Any Honda Dominator NX650 owners out there ?

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by KeithDommirider, Jul 31, 2007.

  1. Bounder

    Bounder ExternallyDisplaced

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    Yes, put socket on the end of the crank, turn the crank anti-clockwise and look at the small hole you will see a mark with "T" next to it, when the mark lines with the groove in the hole its TDC but compression will have a click exhaust will not click.
    L_Francisc likes this.
  2. JCool

    JCool Long timer

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    If you go approximately 45*/ , 1/8 turn PAST TDC , you don't have to listen for the click.
  3. scrambler66

    scrambler66 Been here awhile

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    I don't, because IMHO the 650 isn't really good for commuting (at least if were are talking about short distances). The engine takes some time before it reaches operating temperature but on the other hand, quickly overheats when waiting at traffic lights. I thus like my NX250 with its water-cooled engine much better for commuting, considering also the consumption of around 3l/100km :D
  4. mas335

    mas335 xendurist

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    Has anyone tried a 16 x 47 gearing for mostly highway use? Does the NX tolerate this gearing good enough? Wondering how it would work to help quiet it down a bit plus drop the RPM's with the hopes of getting a little better MPG.

    I have owned 4 NX250's. great little bikes, crappy soft oem rear shock with no preload adjustment. Decent NX250's are getting extremely hard to find in the US. I bought this pair of 250's from the original owner.

    Attached Files:

  5. Lajbi

    Lajbi Adventurer

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    Hi!

    I'm just a new dominator owner from Hungary. Bought a RD02P from Italy. It's '93 made, first plated '94. As I see, it not used at all in last two years. The bike had no big problems, but lot of small stuff neglected as I see. Some plastic damage on right side (hand guard, underseat panel), and rattling noise from head (decompressor?) when decelerate. I just changed engine oil/filter, the rattling getting less, but just 10km in it. I planed to use it for ~1000 km, and give it a full service: engine oil, fork oil, valve clearance, carburetor, new chain (gold sided, of course ;) and sprockets, etc. The decompressor rattling is becouse of long stop, and can go away with good oils?

    Also, the rear shock not in very good shape, I need to find solution for this at winter. Don't decided the mods yet. Basically, I want to keep it in original shape. Give it some new hand guards (polisport evolution), rdmoto crashbars if that save the side plastics, and maybe high fender (polisport SM line, seams to have good airflow).

    But before any mods, I need get sorted out that ugly rattling noise, any advise welcome.

    Nice to see mates on old but good bikes.
    lajbi_domi_1.jpg
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  6. Bell driver

    Bell driver Been here awhile

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    The rattling from the head is most likely due to fried valve rockers and camshaft.
  7. JCool

    JCool Long timer

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    Rattling on deceleration is usually the cam chain tensioner. The Polisport SM Line fender is the best looking I've seen. I got one a year or two ago.
  8. Lajbi

    Lajbi Adventurer

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    Thanks for quick rep. This noise is not the chain or valve. More like a bicycle rear hub when pulled backward as.
    And not always, just sometimes. Whit new oil and warm, half than before...
  9. Bell driver

    Bell driver Been here awhile

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    Open it up und have a look. Stops the guess-work.
  10. scrambler66

    scrambler66 Been here awhile

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    Very neat :clap. I figured out an affordable replacement for the marsh-mellow filled shock http://forum.nx250.de/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=611&p=4120#p4120

    16x47 seems mighty long - I guess you will have to shift a lot more away from highways.

    A loose cam chain generates a soft rattling, worn out rockers a soft clacking - as if the valve clearance is a bit too high. But both noises aren't that loud. One thing that generates a real loud clacking is a loose valve seat. Check the exhaust valve clearances - if one is way too high its most likely a loose valve seat.
  11. mas335

    mas335 xendurist

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    Thanks for the NX250 shock link. I was aware of the Bandit Shock mod but never read such detailing about fit and performance like you provided, great write up.

    Since we are talking about rear shocks is there a plug and play substitute for the 89-90 NX650? The OEM NX shock is horrible and it is hard to justify a $550-$650.00 usd investment for just a shock.

