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Discussion in 'Epic Rides' started by warp9man, Feb 5, 2013.
thats great, when do we get to see your RR?
Day 8 January 19, 2013
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We grab some breakfast so we can get out early and ride to Todos Santos today. We have 270miles today. We are all leaving at the same time but Dad and Jacque tell us we can ride ahead and they will meet us there. Dads GPS isnt that great and since they got lost in Loreto I tell him if the road signs get confusing that we will stop and wait for them. We havent been south of Loreto so we will be relying on the Zumo today (or Pattys Blackberry, lol)
Turkey Vultures spread out to catch the morning sun.
The roads are nice and twisty along the coast and over the mountains leaving Loreto. It is an amazing ride!
Once you hit the flats it becomes farm county and pretty flat.
We roll thru Ciudad Insurgentes and it is getting pretty warm. We pull off to shed some layers and are enjoying the heat of the south.
We pass thru Ciudad Constitucion and have a nice ride down to La Paz.
Coming into La Paz.
Sites of La Paz
I'm guessing this is a junk yard?
A mall in La Paz?
Even a Walmart and Sam's club. :eek1
In La Paz we know we have to stay on Hwy 1. I tell Patty to keep an eye on the road signs to make sure Dad and Jacque can figure it out when they come through. First turn is well marked and says Todos Santos. At our next turn, there are no signs indicating that you have to turn right to stay on Hwy 1 or to go to Todos Santos. Im thinking if they blow past this turn it could be awhile before they figure it out. I turn around and decide we better wait for them. Me, Patty and Dave chill on the side of the road so we are easily visible.
We are entertained watching the assortment of vehicles by. Cars with no exhaust systems. Literally smoke shooting straight down from the exhaust manifold out the bottom of the car.
A full size van so packed full of people that they had their arms hanging out every window.
The bus system seems to be that you just wait on the side of the road and watch for a bus and flag it down. We watched people jumping on the busing carrying and old school 32 TV. :huh
Checking out the local pizza delivery guys who all ride motorcycles.
After about an hour, Dad and Jacque finally arrive. They assure me they would have figured out the turn eventually.
Dad and Jacque just arriving in La Paz at our chill spot.
We all get back on the road with just 50 something miles to go. J & J tell me they are sure they can find the hotel so we speed on ahead of them.
Coming into Todos Santos the Zumo is being a little slow to update the turns, so I keep overshooting them. Patty can remember alot of the turns and her Blackberry is updating faster than the Zumo until it loses our location. Between the two of us we find the hotel without much work.
When we arrive, the hotel owner tells us we can park around back in a locked area. Im a bit worried about J & J finding the hotel so I leave Patty and Dave at the hotel to check-in while I ride back to the Hwy to watch for them.
Im riding all over and doing laps around town for about 20 minutes. I ask some kids in town if they have seen any motorcycles go by, they say no. After I past the same kids for the 3<SUP>rd</SUP> time they yelled wheelie. So, over a natural dirt tope, with a knobby, and still fully loaded with gear, I get a crap load of traction and the ass heavy bike into a oh shit type of wheelie, which of course got me some amazing applause and a few heart palpations. :dllama
I eventually find them at a Pemex in town asking for directions. I guess they had blown straight though Todos Santos and were on their way toward Cabo until they past a sign that said something like, Thanks for visiting Todos Santos and decided maybe they had drove thru it and turned back around.
We eventually all get to the hotel, Posada La Poza. This is our splurge for the trip. It is a tropical oasis! We are excited to spend the next two nights here! <o></o>
Our upstairs room has a balcony with a killer view of the fresh water lagoon and the Pacific Ocean.
We decide to paddle a row boat across the lagoon to check out the sunset over the Pacific Ocean.
Panorama of the Pacific Ocean.
Patty enjoying the sunset surf.
Can you spot the crab?
We seriously debated on taking the kayak and leaving the other couple with the row boat. Row boats suck!
It took me like 20 min to paddle across the small lagoon in this rowboat! Atleast the view was good. Well not of me, but the sunset.
The pool, hot tub and grounds look amazing.
Patty grabs a few photos as the sun sets over the lagoon.
It was really that nice.
Looks pretty inviting.
Tomorrow is gonna be great!
