Antigravity Batteries latest incarnations and discount...

Discussion in 'Vendors' started by Antigravity, May 10, 2012.

  1. ktm950se

    ktm950se Banned

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    Thanks for the update!
    I believe my KTM 950 Super Enduro's stock battery is a YTZ14S, which is listed on Yuasa's website as dimensionally 6" x 3 7/16" x 4 3/8" (150mm x 87mm x 110mm).
    So if I understand correctly, your 720 amp battery would be about an 3/4" taller than my stock battery, correct?
    While I'm not near my bike right now, I'm not sure I have an additional 3/4" space above the stock battery to fit a taller one.
    Am I missing something, or does your website not list a YTZ14 sized battery I could use instead?


    ktm950se
    #21
  2. ktm950se

    ktm950se Banned

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    Btt
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  3. Antigravity

    Antigravity Been here awhile

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    Hi, you are correct your bike specs a YTZ14...and our YTX-24 (720 CCa) would be about a 3/4" taller as you said...

    So you understand, there are 3 size YTZ case formats from Yuasa (lead/acid) the YTZ 12 and YTZ14 are EXACTLY the same in all dimension and only vary by .2 Ah (2 tenths Ah) and 20 Cranking Amps ( per the Yuasa specs)... so they are the same basically. Then there is the YTZ10...and it is about 3/4" shorter but other wise exactly the same just shorter. So we use THAT Case format (YTZ10) because it can become the exact same as the YTZ12/14 by putting a foam spacer on the bottom of a YTZ10 to raise the hieght (which is in the retail box). And since we could not fit the 16-Cell into the YTZ14 Case anyway we stayed with the smaller case and offer that in a 12-Cell format 360 Cranking Amps because people can use the shorter height if they want or put the foam to get the original hieght....

    So these are the facts when putting an Antigravity YTZ10-12Cell in your Adventure. A 12-Cell battery will easily start you bike MORE times in a row than the Lead/Acid counterpart YTZ14 and be about 7 pound lighter... BUT if you have extra accessories such as heated grips, or GPS and this stuff can run even with the ignition off you will have LESS capacity for longer term small-amp drains (like the bike sitting in a garage for months.....because the Lithium has MORE starting power and the ability to express higher amp discharges much better than lead/acid... BUT it will not have as much CAPACITY for long term low-amp drain (parasitic drains) because lead is a much bigger battery physically. BUT if you did go to the larger size Antigravity then it will uttery crush the lead in all areas beacuase it will be a bigger battery more equal in size to the Lead but still be 50% lighter and have more CAPACITY and literally 3 times the power of the same physical sized Lead/Acid battery. It would flip the bike very fast and would have barely any voltage drop.

    So to answer your question... You are correct the larger YTX12 Case format we use for our larger batteries is exactly the same in length and width to your YTZ14... but it is 3/4" taller... So it probably won't fit unless you see you have the 3/4" available. You could also try our Small Case 16-Cell but it would have to be laid on its side... Which is fine for lithium but it not as pretty as a direct fit.

    If you have any other questions let me know.

    regards,
    #23
  4. ktm950se

    ktm950se Banned

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    Great info, thanks!
    I'll take some measurements shortly to see if there's 3/4" more room above the stock battery to upgrade to the YTX-24 (720 CCa).

    It sounds like the way to go!

    Sincerely,

    ktm950se
    #24
  5. mookymoo

    mookymoo Mookish Mook

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    Any plans for a larger capacity YTZ14?
    #25
  6. Antigravity

    Antigravity Been here awhile

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    Hi Mooky,

    We use the YTZ10 Case format for our version battery to replace the lead acid Yuasa YTZ-10 YTZ-12 and YTZ-14. The reason we can't make our Antigravity any larger is because a maximum 12-Cells only fit into any of those cases. So we chose the smaller YTZ 10 case format which is the most compact of them all yet still fits the 12-Cells...the only difference between all the cases mentioned is the height. S we can offer a more compact battery if needed yet produce more power than the larger models..... Also keep in mind the YTZ 14 though is may seem like it is a bigger battery than the YTZ10 or YTZ12 is actually only .2 (2/10ths) of an amp hour more than the YTZ12 and only has 20 more cranking amps at 230 Cranking amps compared to the 210 of the YTZ-12. The YTZ12 and YTZ14 are basically the same battery being that 20 Cranking amps and .2 amp hours really aren't of any benefit and they are the exact same size.

