Baja again: Dos Pendejos

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by motoged, Jan 24, 2007.

  1. DRS Canada

    DRS Canada Adventurer

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    Oh yeah ! The walk into town ! Waka, Waka ! Well just remember that you weren't the only stumbler that night, but you stole the trophy out of my hands. A clear and decisive victory. The name of the restaurant was " Coopers " and it was excellent. We're getting close to the final sighting and Todos, looking forward to this ...


    Later,
    Darren:ear
    #61
  2. motoged

    motoged Been here awhile

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    Hey....the boss said I could use work time to continue with this report....

    like I need his permission...pheh:lol3

    Well, there we were....at the turn-around point of the trip and some of the sweetest riding ahead of us...

    Between beach days we took a route I first rode in '94 on the R80 G/S....about 9 kms or so north of the airport at San Jose is the Rancho Naranja Road and it goes up and over the Sierra de la Laguna mountains to the Pacific coast where it joins the #19 Highway just south of Todos Santos...the Carmel of Baja and the home of Hotel California which is so often mistakenly given credit for the Eagles tune of the same name (the song's title is a metaphor, folks....)....as well as a place with a wide selection of good taco joints.

    An early enough departure and a blast up the highway to the turnoff brought us to a small welcoming committee....


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    With dogged determination they approached us like the Welcome Wagon...

    but the dust in the distance was even more welcoming on this beautiful high speed avenue...

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    After a fast blast and a couple of corners, we settled into a most beautiful range of terrain that offered streams/rivers, ranchos, horses, a Tibetan Buddhist monastery, and killer vistas...

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    Darren's great cloud pic....

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    The winding road was a lot of fun to ride as we could catch glimpses of the route ahead and grand vistas of the canyons along the way...

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    The ride would take maybe just over an hour if one did not stop along the way, but we would pull over to take pics or just gawk at the terrain....before the Pacific presented its majesty to us...

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    Down on the flats a myriad of roads offer various ways to the highway....some get you there....some don't....

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    #62
  3. ktmnate

    ktmnate Long timer

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    Bravo, Keep up the great work. :thumb


    Nate
    #63
  4. gaspipe

    gaspipe Wandering Soul Super Moderator

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    MmmmmmmMMmmmmm.......Caguamas!

    #64
  5. motoged

    motoged Been here awhile

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    So, there we was....:clap

    On top of the divide looking down at the Pacific and looking forward to Todos Santos....

    As the ride this morning so far was at that pace that seemed moderate...but we both agreed that we would take more pics on the return ride...

    We wound our way down from the mountains, found the right route with only one "Qual ruta por Todos?" (my Spanish is butchered but it gets me by....I have learned what I know about it mostly when travelling....I promise myself to take lessons some day so I can interject the occasional verb into my phrases:lol3), and enjoyed the smooth hard-pack out to the highway...

    Darren kickin' up some dust.....


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    On to the highway just south of Los Cerritos and up to Todos...dropped in at the Hotel California to say hello to the owner from our hostess in San Jose but she wasn't there that day....

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    So we tooled around for a brief tour of town and found a taco stand with appropriate attitude...

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    And Darren had a chance to preview his pics of the day, have a cerveza, and enjoy the sights....

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    After some tacos and beer, we gassed up at the Pemex next door and headed out to a few of the beaches south of town....

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    #65
  6. motoged

    motoged Been here awhile

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    Todos Santos is an agricultural area as it is supplied with adequate water from the mountains...
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    And the town itself has an air of nouveau riche these days, but the "old Mexico" flavour is to be found....

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    Some folks have done a wonderful job of ressurecting buildings that were falling-down adobe shells when I first went to Todos in 1989...

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    After Todos, we scouted some beaches for the view and to see if some coastal trails might take us back to the Los Cerritos turnoff from whence we came....we happened upon an overpriced surfer hotel and asked the young American owner some directional questions....and he pointed southward...

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    There is a lot of real estate development going on all over....and this lot was for sale...

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    So, I'm going to sell a kidney and make a down payment...

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    So, with a last glance northwards, I clicked into first and motored towards Los Cerritos...

