Ask your WELDING questions here.

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by KTM640Dakar, Mar 5, 2007.

  1. GordonH

    GordonH Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2011
    Oddometer:
    98
    Location:
    Novi, MI
    Bought a Lincoln Power Mig 180c. Put in a dedicated (tapped off of the panel feed) 40amp fused panel/box with the outlet mounted underneath. Hooked everything up on the welder as per the directions and ran my first successful bead on some 1/4 inch scrap steel. It looks like I'm going to enjoy this tool.
    Thanks all.


    Gordon
    p.s. KTM640Dakar. I owe you a beer when I see you. Are you going to Stockbridge in May?
  2. Pike Bishop

    Pike Bishop Pull Down the Ponzi.

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    nec 630
  3. Pike Bishop

    Pike Bishop Pull Down the Ponzi.

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    Get real. Even the cheapo Chinese $50 specials autodark in 1/25,000 of a second.

    I have used a lot of autodark shields (including the $50 jobbie above) and have never been flashed because it "can't change fast enough."

    The only autodark shields that have flashed me were the more expensive ones...either because they automatically switched off and I didn't know it (the $50 solar-powered ones NEVER switch off, and have no battery to die) or because they were in the wrong mode (grind, for example) or because they were malfunctioning. (Oh, and the cheapos never malfunctioned...the only reason I abandoned them is because they have non-standard, non-replaceable headgear.)

    I should also add that unless I'm doing a lot of tacking where I don't want stray arc strikes, I went back to non-autodark shields because I can see through them a lot better than even a top-of-the-line Miller autodark. (Though "X-Mode" on the Miller Digital Elite is sweet for low-amperage tigging...)
  4. xcflyn

    xcflyn Long timer

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    How long have you been welding ?
    It does make a difference, some guys who have been at it for 20 -30 years + will not switch ,"even if they did try it for one single day". My mentor would never use one (and he could weld !), about the time they became popular I asked him why he didnt swap over: said he tried one but was just not comfortable with one, too many years of "flipping the lid". I personally didnt own one until about 7 years ago, same thing, over 20 years of standard hoods had been working fine. I always wear safety glasses and never take the time to dick around switching shade to grind.
    There is still a concern that regardless of how fast they are, they are not on before the arc is struck but actually after, and that you do subject your eyes to the flash you just do not know it ? I cant speak for that, 30+ years now of welding and my eyes are getting bad. I think the arc flash from others around you welding and for me getting shit drilled out of my eyes has done more damage then a auto would do in 100 years of use.
    I will point out one big negative for the auto dark- if you weld with a team on big assemblies - your helmet is always flickering on and off between welds from the other guys around you, there are times it would be nice to have it just stay on. Thats my thought of the morning . As always everyone has their own opinion.:*sip*
  5. NitroAcres

    NitroAcres MotoBiggots Suck

    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2010
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    A ChickenHouse in NorthGeorgia
    Good ones have sensitivity setting that allow for it to "Stay Dark", with even a small amount of bright light, one of my shops bright florescent lights activates one of my helmets so I have to set it higher so it won't go dark as quickly..

    Side note, the SpeedGlas helmets are protective for UV rays to equivalent of shade 16 even when not activated. (I don't know about any other brands).

    Oh and My CONTACTS are UV Protectant Also...:)
  6. GordonH

    GordonH Adventurer

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    Yep. That's what I found too.

    Gordon
  7. fxstbiluigi

    fxstbiluigi Long timer

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  8. David R

    David R I been called a Nut Job..

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    Hamlin NY
    I am trying to convince no one.

    The adjustable shade makes me a better welder. If you can't see it you can't weld it. If I can see it better? :D One helmet for light tig, pulsed spray or stick indoors or outdoors. I use a different helmet for gouging because I don't want to trash my good one. Its also AD.

    Changing rods width out flipping the hood up and knowing where to start are much more convenient.

    To each his own. We don't have to agree.

    I started welding before the AD helmets were out. Then I bought an electronic lens that went in my regular helmet. It was small and did not
    always work right. It ate AAA batteries. Still with it small window and adjustable shade I liked it better than a fixed lens.