We dont want to leave again so we eat dinner at the on-site restaurant. OMG the food is good! Dave decides to walk to town to check out a concert in the town square tonight and the famous, Hotel California.
After dinner, all of us head down to the hot tub. It wasnt exactly hot, which was a bummer, just barely warm. John goes in to ask them if they can turn it on for us? They say its on a timer and turns off at 8pm so we can enjoy it tomorrow. :huh Thats annoying since it is only 9pm.
Up to the room for a HOT shower and we chill outside on the balcony for a while listening to ocean and an occasional owl. The hammock swing on the balcony was putting both of us to sleep. Nice end to a long day. <o></o>
Patty, you do an outstanding job of taking pics from the bike.........it's one of the high points of the ride report.....keep 'em coming Kev.....
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We actually get to sleep in for a while today. The bed is great and on this rare day, Patty actually wakes up before me. We slept with the sliding glass door open last night. The sound of the ocean and fresh air made for a great night. <o></o>
I'm still crashed out.
Patty grabs a few photos from the balcony while I’m sleeping.
View from our balcony.
Another shot from the balcony.
We make our way down to breakfast (included) and meet up with the rest of the group.
Crazy tree on the way to breakfast.
Breakfast is served to order in the restaurant and it is great. We want to relax today, so after breakfast we head down to the pool, lounge and enjoy 80 degree weather.
Trees near the pool.
More coolness....not me.....the tree.
View around the pool.
This is what I was dreaming of when I was stuck in the snow at home.
Taking a nap in the hammock didn't suck too much.
Dave was going to ride to down to Cabo San Lucas today because he has never been there. The rest of us have been to Cabo before so we don’t plan on going. When Dave gets out to his DR650 he finds he has a flat front tire. He comes to get me for assistance knowing I have patches and tools. I help him to get the wheel off. I forget what a pain it is without a center stand. Then I dig out my patches and an unopened tube of glue only to discover the glue is empty? John has made his way to us and pulls out his tube of unopened glue which is also gone? Evidently the glue evaporates or something even if it isn’t opened. Dave has a spare rear tube but not a front, so John grabs his spare tube. We get it aired up and back together. John makes a last minute decision to ride to Cabo with Dave. He is a little worried about Dave going alone.
While we are messing with the bikes, Patty and Jacque take a walk around the lagoon and out to the beach on the Pacific. When we get done, Dad and Dave leave for Cabo and I head to the beach to find Patty. The three of us relax and enjoy the beach.
A turkey vulture flew down and started picking at something on the beach so we walked down to see what it was.
We found a dead puffer fish. The vulture didn’t seem to be too interested in it and left.
Jacque headed back to the hotel while Patty and I stayed on the beach and ended up spotting some whales off shore! We decide to walk around the other side of the lagoon, just to check it out. That was a bad idea. It sucks! We walked thru deep sand forever before we get to a hard pack dirt road that heads back to the hotel.
The dirt road we came to after the hike thru the sand.
A trail just off the road as we walked back.
By the time we get to the hotel we are sweating to death and can’t wait to get in the pool.
Jacque was already in the pool and said it was cool, but nice. Patty tells me just to dive in while she tip-toes down the stairs. :huh So….yeah, it was pretty cool. Patty got to her knees and bailed. I did a quick refreshing lap and got out. We decided to go to the room and rinse off in the shower instead.
We soon decide we are hungry and want to head to town to grab a late lunch and walk around. We start looking for Jacque to let her know we are leaving. To our surprise, we find Jacque but also John and Dave up on the terrace? I’m thinking “that was a short trip to Cabo?” They tell us they got a little bit out of town and Dave’s DR650 started running really bad then it died. They said it wouldn’t restart and smelled flooded. A local guy with a truck offered to pick up the bike and take them to the hotel but they were still messing with the bike and told the guy no. They soon regretted their decision. John had to tow the DR back to the hotel with his BMW!
The 3 of them decide to eat on the terrace while we head into town. Dave has a fouled spark plug so we will try to hunt one down while we are out. We will mess with the bike after some food and allow it to cool down outside. We jump on the bike, ride around town for a minute and walk to a little pizza place (Napoli I think?). We had a really good potato pizza, salad and toasted Focaccia bread. :dg
While we were sitting there we watched a horse walk up the middle of the road.
