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Discussion in 'Tejas and the Gulf States' started by Elvis70, Mar 27, 2009.
She's looking for her tits.
You know we would all help her find them!
BS! We'd all be tripping over them! :huh
I need clutch advice.
I replaced the aftermarket clutch perch and lever with an OEM clutch perch and lever because I keep breaking clutch cables. The clutch was working perfectly but it is at a slight angle which may contribute to stress on the cable.
When doing this I used the same cable that was on the aftermarket perch (and working) but after the replacement, the clutch actuator won't disengage the gearing.
I thought the clutch plates were wet locked so I lowered the bike and started it in neutral and pulled the clutch lever in and clicked it into gear and the bike died.
I did this three times and adjusted the lever from loose to tight and got the same result. Figuring that there was slightly better pull on the after market perch I put it back on and got the same result.
The manual states the the clutch actuator post should be rotated counter clockwise toward the engaged position (towards the center of the motor). It is positioned as indicated.
What am I missing here? The only other thing I can think of is the clutch actuator fork has somehow become fouled up. Thoughts?
Hve you checked the stator?
Yes it could now who do we know that knows Stator's
Is the clutch hard to pull at the handlebar lever? Or, is it very easy to pull it in?
It was probably the guy that tighten the bolts holding the cable guide when the cable broke on the trail. Everyone knows how those engineers can screw up anything they touch.
charlie, was your basket in good shape when you replaced the frictions and steels? ( the fingers smooth, no notches, or burrs?)
ive done alot of adjusting on the dr350 clutch too,( broken a few perches, and handles...) and its a very precise thing to get it right in the 'zone' where it will engage and hold, and disengage and release.
Nah, that works fine. The engineer knew his stuff.
Didn't replace the internals just the clutch perch the engine only has about 2800 miles on it now.
that right fresh replacement engine... I forgot that.
its just tight man.
rock it back and forth, get it into neutral, crank it, let the engine and oil warm up, kill it, and then try adjusting the cable.
It's got some resistance as it should. The manual says 2-3 mm of pull where the clutch actuator lever attaches to the cable and that checks out too.
Okay. Was wondering if you have a tight curve/bend in the cable routing under the tank or somewhere that was increasing the load on the cable.
Is the end of the cable pulling off... or the cable itself breaking? If breaking, is it breaking near the handlebar lever... or down at the actuating arm at the cases?
Were the ones breaking OEM cables?
Breaking at the lever. The aftermarket lever was at a strange angle.
OEM cables and aftermarket cables.
probably time to take that clutch cover off for a look then Charlie.
should be able to save the gasket if you are careful, or even better if mama zuki has gone to an O ring there.....
I'm going to try to disengage it again tomorrow. When I tried to break it loose this evening I didn't have enough weight on the rear tire. I gotta think it is wet locked.