Baja again: Dos Pendejos

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by motoged, Jan 24, 2007.

  1. VascoMerlin

    VascoMerlin He'll Stab Your Cat

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    Tell your boss to the shut the f*ck up, and finish this thing.

    I have nothing better to do!
    #21
  2. motoged

    motoged Been here awhile

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    Cap'n,
    I AM the fokkin' boss....so it creates some real conflict for me trying to shift gears from cervezas, fish tacos, and sweaty riding gear to being back at the orifice...:cry

    I will spend some time tonight adding more re: riding around Bahia de Concepcion....pics, smuggling stories, and more unfathomable stuff like that...

    Tune in later..... in the meantime, you must be able to find something to do, even in NJ:lol3
    #22
  3. Zerodog

    Zerodog Long timer

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    Keep it coming. This is the area we want to check out!!!! :jkam
    #23
  4. motoged

    motoged Been here awhile

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    Zerodog et al,

    The Mulege - Loreto area offers a wide range of moto-adventure possibilities.

    The San Felipe-Gonzaga Bay-Coco's Corner-Bahia de los Angeles stretch is also a classic area to ride as this forum attests....and some folks seem to think Cabo San Lucas is a destination of worth (I think it is worth seeing and if you area yahoo who likes to get drunk and then get hung upside down and have a guy make you get more pissed ...Cabo is for you...but after seeing it I like to get out of their REAL quick....too many guys in shorts wearing sandals with white socks for my liking).

    Of course, we all have our own ideas about what we think is cool and/or worthwhile....so I can set myself up for criticism by judging some things in the way I do....but in the spirit of some of these ADV Rider posts. FYYFF if you don't agree with me....and FYYFF if you do agree (as this expression is not only a suggestion for others, it seems to be a great term of endearment...:deal go figure !!!

    Anyways, YFF's, here is some more....

    Mulege is at the northern reach of Bahia Concepcion, a large bay that reaches about 30 kms in length and offers some spectacular beaches, camping opportunities, vistas, and riding.

    From the sand dune beaches just south of the Pemex at the south end of Mulege (on the highway), one can see the northern tip of the peninsula on the east side of Bahia Concepcion....

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    We took a day to do a loop around Bahia San Nicholas at the south end of Concepcion. As we preferred to avoid riding pavement along the coast of B of C from Mulege, we opted to load the bikes in the truck and ride from Isla Requeson near the south end of the Bay......

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    Isla Requeson is unique in that it has an isthmus that joins it to the peninsula (remember that Baja is a peninsula and cannot be referred to as "the mainland"), a phenomenon that creates a spectacular setting...

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    We parked at the shack which seemed to be the location for the jefe of the beach ...

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    I paid the guy for parking and determined that we would be back by 4:00 pm , mas o menos, and explained that we were going to San Sebastion y San Nicholas por la dia....


    Oh, Oh....I have just been called to dinner....back with the rest of the day in a bit....
    #24
  5. LaOutbackTrail

    LaOutbackTrail Certified Smartass

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    Best pic.

    Nice report.
    Baja or Copper Canyon first....:lobby
    #25
  6. motoged

    motoged Been here awhile

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    Now.....where was I? Oh, yeah.....riding up out of Isla Requeson and heading south on the highway to the south end of Concepcion.

    This area is flat and often windy. Remnants of a trailer park or something punctuate the beach and, with a few options of double-track, lead a rider eastward to a few forks in the road....one which leads northward up along the west side of this spectacular peninsula....and one which leads eastward to San Sebastion and then San Nicholas...I wanted Darren to enjoy some of the whoopy winding double track leading north, so we turned left....

    Before long, we passed some fishcamps where the clam shell middens are impressive....

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    I am not sure which type of clams these are, but I will guess that they are what they call chocolate ( "choko..latte") ...years ago when I first saw them, I thought they were scallops...


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    I particularly like this northern ride as it is often like slalom skiing...the curves and whoops are manageable and a rider can set up a good rythm ...