He stopped at a corner to smell a pile of horse crap that we never noticed before. He looked around as if he was hunting for his buddy. Then some guy comes jogging up the road. I’m guessing this was the owner because the horse took off running as soon as he seen him.
We don’t see that every day!
Patty pulls off some Spanish to ask our waitress where to find motorcycle parts. She points out a few places on the map for us. Patty decides to walk down the street looking for the parts store while I go grab the KTM. We find a few places but nothing is open since it is Domingo (Sunday). Patty spots a small group of local guys all dressed in MSR gear and motocross boots. We stop and try to ask if they have a spark plug. They don’t speak English and Patty isn’t sure how to say “spark plug” in Spanish, After pointing to the motor and some other retarded hand signals I realize I have a picture of a spark plug on my phone (I have a DR service manual pdf). Sweet! Patty shows them the photo and asks if they have one. Nope. Damn. Oh well. We have a good time sort of talking to them. They are amazed with KTM. They point to 990 decal and then point to the motor and say “engine 990?” as their eyes bug out of their head. They say “muy grande!” I grin and say “si”. They pet the carbon fiber exhaust tips and give me a thumbs up. The ask “wheelie?” I smile and say “si, wheelie grande”. They give me another thumbs up for my highway pegs, They thoroughly check out the GPS, dash, all my switches. Then they ask “fast?” I could do this all day, lol….”si, si, muy fast”. The last question, “cuanto?(how much)”. Patty translates 13 thousand. At the same time I’m pointing at a custom oil cooler they have fabricated on to an old Honda XL185. I give them a thumbs up.
We head back to the hotel. Dad and Dave are outside with the DR650 and say they got it fixed. They were checking out the carb and found the pilot jet sitting in the float bowl! Sweet! Screwed it back in, cleaned off the fouled spark plug and the DR was running good again.
We headed up to the rooftop terrace to watch the sun set over the lagoon then headed down to the bar.
Not a bad view.
This is doesnt suck much either.
View of our room, top left. Dave's room is bottom left.
We found Dave at the bar and decided to grab some chips, salsa and a few drinks while we chatted about the trip. Relaxed from a few cocktails we decided to head down to the hot tub while it was actually on, lol, before 8pm. It was a nice to relax. We head back to the room, shower and chill on the balcony for a while before heading to bed.<o></o>
Day 10 – January 21, 2013
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We wake up, start packing, and then make our way down to breakfast. John and Jacque are going to leave as soon as they done eating and check out. Since we are heading back, Dad can just follow the tracks on his GPS to Loreto. We finish up breakfast and Patty heads back to the room while I check out.
We did most of our packing when we got up so we were ready to go. It takes Dave a little time to finish packing up before we head out. John and Jacque have already left. Dave wants to stop by the Hotel California. We stop for gas so we tell him we will just meet him at Hotel California when we are done. At the Pemex, Patty starts looking over our hotel bill (she does the finances) and discovers we were overcharged for our room and our restaurant bill is $174 for one dinner and a few drinks? Damn! Too much to ignore so we find Dave and tell him we have to go back to the hotel. He will hang out in town to sight see until we are done. The hotel figures out the problem and corrects the $100 over charge. We head back to find Dave and finally get on the road after 11am!
Heading out of Todos Santos.
The temps are perfect and beat the hell out of snow!
We pass thru La Paz and head north.
La Paz has these really interesting roads that short cut across an arroyo. There are also some mini motocross tracks down in the arroyo.
I'm thinking this became a popular short cut so the city decided to put a traffic light in.
I cant believe they have covered parking? :huh
It's getting warmer.
We stop to grab lunch in Ciudad Insurgentes.
There is a pretty strong millitary presence in Insurgentes.
We wanted pizza but it appeared to be closed so we ate some tacos across the street.
While we are having lunch we see a family come out of the pizza place. Damn! They come out and start huddling and pointing at the KTM. Of-course we keep an eye on them. A younger girl in the group goes over and poses in front of the KTM while an older guy takes a photo of her. She goes over to inspect his photo. She must not like it because she goes back over to the KTM and poses for another photo. Awesome! The poor DR gets no love.
