Anyone else use silver rub n' buff on aluminum?

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by 240sx4u, Jun 14, 2012.

  1. Claytonroy

    Claytonroy Been here awhile

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    I bought some "Silver Leaf" to try out at my local Michael's, but they didn't have the Pewter.

    FYI they often have a "40% off one full priced item" coupon..

    I got mine for $2.69!

    :deal
    #61
  2. Rapid Dog

    Rapid Dog bikes, booze, broads...

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    ...wowsers...thanks for posting this about Rub'n'Buff. never knew about
    this lil product. I'll put some in my armory of FLITZ's, compounds, paints n such.

    Also glad t here about the Vapor thing. Fantastical.
    #62
  3. patanga

    patanga BMWAirheadsDownunder

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    Agreed re the wipe on look. Each to their own though I suppose. To date the best overall results I've had is with wet glass media blasting. I've tried the fine sand and while the result looks good, surfaces tend to show finger prints afterwards from my experience. If the part is going to be painted then I'd say sand is fine as it will provide a better key for the paint to adhere to. Haven't tried walnut media so have no comment to make on that one. Perhaps new dry media material has been developed since I last tried the stuff, but till recently my preference has been for wet blasting. One thing I never blast is carb bodies.

    Agree totally with Mr Farmer regards engine casings. If you have one blasted be sure to flush, flush and flush the oil passages and then flush again. Will more than likely go with ultrasonic clean next time.

    ____________________
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    #63
  4. danedg

    danedg Horizontally Opposed

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    Hardwaregrrl could use a l'il RubNBuff!


    [​IMG]:clap
    #64
  5. Airhead Wrangler

    Airhead Wrangler Long timer

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    Or maybe just a little more torque holding her final drive on. :D

    So does anyone have a magic remedy for removing this rub'n'buff stuff? My /5 has it on the valve covers (I think). They're so hyper silvery that it's obviously not bare aluminum and paint stripper didn't take it off so it doesn't seem to be paint. Is this stuff wax based or what? Maybe some gasoline would take it off? A solvent solution would be preferable, but if media blasting is the only answer, then blasting it shall be.
    #65
  6. danedg

    danedg Horizontally Opposed

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    I only use the stuff on scrungy nuts and bolts, linkages. It seemed to only last a year or so, and then it was back to "brown". I'd never do a whole valve cover or engine case. Brake cleaner takes everything off doesn't it?:1drink
    #66
  7. SculptD

    SculptD Smells like tech

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    Solvents will work.

    I use it a lot, but I don't like the look when it is on full strength. I always go back with mineral spirits and wipe it off to bring the aluminum back and leave just the bare minimum of R & B.
    #67
  8. danedg

    danedg Horizontally Opposed

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    What he said. You rub it on then you buff it off and leave just a tiny bit...
    #68
  9. Airhead Wrangler

    Airhead Wrangler Long timer

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    Alright, then I guess what I have is something else. It certainly doesn't rub off.
    #69
  10. danedg

    danedg Horizontally Opposed

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    I was only referring to those who "slather" it on. The stuff was designed as an "art" medium. As a substitute for real gold or silver gilt on frames and stuff. The tube says it contains wax and I'll bet the rest is an acrylic paint of some sort.
    Try some nail polish remover!:wink:
    #70
  11. DiabloADV

    DiabloADV Semi-Occasional

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    Yeah...RnB comes right off with solvent. It's carnauba wax-based. Yours might be painted.

    I've been using the pewter color -- rub very thin coat on, then scrub the surface with a white scotch brite. Very nice result that looks like natural cast aluminum. The pigment just settles down into the "pores" where you can't scrub off the oxidation. It's not on the high peaks, so the end result doesn't look painted or fake.
    #71
  12. bpeckm

    bpeckm Grin!

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    After doing my nuts, I can't believe how little it took!





    [​IMG]

    Wait, that didn't sound right....:evil Yes, I think putting a very-thin-indeed rub might work, I will have to try it on some other bitsas on the ST. I am wary of making it look too good, though. Patina is good on a 30 year old bike.!
    #72
  13. DiabloADV

    DiabloADV Semi-Occasional

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    This pic is with a flash. It's not actually this shiny. Cleaned with scotch brite and Simple Green. Then pewter R&Buff; finished with white scotch brite.

    [​IMG]



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    #73
  14. Houseoffubar

    Houseoffubar HoFmetalworks.com

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    I used some of the silver on my transmission, and acetone, and lacquer thinner barely touch it
    #74
  15. danedg

    danedg Horizontally Opposed

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    Simple Green is what AMACO recommends to use if you drop a blob of it on your rug or clothing...
    AND a final note NOT to use a solvent as it will disperse the product.
    #75
  16. bgdavid

    bgdavid n00b

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    Used the R&B on some of my basket case pieces. It will continue to smear for a long time, giving an uneven finish.

    Then decided to paint with Universal Aluminum enamel. Mineral spirits and small wire brush took it right off.

    Kinda liking the shine of the paint contrasting with the black bolt heads.

    This bike had been left out in the weather and the paint fills some of the corrosion scars.

    BTW learned a lot from this forum, First Beemer, thanks guy's for the wealth of info :norton
    #76
  17. danedg

    danedg Horizontally Opposed

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    Welcome aboard.
    Now post some pictures of your bike!:D
    #77
  18. bgdavid

    bgdavid n00b

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    Thanks,
    Will do when I can sit still long enough. On the go way too much from work and only get to work on my baby (aka money hole, lol) a day or two a month :( but I lub her...

    ~David
    #78