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    We rode only several miles north as we wanted to give ourselves enough time in case we would hook up with a Baja Nomad (Vgabndo) in San Nicholas as he promised a beer if we showed up with our noisy bikes :freaky...

    We took a break and some pics just north of a small dry lakebed...

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    At one point in time I glanced over at Darren while we were both taking pics and I saw him crouched behind a shrub and he was motioning me to move away. At first I assumed he was squatting and giving birth to a Republican, so I looked away and sauntered out of his "space".....I later learned that he was taking a pic of some phallic cactus.....

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    Later, I caught him praying or communicating with extraterrestrials...

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    When I ride the GS, I usually carry a squashed beer can to place under the sidestand in loose terrain ...w/ the KTM I usually look for a stone or piece of wood...

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    In Baja, strong sticks are more difficult to find and mostly one finds skeletal innards of chollo or other cactus...

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    It was fun playing on the harder packed sand in that area....more often the sand was looser and offered less traction...

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    We motored south back to the fork in the road that would take us out to San Sebastion on the east coast of the peninsula....

    This ride is on hard-pack and winds over an alto-plano before it drops you down into a canyon arroyo and eventually spits you out into a remarkable oasis leading to the exquisite circular bay of San Sebastion...

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    This bay is ringed with a dozen or so homes inhabited by some lucky gringos....itr is a long way in from the highway, but is a place I would give my left huevo for to have a spot...

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    We backtracked into the palm canyon and rode up a washed out road which leads to San Nicholas. The road was only rough for the uphill to the following improvement...

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    Bahia San Nicholas beckons and offers some future riding...and hopefully a beer with Vgabndo...

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    But I must tell a tale from my last Baja ride .... http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=124833&highlight=motoged
    that connects with this one ....

    In March '05, I shared the trip with some guys and it was our first time to San Sebastion. By looking at the map, it was a no-brainer that I had to check it out. The four of us rode into the small community and I was wanting a bit more gas to fill up the Clark tank. I asked a fellow working on a backhoe if any was to be had and he pointed towards a house on the north side of the bay that had a few fellows building a stone wall in front of an impressive "beach cabin"....

    He indicated that he thought he could ask around and, before he could, his workmate offered the four of us three cans of Coke...a gesture appreciated by the four of us thirsty riders (better flavor than CamelBAck stuff). As we were passing the cola amongst us, another gringo approached us with four cans of cold beer and, with a great smile, said...."Years ago when I was riding around down here I thought it would be so cool if I rode into a place like this and someone just walked up and offered me a cold beer! So here you guys are...."

    We all grokked the value of his gesture....Big Time !!!!!!!!!!!

    And as we slurped the beer (I got two as one of the guys didn't drink beer) two other gringos approached us...one was about 6'3'' it seemed and he was giving us a wary eye...his buddy seemed friendlier and I asked if he knew if I could get some gas....he said "I can get you some....my place is that one over there". We all chatted for a short while and I motored over to the guy's place.

    A roomy "surfer house" was adorned with fishing gear and a range of other stuff. Outside in his "garage" area, he had a range of fuel containers.
    The one that I noticed was opaque rotomoulded plastic like my Clark tank and was about a cubic meter in size. I enquired if it was boat gas and he said, "Those are gas cans that the smugglers use and that they throw overboard when they are empty".

    WELL>>>> my ears perked up:eek1 and I said, "I don't want to be uncool, but what could you tell me about smuggling here?"....as, being a worldly fellow, I knew that the Baja is a major pipeline for dope coming out of the Copper Canyon area and other mainland states across the Sea of Cortez.:clap:wink::deal

    The fellow was generous enough to offer the following tale:

