Ask Woody About Your Wheels

Discussion in 'Vendors' started by woody's wheel works, Jun 17, 2006.

  1. woody's wheel works

    woody's wheel works Built to Last

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    hallo johan!!!
    just checked your thread and looked at the pics,,,outside of the aesthetics of seeing threads you hav eno worries as to strength or wheel coming apart.

    FYI: the rule of thumb is you minimally want to have the usable minimum thread length be equal to the OD of the threads....which is why the height of a nut is normally equivalent to the OD of the bolt/screw:deal

    i'll check with Zach to see what lengths he sent ya... when we Superlace our wheels we countersink the rims to achieve a perfect seat and accurate direction for the nipples,,,allowing the nipple to go in a lil bit further,,,if you look at BMW and KTM wheels the majority of them all have even more thread showing....FYI,,it certainly makes wheel lacing easier and quicker....not to mention minimizing the possibilities of scratching the rim

    let me know what you'd like to do

    skol:freaky
    woody
  2. MZcountryboy

    MZcountryboy Long timer

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    5,468
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    Northeast Kingdom, Vermont USA (close to Canada!)
    Looking to get a quote on some wheels for my X-challenge - 18/21 size, new hubs, blingtacular blue finish, excels, and super tough lacing.

    Thanks -

    Scott
  3. 1WD

    1WD KTM Tragic

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2007
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    815
    Location:
    Adelaide, South Australia
    G'day Woody,
    You guys built some wheels for me a few years ago. I've probably put about 10,000km on them, I've noticed a crack next to one of the nipples on the rim.
    In a recent post you mention that you countersink the nipples when you superlace, reckon that would have contributed to this? (see pics)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  4. tsiklonaut

    tsiklonaut the (in)famous boxer perv

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    Hi Woody,

    Don't know if it's been asked before, can't find any info, but can you fit R100/80GS 21" front 18" rear tubeless rims into R1100GS hubs to make true tubeless 21"/18" wheels for R1100GS??? (I don't want any superlace etc superstrong wheels, I need a true tubeless 21"/18" solution)

    If yes, how much it'd cost to make 'em if I send you the R1100 hubs and R80/100 rims?

    PS: Provided it's possible to make 'em, do you also anodize rims? (My original 19"/17" are anodized and they are a joy to clean and maintain, but I know the older (Akront?) GS rims are bastards in those terms since they corrode, so wondering if separately anadozing the rims is a solution for it)

    TIA,
    Margus
    (visited and used your nice workshop in 2009 during our RTW, but you were in Europe then, we even got 2 of those famous t-shirts :evil )
  5. woody's wheel works

    woody's wheel works Built to Last

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    They only sell blue rims from excel in 2.15x18 rear (2.5x18 is stock), so for the rims to match we would have to use silver excel's and re-anodize them blue.

    If you were to send in your hubs and we laced new blue excel rims in stock sizes it would breakdown like this.

    Front 21 x 1.6 silver excel-138 (blue is 166) or 75 per rim to re-anodize to match
    Rear 18 x 2.5 silver excel-166 (blue 2.15x18 is 190)
    Stainless spokes/nipples-135x2=270
    Superlace/true-111x2=222
    New oem hubs are 325 ea.

    It would be $946 to re-build your hubs with stock size blue rims. $1596 if you want a whole new set.

    IF you have any questions, don't hesitate to contact us.

    thanks zach and the crew.\

    PS,,and don't forget you get a www T-shirt or hat tossed into the deal.
  6. woody's wheel works

    woody's wheel works Built to Last

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    Hi margus,

    We can build up the wheels with the tubeless rims.

    The front 21'' is no problem, it would be 200 for spokes and 150 for labor, if the rim is straight.

    The rear r100gs is a 17'' but the R100R front uses a 2.5x18. There is no oem spokes that will work so we would need to use aftermarket Stainless spokes/nipples. WE do have to re-drill the rim/hub to make the spokes/nipples point in the right direction. The front 2.5x18 rims are drilled for the smaller hubs. It would be 200 for labor, and 200 for the spoke kit.

    We can anodize or powder-coat the rims.. If it's been dinged up or oxidized it would be best to powder-coat the rims to cover the finish. Otherwise if we anodized the rims it would show all the corrosion on them.. It's 65 per rim to powder-coat most colors.

