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Discussion in 'Airheads' started by Plaka, Apr 2, 2013.
Your end goal sounds familiar. Minus the knackerd center stand. Body work has nearly 200,000 miles, the bike closer to 60,000. Hopefully I'll be able to change that, more this year than the last couple.
I plumbed it up like Snobum describes on his site. The tanks aren't on the bike currently, with out them installed the wife can reach the ground comfortably when she uses that bike..
Interesting mod on the advance limit. Let us know how it works out.
Gosh, I want some aux tanks..
I paid $50 for mine and they were color matched to the bike. Well the pinstripe is different, but I'm not complaining. The guy was only a couple blocks away from me and had a /7 he bought new, it looked like the Luftmiester catalog exploded on it. We were talking about all the accessories and he mentioned that it also had little gas tanks on the side. When he dug them out of the attic I smelled them, never had gas in them. I paid his asking price.
Don't throw out the epoxy on account of a rusty can.
Mix a small batch of epoxy first, if it goes cloudy when you mix it, empty the cans into two open topped buckets... don't mix it together. The hardener, or resin, or both have been contaminated by water. The resulting epoxy kicks off like bubble gum.
To bring it back to life:
Set up a heat lamp and let it cook until both parts are clear. May take an hour or two if you are working with a full gallon. The heat lamp drives the moisture out of the epoxy, by raising its temperature above ambient...
If the resin has crystals in it... or is thicker than honey, take the bucket and set it in a hot water bath (125-130 degrees) and stir it gently and it will loosen up and melt back together.
Epoxy on its own doesn't have a failure method from storage, it doesn't have volatiles to escape... so any thickening of the parts is crystallization, and rubbery finished products are from moisture contamination.
You've got a 30 year shelf life if stored properly, and if not stored properly normally it can be brought back to life by the above methods.
Zach... Boat builder.
I use electric oil radiator style heaters, and reflectix aluminum foil bubble wrap insulation stapled around the perimeter raises work surfaces inside that area above 60 degrees for general work. 60 is the magic number where paint, epoxy, polyester and vinylester cure with no issues the next day... much below requires baby sitting paint and poly/vinylester. A 10 X 10 area with a 1500 watt heater set to full blast and a heat lamp to see brings surface temperatures up to 70, and air temps up to 60 with out much fuss even if its blowing a storm and 30 degrees outside.
For small parts a heat lamp or two a foot or two away makes the difference. Epoxy doesn't feel wind chill. I use an infrared thermometer to judge temperature. Warming the epoxy with a heat lamp or bringing it in to a warm place overnight to get a 70 degree temperature makes the difference in wetting out cloth. Below 70 its trying to wet out a burlap bag with honey...
West systems fast hardener will kick off above 35 degrees, and be sandable the next day so long as it is done 3 or 4 hours before any dew hits it.
I've had old fast hardener turn blood red, and stink when you open the can... more so than normal, but the tech guys have said there is nothing wrong with it and I've had no issues.
The first photo is a mirror image right?
And why didn't you put the banjo bolt into the plug so you can undo this mod?
No more spooge? you mean water right? In that case, 1 hose won't really "breath" you will still get moisture in and it can't get out of the hose.
As long as you don't do water crossings the stock breather is fine imo....
If you catalyze the bondo, and catalyze about an equal amount of polyester resin then mix the two together evenly you end up with a paintable/spreadable coating that is easy to sand and builds quickly.
You can put that over 15 minute drywall mud, and it will toughen it up after the mud has been shaped, so you are slicking it out instead of doing heavy shaping.
Lastly, if you haven't played with peel ply, it is a treated cloth that resin doesn't bond to.
You can lay it down on your mold, lay up the part and peel the peel ply off the part leaving a surface you don't have to sand or grind, it is "Smooth" but has the weave of the cloth embossed in the surface, giving a better bond than what you can get with a grinder for the next coat of mud, or primer.
Otherwise, you can cover the mold in mylar packing tape and not have to paint it and wax it to get the part to release. Grin. This is a super slick finish, that requires sanding to prime or mud over.
So what't the problem? Its not really like your losing oil.... i barely see it on my bikes. Maybe you live in a place where its HOT and that's making it worse.
The thing is, water will get inside no matter what. You will trap the oil in the hose but also the water ruining your oil quality (yust my 2 cents)
Drilling a hole next to another hole..... I think it looks awkward, but that's just me i guess.
Sorry this made me .
You are drilling a lot of holes in that poor bike. The ones in the side of the sump made the sump weaker than it was.
Those 6mm bolts are not going to hold any sort of impact.
I know what can happen to a sump guard like that. I have been using something like that for more than 15 years and 300.000km.
The RS fairing is a remarkable piece of engineering when it comes to withstanding harsh treatment.
Mine's probably done a million corrugations on dirt roads.
Not to mention pot holes.
I use a sheet of durarock tile board with a piece of formica laid over the top. Slick, takes wax well.
I would make a riser for the part you want to build... glue a piece of plywood to the bottom of the form, then fillet the part to the table with modeling clay. It is always easier to cut the part down a bit, than it is to try for a perfect sized part fresh off a temporary mold.
You want a table about 10 inches wider than the part, if you are using vacuum bagging tape to hold it down. Make the bag 10 inches wider on all sides than the table, Stick down the outer corners first, then pleat up the inside edges to take up the slack. Put blue tape over the yellow tape first, so when you are wetting out you don't get any resin anywhere near the bag tape.
The front edge/highest point should really be extended 2-3 inches further than the part you want to make so it can take a radius, otherwise you are liable to pop the bag at that point, at some point during the time when your resin is curing... Which is bad, because your part will be worthless if left unchecked, boiled full of air.
Try to put a clear vinyl hose loop going to the bag rather than your red rubber... If you do suck resin into it, you won't have to throw away the red rubber hose. Also if you have a pressure pot, or can rig up a PVC pipe (Tap the sides for inlet and outlet above the height of the resin, pipe caps on top. Catch cans save your pump, won't kill the vacuum pump if it does get in the line.
You poor wretch - broken truck, broken glasses, sprained right thumb, sand in the splines, no job - pretty soon we're gonna start feeling sorry for you. Look on the bright side - at least you're left-handed, you're bike's on the road to recovery and the pina colada plan is coming together.
Maybe use this valuable down time to clean up your messy shop. But whatever you do, don't use this as an excuse to curtail your usual vitriolic essays.
Those float bowl pitchers..... is that your margaritas or my red wine?
Don't worry, I'll find out in the morning.
Welcome to the learning curve. Experienced mechanics would have noted the evidence of wrong threads before ever just trying and see what happens. Speigler sells to DIY'ers so should at least send you the right lines. But you futzed your calipers on your own dime.
Epoxy is never used for critical thread repair. Nothing is more critcal than front brakes.
Didn't you and I have a conversation about where I got my brake lines from, and that you didn't feel confident getting them from a local supplier ?
Not to be a Richard Cranium, but mine don't leak, and the thread pitch is correct...