    I'll probably try the 16T counter sprocket on my NX650 just to satisfy my curiosity. The gear inch difference from the standard 15 x 45 would be similar to using a 15 x 42, I would think somebody has tried that?
  12. scrambler66

    scrambler66 Been here awhile

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    Not that I know of. The first NX650 had a pretty stiff rear spring (160nm http://www.wp-germany.com/userfiles/file/wpgermany/downloads/abe/ABE-Federbeine-4014-Teil-3.pdf) which is rarely reached by any other bike. But I heard good things about YSS shocks http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-NX650...82fa92af3:g:FSkAAOSwezVWxJC-&vxp=mtr#shpCntId though I haven't tried them on a NX650. On my NX250 the YSS performed well.
  13. Lajbi

    Lajbi Adventurer

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    The 16/47 seams quite long.
    The factory changed 15/45 and 15/47 during years.
    The ratio: 15/47: 3.13, 15/45: 3.00, 16/47: 2.93
    The speed at 5 gear, 6000 rpm: 143, 150, 153 km/h, at 3000 rpm: 71, 75, 76 km/h.
    Ideally, at 7500 max rpm, 5 gear with 15/45 speed is 180 km/h. With 16/47, @7500rpm and 4. gear: 153 km/h.
    So, i think if you choose 16/47, the max speed at 4. and 5. will be same. This is the situation (same top speed on 5 and 6) on my xr250l, but it has 6 gears...

    Despite, the factory chain 108 or 110 long, not sure this enough for 16/47.
  14. Grump

    Grump Griff

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    A friend has the YSS on his Dominator and I have one on my CRF250L . I am happy and so is He.
  15. sashaL

    sashaL Been here awhile

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    If you're willing to spend a fortune, I had a custom shock built up from TFX (product number 141) by a guy named Ted Porter from Beemer Shop in California. It's got adjustable high and low speed compression, and I had a Tractive Hydraulic Preload assembly added to the build as well. All in it cost a little over $1,000, but between that and my Racetech forks, I managed to turn the lowly NX into a dirt bike. Not that there's any dirt in NYC, but some day it'll be ready for South America...
  16. mas335

    mas335 xendurist

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    I miss spoke on my original posting, I meant to say 16 x 45. I had 89-90 Transalps on my mind which does use a 47 chain ring. When you have owned 23 Transalps like I have they are always on my mind....... Sorry for the confusion.
  17. L_Francisc

    L_Francisc Adventurer

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    Well, greetings my friends, I have a problem. My 1991 RD02 Domi, isn't starting. With the spark plug out the engine revs ok, the piston is turning, with the spark plug in it isn't working. I have set the valve clearance, I have tried to jump start the engine from a car battery. Nothing, it cracks sometimes but it won't starts, it is just making click click noises... what should I check next? (excuse my English it's not my native language)
  18. Lajbi

    Lajbi Adventurer

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    Hi Guys!

    I have no advance on cylinder head, because my Son got hit by a roe deer, and hi occupied the workshop to repair the xr250l baja. (He is ok, the ugly but unique and good double head lamps seams destroyed, dumb ass roe deer killed by hunters ).

    So I did some small jobs, and just wondering. Do I miss some part from the back of tank, which keep my seat front at place? (see pictures).
    I looked at oem parst ( http://oem-parts.hu/hu/upload/oem/c...rge/1010189-1010189-f-14-uzemanyagtartaly.png ), maybe part number 11?

    Other question: if I want to remove the crankcase breather (good place for chain oiler), which is better: a straight line to airbox, or a long pipe up to seat + filter? Or let it as is, and find another place for chain oiler tank?

    Thank you.

    Attached Files:

  19. equator

    equator Where's the U turn?

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    What is death by a thousand cuts? That's when most of the bike problems are or is related to a bad CDI. Looking back (months) I can see those stalling issues, hiccups while trying to pull away, jerkiness or just plain weird behaviour, all almost solved by changing the CDI. Those countless times trying to fix the air/fuel ratio. Rebuilding the carb. Even thought of changing the carb. All that funny quirkiness slowly creeping up on you cause it was tiny glitches here and there, building and building thru the months. Of course finally becoming bad enough, searching thru the web for answers, came across a thread (somewhere else) and decided to try a new CDI. Suddenly like the clouds lifted And the suns rays are shining thru again.
    kylkim, JCool and Bounder like this.
  20. mas335

    mas335 xendurist

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    Lajbi,

    Yes, you are missing part number 11. I am needing the same part, the previous owner of my 88 bike did not reinstall it and managed to loose it, tosser.

    I fabricated a mount that at least for now works but not as well as the original part.