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Discussion in 'The Garage' started by KTM640Dakar, Mar 5, 2007.
Hobart is Millers cheap line . They bought that name while back.
I found the answer to my question over at the Ask Andy Forum at Miller Motorsports. Turns out that even the "non-weldable" alloys are OK for practice. They weld pretty much the same as weldable alloys just that the weld is susceptible to cracking a failing after the weld.
Great forum by the way. A ton of information.
No, the oil in the frame will be OK. The welds that the tower require are small and should not burn the oil.
Make sure you measure twice and tack once. Unless you like using a grinder,
If I'm mig welding some body work on a car and I disconnect the battery, the electrical system is safe right?
What we have here is the underside of a Guzzi Ambo tank. This shot is of the fairly flat bottom of the forward lobe. To date, there are no less than 10 holes. This is something of a beater bike, so concourse restoration isn't required. So what's the best solution?
My idea is to have my brother-in-law who is handy with an English (or maybe Sweedish?) wheel make up a plate to weld over the entire area, roughly the green outline.
Is there a better way?
Keep a good, CLEAN, ground and keep it as close to the electrode as possible. That's always worked for me.
If you have any doubts, get a service manual for the vehicle and follow thier procedures.
My thought would be to cut out the bigger holes and make a patch that can be slipped inside and attached to the outside using a series of overlapping tack welds or brazing rod. After welding, just grind it smooth and shape with body putty. The smaller holes can be brazed or tack welded shut. The key is to grind back to fresh metal.
Make the holes rectangular in shape so you can put an oversized patch inside and use a strong magnet to hold the patch in place while you weld it. You'll have to tack around the perimeter first so that the patch doesn't warp and pull away from the tank.
+1 on cutting back to sound metal and patching. Covering over with a doubler plate will just create a worsening corrosion situation between the old and new surfaces.
The old analogy of rust as cancer has some truth. ALways better to remove the rust, then patch up.
Thanks for the info guys...very helpful. I went and saw my brother-in-law and agreed that some cutting and patching would be the best. We're gonna try to simply fill the holes first by building up some welds and grinding, he says it's worth a shot. If'n it don't work, then we cut and patch.
I got it down to bare metal and now there are now no less than 20 holes! I then went into the holes with a pointed Dremel grinding bit to remove the thining cancerous areas. Needless to say that there are probably untold numbers of other holes waiting to happen. I'm getting some Red Kote to finish off the job. Here's some updated photos.
Keep us posted Tank repair is an art,
How 'bout a Fuel Tank Repair thread?
I've got a similar thread In "Old School" under "F'd Guzzi tank. Your thoughts." that I'll follow up on as I progress, unless I need some more welding advice. This is my first serious tank refurbishing so this is your chance to watch a rookie in action!
anybody out there with dillon/henrob/cobra welding skills or knowledge?
I'm there. And I must say that for a rookie you picked a heckuva debut project
But was this question answered? I'm in this boat... obt
I have a Lincoln 110 at home and a Hobart here at work, I prefer the Lincoln. No, KTM640Dakar didn't pay me to say that
Has anyone ever had flashburn? I did, only once, it sucked
I got to demo a Lincoln Invertec V205 today, nice machine. Seemed to have less arc wander than my Syncro 180, one day I may have to add one of these inverter technology machines.
Try to find some 304 stainless sheet and make a patch panel out of it. That way you will only have to do it once and it won't rust.
Some good mig welders could spot tack over the holes then grind away the excess. This is probably the hardest way to fix it but it would be the least damaging.
Check this out. This is the perfect shop setup. It makes deciding what to buy easier since you get it all.
Somebody say they needed .017, 304 sheet for a Guzzi ressurection?