<o>Patty managed to get a crappy photo of the KTM paparazzi. :dllama</o>
We are soon heading east thru the mountains with the amazingly beautiful and fun, twisty roads.
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I love this part.
Yep...still having fun.
This goes on and on and on.
Who do I to.....
This is the whole reason you ride a motorcycle in Baja!
We get into Loreto and check back into the same hotel, Posada del Cortes.
We decide to take a walk down to the Condo we stayed in last year to ask the owner about making arrangements to going out to see the islands tomorrow. He sends us to one of his favorite, Francisco Davis. We are having a good time reminiscing about the other parts of town and walk around for a couple hours.
We get back to the hotel then get a message from home about a big problem with our daughter! Argh! We end up on the phone and email for over an hour dealing with it. Jacque is also trying to find out what our plans are for tomorrow. We tell them we are going on a boat to the islands; they are all invited because the price for the boat is the same up to 6 people. I guess the hotel owner wants to know a bunch of information about who we are going with, etc, to make sure we are well cared for so, Jacque is doing a relay back and forth. We are pretty stressed out about things at home so I’m being pretty short with Jacque.
We walk to grab some dinner so we can chill for a bit. The food wasn’t very good but at least we are more relaxed.
We stop and talk to Dave, John and Jacque. We fill them in about our plans tomorrow and see if they want to come. Dave says he wants to go but J&J say they are tired and are going to relax tomorrow.
Back to the room and head to bed.
Day 11 January 22, 2013
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We head to breakfast then walk down the Malecon to meet Francisco at the marina at 9am. He is taking us around Coronado Island.
Walking down the Malecon to the Marina.
The marina and Lighthouse.
We all get on the boat and make our way out of the marina. It is a great sunny morning and the water is like glass. We have a great time just boating thru the Sea of Cortez.
Great way to spend the morning!
We are chatting with Francisco about his life. He was born and raised in Loreto. He loves it there. His mom was a native Indian and his dad was from England. He has like 12 siblings and says half of them are short and dark skinned like their mom and the other half are tall, blue eyed and light skinned. The Calle Davis street in town is named after his family. He said just 10 years ago they were a real small town and you could buy beachfront property for like 10K and now it is over 100k. He has two kids and dreams of buying small cabin cruiser when he retires so he can spend 2 months on the water. He loves to fish! I could keep going but it will be a novel, lol.
This is awesome!
He takes us close to the island and starts showing us all the sites. He soon points out a school of Dolphins so he takes us over to go play with them. It was pretty cool. We have never been so close to Dolphins. They were hunting but would come play with the boat too. We would have one Dolphin on each side of the bow just under the surface, riding the bow wake. We got some great video that I will try to post.
We get done watching Dolphins and head back to the island.
The water is so clear!
Francisco points out a ledge with some Blue-footed Boobies . We were looking into bright sun so we couldnt see their blue feet.
We motored on to stinky point where the sea lion colony hangs out. They were pretty entertaining and barked louder as we got closer. Some of the big old males didnt seem to are and just laid there like whats up? while the young ones jumped into the water.
The smell is almost nauseating!
<o>yep...he knows how to relax..</o>
He then shows us Eagle rock and monkey head rock.
He joked and said eagle with flies on its head.
We then come to several white sandy coves. Francisco takes us into one of the coves. The water is amazingly clear and looks like the Caribbean. I will let the pictures speak. I feel bad that Dad and Jacque didnt get to see all this.
<o>Coming into Coronado Island</o>
We could seriously camp here!
This Pelican landed on this boat as it was coming in. I guess he decided it was easier to fish this way,
Patty visited the Banos and funny thing was there was 2 pit toilets inside? Bring a friend and watch each other?
We walked to the other side of the island to check it out.
More rocks but perfectly clear water.
We had to check out some of the shells.
Patty chillin with her feet in the sand.
These skulls were everywhere along the tide line? They looked like turtles? Any thoughts?:huh
A dead baby Stingray we found.
Patty had to demonstrate how clear the water was by standing in it.
We walk back over to the other side of the island where we landed.
DR Dave was determined to swim in the beautiful Sea of Cortez.
He said the water was about like Lake Michigan in July or August.
We have to get ready to leave.
