy.
My funky home-bungled caliper bracket(s) performed flawlessly. I did a lot of laps up and down my street hitting or riding the brakes and just watching the bracket and caliper assembly and disc the whole time and it is all solid as a rock.
I got the alignment right and by filing out the caliper bracket a little and rotating the caliper a little bit further around than stock (at more of an angle to the disc) I think I might have a teeny bit more rotor under the pads than Jenna's slick HE setup with the same disc. I'm sure it doesn't do a bit of difference though.
One thing that I am not happy with, and am a bit confused about, is around the first few inches of travel I am getting a bit of stiction. Basically around the whole area of travel from full extension- static sag- race sag and the bottom area of brake dive.
For example, If I hit the brakes I get some brake dive, then to some extent it just kind of stays down there. If I hit the throttle and lift the front a bit, then the forks extend again.
With static sag it is the same. Lock the front brake and push the bike forward and back and the suspension 'settles' in quite different spots.
I suspect this is the primary reason that big hits feel good and small undulations in the road felt funny.
I'd expect a bit of stiction, but it just doesn't feel right.
I've goofed up a couple of times with the axle and spacers- I think I've got it right now but the stiction continues.
My front wheel came to me with the rotor side spacer that slips into the hub, but not other side spacer. I bought this separately but it seems to be the exact right fit.
here is the side with the rotor, with most of the spacer slid inside the hub
then here is the other side spacer- this is the one to replace the old speedo drive one (that originally came with this wheel but did not get sold with the wheel)
Is this how everyone elses with this wheel and axle looks?
Has anyone found the KTM tightening and torque procedure?
Whatever the case, as I have it now I am neither pushing out nor pulling in the fork tubes. The forks are sitting exactly where they want to sit with a moderate amount of torque on the axle (and after Jenna's warning, not too much torque at all on the pinch bolts). I think the wheel is spaced properly and my stiction is not caused by forcing the forks out of alignment.
Of course before jumping the gun and declaring a problem I need to go through these forks and change the oil and set the sag/preload and whatnot, maybe that alone will help, but any ideas on this stiction?
So just thinking about your stiction problem, where is your rebound set? I have to get my welder back from Beater so I can make a tool to disassemble my other wp 50's and swipe the rebound needle. I'm just wondering if yours is bent like mine and stuck not allowing oil to flow. I've got 800cc in each leg of 7.5. I'll take some pics of my spacer set up, I know my wheel was not centered and I had to have a spacer made. Bike's lookin' good, Hans!!!