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Discussion in 'The Garage' started by KTM640Dakar, Mar 5, 2007.
I got 25 welders on staff, all on Lincoln equipment - great stuff
Almost all of my welding machines are red. I still look through a Miller helmet. I have a Lincoln Vista as a back up.
Anybody ever used this helmet? 3 sensors, TIG rated down to 5 amps, solar charging AND a backup battery, for $112. The delay is 1/15000, but I think that will work just fine, and I the manual on/off doesn't bother me. It just becomes part of my welder/bottle on/off procedure.
The NI helmet is the other major contender, thanks Stan!
if your going to be welding a decent amount for the foreseeable future you might as well pony up the extra 200 or so bucks from the hundred you want to spend now and get a real welding helmet. I have had my Jackson safety 3n1 for a little over 10 years now and it shows no signs of stopping and it has not led the nicest life. best part is you can grind/torch/weld all with one helmet and the push of a button.
the flip up in your second post is ok but its no Jackson or high end miller and it still don't have the torch setting.
For TIG I prefer a huntsman fiber hood with a non auto large lens. I'm possibly the only person on this forum that prefers a non auto hood, but It works for me. I like auto helmets for MIG but as I've aged and progressed to wearing bifocal glasses I have had problems seeing when TIG welding. I've tried the insert readers and they help, but when I dug out my old huntsman it was so much easier to see with that huge 4" x5"" lens. Much easier than trying to juggle a pair of readers and a pair of bifocals in the shop.
Me too. Love the large viewing area and I'm just so used to flipping the hood down with a nod of my head that it feels odd not to do it.
Like most, I started with a non-auto hood, and will NEVER do that again. I gave my last one away.
I have no need for a torch setting, and HATE grinding with a helmet on, goggles only for that kinda stuff.
I'm thinking about stepping up to around the $200 range, but no more. I weld fairly frequently (a few times a week usually) but don't have the $ for a more expensive helmet.
I have 2 interviews/welding tests coming up next week, one at my current employer, and one at another place. I'll be taking my Forney in as my work helmet, and spending a bit more for my at-home helmet. I suppose if the new position pays well enough, I may drop $300 on a helmet as a congratulations to myself, otherwise, less than $200 is a must.
I hate auto hoods. Last time I used one was for a 6G stainless test in June. Hadn't used one in a few years before that, I made one tack then went back to manual.
Shade 11, glass filler plate. No auto ever built is that clear and reliable.
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I wear a mid-line Hobart adjustable every day.
One of my guys at work got the Kobalt for $99 with the graphics. I'm impressed for the dollar. However my next hood will be a 3M Speedglas
Titanium- who's welded it. Who's machined it? I need some info on both. I've heard it'll ignite when welded and burn,and it eats carbide up. Looking for someone that has experience with it.
The older ones sucked and flashed you unless you blinked on start.then your eyes had to adjust for lighting and focus. The new ones are tons better than the old.
I have a Lincoln Viking. It works pretty good,nice and clear when shaded and not.
This is a cheaper Lincoln brand. Might be as good. Haven't seen it yet in person.
Won't burn, that is Mg.
I weld it several times a year, and machine/fab parts for myself from Ti.
Different types machine better than others..some of it will kill a cutter in a matter of seconds.
What are you doing?
The Aluminium subframe on my poor husky has been broken a FEW times, gussetted and strengthened in one place it breaks in another.
So now I've busted out the battery tray, and I want to try and repair it myself since it hasn't been 'pretty for a long time :) I figure I should be able to do it 'good enuf' to get by until I can get a decent tig setup. I'm using a 110v hobart now, with no spoolgun so any tips on what wire I should use? Most of what I am doing is 1/16 max.
Being cheap, and since I only have all of about 1.5" to weld total, Can I get by with using the c25 I already have or do I absolutely have to have argon?
Also, I'm wondering if it's possible to re-heat treat the whole thing when done? (how?) I'm not sure how important that really is since the welds in general have held.
It won't easily burn as bulk material but the shavings will burn like Mg, we have had Ti fires in our shop.
If you are going to weld aluminum with a 110 mig and no spool gun what you need are patients of a saint!
Welding aluminum like that is like "Playing pool with a rope" (a quote of my dad not about welding)
It can be done. They make a teflon liner for your mig gun and use 5356 wire because its stiffer than pure 4043.
Perhaps a little help from the folks on the Hobart site.
Yes you need PURE Argon.
Best of luck. Show us how it comes out, pics and all!
Lol. I was afraid that would be the case. I might pay a guy 100 to do it a third time...
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We do everything with it here. What do you want to do with it?
Machining chips can be flammable, but mostly as grinding swarf. Use the correct speed and feed and get inserts designed for the proper Ti alloy.
Receivers out of tubing and bolts out of round stock. I need to make and weld 2 nuts on it to hold a top picatinny rail. The tube is 6-4 IIRC. ..060". I'll get the actual specs later if it's that important.
Learn something new everyday, welded a lot of it, machined a fair share of it and never had it catch fire...also see a ton of exhaust made from it, glow red and not ignite.
Thanks for the heads up, I will now separate out the Ti swarf off the lathe..(I have always just separated the Mg chips and grinding dust.)
FYI, iron and aluminum powder will burn also. They are not extremely easy to ignite, much like titanium. I think all metals can burn (but would need to reference the chemistry book on that one). Some are just easier to ignite as a powder.