Anchorage to Ushuaia

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by bush pilot, Aug 30, 2011.

  1. bush pilot

    bush pilot Long timer

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    The mission to NM was multi-faceted:
    The Latin riders meet.
    A visit to Santa Fe where I lived for 18 years and catch up with some pals.
    A visit with my daughter in Cruces.

    I offered to buy Santaferider a beer but he declined for obtuse political reasons,:freaky

    Anyway I was back on the road heading east towards New Orleans and a visit with my son.

    After a cold and wet ride I stayed a night in Fort Sumner.
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    At the Billy the Kid Inn!
    A really super place, the owner made sure I had a nice place to park out of the rain, It was the nicest and cleanest motel room I've found to date.
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    Passed through Clovis, NM the home of Cannon AFB and the former home of the F-111.
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    And into Texas
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    Camped out by the Pease River battlefield near Margaret, TX.

    Then followed old US hwy 70 which meanders in and out of TX and OK.

    Good BBQ in Ringling, OK
    For some reason there wasn't any Armadillo on the menu! Great beef sandwich!
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    Then it was into Arkansas, buckle up!
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    I didn't spend a night in AR because every county I went through was dry.
    I spent the night in Haynesville, LA where there was thankfully some beer!
    I did have the best pork bbq sandwich of my life in Magnolia, AR!

    This was a typical rundown place in AR.
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    Then down to New Orleans to visit my son.
    I got to stay a few nights on this giant military RORO ship, 900 feet long! USNS Shughart

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    #21
  2. bush pilot

    bush pilot Long timer

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    I also stayed in Metarie LA on the tent space plan, that was great! Thank man!


    New Orleans is a pretty interesting place. Got into taking a few pictures.

    in the French Quarter
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    My son
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    After Bourbon Street it was time for a little culture at the sculpture garden.
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    The shot of the Botero was fuzzy, kinda appropriate I reckon.
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    An unusual Renoir bronze!
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    A lovely Maillol
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    I met Dina Vierny (Maillol's model) in Paris years ago
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    Rodin, perhaps my favorite sculptor
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    The premier piece was this very nice Henry Moore.
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    #22
  3. WeazyBuddha

    WeazyBuddha Carbon-Based Humanoid

    Joined:
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    :clap An update on one of my subscribed threads! Awesome, keep it coming.
    #23
  4. bush pilot

    bush pilot Long timer

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    Location:
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    More New Orleans

    An interesting neighborhood bar
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    lovely details on some of the old houses
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    And great colors
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    Robert E Lee
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    The St Louis cemetery #3
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    Sunset along the Mississippi river. This is a very busy river with a amazing amount of traffic coming and going day and night.
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    #24
  5. bush pilot

    bush pilot Long timer

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    The next photo shoot was in Selma, Alabama.

    I found the old cemetery very interesting.

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    So the plan was to head over to the east coast visit some old friends, meander the back roads of VA, NC, SC, GA, eating good bbq and staying in cheap motels.
    My plan was to get to Miami and airfreight the bike to Bogota.
    #25
  6. bush pilot

    bush pilot Long timer

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    The KLR turns 50.
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    ya don't see many Edsel's
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    Virginia country store off the BRP
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    A very pretty day on the BRP, leaves starting to turn.
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    James River
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    on top of the clouds Skyline Drive near Front Royal,VA
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    #26
  7. bush pilot

    bush pilot Long timer

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    After Louisiana I didn't take a lot of pics.
    After visiting pals and doing some maintenance on the bike I headed south along the eastern shore of Maryland and crossed over to Virginia on the Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel. $12.00 toll for a bike, jeezers!
    It was windy and rainy crossing.
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    Cotton fields in VA.
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    Virginia history lesson.
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    beautiful day in Arlie, VA
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    And then it was back south along the Blue Ridge parkway, I had the enviable pleasure of nearly peak fall colours.
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    the further south I got (Asheville, NC) the mountains higher an colours brighter.
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    The 39' Studebaker club was out enjoying the colors too.
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    In Asheville I got the bike's suspension overhauled at Cogent Dynamics.
    Rick and family are really fine folks.

    And down to Miami to crate and freight the bike.

