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Discussion in 'Road Warriors' started by Tall_Canuck, Jan 23, 2008.
Good Luck with the rebuild.
Thanks, I have to undo two years of neglect on my part (stopped riding it after I got my 990). So it is my bad to start with. Thankfully it was a really strong bike to start with, so I have some high hopes.
Lots of potential for change or just keep it a clean functional stock bike. Have fun.
Only two years? Fresh fuel with Techron concentrate, new fuel filter, an oil change and a bath and it should be good to go. (Might want to check how old the tires are too.)
I was going to clean the injectors and replace the o-rings and the fuel lines seemed a bit rotted, fuel filter will def be replaced.
How do I store the tank now that it is empty?
Front brakes needed a rebuild when I originally put it away, so I will sort that along with new front and rear pads.
I need to lube the drive splines, but was also considering lubing the clutch splines as well, although I think I will need the alignment tool to put it back together if I go that far. I am a little concerned about the fact that the clutch slips in first if you give the bike to much throttle when starting out.
There is a small oil leak from under the water pump housing. I was going to sort that. I also noticed some oil residue under the rad cap. I had a dealer replace the water pump shaft a few years ago and wonder if they didn't do a good job. That shouldn't be too hard a job to replace the gaskets and o-rings in there and to flush the radiator out.
My speedo cuts off when it gets too wet out. I read somewhere that there is a mod to fix it. I was going to do a bit of research and see about trying that.
It is getting a new battery and I am going to hit my connectors with di-electric grease to stop any corrosion.
I have some cracked body work and am going to get the new pieces and have all the plastics redone to spruce the look up.
The old Metzlers are gone, so new tires are a must.
I was going to replace the fork seals and add stiffer springs up front with some new fluid. The rear shock is on its way to Works next week for a rebuild and a stiffer spring for two up riding as well.
Everything else is fine and most of the stuff I am looking at is pretty straight forward. The goal is to get the bike finished mid summer so my wife and I can do some fun short tours on it.
Sounds like she's been sitting outdoors for a while.
Drafty old garage...
After you refurbish you K you may consider restoring the garage to protect your hard work.
I'd just leave it with the cap off and fuel level sender out in a dry place.
Have you looked at the old pads? No sense replacing them if they don't need to be.
Cheap the weep hole at the bottom of the bellhousing. If there's motoro oil dripping from there then you've probably had your clutch nut O-ring dry out, leak and foul the clutch plate. If there isn't oil at the weep hole then the clutch plate is worn. Either way you're probably going to need a new clutch plate. The centering tool isn't really necessary. There's several methods to do it without one. 1) Leave the clutch nuts a little loose so there's just enough friction to hold the plate in place 2) use your eyeballs and fingers around the edges to get it reasonably centered 3) don't lube any splines yet 4) remove the pushrod from the transmission 5) put the transmission on and use that as your centering tool - use wiggling the transmission and having it in gear to rotate it until it "finds" the clutch plate splines 6) push the transmission all of the way on 7) pull the transmission STRAIGHT back so as not to disturb the position of thee clutch plate 8) tighten the six clutch bolts 9) try putting the transmission back on to verify that the clutch plate is aligned 10) lube the transmission input splines only, insert the pushrod and install the transmission
I've also heard of people using a pen and wrapping it in electrical tape to make a home-made centering tool.
It's usually best to replace the whole pump assembly. Easy to do.
There's a couple of speedo fix write-ups here:
Depending upon the extent of the damage, cracked panels can be fixed from behind with a fiberglass kit from the auto parts store. Then have your painted fill and sand the outside.
Thanks for the tips Duck. I was hoping you would chime in on some of those. The toughest fix looks to be the clutch, but your tips should make it doable. The dealer supposedly lubed the clutch splines and replaced the clutch plates when the water pump was done, but it was slipping the day I picked it up. The dealer told me that it would stop slipping after a bit. Now with 10k on the clocks since the work, both the water pump is leaking again and the clutch is still slipping. I will never use that shop again and plan on doing my own work from here on out.
I fixed the garage problem by moving to a new home where I have a very nice sealed/non leaking place to keep my bikes and finally set up a proper workshop. Life is definitely better these days!
Now I gotta go remove my gas cap and fuel sensor....thanks again
Perhaps the clutch isn't adjusted properly:
Dielectric grease is not such a great idea; dielectric=insulation.
hmmm...I didn't realize that. I have it on some of the connectors of the 990 to help them with some of the water crossings I do.
You'll be fine, my K1200RS has dielectric grease everywhere, as matter of fact I just redo it all every couple years, helps with the corrosion issues in the connectors. But for anything that is exposed look up "Conformal Coatings", won't wash off unless you use electrical cleaners.
Thanks for the info
My K75 bigger brother ,
My last weekend in AZ on the trusty brick.
This one will be up for sale soon. 88 K75S with 90k miles. pretty good shape, bags are good, corbin seat. Anyone have a good ballpark number of its value?