Any Honda Dominator NX650 owners out there ?

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by KeithDommirider, Jul 31, 2007.

  1. switch

    switch Romanian Trailbiker

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    I've got a white one that I'm not sure if I want to sell.

    For the NX, I use the widely available (for free download) NX 650 service manual '88-'89. It works like a charm for 92-94 models and even beyond. It's a bit vague but it gets the job done.
  2. Dr LC8

    Dr LC8 ...soon or later

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    Manchester...but from Rome!
    I am sure you wanna sale it:rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl
    What are you waiting for:huh :huh :huh

    Let me know

    Nic
  3. PilbaraGoat

    PilbaraGoat Been here awhile

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    Tom Price, WA/Bendigo VIC
    Me too, me too....sell it to me. It deserves a new home down here in Australia.:evil
  4. burbansk

    burbansk Exit 202 Mio Mad Man

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    It looks like I need to replace my CDI unit. They no longer seem to be available ( Bike Bandit ). Does anyone know if I can use one from another Honda 650 or a 600. Or even somewhere else to look for a new one. I have read on 4 strokes.com of people using 93-00 ones from 600's on 83 500's but nothing about the Domi. Thanks, Bruce
  5. Pablo83

    Pablo83 Sleep, Wrench, Ride

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    This is another question that gets asked a lot so I'll add it to the FAQ

    Short answer:

    There are two plugs on the CDI; a four pin plug and a two pin plug. Look at the two pin plug. If there are two wires coming out of it, you can use an XRL CDI. If there is only one wire coming out of it, you cannot.

    Long answer:

    The second wire on the two pin plug is used for safety reasons on some Honda models. On these models, this pin needs to be grounded for the CDI to work. On the XR650L (XRL) this is used for the kickstand switch. If the kickstand is down and you click the bike into gear, this wire looses it's ground and the CDI stops working which kills the engine. The US NX650 did not have a kickstand switch, so the NX CDI did not require this pin to be grounded for the CDI to work. Since it wasn't required, Honda did not bother to run a ground wire to this pin on some of the NX's, but on others they did. My official Honda wiring diagram shows that this ground wire should be there even though it was never installed at the factory on my bike ('88 US model NX650).

    If you only have one wire and need to replace your NX CDI, here are your choices:

    1) Find an NX650 CDI - I found an online store a while back that sold reconditioned NX CDI's for about $70, but I can't seem to find the site again. I'll keep looking. If anyone else knows where to find these, please let us know.

    2) Run a ground wire to the extra pin - you have two choices here:

    A) Find an old Honda wiring harness - Honda used this style CDI plug for many different models. Get your hands on a harness with the right plug (eBay, etc.), cut off the plug but leave a long section of the two wires attached. Splice it into your NX harness. On the four pin connection there is also a ground (green wire). You can splice the two-pin ground wire right into the four-pin ground wire (this is how it is wired from the factory for models that have the two-pin ground connected. At one time I plugged an XRL CDI into my NX so I did this modification to get it to work.

    B) Find new wiring components - Cycleswareables.com carries many different electric connectors. The site is not very user friendly. I believe the plug is an FRS series, part number FRSY-107 (cyclewareables PN CW34-0283KL), the pins would be FRS-102 (CW34-9296KL), and the boots should be FRS-103 (CW34-9297KL). You will also need a crimping device that fits these pins (probably a Molex style crimping device). I haven't tried this method so I really don't know how reliable these part numbers are. If you try this, please let me know how it works out.
  6. Derekdirtking

    Derekdirtking Adventurer

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    Hi, i own a 95 honda dominator and need some advice on the best way to repair a worn gear selector shaft and lever. Dont want to replace the shaft as this means splitting the engine and i dont have either the time or money to do this. ive looked around some other forums and i hope to gather up as much info as possible to make it a bit easier to decide the best way forward. any advice on this issue would be great .Thanks.
  7. Pablo83

    Pablo83 Sleep, Wrench, Ride

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    Have you tried just replacing the lever? You might be able to get a few more miles out of it with a new lever, but eventually you're going to need to replace the shaft. I haven't heard of any other solutions.
  8. switch

    switch Romanian Trailbiker

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    Welding. Hold the pedal in the right position (make sure to put the screw in as it secures it laterally) and put 3-4 weld spots on the shaft-lever contact area. Don't overdo it as you might want to remove it at a later date.
  9. switch

    switch Romanian Trailbiker

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    www.ignitech.cz make CDI ignitions compatible with the NX650. Price is 130e + shipping (should be 15-20e). So ~150euro (about 200-210 USD) shipped. Good stuff from my experience.