    It rained the whole time I was in Miami!

    I passed through Daytona in the mist of the Biketoberfest chrome parade.
    Biketoberfest Daytona Beach Florida

    I didn't take any pics of the chrome clones, but there were thousands of them.
    It was a real fashion show!
    I was the only traveler I could see on a KLR.
    Some did come as far as Vermont.
    #27
  8. bush pilot

    bush pilot Long timer

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    Passing through Waynesborough Georgia, a weird bleak sorta place dominated by a nuclear power plant, I stopped for my usual late morning snack at Mickey D's.
    Before I got off the bike I spotted across the street a funky looking house under some big trees with a sign saying BBQ.
    I went over to discover Taylor's BBQ. I was there just before the lunch crowd.
    I had perhaps the best ribs ever, with sides of collard greens and black eyed peas.
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    Another great bbq in Homestead FL.
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    #28
  9. crowe2815

    crowe2815 kenoath

    Joined:
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    Magic photos and what sounds like a great trip:clap. Except for the Dry counties that is.:cry
    #29
  10. bush pilot

    bush pilot Long timer

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    Once I got the bike all crated and customs clearances done I flew out of Miami on friday oct 21. The bike was set to fly on saturday. I would be able to pick up the bike monday morning.

    I arrive in Bogota and wander around taking a bunch of pictures.

    Sunday morning photo walk around Bogata.

    Lots of street art, note the hole in the sidewalk, walking around was about as bad as Bangkok for hazards like that.
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    #30
  11. bush pilot

    bush pilot Long timer

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    Location:
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    Bogota page 2
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    soldiers and police on nearly every street corner.
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    Some old American junk
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    The girls love to stuff their plump butts into tight jeans
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    After taking this pic I was told to move along, by the guard outside!
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    I was scolded by a guard for take this shot. Even though I was quite discreet and the place empty, the clown was bird-dogging me!
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    #31
  12. bush pilot

    bush pilot Long timer

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    These little Suzukis where all over the place.
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    The internet bard
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    Concertina wire!
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    Art deco
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    My Guest house
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    #32
  13. bush pilot

    bush pilot Long timer

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    Come Monday, expecting to receive the bike, I discover that US customs has held up the export permission for my bike, claiming they need a power of attorney from my agent. This despite the fact that I presented the export paperwork to them in person the previous wednesday. WTF!

    Gaston my agent in Miami eventually gets it sorted out and the bike gets shipped. I was able to receive the bike on friday.

    This was a sight for sore eyes, In my excitement I didn't notice how crappy the picture was. Anyway y'all get the idea! My first experience in shipping and receiving a motor vehicle.
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    #33
  14. bush pilot

    bush pilot Long timer

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    I left Bogota first thing saturday morning, 7 days in Bogota was plenty, really not the most endearing place imho.

    I decided to go straight for Medellin, apparently there is only one road there. It was a busy 8 hours of adrenaline pumping passing and splitting lane action. Pretty countryside, though the one place I stopped to eat ripped me off! Charming!
    I arrive in Medellin in the dark to a busy saturday night. Busy it was!
    I wander and wander around looking for the motorcycle friendly guesthouse that was recommended. I must have noted the gps coordinates incorrectly.
    Couldn't find the place, so I settled for a cheap hotel with secure parking. Turned out to be a leaky smelly shithole with drunks carrousing outside my window all night.
    The next day had a nice breakfast and coffee, then found the intended guesthouse. It was indeed very moto friendly and more, great place.
    #34
  15. bush pilot

    bush pilot Long timer

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    My flurry of photos was in Medellin.

    Medellin is a busy, noisy, smoky and congested place.

