Ask your WELDING questions here.

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by KTM640Dakar, Mar 5, 2007.

  1. David R

    David R I been called a Nut Job..

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    I have been tig welding for a long time and never got those.

    It looks like your tig weld was completed then the spiders stopped by. The first picture also looks like you are using a contaminated tungsten. ONE dunk and it gets changed. If the arc is a different color than usual, replace the tungsten or regrind it.

    The first weld could look better in general. It looks to me like the piece was dirty or your filler was or you dunked and kept on going. The second weld looks better.

    10Lpm is plenty of flow for carbon steel. I use about 5-7 litres per minute.

    1 Lpm = .478 CFH SO 7 lpm is about 15 CFH.

    Just my two cents.

    David
  2. clintnz

    clintnz Trans-Global Chook Chaser

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    Thanks mate! The work was fairly clean but I have been known to dunk the odd electrode :D I will get more fussy on changing tungstens. Will knock back the gas flow a tad too & save some argon.

    Cheers
    Clint
  3. fxstbiluigi

    fxstbiluigi crash test dummy

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    In the second pic. take a file and knock down that lil "tit" sticken up there where you finished. If there is nothing under it you pulled out too fast. To dry up the puddle gradually raise the tungsten and you can see the puddle solidify, then break the arc and maintain gas coverage. If it is solid metal you added too much fill wire. There is also some undercut on the top side which would indicate too much amperage or possibly the need for a larger fill wire. the size of the weld (width) coming out of the joint from the right (as seen in the pic) would also indicate too much amperage.
  4. David R

    David R I been called a Nut Job..

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    Undercutting can also be caused by contaminated tungsten. I keep spares ready.

    [​IMG]
    I consider myself as a professional tungsten dinner. Edit: DUNKER

    These are what I am building. 10 for this order.
    [​IMG]

    Sent from the phone in my shoe. Maxwell Smart.
  5. clintnz

    clintnz Trans-Global Chook Chaser

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    Cheers guys, I will do some tit investigation when next in the shed :evil I suspect they are solid. I have been using a foot pedal & I have down slope adjustment so I'll try tailing off the power more slowly.

    I really should be practising the basics more on nice easy flat stuff before attempting all the changing join angles & section thicknesses on these fiddly lil bits of tube & bush, but the racks needed doing & are now ready for the weekends ride :clap My next major bike project with the TIG will be a 3mm alu bash plate which will have lots of nice straight downhand runs for me to get dialled in on.

    Clint
  6. fxstbiluigi

    fxstbiluigi crash test dummy

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    practicing flat will help get the basics down, and it appears that you have that, but practicing flat will do nothing for the constantly changing angles that are encountered in making a joint as pictured in your previous post.
  7. Danjal

    Danjal Insert wit here.

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    Here's a good one.

    Welding aluminum with a mig. Can I just swap liners and take off? Do I need shorter leads? Spoolgun? Push pull? The two boxes I'm looking at are a Lincoln 256 and a fabricator 252I. Thoughts on the welders too. The dc tig does nothing for me in the long run. I'd rather have an ac tig for aluminum.
  8. larryboy

    larryboy Chopper Rider

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    Do a spool gun, push. It's much nicer to have a machine ready to do steel or aluminum without switching things around.
  9. Danjal

    Danjal Insert wit here.

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    Noted. If I ran a shop I'd have dedicated machines for each type. But,I don't,so 2k is kinda costly for a second box.
  10. larryboy

    larryboy Chopper Rider

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  11. Danjal

    Danjal Insert wit here.

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    Yes,it's an invertor machine too. It's only a dc box though,so unless you're migging aluminum is out on the tig. I've done my research and the reviews are good on it. Tested it's little brother the 181,and it's good too. The 252 gives a gas solenoid where the 181 and 211 are manual gas machines. All in all the Linc seems better built,has more parts support,but weighs 200 some pounds and is a transformer type. Lacks a few controls and adjustments,and no tig/stick,but I want a mig and ac tig. I can't go wrong with either for just a mig.
  12. kirkster70

    kirkster70 moto junkie

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    Hiya Clint,

    I've never had that spidering, either, but from the look of the metal surrounding the area, it's contamination of some sort.

    One thing I HAVE had happen in my short TIG career is to run the Argon bottle all the way down to empty and start getting poor results. The regulator is showing the proper flow, but I've noticed that as soon as I swap tanks, the problem is solved.

    So, just something else to think about if getting poor results after doing everything else correctly.

    Keep up the good work, my friend!

    :clap



  13. GordonH

    GordonH Adventurer

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    Recently looked at a Hobart mig with 240v input voltage. Specs say it draws 20. something amps, but has a 50 amp cord on it. Am I missing something on the spec sheet? I need to run a 240v circuit in the garage and depending on which brand I choose I want to do it correctly and only once. Do the popular brands have internal fuses/breakers that will trip at the right overcurrent for the unit? I know that if I install a 50 amp outlet I have to run 50 amp wire and have a 50 amp breaker, not a 30. Any ideas.

    Gordon
  14. Danjal

    Danjal Insert wit here.

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    If you're going to run the wires anyway why not just overkill it with 50a?
  15. GordonH

    GordonH Adventurer

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    I don't have a problem with running the 50a. wire, I'm more concerned with protecting the welding unit itself. If it's only drawing 20 or so amps, in the event of a problem internally where it is pulling more than that, I want the breaker either on the unit if it has one, or the one in the panel to trip before damage is done to the unit itself.

    Gordon
  16. JAFO

    JAFO displaced Jeep guy.....

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    Anything worth that much money that doesn't have onboard overcurrent protection doesn't belong in your shop, period.

    Sent from my MB886 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2
  17. David R

    David R I been called a Nut Job..

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    Read the manual. It will have a breaker size listed.

    Sent from the phone in my shoe. Maxwell Smart.
  18. GordonH

    GordonH Adventurer

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    I'm trying to get the outlet done before I buy a unit. Do you know of any websites that have the manuals? My bing-fu is lacking.

    Gordon
  19. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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    Gordon:
    You're looking at this wrong. My 60 watt table lamp runs fine even though it's plugged into a 20 amp outlet. Anything you plug in is only using the amps it needs. All that matters is getting the 120/240 correct. Run the circuit with enough amps to run any welder so you can upgrade later if you choose.
  20. GordonH

    GordonH Adventurer

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    I've seen the results of equipment that was over fused. Not very pretty and really dangerous. My query is to why the manufacturer states a 20a. input and yet puts a 50a cord on it. I've been searching the NEC and I'm coming closer to an understanding as to why they do this. Duty cycle, max input amps and other magic. If I find an answer and can explain it without taking a night class in EE I'll put it up. Suffice to say I'll install the feed to the manufacturers specs. Looks like I'll be buying the unit first. Now the hard part begins.

    Gordon