We can stay as long as we want but eventually have to go back. We happily pay Francisco $100 plus a tip. We walk back to the hotel to drop some stuff off so we can go eat.
We run into J & J on the street. They say they have been having a good time walking around town. Jacque isnt hungry so shes just going to take a nap. Me, Patty, Dave and Dad go grab some lunch. We have some great food and have a good time chatting about the trip.
We head back to the hotel. Patty heads up to the rooftop terrace to chill.
I talk with Dad for a bit then head up to the rooftop and find Patty asleep on the couch. Sweet! She has the right idea. I kick back in a chair and put my feet up.
Dave comes up and I point out one of the lounge chairs in the sun. Soon all 3 of us are napping on the terrace. Eventually the sun starts getting low and it gets cool enough to wake us. We go down to see what Dad is up to and find him wrenching on Jacques BMW. When moving it he discovered her
steering head is loose. Dad and I work on tightening up her head bearings. <o></o>
Later Patty and I hunt down the little pizza place we ate at last year but only to find it closed so we head to the little Italian place in the town square instead.
We go back to the hotel and talk with everyone about the ride plan tomorrow. We are only going to Mulege so we debated going up to the San Javier Mission but we have never spent time in Mulege so we decide to pass on the mission. Patty and I have been there before so we are happy to check out Mulege. We actually have reservations at the Playa Frambe Lighthouse Resort. We found the place last year when we were checking out some of the dirt roads and decided we wanted to stay there.
Back to our room to chill for the night and head to bed.<o></o>
Day 12 January 23, 2013
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We all go grab some breakfast and head out on the short ride to Mulege today. We have great weather and enjoy the twistys especially along the Bahia Conception. Patty took lots of photos on the fly, so enjoy.
We peel off the highway onto the dirt turn off for Playa Frambe Lighthouse Resort. Me, Patty and Dave arrive at the turn off before John and Jacque. I tell Dave he can go ride around and check out the beach area and we will meet him at the Lighthouse. It shouldnt be too hard to spot, lol.
I'm chillin waiting for J&J to arrive at the turn off.
Dave out expoloring the area.
Dave hits this beach and loops back on the hwy to us.
J & J arrive and after missing our turn we arrive. Dave has not arrived and we figure he is out checking the place out. We get checked in. As a surprise bonus the owner has informed us that since we rented 2 casitas (they ea have 2 bedrooms) that he is throwing the Lighthouse room in for free. It is very cool but much smaller. Dave will probably dig it rather than sharing a room with J&J as planned.
Heading into the resort.
Pulling up to the resort.
View from our bedroom.
View from our room.
The resort lighthouse.
View from the top of the Lighthouse.
Looking toward our room.
The guard dogs...
It is still somewhat early in the day and we want to go into Muelge to check the town out but Dave has not arrived? I jump on the KTM to go find him. I have a good time racing the now empty KTM around the beachfront. I cant find Dave and head back. Apparently just after I left, Dave arrived, lol.
The resort has a 4-5 deep gravel entrance that is about 80 long. Me and John make our way out of the entrance and are waiting for Dave and Jacque but they dont come right away and John turns back to see what is up and I follow. Jacque has wrecked pretty hard in the deep gravel. She was pinned by the BMW and Dave had to come lift it off her. She ended up with gas all over her due to her fuel cap coming off (Pemex attendants evidently didnt get it on correctly). I jump on her BMW and ride it out of the gravel for her. I tell Patty, no wonder she had a hard time. Her bike is awful off-road. The ergonomics are definitely made more for road riding. (Note: Later Jacque found out she broke 2 ribs in that fall).
We all ride into Mulege and stop at a restaurant to eat. While there we run into fellow ADVers riding DRZs on their way to Argentina (thread- Venturing South on DRZ's). They sat down to eat with us while we gave them a few tips on places on places to stay further south. They tell us some funny stories of their adventures so far. Sounds like they will have a good time. <o></o>
We check out the DRZ's
To be continued......
great report! subscribed!
i've been drooling for a 990 for some time now and this report might have just pushed me over the edge.... curious about what your height & inseam is?
very tempting, and your wife is a trooper for sure!
Day 12 continued.....