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    As I have been heard to say that "No matter where you are in outback Mexico, if you stand in one place for a few minutes for a smoke....a Mexican is bound to come out of nowhere...."....

    Sure as hell...

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    Cool rig....articulated beast of some sort....

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    So I nodded as one is want to do in such situations....and headed into Los Cerritos....an overcrowded surfer beach ...

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    We wound through some newly bulldozed trails in a real estate development between the beach and the highway for a few miles, and then did some pavement....for too long....and passed the turnoff...we stopped for a beer at a tienda and considered our options....and decided to slab it to Cabo....

    We warmed the knobbies for a while and passed a wide arroyo coming cown from the mountains to the east and I recognized it from my 1994 ride on the R80 G/S.... We turned around approached the quad rental business located at the south end of the bridge over the dry riverbed and I confirmed my hunch with one of their guides....YES....this arroyo led to the small pueblo of La Candelaria....the place where I searched for a Curandero in 1994....

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    The arroyo was quite wide and consisted of deep and loose sand that was a challenge even at speed....thank the gods for steering dampers...

    the bike was working hard and the sand was not only deep and loose, it was seriously washboarded due to the hordes of tourist quadriders....

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    As we rode eastwards we saw a group of quadders approaching....

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    On our beach days east of San Jose, Darren and I noticed and commented to one another various aspects of quad tours that gave us some concern....as seasoned, non risk-taking, sensible WATGATT , obey all the rules kind of rider guys :lol3:clap:deal:evil

    We consistently noticed quad renters:
    1) riding like hell trying to keep up with the guide and the Alpha riders up front;
    2) their ride gear tended to consist of flip flops, Walmart shorts with big flower prints, wife-beater T-shirts, baseball helmets without chinstraps, and yellow "dirt bandanas" (most likely provided by rental agency as a person must inhale 10 lbs of dust in an hour ride);
    3) every third rider had a child under the age of six sitting on their lap...


    now...add these factors up, have one of them crash (likely into one another), and imagine the injury list :eek1

    More evidence for reasons to be concerned was witnessed on our trip north a few days later at the same arroyo....stay tuned....

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    Anyways....as we rode further up the wash, we saw a quad abandoned due to what appeared to be a blown rear shock.....

    after a few miles we approached the end of the arroyo and headed up the narrow double track trail on the north side of the canyon...and wound our way a few more miles into La Candalaria.....

    Years before when I rode there in search of one of their alleged Curanderos (ie. Healers...shaman type folks....Carlos Castenada stuff), i remember asking around a bit if I could be directed to a Curandero....and I was directed to the school house which had a red cross symbol on a door by the office.....

    What did I expect??? Some grisled old person willing to take me to my spiritual outer reaches with a handful of peyote ??? (well....kinda)...:clap:deal

    I suppose when one is on such a meaningful spiritual quest you don't approach it so bluntly or naively :huh

    The road out of La Candalaria would offer side roads on occasion and, after turning a few of them down, my 13 year old recollection of the road system took us on a delightful winding road that brought us right into the western hills of San Jose....

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    A PRIMO DAY :clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap
    #66
  7. motoged

    motoged Been here awhile

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    Back in San jose and a stop at the tienda for some refreshments....and the kids outside on new Xmas presents...I want to change the look of my KTM to that guy's Batman motif...
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    The town was still enjoying the festive lights...

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    Our time in San Jose del Cabo was very enjoyable and gave us a good pointfrom which to start the return northwards....to more primo riding and adventure. We drove west toCabo San Lucas and, to my pleasure, DArren was not hard pressed to pass on scouting the town out....so we motored northwards and were hoping to make it to Loreto that night before dark.

    Again, we were on #19 going north....and headed towards the sandy arroyo we had enjoyed a day or two earlier....Quadsand Gully....

    It was Darren who noticed some unusual traffic going up that riverbed....
    it is difficult to notice this traffic in this pic as it is mostly obscured by the bridge rail...

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    But it was apparent that someone was needing some serious assistance....otherwise this white truck with the red cross on it would not need to brave the perils of this deep sand...