    :ear"The smugglers use solid-hulled Zodiacs with three Honda 250 horse motors to bring across bales of pot and heroin from the mainland. As they use up their fuel they just throw these fuel cells overboard. When we are out in our pangas fishing we sometimes find them floating so we pick them up and sometimes use them."
    "I wasn't here earlier in the winter", he continued, "but one night some of the folks here heard a helicopter overhead for a few minutes and it left after what sounded like it was backfiring. When they woke up in the morning they saw one of these zodiacs up on the beach full to the gunwhales with bales of dope....and one guy dead on the beach with a machine gun beside him and one guy dead spread on top of the bales.
    That morning the Federales came in with a big truck and hauled all the stuff away."
    "Sometimes we might be out fishing and the Federale helicopter will fly right over us about 50 feet and check to see what is in our pangas....their 50 calibers make me a bit nervous.":ear


    Now, THAT is a great Baja story if you ask me :freaky:clap:wink::evil

    When we returned this year I looked for the guy and he was sitting in the sun at the back of his place looking real relaxed. I took my helmet off and said, "I just wanted to say thanks again for the gas last year and introduce my friend to the guy who told me the smuggler story so he wouldn't think I was bullshitting!",,,and i walked over to shake his hand and reintroduce myself.



    Yep, San Sebastion would be a great place to spend some time:lol3
    #26
  7. motoged

    motoged Been here awhile

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    After riding into San Nicholas, I looked for a white diesel pick-up and Vgabndo but did not see anything like that, so we road out to the highway to the junction at El Rosarito and headed back up to Isla Requeson.

    Not wanting to stop riding yet,

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    We tooled around the beach area at slowmo and found a few sweet spots north of the main beach by following a coastal trail a short ways...

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    But all good things seem to end too soon and we were back in the truck for another Mulege Mood....Muy Tranquillo pero un poquito consado


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    #27
  8. Guaglione

    Guaglione Untethered

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    Hey Ged,

    as I sit here in the dreary Seattle cold, sick with flu and coughing up a storm, I am forced to endure another greuling tale of fun and cerveza.

    dammit man, can't you let me wallow in my misery without kicking me when I am down??

    That Acerbis tank looks pretty spiffy on the KTM. I bet it holds an awful lot of candian bacon!!!

    Ciao,

    Luca

    PS - I pick up the newly re-worked XR650R tomorrow, and the dirt around here is getting nervous.
    #28
  9. Gordy

    Gordy Team Listo

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    Wow!!! What a great ride! Enjoyed the pics!! Thanks!!!!
    #29
  10. ktmnate

    ktmnate Long timer

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    Thanks for a great report :thumb

    It makes me want to just dump everything and head south.


    Nate
    #30
  11. motoged

    motoged Been here awhile

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    ADV folks....a note to thank my riding buddy, Darren, for many of the posted pics in this report....I haven't bothered up until now for giving him that credit....:freaky


    Bahia Concepcion.....some pics taken by Darren...

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    I won't attempt to name which beach is which, but relax and appreciate that they are all within a 15 km range (mas o menos) of each other and each has its own particular character....all are accessible on a motorcycle and certainly most are accessible by car, truck, or RV....many have camping facilities of one sort or another....

    Solo camping on beaches may be dangerous (not a scare tactic, but something to think about in your adventurous spirits)...an elderly gentleman was murdered in October/06 while RV camping solo on Playa Armenta...this could have happened anywhere on this planet, but be careful..
    http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=20906#pid185107

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    After deciding to pass up on a few more "Mulege Rides" that were potentials, we decided to pull up stakes and head south to Loreto for several days of riding.

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    By this time it was December 28th and we needed to figure out when we would be where....Loreto area...La Paz area....South Cape area...and Bahia de los Angeles area....all basecamp locales that needed to be ridden by January 17th or thereabouts....

    We bypassed B o LA on the way down and were certainly planning 4-8 days in that area on our return north ....


    It was hard to leave our home at La Hacienda...

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    and all of its creature comforts...

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    But we were ready for a change. Loreto offered great rides west of town to San Xavier Mission, La Purisima, Agua Verde....so we were packed and gone....

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    And the eye candy of Bahia Concepcion made it a smokin' drive...

