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Discussion in 'Land of the Rising Sun: ADV Bikes from Japan' started by glitch_oz, Jul 26, 2007.
I am going to poop when this bike is finished.
Projects like this make me much more interested in the Strom
May I suggest you see your quack along the way then?
You'll be "FULL OF IT" wayyyy before that bike's finished
Looks like you're not alone...I'm stumped by the number of hits!! :huh :huh
Just looking back overr the last few pics, I realized that it's pretty hard to imagine a finished product out of this mess....The rear was torn out again (as the subframe/ pannier racks are at the powdercoaters), the front is a duct-tape collection of chopped up bits...thanks for hanging with me through this phase, where work's getting done at both ends and it's all looking totally chaotic with no hope to ever get anywhere....
...I'm so used to the sight of it everytime the garage door goes up, don't even think about what it'd look like to anybody else.
No sweat...it'll come together.
After the subframe comes back, it's on to getting everything prepped for the exhaust guy to do his magic pipework.
With that out of the way, things will start to flow, making bits for both ends simultaneously, changing wiring etc.
Love the thread. Have been wanting to do something exactly like this myself. Bad timing for me. Currently in job and housing transition. How much did it cost at auction if you don't mind me asking?
Don't know where you are...but here in AUS a "bent" DL650 is hard to get onto...and expensive compared with other bikes or even the DL1000.
The reason, both previous bikes turned out to be DLK's...
Due to the prices, I let 2 bikes go over a period of about a year...then this one came around at ~2400.
Not to forget, that it'll take ~1400 for all the legally required paperwork prior to re-registration and registration itself (incl. compulsory 3.part insurance for 12 months).
So, we're already at 3800+ before even starting any repairs or mods.
In the end it'll finish up probably very near the price of a comparable "standard"-bike of that vintage/ mileage....bought privately.
The front fairing bracket
.a WHOPPER at nearly 2.5kg. :looney:
Rear subframe and pannier racks powdercoated and assembled
.just to check that nothing got out-of-whack during sandblasting and powdercoating.
Inside the front mask mock-up
The OEM exhaust hangers/ rubbers welded to the subframe cross-braces
Trial fitting the Hepco panniers for fit and height
.Junior on the left, Gobi on the right
The it's onto getting the electrics sorted in the CBR600RR tail to fit into the OEM rear-loom.
Only one plug to disconnect the whole rear and remove the tail-piece within 2minutes.
The OEM connectors are used for the indicators and plate-light, the rest is soldered and heat-shrunk straight into the LED tail-light wiring.
The next issue was finding a location for the seat-release lock, retaining the original cable and hardware. I dont want to fit it to the tail-plastics, as that prevents quick removal, having to disconnect the cable every time.
Preferably a location that allows easy cable-routing without snagging and something that doesnt need frequent removal for servicing or such.
I also had to find something to cover the open parts of the battery box, as the side-panels of the Honda-tail are too short to cover
Rooting around the garage, the eyes fell onto the original rear mudguard unit
.nice, big holes already there with a recess for the lock
this could work
Some careful work with the heatgun and vice to bent things into shape and PRESTO!!:so:so
The small, separate front-panel fixed with 2 OEM push-pins allows quick access to some electricals and the fuse of the heated-grips relay without even lifting the seat.
(important when fully packed with camping-gear)
The right-hand side is still to come after the exhaust is mounted and the pipework done, as some more of the battery-box plastics might have to be trimmed/ removed for the pipe to go through.
Time to get onto that bloody exhaust, something I was dreading to tackle.
The space for the can is tight, positioning and fixing is a bit tricky, the half-forgotten Staintune pipe that's been cluttering up the garage is too long to fit unless it hangs right out the back and past the tail-light...then there's space needed for elbows/ bends...the fabrication of the connector pipe....different diameter pipework etc etc.::
A mate of a mate knows a guy, who might be able to help....yeah, one of those "connections"...:whistle:
AND WHADDA YA KNOW!!!....this "guy" lives more or less opposite !!!:wow::so
So I waltzed across one night and things started to take shape from there.