    It was maybe 10:00 am and already a quad rider was seriously injured...

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    We gabbed about our predictions as to what kind of injury required an ambulance out there....we thought that a broken arm or clavicle could be returned to base on another quad so it had to be a broken leg, spinal injury, or head injury......

    ATGATT :clap:ear:deal


    We stopped in Todos Santos for an early lunch and found this place to serve excellent pork tacos....just a few steps away from Shut Up Franks...

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    The tacos were rather large, the meat was tender, and the condiments were varied....

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    After brunch....we beelined north...

    We kept a steady pace until we got to La Paz....I pulled in to a Pemex and gassed up. While doing so, I was talking to the young gas jockey and, while covering the usual topics (re: bikes---how fast, how much, can you wheelie), the fellow responded to one of my queries about a particular shopping request and he reassured me that he knew where to get what I was looking for....so we looked a round for a while at a nearby figurine emporium to pass some time while the gas jockey did his thing...

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    And while this kind of stuff was NOT on our shopping list, it was a chance to look for some interesting photo "image" practice....a bit of a failue by the evidence provided here :lol3 but , while it may not make YOUR eyes bug out...

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    ...it does give you something you can almost sink your teeth into...

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    By the time we walked around this place and found a place to buy some oil for the truck....we completed our previous shopping request with the gas jockey, thanked him for his help and shared interests, and went on our way west outta town....
    #67
  8. motoged

    motoged Been here awhile

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    The drive north from La Paz was relatively uneventful ...

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    ....the usual beer stop.....maybe somewhere maybe around Las Pocitas... where I asked if they had any hielo...and the fellow assured me they did and took me out behind the tienda ....and pulled out a beegeezuz big knife...and opened the freezer and stabbed off a block the size of a toaster oven...and then was kind enough to carry it to my truck ....

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    where it found a home in the cooler.....where it could chillax with some friends...

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    We arrived in Ciudad Constitucion....our ride plans were reviewed and, while we had intended to ride a few days out of Loreto, we somewhow both agreed to pass on that and spend more time in Bahia de los Angeles.....so we stopped overnight again at the Hotel Oasis in Ciudad Constitucion....

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    ....went out on a taco prowl...

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    and then found a familiar face which brightened up the night with her smile....

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    and some ice cream....

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    #68
  9. xmanwxr600

    xmanwxr600 All Around Driver.

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    Mexicali Baja Calif. The Magical Desert
    Way to go bro┬┤s... congrats on that magnificent ride...thanks for posting.......:beer
    #69
  10. motoged

    motoged Been here awhile

    Joined:
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    By now it is about January 6th and we are in Ciudad Constitucion....we are up before the sun ...

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    We start to reload the truck....the bikes are left cabled onto the truck when we are stopping for overnights "enroute", but we have been in the habit of lugging 5 large duffle bags with gear into rooms at night....and often the cooler and kitchen box...

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    We eventually developed a relatively good cooperative system of the "load...unload...load...unload" ritual...and by the end of the trip I was almost remembering which bag and stuff-sack held what....

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    nothing was open in town that I recall and we headed out....the sun rose and we were bee-lining it to Loreto....approaching the turn-off to Agua Verde in the early morning light, I was craning my neck to get my last look at the valleys below...an area that always looked inviting to ride...but not this time...

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    And almost before we knew it, we were winding through the switchbacks leading down towards Loreto....

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    the Sea of Cortez winking at us in the morning warmth...

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    Along the coastline, past the evergrowing developments (no longer a nudist resort:cry:cry:cry

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    and offering the scourge of desert development....golfcourses...:huh

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    Into the town of Loreto for breakfast (the WORST machaca of the trip), and some banking...

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    and pics...before getting back on the highway....

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    #70
  11. Scottysix9

    Scottysix9 Shhh...

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    Excellent! :clap
    #71
  12. motoged

    motoged Been here awhile

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    We were sorry to not stay in Loreto and do several days of riding to places like Agua Verde, and San Xavier Mission (places I have been and wanted to have Darren enjoy), and La Purisima....where neither of us have been and which riders we met along the way consistently said "It's really pretty there...", but our guestimations led us north to ensure adequate time riding out of Bahia de los Angeles....