    An electronic lens makes it easier to weld out of position or when I am in an odd position.

    GordonH lets see some welds from the new setup.

    David
  9. fxstbiluigi

    fxstbiluigi Long timer

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    :baldy:baldy:baldy:baldy...............:turkish
  10. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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  11. NitroAcres

    NitroAcres MotoBiggots Suck

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    I guess it really depends on what TYPE of welding you do, if you do heavy stuff and alot of stick, or some boat trailers, or wrought iron gates or I dunno Shipyard stuff it won't do anything...or you are like Helen Keller and can weld in braile, then you are good.

    However, if you are doing machined parts, Like medical stuff, food grade stainless or Aircraft parts that where you start matters and you ain't guessing at it, or if you do alot of start and stop on the same part in a fixture, then Yep it Matters alot, and saves time and makes me money.
    :kboom

    :gun1
    Pass me the Butter pleeze

    :lol3
  12. fxstbiluigi

    fxstbiluigi Long timer

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    Are you buying the hoods for your hired hands or are you the only one there?
  13. sakurama

    sakurama on an endless build

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  14. Pike Bishop

    Pike Bishop Pull Down the Ponzi.

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    I also don't trust autodark hoods yet. Notice how they don't have any kind of OSHA standards or approvals attached to them yet?
  15. battlecattle

    battlecattle Been here awhile

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    Each lens has its place. I prefer my auto darkening 90% of the time but I never go anywhere without a good old #10 and a gold plated one.
  16. NitroAcres

    NitroAcres MotoBiggots Suck

    Joined:
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    I work alone, I own 3 auto hoods right now, and have bought two or three for good welder friends over the years...as gifts.
    Like I said, mine make me money, they help out, even when I was doing work on drag cars, you could be under the car or welding in a cage, and in a tight area where you couldn't "flip a hood"..and still see what you were doing.

    Different Opinions, That's what makes life interesting.
  17. KTM640Dakar

    KTM640Dakar Motorsick

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    [​IMG]

    My current lid. Mojo, it's a Viking 3350.
  18. slackmeyer

    slackmeyer Don't mean sheeit. .

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2007
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    4,017
    Location:
    Berzerkeley, CA
    Newb question here:
    A friend was moving, and gave me an older Lincoln buzzbox (A-225S, I think the model is), and a big (open) box of 7018 electrode, probably open in a humid climate for the last 15-20 years. I think it works, though I'm still waiting for the local utility to give me a new service drop so I have 220v at my house.
    Anyway, I've never stick welded before, though I've done a bit of some other types (mig and tig, and a fair amount of gas welding). This seems like a decent enough welder to play around on and make some functional stuff. If it doesn't work for me, I'll try to trade it for a mid size wire feed welder. My hope is that I can dry the welding rod just before I use it with a light bulb/ cardboard or wood box arrangement.
    Any comments, either about the rod, the welder, or whether an old simple stick machine is a good all-purpose tool these days?
  19. David R

    David R I been called a Nut Job..

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    Perhaps you could just buy a few pounds of 6013, 6011 or 7014. All are AC rod and for all position.

    Baking the 7018 will dry it out but its still a DC rod.

    If you have dirty metal, clean it. :D

    David
  20. clintnz

    clintnz Trans-Global Chook Chaser

    Joined:
    May 17, 2004
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    4,320
    Location:
    Rotoiti, North Is, New Zealand
    I want to TIG weld a 4" dia bit of stainless steel tube to a mild steel collar, what filler should I use, stainless, ER70S2 or ? (assuming '?' is likely to be available at the local engineering supplies store)

    [​IMG]

    I have machined a recess in the ring so the tube fits in snugly & will be able to weld the inside end as well as put a fillet on the outside. Any other tips on welding SS to plain steel appreciated.

    This is the start of the exhaust pipe for the ginormous turbo a mate is busy bolting to the side of the 1JZ Toyota motor in his race jetboat. The ring still needs to be machined down a bit a fit the v-band that will clamp it on the hairdryer. We will probably be adding a support brace for the tube so it can't flex & crack at this join.

    Cheers
    Clint