I forgot how much fun surfing is. And the waves here are great. I surfed both Mal Pais and Santa Teresa. Both days were 6 feet plus. The faces were 10 feet. I got some very memorable rides. But the one that I will remember most was the wave that took me for a ride. I was paddling back out after riding a wave and a big set came in. The first wave held me under the water for quite a while and took my breath away. And then I came up for air and there was an even bigger wave just about to break on me. I paddled hard to get over the top of the wave but it was more powerful than I thought. The wave lifted me up and pitched me over the falls. I could feel my body free falling down the face of the wave. Then I could feel the water water thrashing my body around under water at the bottom. Then, it was like I was in a washing machine, and the wave was still not done with me. It picked me back up again and threw me down again, this time slamming my body against the bottom of the ocean. It held me there for a bit. I was completely out of breath at that point and needed some air. When you are under water, you don't know which way is up. But since I was on the bottom, I pushed up with my legs and made my way to the surface for some air. Fortunately, the wave set was over and I was able to paddle back out for more.