    We enjoyed the ride up to Mulege.....one roadside stop along the way offered a wierd sight...

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    What is even wierder....when we turned off the highway and drove in a short way....we did not notice the poor coyote up there....when we returned to the highway about 20 minutes later...we noticed it....


    But motoring on, it was nice to see Bahia Concepcion in the distance ...

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    And this area was where we had ridden earlier in the trip over to San Sebastion and San Nicholas...

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    The wind was kicking up that day...the kind of day that drowns inexperienced or gonzo sea kayakers...

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    As we were approaching Isla Requeson and its beauty, we came upon an accident where some gringo's boat had not been properly attached to its trailer and had fallen off, hitting a mexican family's car head-on...no apparent physical injury to the folks in the car, but the car was pushed in up to the front seat....

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    But Isla Requeson was as beautiful as ever...

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    Darren continued with his random drive-by shooting....:lol3:clap:clap:clap

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    Bustin' caps in the album's ass all along the way...

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    We made it to Mulege.....

    Compare this pic from the bridge over the river when we were there in early January/07....

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    With flood pics in Sept/06....

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    Serious water action, huh ???:huh:huh:huh:huh:huh:huh:huh:huh:huh:eek1:eek1:eek1:eek1:eek1:eek1:eek1:eek1



    Onwards past the prison just south of Santa Rosalia...

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    Where a guy doesn't want to spend much time :deal:huh

    And past the port town of Santa Rosalia...

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    The rest of that day was a bit of a blur through San Ignacio, where we stopped for gas and refreshments....Guerrero Negro for gas....and into Bahia de los Angeles ....with the last hour of driving in the dark....breaking one of the cardinal rules of travelling in Baja.....NEVER DRIVE AT NIGHT:eek1:eek1:eek1:eek1:eek1

    But we made it to our next home...Costa del Sol motel....

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    And that is where the next stage of the moto fun resumes....famous folks, great rides, some sun, good food, more famous people, and some margs to add that touch....

    If you like it....lick it...:lol3 :freaky :clap

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    #72
  13. Zerodog

    Zerodog Long timer

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    OK this might be a really dumb question. It seems to me that on this trip there was some serious Margarita drinking. Is the ice safe? You won't die from drinking one of these puppies in one of the small towns? And if some offer purified water ice and some don't how do you know? I want to drink many margaritas when I go down there:1drink
    #73
  14. GB

    GB . Administrator

    Joined:
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    Hepatitis B and C are your biggest risks from contaminated ice or whatever else.. Get the Twinrex (sp?) vaccine and enjoy worry free margaritas...

    Thanks Ged for the latest update :thumb
    #74
  15. Hammer

    Hammer Hawlin' aZZ

    Joined:
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    I'm followin' along, ged, gettin the Jones for Baja real bad....
    Put the 640 back together just now, but it's pretty cold to be ridin' it today...
    I need a Baja fix
    NOW
    Thanks for the continuing report
    Keep it up!
    #75
  16. motoged

    motoged Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2006
    Oddometer:
    908
    Location:
    Kamloops, BC
    The first time I ever rode into Bahia de los Angeles was in late January/95 on my 1981 R80 G/S....

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    at the end of a month-long ride all over the Baja.....I was coming out of the trail from the San Borja mission and not particularly happy to be on my slow way home.....

    I did not know what to expect at Bay of LA when I first arrived that day and I did not get a favourable impression of the place ....it was cold and windy and overcast, no one seemed to be around, and the place that sold gas was deserted....and the only place I could see that offered food only had pea soup......many strikes against that place that day.....

    "THAT PLACE" ................."THAT DAY"....these are two new concepts that should be linked up with "THAT GUY" of Gaspipe fame...


    My sentiments regarding B of LA have changed and I quite like it these days...

    Darren and I first went to Guillermo's to check out accomodation, but were not impressed with the quality of the room for the price being asked....$50 for a room that was being used for storeage....the same price as what Victoria was asking for her primo rooms at La Costa del Sol...