    If you have any other questions, you can email us at woodyswheelworks@gmail.com

    thanks zach and the crew
  7. theturtleshead

    theturtleshead Tits on a fish

    Joined:
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    Medellin Colombia ain,t nowhere better
    Hey Woody!
    Just bought a 1977 Commando 850 mklll down here in Colombia
    What size and width of rims would you recommend for a good handling Commando!
    I,d prefer handling than an original bike-I will be upgrading suspension and brakes!
    Better that way here what with the drivers and the road conditions!
    Cheers Al
  8. woody's wheel works

    woody's wheel works Built to Last

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    hi al,,,

    for all you Commando-philes ,,we 've done dozens of these upgrades especially the road racing crowd...

    the most common conversion was a 2.15x18 front and 2.5x18 rear

    get rid of the chrome plated discs by switching to better ones or having the discs turned/re-surfaced just enough to get rid of the chrome [circa $30 ea],,,plain cast discs work really well,,however are prone to rusting,,,,the rust of course will build up on the brake pads,,,which of course can easily be removed with a little 320 grit regular or wet/dry sand-paper

    holler when you are ready
  9. woody's wheel works

    woody's wheel works Built to Last

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    !
  10. 1WD

    1WD KTM Tragic

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    815
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    Adelaide, South Australia
    That's a great goodwill gesture mate!
    I'll endeavor to dig up my original invoice as requested.
    You'd also be pretty close to the 3 year mark on the build, I reckon it was January '09 when I bought them.

    Cheers,
    Aaron.
  11. FlyingFinn

    FlyingFinn Long timer

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    Thanks Woody & Zack!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    --
    Mikko
  12. pavegel

    pavegel Adventurer Douche

    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2004
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    Tucson, AZ
    Hi Woody,

    I am thinking about building my own set of wheels for my 950 Adv. Starting with the rear, I'm looking at going with an silver Excell 3.5x18 plus spokes. I would like to have you guys build these, but I really need to save $. Plus I have the tools and knowledge to do this on my own. Do you redrill all of your rims, or just the ones for oversized spokes?

    Thanks
  13. woody's wheel works

    woody's wheel works Built to Last

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    a smoking deal is getting a Superlace kit,,,
    a,,,rim silver excel=$236
    b,,, drilled/countersunk/re-angled for Superlace patterns = $30,,,,plus
    c,,,optimally sized spoke/nipple kit = $135[ss n ss] or $115 [ss n zartan/nickel platted steel nipples]
    d,,,plus S&H circa $15-25
    e,,,and if ya screw up,,ya have a parachute:wink:

    =awesome deal:deal

    holler,
    :freaky
    woody
  14. fudgypup

    fudgypup Banned

    Joined:
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    2,199
    What mine looks like right now. Can't wait to get it back from Woody's! :clap
  15. angrywhiteguy

    angrywhiteguy i wanna ride!

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    Hey Woody,

    Any sign of those double sig Excel rims factory black yet....I'm getting anxious for my wheels for my F 800 GS.... 18/21.
  16. woody's wheel works

    woody's wheel works Built to Last

    Joined:
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    sorry,,,the importer is clueless,and will give me a heads -up after checking again:cry:cry
    w
  17. woody's wheel works

    woody's wheel works Built to Last

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    here's a request for info on the matter,,,via an e-mail from PS:

    ''I noticed there is a potential long term problem with the spokes on the new Yamaha SuperTenere and wondered if you had any ideas. I don't believe I will be affected, but some on the ST forum who use their bikes extensively and roughly off-road are breaking spokes frequently. It doesn't seem normal. I've thought about it and it seems that the nipples are backing off, allowing too much spoke flex and resulting spoke fatigue. My theory is that because the nipples are at the hub, they experience a lot more flexing than if they were at the rim. I'm sure spokes stretch and compress under load and it seems that combined with drive torque at the hub, the nipples and spokes would loosen/fatigue at a higher rate.

    My thought would be to use a longer spoke combined with some sort of seating washer (perhaps conical or round to allow radial movement) at the hub combined with a nylok nut to retain tightness of the spoke. On the forum they've come up with bandaids such as LocTite (not an answer, in my opinion) and simple zip tying the spokes to keep them from damaging other parts of the bike when the spokes fail. Neither of those address the basic problem.

    Maybe you could come up with some ideas. If my solution is something you could develop, feel free.

    Thanks,PS''

    BWOE: here's a pic of parts on bmw style X-laced tubeless wheel

    FYI the set screw is screwed into the end of the nipple like a jam nut after everything is trued n toqrued down properly..so we made new beefy ss spokes AND ss nipples ,,they look gorgeous,,and then jammed with a zinc plated set/grub screw.....the new ss nipple is long enough so that no threads will be exposed like the shlock oem rendition:deal
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  18. dendrophobe

    dendrophobe Motorbike Junky

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    Blacksburg, VA
    I keep checking this thread every couple days, hoping. I won't see them until April anyway, I guess I'm just anxious to give you my money! :lol3
  19. angrywhiteguy

    angrywhiteguy i wanna ride!

    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2010
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    left coast of Canda
    Me too....I want my new wheels!!!
  20. Aarono2

    Aarono2 Adventurer

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    May 13, 2011
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    Lake Arrowhead
    Hey,

    What would it cost me to get my 2000 KLR650 rear rim remade with a black 18" CACR in whatever width you recommend? Would new spokes be needed? Cheers