Me, Patty and Dave are going to go ride around town while John and Jacque opt for a walking tour. We go thru town then follow the river out to the lighthouse. The last hurricane (late 2012) really beat the hell out of the riverfront area.:dog
Riding around Mulege.
It is always interesting checking out the towns.
Riding up to the Mulege River. You can see the road has been worked over.
Huge chunk of concrete are just ripped apart. :eek1
These little Palm trees were completely underwater or ripped out.
There is still debris everywhere.
The road dead ends at the Lighthouse.
After the Lighthouse we head back to town, cross under the bridge and head up to the Mulege Mission.
Heading back toward town.
They have tried repairing the road..
Cool looking resort (i think) across the river.
Heading down the one way street in town.
I was worried the bike would scare the little Burro but he didn't care and the kids were cheering at us. Got to love them. Atleast they are riding something.
The owner of the Lighthouse told us the river was just 3 feet under the bottom of the bridge! Looking up and riding under the bridge, I cannot even imagine what this place looked like! Everything would have been under water. It has been several months and you can still see the damage!<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
So I cannot imagine the water being 3 feet under the bottom of this bridge.
We would be needing a snorkel right about now!
All of this was under water.:ddog
Got to love some of the buildings.
It is crazy to see the stone work on these buildings. Behind the mission there is an incredible overlook where you can see a field of lush Palm trees. It would have been cool to catch the sunset from that lookout but Id rather not ride back in the dark. We head out and ride on the other side of the river. The damage is just as bad on this side. The road takes us up to the hwy and we head back to the Lighthouse for the night.<o></o>
We arrive at the Mulege Mission.
These old buildings always amaze me. Huge blocks of stone and walls like 3 feet thick.
Stairs up to an overlook.
View of the Mission from the overlook.
Holy Sea of Palm Trees.....
Now that is a door..
Time to head out.
Another interesting house with mulitple Palm trees growning thru it.
It is very evident the destruction that came thru here but they don't get a bail out from the government.
Atleast there is enough road left for the motorcycle....
We pull off the hwy toward the Lighthouse.
Dad and I are really into solar and wind energy and get to chat with Bob (the owner) about his off-the-grid system. He has a pretty amazing set-up. Patty and Jacque head to the beach to check out the unlimited variety of sea shells. Just mounds of the things. Bob uses the shells to landscape with and it looks pretty cool. <o></o>
It gets dark rather early so Dad, Jacque and Dave go play some cards in the main Casita. Patty and I head to another casita, throw on some music and have a great time playing Air Hockey. Patty gets so into it that after an hour or so she ends up with a blister
We eventually head to bed. We are happy they have good beds. A small noisy clock in the room is keeping me awake no matter where I put it. Patty finally says just put it in the mini fridge. Sweet! Now I can sleep!<o></o>
Little do I know it yet.... but tomorrow is gonna be rough!!!
Hello, my inseam is 34" and im 5'10". my 990 started out with the standard suspension which is great and I could easily touch with both feet. I ran across a guy who wanted to trade his "R" suspension so my bike is taller now. but honestly stock height is fine and it corners better with the OE suspension on the street.
Yeah im really lucky the wife enjoys riding as much as I do. sometimes I get us into some pretty technical offroad and im amazed she doesnt just bail off haha.
I have a 950 and 990 adventure and they both have pros and cons but overall its a great bike that really performs.
Good luck on your decision.
Day 13 January 24, 2013
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We wake up to an awesome morning on the Sea of Cortez.
View from the Lighthouse.
Morning view from our bedroom.
We head over to the main casita for a great breakfast.
Yum! French Toast! :dg
I tell Dad that today Patty, Dave and I are going to take a dirt road up to Bahia De Los Angeles. We had discussed this route earlier with ADVer Mike (back in San Ignacio). Dad and Jacque should be good to stay on the highway back to Bahia De Los Angeles since they have been there before. <o></o>
After breakfast I give the noisy KTM chain a little love. In typical fashion it takes forever to actually leave because we all keep talking, lol.
My added taller suspension won't allow me to spin the rear wheel with the center stand down.
Dad works on repairing some electrical that got snagged.
Patty having a good time chatting with Bob.
Now I get to chatting with Bob....
Got to say goodbye to Bob....
On the way thru Mulege Dave wants to stop and take a photo of the Tourist Information sign.