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    As it worked out, however, Loreto was full of tourists and we decided to not spend a hot afternoon looking for accomodations that suited our needs to have the truck and bikes relatively "secure", so we agreed we could make it to Ciudad Constitucion before dark, and then on to La Paz the next day for that section....

    "On the road again" (Canned Heat tune)....

    and we found a great place that I would recommend in CC....the Oasis Hotel

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    It is located three blocks west of the highway coming into town from the north....

    Parking was good...

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    the pool was cold...:cry

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    and there was a promise of a penthouse suite...

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    We unpacked the truck as was our travelling ritual:
    1) worry about security issues;
    2) unpack all the stuff from the truck and lug it to the room;
    3) cable the bikes and tires to truck;
    4) worry about the whole rig being stolen;
    5) remember that sometimes you don't need to worry so much;
    6) double-check that padlock is clicked;
    7) have a beer;
    8) walk out to truck and examine bikes with astute mechanical eyes;
    9) get another beer and extoll the virtues of what fokkin incredible machines these are;
    10) talk about where and what we might want for dinner;
    11) get another beer and gaze lovingly at the bikes;
    12) start to get ready to go eat something and decide whether to walk or take the truck (depending on where we are);
    13) get in the truck and scout the town for the most promising taco stand;
    14) eat tacos;
    15) look for where else to park....and decide that it is close to the ice cream stand...

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    An early start the next morning demanded caffeine ... and the Starbucks wannabe served up a moderate cup of coffee ((good coffee in the Baja is difficult to find, it seems)...

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    The morning was sunny ... and that early in the morning not much was open, so our plans for a taco breakfast were doomed...

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    But after a few slurps of a triple Americano con leche, the town seemed to wake up a bit....


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    The drive to La Paz was relatively uneventful, but we were excited for this next stage....La Paz welcomed us in a grand but silent manner...

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    The malecon welcomed us....
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    #31
  12. rokklym

    rokklym one man wolfpack

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    Fantastic pics! Your ride report has me marking spots on the map to check out! keep the pics coming!
    :lurk
    #32
  13. flyingbeard

    flyingbeard Long timer

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    Me Too....:D
    #33
  14. sixer

    sixer I suffer from Ainrofilac

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    :lurk

    keep it coming.
    #34
  15. FEJ

    FEJ Durka Durka

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    Encinitas, CA
    I miss Baja so effin much:cry ! This report is making me crazy:deal !
    :lurk
    #35
  16. motoged

    motoged Been here awhile

    Joined:
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    Kamloops, BC
    The entire purpose of my post really is to provide visual and narrative info that might be helpful to other riders.....any of my opinions and/or editorializing should be taken with a pound of salt.

    I am glad some riders find this info helpful for their own trip planning :deal and that others just enjoy the ride vicariously :clap

    As a previous viewer has admonished me for my insensitivity, I have agreed with him offline and his perception that I could have been more supportive with San Ignacio Woman....but more on her adventure later as the report unfolds.

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    Back on the road to Peace....

    La Paz is a busy place that has a great history, urban insanity, good connections...and is a good place to use as a transitional stage from the "outback" riding we had been doing and the tourist glut of the south cape region.

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    We spent several days at my preferred place, Hotel Gardenia...

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    We did the bondage thing with the bikes...

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    I was surprised that they were as accommodating as they were about having our bikes inside the courtyard, but a fellow from Wisconsin (sorry I don't recall his name right now) had set the precedent a bit earlier (and they have most likely been as gracious over the years with other riders....any time I had been there previously it was on a GS and I was willing to leave it outside in the parking lot) ...

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    The pool was "refreshing"...and offered opportunities to be a sun pig...

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    La Gardenia is east of central downtown and several blocks south of the malecon. It has a restaurant that we only used for coffee or an occasional breakfast for the 2-3 days we stayed there. Darren had some downtime with intestinal issues, the predictable experience for many travellers. It is not a real surprise that when folks from Mexico (and other countries as well) experience similar issues when visiting Canada and the USA....different bacteria than we are used to can plague any traveller...:cry:huh:eek1


    So, drink lots of water, no alcohol, don't overdose on the Immodium, and don't let it bug you as it usually passes ina few days...