    Last, our battery is 360 cranking amps and has12Ah (PbEq rating) and will be much more powerful than even the YTZ14, and start the bike more times in a row with higher voltage and faster motor spin... BUT the YTZ14 Lead/Acid would actually last longer sitting in a garage with a mild parasitc drain using the batteries energy.... This is because the lithium battery has much more front loaded power in a smaller package and the lead is a denser brick that can hold more capacity... but that capacity is not effective at high amp draws like starting... So that is the trade off.

    If you have any other questions let me know. Best is to email scott@antigravitybatteries... some time I don't get notifications from this thread.

    Regards,
    Scott-
    #26
  7. Stovebolt

    Stovebolt Team Ruptured Buzzard

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    I just bought one of these for my 2010 KTM 450 XCW Six Days - my dream bike.

    (Build thread, here: http://ridedualsport.com/forum/index.php?topic=1086.0)

    The stock lead-acid battery lasted until a week ago, and went Tango-Uniform with no notice. Since I'm gearing up for more riding and further shenanigans in Nevada next month, I thought it might be nice to have a battery, even though Casper the Friendly Punkin kicks and starts smoothly. Who wants to kick-start a motorcycle anymore?

    (Ride announcement here: http://ridedualsport.com/forum/index.php?topic=2881.0)

    Anyway, this item has been on my list of things to get to upgrade my bike, but I just hadn't done it. A dead stock battery is a powerful motivation for somebody who likes to ride. I received this 8-cell unit right away quick and it practically floated out of my driveway from the UPS drop box - it's so light! And the bike NEVER started so quickly or easily, such was the immediate boost in cranking amps. "Casper" has almost 8,500 miles in him... still starts and runs like a raped ape, but the difference in batteries was noticeable immediately.

    Should have gotten this a long time ago. The weight savings and performance increase are outstanding.

    I got mine from Ironman Dualsport in California - Bob is one solid brother.

    http://www.ironmandualsport.com/

    Thanks Antigravity for an excellent battery. Far better than the older lithium ion offerings that were the only game in town a short while ago.

    Rally on,

    Stovey

    #27
  8. Nob

    Nob n00b

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    Ey up, just wondering which Antigravity battery is recommended for the Aprilia V4 Tuono ? We could do with a bit of space somewhere and these look just the job.
    #28
  9. Antigravity

    Antigravity Been here awhile

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    According to our books from Yuasa the Tuono V4 takes a YT12A-BS... This battery is the same physical case size as our YTZ10-12 model, but the our lithium will have quite a bit higher cranking amps and weigh 5-6 pounds less.

    If you have any other questions feel free to drop us a line at info@antigravitybatteries.com.

    Regards,
    scott-
    #29
  10. satchmo3

    satchmo3 Adventurer

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    Scott,

    Do you make a drop in replacement for a BMW F800GS, and if so would I want 12 cell or 16 cell?
    Couldn't find my bike on your website chart.

    Gracias.
    #30
  11. Antigravity

    Antigravity Been here awhile

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    We make the drop in for the F800 it our YTX12-12 or YTX12-16 (12-cell version or 16-cell version)... Same case size an format as the YTX14 that is spec'ed by the Manufacture. 12-Cell or 16-Cell depends on type of riding mostly... The 16-Cell will have more cranking amps pretty massive power compared to a lead acid and a bit more capacity than the 12-Cell version. This would benefit if you ride more often in colder climates, or have extra accessories on the bike. The reason for the benefit in colder climates is basically because the more cranking amps you have, the more overhead you would have for cranking in colder climates.

    All lithium batteries have a cold lag... in very cold temps the battery will seem a bit more sluggish but will self warm after some amp discharges and get back to full power...but with a more powerful battery in the first place the effect is not as pronounced. Hence bigger Cranking Amps equals better cold weather starting. This is an area where we can trump the other lithium manufactures becasue we can offer much more power in the same physical size.

    Regards,

    Scott-
    #31
  12. Loui€

    Loui€ Rides With Reindeer

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    hello Scott!

    please, can you correct real sizes and weights to your web-shop site (or here), or are all the batteries same size and weights (16 oz)?
    I prefer metric, ie. mm and gramms...

    http://shop.antigravitybatteries.com/antigravity-batteries-ag401/
    http://shop.antigravitybatteries.com/antigravity-batteries-ag801/
    https://shop.antigravitybatteries.com/antigravity-batteries-ag1201/
    https://shop.antigravitybatteries.com/antigravity-batteries-ag1601/

    I'm very much interested in 12 or 16 cell version, for my KTM 990 adve.