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    Electricity in Bola is generated and some of the accomodations in town have no electricity available after 9 or 10 pm....Victoria's establishment has 24 hour juice....a good thing...

    Victoria is a gracious host ....;

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    This establishment appears to have been built in the late 90's....it is very well kept, has a good restaurant, and is given a 3 star rating by Los Dos Pendejos Accomodation Guide...

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    Security was not a large concern for us here...:deal:clap

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    and the parking lot was part of the courtyard ....

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    and the whole concept works well....you can see the ocean, admire your bikes, and witness the arrival of new guests all from the luxury of your room's view...:clap:freaky

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    The Bahia is undergoig soem significant improvements these days....they have 2 ....count ' em....2 Pemex stations....one of them is even open and sells diesel and regular gas....and appears to also be a property of Victoria's...Go, Girl....l:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap


    The main street is being improved....

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    Victoria's restaurant is cozy and has a selection of caps on one wall behind the bar and another wall adorned with pics from folks who have enjoyed their stay here....

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    Upon closer inspection, I recognized one group photo to be that of a group of riders .....most of them being from my hometown of Kamloops, BC... These guys are hardcore expert riders ....

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    I do not know all these guys, but....

    ......on yer left is Al Perrett, in his late 60's and a Baja 1000 winner enough times to give him serious "cred" :clap:clap:deal :eek1:eek1...he is the guy who sold me my first dirt bike seven years ago ('93 Husqvarna 350 WXE)

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    Al is a Canadian legend in many ways and certainly deserves that respect....and is one of those classy guys who can hold his own with the best of them and is very humble about it all ...Darren noted that "You can't swing a cat in the Baja without hitting somebody who knows Al !":clap:clap...

    Al is currently building a place in BOLA and deserves to enjoy Baja as a second home.

    ....he has been organizing an invitational enduro ride in Kamloops annually the past few years....the "Around the Peaks" ride is a circuit that changes every year up at the Sun Peaks ski resort....and is a late September ride..

    Al looks good in pink...

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    The ride's start is easy enough...

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    and the real fun begins when the gravel ends ...

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    Some guys just love the "rocks and roots" theme


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    and some others love it all...Reid Daruda, another local great rider...never complains, but his expression tells ya a bit...

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    Al's kind of ride may often hear him say...."The trail is around here....I rode it the other day....":lol3:lol3:lol3:lol3:lol3


    But enough about Al....

    Back to the pic on the wall....the guy in front with his arm around Victoria is Robin, the ace mechanic at Al's HD dealership in Kamloops and newly back into dirt riding after being a motocrosser in a previous life....and just behind him to the right (also in stylish black) is Shawn Doddington, expert rider (ISDE) and a salesman at the HD dealership...and the guy on the far right (sorry, forgot his name)....is also a Kamloops rider...

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    Early morning ....La Costa del Sol....que bonita...

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    Our first ride out of BOLA was a half-day ride to San Borja Mission...

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    About 15 minutes of pavement and then a good road to the mission...

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    Some sand at first, but mostly the usual...

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    San Borja mission....a story unto itself....

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    More to come .....:deal:deal:deal
    #76
  17. motoged

    motoged Been here awhile

    Joined:
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    908
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    Kamloops, BC
    Quote:
    <table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" width="100%"> <tbody><tr> <td class="alt2" style="border: 1px inset ;"> Originally Posted by Zerodog
    OK this might be a really dumb question. It seems to me that on this trip there was some serious Margarita drinking. Is the ice safe? You won't die from drinking one of these puppies in one of the small towns? And if some offer purified water ice and some don't how do you know? I want to drink many margaritas when I go down there:1drink
    </td> </tr> </tbody></table>

    Hepatitis B and C are your biggest risks from contaminated ice or whatever else.. Get the Twinrex (sp?) vaccine and enjoy worry free margaritas...