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    Darren made friends with all sorts of bugs along the way....he has a neice, apparently" that really likes insects so Darren was compiling a range of pics for her...

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    One afternoon we were looking for a place to have lunch on the waterfront and I noticed a place offering "drinks and snacks" so we asked what they offered...

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    The young bartender, Oscar, was kind enough to let us know that the "snacks" was really peanuts and chips stuff, and he suggested we go further down the street for real food....and offered to keep an eye on the truck while we had lunch elsewhere. We walked for several blocks and didn't want to eat at Applebee's or other overpriced waterfront locales so we decided to return to Oscar's and have a beer or something to drink before finding lunch....

    Well, we decided on a margarita instead of a beer and Oscar promised us THE BEST MARGARITA IN THE BAJA....how could we turn it down???

    I watched him carefully prepare what looked like a classic marg and then was horrified to see him top it off with some terrible Tang-like orange juice...we sipped on them, munched on a variety of peanuts and chip stuff.

    The marg didn't appeal to my tastebuds, but it somehow appealed to my sense of "Let's drink margaritas!!!"

    So we had several (that includes up to 4 doesn't it?)...Darren was inspired to take some pics of the surroundings after a while...

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    And the sunny afternoon turned into sunset...

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    ....remember this started out as lunch.....so, despite the Tang overriding the taste of lime and tequila, somehow we remained glued to our stools for a period of time here that was somehow altered by the consumption of such a wonderous libation....

    Moral of the story...."Tang ain't that bad 1":freaky:clap:1drink:rofl:lol3
    #36
  17. dochstader

    dochstader Adventurer

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    Jeeeze, Ged - I have patiently read, and re-read your fabulous report, but I have yet to find an instance where you offered to help your tent/travelmate change his third-or-fourth flat of the day! No wonder the two of you got along so well!

    Mr Happy.
    #37
  18. Papa Dulce

    Papa Dulce Old Enough to Know Better

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    Thanks ya'll for the great report and many ideas on where to eat and stay. Three of us are leaving Fri for Baja. Looks like we will be there for 10-11 days of riding. I have been once before in '04 for 3 weeks and the other guys are Baja noobs, but good riders all. Our plan is to stay off the pavement as much as possible. With good tire management (well, as good as can be expected), how many miles before you changed tires? I would rather not mess with shipping tires ahead.
    Papa
    #38
  19. motoged

    motoged Been here awhile

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    Sweet Daddy,
    Have a good ride....tubless tires???....Take lotsa plugs and DO NOT run tires under 30 lbs pressure no matter WHAT you may be told ( from other experts like me:lol3)...because????...Every GSer/950 KTMer who has a flat or bent rim did so because of low tire pressure...unless, of course, it was caused by a puncture....low tire pressure results frequently in pinch flats or,in the case of one GSer w/ Metzler Tourances, a front tire bulge that severely compromised his 2-week trip after 3 days ....he wasn't sure how safe it would be and when the bulge would blow....

    Que via bien, amigo

    Ged
    #39
  20. motoged

    motoged Been here awhile

    Joined:
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    908
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    Kamloops, BC
    El Mur,
    I know you will be ripping up the desert by the end of next week....be easy on the newbies and try to limit the days to 300-400 kms :rofl

    El Mur at outset of 10 day ride in '05...he was That Guy for a bit...first flat at Kiki's in San Felipe the day we were to head out...his response to offers of our help earned him the 'Mr. HAppy" tag (which he normally is when he doesn't have flats ....)

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    and then at Coco's later that morning...

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    and the next day at Ricardo's in San Ignacio...no pics....I decided to stand back...:lol3

    But his practice helped out Mr. Big who had so many flats we lost count...

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    Both these guys are headed down again in early February, so they can practice 4-minute ISDE efforts :freaky:clap...
    #40