Martin had tried himself in the bike-exhaust business some years ago, but things turned out too hard to sell his meticulously fabricated stuff.:glu:glu
Now there are just a few leftovers, parts and semi-finished cans... and most the machinery and tools!:so
And a really nice guy to drive it all...YEEHA!!
We first decided to build a new can....then came back to modding the "old" (brandnew) Staintune....then settled on a possible mix of the 2, depending on the results of the tear-down...
"Next weekend, eh?"
Taking the hacksaw to a sparkling new Staintune (even if it was originally made for a Yammie TT600) is BLASPHEMY!!!....right??
Too bad !!
Lead pipe and hanger-brackets were already off....let's start "cracking a can" then....:chug:
First a cut near the end to see what's inside and get the rear-cap off...
Nothing special here....the perforated S/S as the core, some tightly-wound S/S wool...then a pile of S/S "Brillo Pads", all in a rolled and welded 100mm S/S pipe...a couple of caps...and that's it.:wow::wow:
I quickly knocked up a jig out of some timber bits, nailed a tiny bullet-head nail at the appropriate distance, leaving the nail-head to stick proud of the timber.
Then rotated the pipe against it to mark it off nice and evenly, scratching a tiny mark with the protruding nail-head.
The outer pipe cut to size (310mm long...down from 445mm)
Ready for welding
This time around, it all proved easier than thought...SO FAR!!:bs:bs
if this doesn't go in the books as your most elegant project, it sure should make it as your LONGest.....
very cool. nice fab work, and design.
this is getting so interesting :eek1
may i suggest you make the underseat can, an oval?
you would gain more volume and give some moer clearence over the rear tire.
Mate...looking at the garage-whiteboard and seeing the date when the bike came in...24/July/ 07....makes my head hang in shame
The last 2 bikes didn't take longer than 4 months each...
Then again...no need to rush it, as the 2 WTF1000's are running sweet and doing the job just fine.
That rear-conversion is a hell of a lot more complicated than hoped for...just about EACH single item has to be fabricated or at least heavily modded...metals, plastics, brackets, hangers, electricals etc etc
If one piece fits....5 others need modding, fixing, relocating etc
It's had me on the edge of the seat since day1
Yeah...was looking at an oval can....or some aftermarket S/S car item to be gutted and rebuilt, one of those flat sandwich-box jobbies with dual tips, or a big square one...
In the end, space under the seat is at a premium, things like heat-dissipation, neighbouring components etc. come into it and ultimately the cost as well.
With double or triple the budget I'd go for something else but there's no sense in finishing up with a (local) $7k bike costing $12k or more.
($ relevant to local AUS market).
The reason, I haven't gone for a KTM/ something USD frontend (YET), another 1000-1500 plus "mating" costs of triple clamps etc. are just a bit much.
There's enough clearance as is for full compression plus 15-20mm (~5/8 to ~3/4) of air... and that'll have to do.
I'm hoping to make up for the loss-in-volume due to shortening the can by stepping up the diameter of the lead-pipe from 1.75" to 2" right from the 2-into-1 joint... slowing the flow a bit.
I know it's not the same.... but it might help somewhat.
As anticipated...I laughed too early.
Things didn't work out with Martin through the week and the "piece-of-cake-welding" got postponed time and again.
Let's get into fabricating the hanger brackets, as they need to be welded to the can as well....
Made some mock-ups out of thin alum-sheeting...
...and Christ...there's a hundred things to consider, clearances, spacing, heat-shielding, cable re-routing, provision for this, that and the other, anti-vibe mounts....the list was endless and space is TIGHT! :wow:
I'd welded the OEM hangers onto the subframe crossbraces...and the rear one was too far "inboard" to center the pipe....SHIT.
No way to place it further out, i'd cover the thread needed for the pannier-rack-crossbrace!!
Pissfarted around for a couple of hours until I took the angle-grinder and cut it out...
More hours....and various knock-ups later...
....I finally had something I was happy with :so
Then re-fabricate the brackets in 1.2mm S/S I got from the Metal Recyclers down the road....
Went down to Westy's in Fern Tree Gully Saturday morning and watched poor Adam there fighting with the bloody zorst, which insisted on rolling off the welding table.
By the time they shut shop, things were done though...nice job, which cost a PACKET, too!