    First things first:ear:ear

    In all of about 4 weeks in Baja, Darren and I did about 3 margarita events....two being mood-altering with no legal or significant health issues developing as a result....the pictures presented here in no way encourage, endorse, or promote such behaviour.....they are simply presented for your viewing pleasure and to get the odd alcoholic twitching ....and to entertain the rest of you FF's in a manner that portrays us as die-hard, intrepid , boisterous he-men types....do NOT do this at home ....do NOT encourage children to try this behaviour without first consulting with their parents/caregivers/day-care operators...and do not participate in such activities without wearing the appropriate protective gear....:lol3:lol3:lol3:lol3:lol3

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    As for health concerns....:deal

    Baja tends to have better quality H2O than the mainland, most restaurants have purified ice....and the rest of the time you take you chances....the Twinrix idea is a very good suggestion...

    Traveller's "squirts" is an activity that can be enjoyed at home as well as when travelling outside your neighbourhood.....a month before we left I developed the worst case of intestinal disruption EVER in BC....I think it was contracted in a sushi bar in Vancouver or with a clubhouse sandwich in Kamloops....

    Good luck when travelling....carry the proper medicine and a roll of toilet paper :wink::wink:

    Darren had some immodium with him and used it when in La Paz...immodium is an opium-based product (or derivative wannabe) which deals with the shits by stopping the peristaltic action of the intestine....thus bunging you up and keeping all that bacteria inside (not good)....and should only be taken after a few days of the squirts if needed....other treatments are preferable in the early stages of the problem...

    Hepatitas is quite a different problem that Twinrix should help with...

    Dr. Ged over and out:clap:clap
    #77
  18. motoged

    motoged Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2006
    Oddometer:
    908
    Location:
    Kamloops, BC
    San Borja mission....

    This young man presented himself as our guide...I wish I could remember his name....he grew up here and is a very knowledgeable fellow....he is working on restoration projects inside and outside the mission and knows his stuff...."respect...for real" ...

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    Park your ride in the shade and c'mon and take the tour:clap:clap:clap

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    Another "backside"....:lol3..

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    Some restoration of the earliest adobe mission...

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    The wood shutters and doors are new....

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    but the rest is the real thing...

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    A cistern carved out of one piece of stone....used for water ...and others for wine....

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    Wanna see inside????:1drink

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    This piece was imported from Spain and was a spout for rainwater....it was made from a pumice type stone and was relatively light in weight...

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    Darren hoping to get in a good word....

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    Some old stuff...

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    And a VERY cool spiral stairway...

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    Each step being identical, is just placed and rotated..

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    And up you go...

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    The belfrey...

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    The room with a view...

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    Looking northwest...

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    and west to the gardens...

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    and southwest to the hotspring...

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    .... and south...

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    And when I commented to our guide on the immensity of such a construction project 200 years ago...I asked how they built not only such high walls, but arched and domed roofs/ceilings without scaffolding, he informed me that they would fill the building with sand so as to raise the floor to a level which allowed construction to be done without scaffolding....THAT is a lot of shovelling:eek1:eek1:eek1:eek1:eek1:eek1:eek1:clap:clap:clap

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    So, let's go down and do some riding....

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    As we were getting our gear back on, the guide informed us of a trail that "would be fun on a bike" that could be found several kms west of the mission...."when you come to the first rancho west of here, you will see an overturned van just east of the rancho...turn right there....it will take you back to the road you came in from ...the dirt road leading to the highway back to Bahia de los Angeles...."...


    So we did....

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    The shot above was past the first bit of technical stuff...it got easier...

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    the trail almost disappeared at times,...

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    and then reappeared as a great faster ride...

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    Back to Bahia de los Angeles...for a putt around the north end of town...

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    More later...........
    #78
  19. irishdec

    irishdec Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2006
    Oddometer:
    746
    Location:
    Toronto ,Canada
    Enjoying your pics and ride report,dont stop!!!!!,(except for a smoke and a pic)
    #79
  20. motoged

    motoged Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2006
    Oddometer:
    908
    Location:
    Kamloops, BC
    Folks, about those concerns regarding margarita consumption:huh:huh:huh

    Some days a Margarita Project has certain effects on two riding buddies :1drink

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    :freaky:eek1 .....
    #80