Back in Black

Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by Geek, Feb 21, 2011.

  1. Geek

    Geek oot & aboot

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    That's probably the last time that little yellow "low fuel" light will ever be lit up :D

    I guess I put the sensor in right side up :dunno
    #81
  2. cjracer

    cjracer AWD please!!

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    Yes, w/ 2 screws.... and there were no posts on my panels to screw them back in. Not sure I'd want to anyways.
    #82
  3. Geek

    Geek oot & aboot

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    Are you sure you don't have any pics? :lurk


    edit: ooops.. I retract that.. you did post the pics :freaky This looks like a great solution!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    #83
  4. viola-tor

    viola-tor Needs to ride!

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    Hey man, that doesn't look half-bad! Those tanks are funny, I guess it totally depends on the camera angle weather they look GINORMOUS or not.

    Keep on with the updates!
    #84
  5. DeeGee

    DeeGee I'm a Yorkshireman thanoz

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    Great write up Ed :thumb

    What's the story with the Euro headlight though? Why switch from the one you've got?
    #85
  6. FINNDIAN

    FINNDIAN Mine goes to 11

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    aha so the cats out of the bag. YOur going with the fiberglass panels.
    I was actually asking Craig about those a few weeks ago. but XDBX ended up having a set of used stockers for me to paint.

    Awesome video.:clap
    #86
  7. Geek

    Geek oot & aboot

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    Nope.. I'm going with custom order carbon fibre panels :deal :evil

    It remains to be seen if they are going to look like shite or not :D
    #87
  8. Geek

    Geek oot & aboot

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    The US headlight uses a dual filament single bulb. It sucks.

    By going to the Euro headlight you end up with the dual bulbs (H3/H7) which means you can then change them as desired. I'll probably do something like a 50watt HID in the low beam and a higher wattage high beam (which is what I run on my TE610 and it works really well).
    #88
  9. Deadly99

    Deadly99 Fast and Far

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    Looks good Geek. Flatten the black on the rear panels and front fender and it'll be a sweet looking ride :freaky

    No more shiny bike photo's though ......
    #89
  10. Fiddlestix

    Fiddlestix Leapin' Lizard

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    That is one Bad A$$ looking bike!! Me likey!! :clap

    #90
  11. LocuL

    LocuL Gnarly Infantry

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    Besides crazy envyness i see problems with mounting my Tourtwat tankbag. I´ll be needing the 2 fairingscrews. Maybe just some zipties around the tank and done.

    Looks damn great. Which springs are you running in the front? I´m shifting to the 0.64. SPS did mine and back then i got 0.54.

    Mikael
    #91
  12. adiablolex

    adiablolex Lost again

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    looks awesome Geek :clap

    love the way the tank has the "murdered" look to it :wink:
    #92
  13. xdbx

    xdbx Motorcycle Connoisseur

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    Yo Ed,

    Next time, just unscrew the lense off the reflector of the turn signal and pull the blades through the other way. :thumb
    #93
  14. Geek

    Geek oot & aboot

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    both of which are magically going to turn into carbon fiber :D

    :freaky
    #94
  15. Geek

    Geek oot & aboot

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    I use the Wolfman tank bag - you can see the rear straps coming out from under the front of the seat - the front strap wraps through the steering head. Works well :thumb

    iirc I've got .59s in mine right now? My mind is drawing a blank at the moment.. I have the paperwork in a folder.
    #95
  16. Geek

    Geek oot & aboot

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    I think poping the blades out with a dental pick took me a total of 5 seconds. :D

    :freaky

    Do you have a recent photo of your bike Daniel?
    You went with the Safari's too eh?
    #96
  17. FINNDIAN

    FINNDIAN Mine goes to 11

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    I'm gonna have to get some heavier front springs too. Only .52's now


    A pic of Daniel's trailer queen last summer. when it was still a non-S

    [​IMG]
    #97
  18. CamelBill

    CamelBill Ride It!

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    Been looking for a digital volt meter for the nine-fiddy. Do you mind sharing what you use, and a source if possible.

    Great thread BTW, subscribed.
    #98
  19. Geek

    Geek oot & aboot

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    The digital voltmeter I used is a Datel.

    I think iirc I got it from here: http://www.bikemeters.com/cgi-bin/webshop.cgi?config=ent-datel mainly because he had the little bezel & stuff that made it easy.

    Here it is as it came out of the package:
    [​IMG]

    In the photo you can see the metal bracket that goes on the back side to hold it, the rubber gasket that seals the face to the fairing, and the faceplate and volt meter

    I mounted mine in my upper left fairing as you can see in the photo below, and I used a waterproof push-button switch I got from highwaydirtbikes.com to toggle it off and on.
    [​IMG]

    Here is a photo of me testing it before final install:

    [​IMG]


    I connected it with quick connectors and ran the wires in parallel (zip tied to) the turn signal connector. That way when I install the left fairing I remember to plug in all three wires :thumbs

    I have not yet figured out where I'm going to move it to now that I don't have an upper fairing with the Safari tanks. I definitely like having it onboard as it lets me keep track of my battery; especially on rides like tomorrow where I'm going to have heated grips, heated jacket, heated pants and my high-beam on... I need to know when to turn things down :D

    Hope this helps :freaky

    p.s. for me, I usually see the meter run 13.8 to 14.1 volts (higher at idle). I noticed that dropping for about a week (to where it read 13.2-13.4 on average) before my battery finally up and died. Food for thought if you see your voltage starts dropping.
    #99
  20. Geek

    Geek oot & aboot

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    Woot! Brown truck dropped by my office.
    Now I can get the bike finished late tonight or tomorrow morning :clap

    [​IMG]