    1. what is the difference between
    'The Antigravity 12-Cell : 2.3 lbs (about 1043g) ' and 'Antigravity Batteries AG1201 : 16oz (about 500g) '

    or none, just 'typoerror' in specs (weight)?

    2. what is the real Ah in 12 cell and 16 cell (not the PB Eq)
    (I mean to drain out with camping ligts, eg., not starting the engine)

    3. I've heard, that these batteries can't be charged with a normal lead-battery-charger but only with Antigravity special one?
    if so, why? (normally of course, bike will charge it...)

    Regards,
    Loui€
    #32
  13. Antigravity

    Antigravity Been here awhile

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    Answered in UNDERLINED STATEMENTS

    #33
  14. Loui€

    Loui€ Rides With Reindeer

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    #34
  15. wpbarlow

    wpbarlow Long timer

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    For a 950SM-- the correct battery would be an Antigravity YTZ10-12; correct?

    My original Yuasa has lasted almost 7 years. The bike doesn't sit a whole lot (and hardly ever for more than 3 weeks), is/was always on a tender when not being used, runs heated gear in the winter (vest, gloves, and sometimes socks), and never had any issues. So you can say I am pretty satisfied with it, and it's hard to beat that price/performance.

    I do like the weight difference, but it's not as critical with the SM compared to the SE (the SE has to be picked up a lot :lol3).

    I have a Shorai in my 950SE for over a year and it works fine so far-- started the bike in the 20's last winter with the proper warmup; runs the same heated gear as above, never on the tender. I'm curious to see how it fares this winter.
    #35
  16. leftystrat62

    leftystrat62 Adventurer

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    I just read through the 3 pages and still had a few questions for you. You mentioned:
    "The 16-Cell will have more cranking amps pretty massive power compared to a lead acid and a bit more capacity than the 12-Cell version. This would benefit if you ride more often in colder climates, or have extra accessories on the bike. The reason for the benefit in colder climates is basically because the more cranking amps you have, the more overhead you would have for cranking in colder climates."
    I understand about the cold climate= bigger battery,but what batteries do you recommend with what temp ranges ? I have a Yamaha WR250R, live in R.I. and try to ride the WR even in the winter. I typically ride in 40-50F & above temps,but there are several rides(maybe 8-10 x's per year) where I leave my house and it's in the 30's or I'm on a trip and am camping out and it goes down into the 20's. What would you recommend with out being overkill?
    You also mention if you have extra accessories that will make a difference to what size you need. I always thought as long as those accessories are OFF when you start your bike-they won't affect it? Is the battery still working to keep those things going once your bike is running? Was that more of a warning in case you accidently leave them on?
    You also make mention of that dangerous 10.5 volts and below can kill a battery. What would you recommend for someone who wants to do a trip and store their bike at a storage location,and then return 10-12 months later to continue their trip. Is it possible with out the battery being plugged into a charger?
    Last,I assume that leaving things charging over night in your tank bag(cell phone,camera battery,scalar head set battery) as I have done in the past with no problems will work fine with these batteries as well? Thanks
    #36
  17. LexLeroy

    LexLeroy Chief Mansplainer

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    Scott,

    I just received the YTZ10-8 that you sent for my XR650L. Even in the OEM case size it's incredibly light - a full 4 1/2 pounds lighter than the original AGM unit.

    [​IMG]

    I replaced the factory regulator / rectifier with a Shindengen MOSFET unit last year in anticipation of doing the battery this spring. The original R/R was charging the old battery at almost 15 volts - within factory specs but too high I was told for AGM let alone LiFePO4 units. The new R/R holds a steady 14.4 volts from idle upwards, hopefully no more than what this new battery likes to see as a charging voltage.
    #37
  18. Foot dragger

    Foot dragger singletracker

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    Ive seen a few of these,Shorai and Anti Gravity that melted in place on the bike. I guess they dont do that too much?
    #38
  19. KustomizingKid

    KustomizingKid Been here awhile

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    I am in the market for a new lightweight battery and am torn between anti gravity and shorai or maybe ballistic... Choices.
    #39
  20. LexLeroy

    LexLeroy Chief Mansplainer

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    Heavy reading, but go here. Inmate Cy has done some serious testing of various Lithium batteries, including cutting them open to see how they're constructed. It's mind-numbingly technical but well worth the read - and might help you make a better battery choice.
    #40