Back wheel movement ???????

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by Moto Bikemad, Jun 25, 2012.

  1. Moto Bikemad

    Moto Bikemad Ride, see, fall off!

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    Sorry if this question has been asked....(have looked but don't know what I am looking for)

    I was in Dublin City Centre on Sat night, with a charity cycle run Belfast to Dublin and back. (210 miles each way)
    Got a puncture, on my 2000 1150 GS and while I was repairing it I noticed a slight movement in my back wheel.

    If you grip the tyre, there is a little movement right to left from the rear.

    Was discussing this with some of my fellow bike marshall's and there was talk of some adjustment, and a video, something
    to do with a long stick and a bag of sugar.

    This could have been the beer talking.......:freaky

    Any help would be great.....
    #1
  2. tagesk

    tagesk Tuscan rider

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    There should be no movement in the FD.
    Not in 3-9 and not 12-6.
    Zero.

    Movement is the first and surest sign of a worn main bearing.
    It will leave you stranded if you don't attend to it.

    [TaSK]
    #2
  3. ultane

    ultane sqeezin the bag

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    What he ^^^^ said...


    I might be wrong... Just ask my X...

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    #3
  4. MIXR

    MIXR Been here awhile

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    A bit of movement can also just be a sign that your paralever bearings are on their way out. Mine had movement for 50,000 kms before they were replaced. It drove my service guy nuts because I kept saying 'No' as they weren't bad enough by my reckoning. Really depends on whether it's 12/6 or 9/3 movement and whether you are sure it's the wheel or the whole paralever. Also check the wheel's rotation with a slow rotation. If the big bearing in the drive is going, you MAY feel it or hear it, but it's a test that may not show the problem. If you can, pull the rear wheel and look for any oil staining around the rear drive seal. That's also a sign that the bearing may be moving. And last (or first), drop the rear drive oil out and see what's on the magnetic plug. You may find nothing. You may find metal. A bit of sludge on the mag plug can be normal if you don't do the diff oil often. Bottom plug to drain, top plug to fill, and 250 ml of any good GL5 gear oil. Re-use the old crush washers. Look for a silver sheen to the oil that comes out. It may also be cloudy or dirty if it's been there a while. Start changing it every 10,000 kms with your engine oil.
    #4
  5. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid!

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    Kind of as above.

    First verify if it is your FD or your paralever bearings that are the issue.

    Hold the brake pedal down and try again. If your movement persists, it is your paralever. If no movement it is your FD!

    Jim :brow
    #5
  6. Moto Bikemad

    Moto Bikemad Ride, see, fall off!

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    Hi,

    Just changed the drive oil, nothing out of the ordinary,
    Looked at the hub no leaks.
    Nothing on the magnet, just a little dust, in oil.

    I do change the oil every 6000m with the other fluids.

    The movement is 3/9, with a little noise, click.

    No grinding or growling when wheel is spun.

    Still there when back brake is pressed........:cry
    #6
  7. HighWay319

    HighWay319 Adventurer

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    That's good news. Sounds like its just the paralever, much cheaper part to fix.
    #7
  8. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid!

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    No wories, pivot bearing wear. Simple fix.

    Jim :brow
    #8
  9. Short-Johnson

    Short-Johnson IBA# 34787

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    could you guys explain the 12-6 movement a bit more as to how much should be allowed and what would be the cause of lets say 1 inch of free play 12 to 6 ?
    #9
  10. solarinsocal

    solarinsocal Adventurer

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    I think about 1" of free play will mean your wheel is about to fall off. I think you might be misunderstanding the play at 12 and 6.:D
    #10
  11. Short-Johnson

    Short-Johnson IBA# 34787

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    very possible I am mis understanding, the 12 to 6 I thought would be as if the bike was rolling back and forth. I grab my wheel and roll it and it has an inch of play. but as i write this I'm thinking I understand the whole 3-9 12-6. Grab the wheel at 3-9 try to move it then at 12 top and 6 bottom and repeat ? sound right ?
    #11
  12. SloDon

    SloDon Hey...where am I?

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    I am sure I will be corrected if I am wrong.....but they are NOT talking about driveline slack/lash while trying to rotate the wheel in gear. There will be some of this always....

    I believe they are talking about grasping the wheel at the 3 and 9 o'clock or front and rear POSITIONS and trying to ROCK the wheel on its axle then again at 12 and 6 or top and bottom.

    Seeing if there is any free play.
    #12
  13. Short-Johnson

    Short-Johnson IBA# 34787

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    Thanks slowdon, took me a bit but I got it..... Nuttin gets by me !!! :evil
    #13
  14. Moto Bikemad

    Moto Bikemad Ride, see, fall off!

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    I was looking at the back wheel from the exhaust side.
    Grabbing it at the top 12 and the bottom 6 and trying to move it.
    Doing the same at 3 o'clock and 9

    Just a big guess on my side
    #14
  15. MIXR

    MIXR Been here awhile

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    You've got it now guys. No rotation of the wheel involved. Just a static check on the centrestand with the rear wheel off the ground. It can be deceptive, but testing it each service and jotting down what you find is a good thing to do. As I said earlier, worn paralever bearings can be lived with for a long time if you want. They tend to 'squeak' when they get too bad and too dry, and the movement can become excessive. There a question that this can exacerbate other loads on the drive bearings, but I'm not convinced of that having had a lot of play on one bike and no drive failure, and no play on another bike and a drive failure after relatively few miles.
    #15
  16. Mackinac76

    Mackinac76 Adventurer

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    I read this thread with interest yesterday because for the last several thousand miles (52,000 total) my rear wheel had had a very small of movement at both the 3-9 and 12-6 positions. Keep in mind that while the amount of movement was very small, several posts stated that it should be zero. In an earlier post by JimVonBaden, he suggested checking the paralever bearings

    With dreaded final drive failure a possibility, I headed off this morning to my BMW dealership for a look. About 20 minutes into the examination, the mechanic declared the final drive to be fine and a slight adjustment in the paralever bearings removed all motion in the rear wheel.

    Thanks for the great insight!
    #16
  17. Moto Bikemad

    Moto Bikemad Ride, see, fall off!

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    I think i will get it looked into, later rather than sooner, as the summer here is " shite "
    so far and I have no plans to leave the County on any runs.
    Next time I am passing the mechanics i will call in.

    Some times we are too quick to tear things down and replace in our panic to get our bikes just perfect,
    in-case we miss a great ride out.

    We all need a spare bike or two in the garage for that day.
    #17
  18. Emoto

    Emoto Sure, why not?

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    How does one adjust the paralever bearings? :eek1
    #18
  19. tagesk

    tagesk Tuscan rider

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    Without hurting the feeling of BMW fanboys, I think it is safe to say that the type of bearings BMW has chosen for this application is not optimal. The effect is that the bearing wear in a non-uniform manner.
    If you take the bearing out, turn the race, re-grease and install, you can adjust them to have no play (again).

    If you just tighten the preload, it is likely the hearing wil get stuck. Then the race will rotate on teh pin instead. The pin must then be replaced. It is expensive.

    In fact, an annual reinstall with cleaning and greasing will, with all likelyhood, make the bearing last the lifetime of the bike.

    [TaSK]
    #19
  20. Peka

    Peka Long timer

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    If your final drive oil looks like this:

    [​IMG]

    and all this metal is on the drain plug:

    [​IMG]

    it's a good sign your big bearing is toast. :wink:

    It also had movement and had just started making noise.
    #20