Still.....THAT'S what I wanted!!s:
SOLID....and with a certain "Italian" look...:lollol:
Getting ideas for the lead-pipe angles and clearances...
If all stars align, the connector pipe should be done by Saturday night and then it's off for 5litres of juice, hooking up tank and electrics.... and have a FIRST spin :glu:glu
Just by chance I stumbled across some Ram Tube Base Clamps (dont ask).
Originally made for custom-FI systems, theyve just got the perfect diameter to act as hanger-brackets for the front mask
. after some changing and grinding into shape
The 2 at the top are as they come
.the plain one at the bottom will be the top clamp, the one in the middle with the remaining ear will sit just above the lower triple clamp and provide the key support/ mounting for the duck-bill front guard
.another problem solved, as I didnt have an idea about how to tackle that one.:so
Martin confirmed the Saturday as exhaust day
then postponed to Sunday
then next Saturday
a pattern established quickly.
but there are still a few things I can play with
still, the bloody exhaust/ pipe-work was starting to wear me down.
Another weekend like that
and I had enough.
By now I had all the materials organized that he thought we would need
might as well have a play myself.:looney:
I was winging it
.but slowly things came together.
By Monday Id found another place (Roger from TigWeld in Kilsyth) that was happy for me to shove my noggin through the gate time and again :so and tack a few points on an increasing number of sections-of-pipe.
Unique Exhausts in Bayswater proved not just friendly, they worked like the wind, flaring the 45mm S/S pipe to go over the stub of the in-situ remains of the OEM system
a Great Thanks here!!!
Getting close !!!
Another half-dozen removal/ re-fits/ trial-fits and general stuffing-arounds and its DONE!!! YEEH-fuggen-HA!!!
The r/h side-cover on the battery-box (around the brake-reservoir/ shocker remote) was another little success
Clearances, electricals, radiation heat, space for heat-shielding, clearance to swingarm, clearance to subframe-tubing and and and
.lots of headaches here, but its finally come good
And another little bonus
to some Stromers, the hanging bracket for the plate (and LED button-lights) will look vaguely familiar.:???::???:
Remember the left battery-box sidecover/ seat release lock?
I cut apart an OEM Strom tailpiece for that.
The plate-bracket is another section of that tail
the part just above the OEM plate-light-mount.
Cut neatly around the can (with a tiny bit of clearance, as the can usually only gets lukewarm when riding) and fixed to the insides of the subframe-rails, its tight, small, neat and minimal.
Made an alum cross-shaped brace and bolted it on top with some countersunk 4mm S/S screws and nylocs
painted black, it doesnt show and gives the whole thing some stability.
The number plate goes on top.
Just in case someones wondering
.the 2. LED button light fell apart while putting some heat-shrink around the wires
..but Steve from RatedR parts in Perth is another champ I met along the way and sending out a replacement pair!! No comments, no IFs,no BUTs
.just Theyre on their way!!
GREAT guy to buy from
check Ebay.com.au for his biz name.
Credit where credit is due, aye? s:
.Rogers got the exhaust system for a couple of days to weld up properly, then the polishing
.then another 15min of sweat and curses to jam it into place and we should have a runner!!
2 weeks late
but a runner !!
I'm starting to chew the edge of the desk....can't wait!!
After another couple of setbacks, Saturday was finally the day of reckoning
.would the bike fire up after 11 months of slumber?
And all the changes to bit and pieces, electrics and just about everything else?
With that home-baked, mutilated Staintune?:looney::drool:
OI!!!! Its a Strom after all!!
After a busy morning of local Stromers zooming in and out, picking up some of the advertised Strom- spares, it was finally showtime when Jamie showed up
A few cranks of getting fuel into the bone-dry system and
The can sounds awesome
..not too loud
.but with a nice, aggro-bark to it when revved up
..YEEEHHHAAAA, I can certainly live with THAT! :so:sos:s:
His Highness, Pope Farkles couldnt keep his grubby mitts of it :bs
The face says it all: I WANT ONE !!!!! :glu:glu
And there he goes
What are we getting?
We LOVE IT !!!! :chug::chug:
Spinning the shit
Work goes on after Jamie left
fabbing the rear splash guards/ heat-shields and other stuff