I'm not quite sure what kind of tourist they are trying to attract but it is effective advertising...
We make our way north thru Santa Rosalia then Dave and I motor ahead for our anticipated long day. Here's a few of Patty's pics along the way.
Riding thru Santa Rosalia.
Climbing out of Santa Rosalia. Sweet!
We stop for fuel in San Ignacio.
We stop again in Vizcaino to top off on fuel and while we are grabbing fuel we spot a group of 4, well set up KTM riders also heading north. We dont know it yet but we will meet them again later today. We skip lunch and decide we will snack on all the food we carry, once we hit the dirt road. We continue north toward Benito Juarez and make our planned turn off onto 18 toward El Arco.
We dont know this now but evidently we could have taken a short cut from Vizcaino right to El Arco, instead of taking hwy 1. Damn
.that would have saved a ton of time!<o></o>
Day 13 continues.....
As soon as we turn onto 18 we notice it is dirt? Mike had mentioned, if I remember correctly, that the road was paved almost to El Arco? Hum
I soon come across some asphalt moguls buried in the dirt. OK, so it was paved at one point in time. I wonder if the road has deteriorated in other places since Mike had been here. We are still excited for the new scenery.
Why do they alway scatter at the last minute?:huh
<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o>Poor Dave has to ride in the dust...</o>
<o>The road is generally good with a few washouts on the shoulder every now and then. </o>
<o>We make our way thru El Arco, just a little ranching area with a few buildings and some cows. The road is now getting into sections of sand. Happy I have the 908 on the rear instead of the Scorpion! The sand goes back and forth between hard pack with sand on top to deep sand ruts. </o>
<o>Riding single on the KTM would be no problem at all and actually fun. Riding two up, loaded down we total around 1000lbs. :eek1 This is giving me a good workout with a few tense moments keeping it in control. </o>
<o>The scenery is amazing! The road constantly changes from varying degrees of sand, hard pack and dirt moguls.</o>
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Sorry it is loud.
Cemetery in El Arco?
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<o>We stop to grab a bite to eat and check out some big cactus. </o>
<o>I decide to let a little air out of the rear to increase traction a bit. </o>
<o>Coming into El Progreso.</o>
As we come into El Progreso we see a gasolina sign. I know I will be cutting it close on fuel to make it to the Bay of LA even with some of the spare fuel I carry and decide to stop. Patty asks an older woman outside if they have gas. She says yes and points for us to go around the house.
Her husband comes out and starts filling up his old coolant bottle. Dave grabs one gallon for the DR and I get 2 gallons for the KTM.
The best part
.watching the old man dump fuel into the KTM while sucking on his cigarette with huge piece of ash about ready to fall off. His face is literally 1ft from the vapors swirling around the funnel.
Im hoping to hell he doesnt blow the KTM up.
We are lucky and the KTM survives unscathed. Four hundred Pesos later and we are on our way.
We have to back track a bit because we over shot our last turn. We want to go out to San Francisquito it is too late in the day and we will be pushing daylight just to get to Bay of LA.
</o><o>When we turn around we take a short cut over to the road heading north. This road is just a two track road so I have to pick a rut. This is a very narrow Jeep type road with assorted large cactus very close to the road edge. </o>
<o>Riding single this would not worry me at all, however
wrestling 1000lbs makes me wonder just how painful it would be if we eat shit on this road. It wouldnt matter which way we fall
.we would be a bloody pin cushion. As it is we make sure to keep arms and legs tucked in close to avoid the random cactus overhanging the road. Luckily the road isnt very long and we are back on the wider main road.</o>
<o>We come across a bunch of graffiti on some large rocks and wonder who comes all the way out here to write on the rocks?:huh A bit after the large boulders we make a right turn onto a downhill section with a fair amount of Baby head size rocks similar to riverbed. The rocks are firmly planted, it just takes a bit of effort to muscle the KTM around and pick a good line. </o>
<o>I guess this is the technical section Mike was telling me about? Luckily it is a shorter section. We have been riding in the dirt for over 70 miles and have another 60+ miles to go. This is giving me a serious workout and I feel like Im in a slow motion desert race.</o>
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The tech section. In this picture it really doesn't look like much.