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    Modern skytrain
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    the security would help the handicapped passengers
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    Fast food by tortoises
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    Gazillions of these china enduros all through SA
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    the city essentially is choking itself to death with these smoke belching collectivo's
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    Street people
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    Headless fish. They must be squeamish like Americans,
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    Legal gambling, I didn't check it out.
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    Next the Botero walk
    #35
  16. bush pilot

    bush pilot Long timer

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    Medellin is the home of Fernando Botero. So his sculpture liters this park, massive bronzes, cool stuff.
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    Medellin has a pleasant blend of people and culture.
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    A police KLR
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    An unusual blend of architecture.
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    to be continued
    #36
  17. bush pilot

    bush pilot Long timer

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    Leaving Medellin I stayed with some fellow motorcyclists.
    my bike got to share the garage with a nice and shinny Harley
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    I spent three more nights in Colombia on the way south on the Pan American hwy.
    I wanted to get off the PanAm but the one road I wanted to go on had reportedly had a bridge recently blown up. That and the obvious heavy presence of police and military everywhere I'd been seeing had me spooked. In the nine days riding in Colombia I was stopped 4 times by the cops who picked through my paperwork, I just wanted out of the country! Peru I was checked once, Chile 0, Argentina 0.
    Spent one night in Cali at a guesthouse that was reported to be moto friendly. They apparently converted the moto parking to an internet computer room.
    As I unloaded the bike on the street I was harried by someone telling me how unsafe the street was. The guesthouse staff was unhelpful.
    I had to park the bike in a lot public parking lot a block away! My room had no ventilation and was the most expensive to date. Apparently the owner is an expat from somewhere. He never did show up, even though the staff kept saying he would.
    Cali felt like a dangerous place, with surly kids wandering the streets and a general tense air to it. The food also sucked at the one place I ate.
    The traffic in the city was even more unpleasant than Bogota or Medellin.

    The next night I found a great motel out in the countryside for half the price.
    I was eager to get out of Colombia.
    Some travelers report how Colombia was their favorite SA country. The opposite was my experience. I think I made the mistake by spending too much time in the big cities. That mistake wasn't repeated going south.
    On the way back north I'll avoid the big cities.

    So I only took a few move pics in Colombia.

    typical town-countryside
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    It was raining and cold as I approached Ipiales(9200feet) the border with Ecuador. I pulled into the first hotel I saw asked for some food.
    This is what I got!
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    Talk about the right thing at the right time! Man o man was that delicious!
    The hotel/restaurant folks were so gracious they let me park the motorcycle inside the restaurant after they closed. I had three heavy wool blankets on my bed, I needed them all. It was cold up in them hills!
    The next day was on to the border crossing into Ecuador, my first for this trip.
    Got some money changer dudes to mind my bike while I got stamped out of Colombia. Once stamped I had to clear the bike out through customs. To bust my chops the customs guy wanted to see the original copy of my temporal import papers! Fortunately my spanish is good enough to out bluff scum like this and I told him this is exactly what the "aduana" in Bogota gave me, if he wanted to question them, then let's call them as I whipped out my phone.( I did have a Colombian sim and a contact#)
    He didn't call my bluff and I was outa there! Scum!
    #37
  18. poolman

    poolman Gnarly Poolside Adv.

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    Fantastic! Looking forward to the next installment.
    #38
  19. bush pilot

    bush pilot Long timer

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    Checking into Ecuador I met fellow rider from the UK on a Versys he'd bought in Cali. We rode together for most of the day and had a fine meal in a friendly little town.
    He sidestepped Quito and I went into Quito which is a huge nasty snarl of smoky traffic.
    I had to buy a new rear tube for the bike. I'd just used up my spare in Colombia.
    Stayed in a great guesthouse.
    Met the owner of the local Kawasaki dealer(he rides an Africa Twin). Got VIP treatment. He invited me to join a weekend ride with them to the coast. I passed because I had the hot springs in Baños on my mind.

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    Baños is a very cool quiet little town. It gets busy on weekends with tourists from Quito. All in all a very mellow scene. I could have stayed there much longer. A definite breath of fresh air after Colombia!
    Interestingly at my hotel I met another American who had just returned from Thailand and the stereotypical greedy/issan/witch scenario, we shared numerous tall tales over numerous tall beers.

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    Local marching band, man I was having fun!
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    Went to the hot springs everyday I was there
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    Town Plaza
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    My new pal's China enduro
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    My bike's little hideaway
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    Interesting trees.
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    #39
  20. ullukk

    ullukk Been here awhile

    Joined:
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    Hull, East Yorkshire
    Great thread this mate, excellent photo's, looking forward to seeing more of your journey down south.
    #40