    There's also a UK supplier that provides CDIs and Rectifiers for less than that, but I am unsure of the quality.
  10. burbansk

    burbansk Exit 202 Mio Mad Man

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    Thanks Switch, Believe it or not I found a Honda dealer close to me ( Powers Edge Motorsports in Fremont, MI. 49412 ) Who said he could get it for $108.23 plus shipping. The part # is SKU 30410-MN9-791 Module, Ignition Control ( Shindengen ). Going to give it a shot. Will let you know what happens. Thanks again all for the info.
  11. r3r3r

    r3r3r Wildebeast

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  12. petros600

    petros600 Adventurer

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    Good price, here is another one for $109.40
    http://www.mrcycles.com/fiche_secti...ry=MOTORCYCLES&make=HONDA&year=1988&fveh=3594


  13. Derekdirtking

    Derekdirtking Adventurer

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    Think this may be my temporary solution as i have access to a mig welder at work. Do you think with a minimum amount of tack weld it will hold out? im planning a small trip in few weeks and want to be sure its not gona break on me!
  14. switch

    switch Romanian Trailbiker

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    A friend's done over 5000km (2500+miles) this summer with a welded pedal. Three weld-points, covering something like 1/4-1/3 of the contact circle.
  15. Pablo83

    Pablo83 Sleep, Wrench, Ride

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    Unplug the CDI from the wiring harness before you weld on the bike. You don't want to fry the unit. I usually unplug everything I can before welding on a bike (regulator, stator, pulse generator, etc.), but I'm paranoid like that.
  16. switch

    switch Romanian Trailbiker

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    I agree with the advice. I'd've done the same, but the mechanics who welded on my BMW (EFI, ABS, all that shmack) did it with only the battery leads removed (they welded the topcase support right on the bike). No damage. On my dommie they did the same (for centerstand/sideracks) with -again- just the battery leads out. Kinda makes you wonder if being paranoid is always good.
  17. McVick

    McVick Been here awhile

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    Ok, Replacing the fork seals.
    Long story.... but I have managed to get the upper slider bushing nestled securily into its spot inside the top of the fork slider. Unfortunately I got myself all mixed up and forgot to install the fork tube first!

    So now, I can not get it out sot that I can reassemble everything properly. It is stuck!

    I have tried:
    - a small right angle pick to pry it up from the bottom
    - a slide hammer - but the hooks would not grip the bottom edge
    - a gear puller - but the hooks would not grip the bottom edge either
    - small pick or screw driver in from the top edge to try and fold the bushing in on itself but I don't want to damage the inside of the slider tube.

    I NEED IDEAS OR A SOLUTION!

    the bran new bushing is trashed already - I scrapped a bunch of teflon off it with slipping tools in the attempts to extract it. But, I already have a new one to go in.

    A mechanic at a local shop suggested heating the slider tube but I'm not a real big fan of heating metal to get it to expand when your working with a finished piece.

    HELP!!


    Thanks
    Brian
  18. Pablo83

    Pablo83 Sleep, Wrench, Ride

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    Brian, I'm surprised your slide hammer didn't work. After all, that's essentially the way you're supposed to get it out in the first place. The only thing I can think of is to get a couple different shapes of dental picks and try to work them in so you can pry one side up.
  19. McVick

    McVick Been here awhile

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    Thanks,
    The slide hammer I have just has little hook attachments for the working end but they are not sharp enought to grip into the bottom edge of the bushing.
    I suppose I could try grinding the hooks down to a more precise edge.

    I'm also thinking of using a Dremel to delicately grind away at the bushing from the inside until it is thin enough that it collapses into itself easily.
  20. webmonstro

    webmonstro A Aventura Continua....

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    Jul 21, 2008
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    Hi
    When i replaced the fork seal on my xt350 i found the best way was to drill a small hole in it and used a stiff wire to pull it out
    how about melting it with a torch ??
    good luck
    Nuno