I start to notice a pattern. Every time I see the road split off but it doesnt show on the GPS, this means you are going to hit some obstacle in the road but all the locals have made a detour around it. It never fails!
It goes like this
.see the split
.grab a handful of brake to avoid death only to have Patty pile drive into me!
This is a sample of what you hit if you when you see the impromt-tu detour. This doesn't do it justice but we about pulled off a two-up stoppy when I just barely saved it! It would have been a bad G-out. I needed every inch of the dual front disks!
Patty is getting blisters on her hands from holding on over the rough terrain.
<o>We stop for a minute at Bahia San Rafael to grab a drink and a quick snack. It is almost dusk and we need to get going. </o>
<o>Riding an unfamiliar dirt road in the dark especially when very tired will not be ideal. I know if Im tired, poor Dave is probably pretty beat too. Hes probably wishing about now that he had stayed on the highway with John and Jacque. </o>
Bahia San Rafael
I start thinking we havent seen a single other vehicle on this road? It would suck to break down out here. After a bit we stop to check on Dave and get to see an incredible red sunset.
It is starting to sprinkle out but it is not bad and we dont want to gear up due to it is getting dark and we need to get moving. The road has been non-stop dirt moguls. Riding single I would just bust over these but fully loaded I have to go easy.
It is getting pretty dark. We stop to make sure Dave gets around this bit.
Here is a video Patty was able to get. Turn volume down. I'm amazed she rides with me on this stuff.
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It continues to get darker and the sprinkle has now turned to light rain. We are only 3 miles from town and are determined to just get there. We look back or stop every little bit to make sure we see Daves headlight. He is hanging back to avoid our dust. We do our normal look back and dont see a headlight. We stop and wait for a couple minutes because we cant see over the terrain very far. Dave never comes. We turn around to go find him.
We go a surprising distance and no Dave
this is not good. He shouldnt be this far back? Then we see a red light in the distance
.this is not good! I should see a headlight not a taillight and the taillight is on the ground! Shit!
We get to Dave, his bike is on the ground but he is up walking around. It is dark out now and hard to see anything. Patty and I grab a flashlight to check on Dave and the bike. Dave says hes ok but thinks his thumb needs stitches. Patty worked in Home Health Care for years and checks it out.
His glove is on but is ripped open. She shines the light on his thumb. From the first knuckle toward the tip, the skin is peeled backward exposing the underside of his fingernail! He definitely needs medical attention!
The DR is on its side in a pool of oil. It has busted open the crankcase! Shit! Everything is just bent to hell! :eek1We ask Dave what happened. He says he just smacked something hard then lost control.
We feel bad. I know Dave must be exhausted, its dark, raining, he is hurt pretty bad and his bike is seriously messed up.
Patty and I make a quick plan. Patty gets the first aid kit and puts a bandage on Daves thumb. We dont want to leave him alone so Patty will stay with Dave while I ride into town. We pull the saddlebags off the KTM so they will have something to sit on and I can ride faster without the extra weight. I take off and head toward town. Not too far down the road I see a small pickup truck coming and flag him down. Despite some language barrier, he understands whats going on and follows me back to Dave.
Me and the driver (I forgot his name) get the DR and Dave loaded into the truck. He says he cant drive his truck all the way into town because the brakes are no good. He says he will stop at his fathers house and swap cars so he can drive Dave to our hotel, then they will bring the motorcycle over to the hotel in the morning. :huhWe are a bit worried about leaving the bike with strangers overnight but it is in pretty rough shape so it shouldnt be too much of a prize. We dont have much choice anyway. They guy is familiar with our hotel so Patty and I ride ahead. He will have to go much slower on the dirt road especially with bad brakes.
As we pull into our hotel, Jacque comes out to greet us. Patty quickly summarizes the situation for her but needs to go talk to Victoria, the hotel owner, about medical care for Dave.
On the way to Victoria she passes a group of 4 guys eating dinner outside. They ask how its going and she tells them, things could be better. She briefly explains Dave wrecked, bike has a busted case and Daves hand is pretty messed up. They tell ask if we were riding with a DR650 because they think they seen us earlier in Vicaino. She recognizes their bikes too. They offer to help us if we need anything.
Patty finds Victoria and tells her Dave needs a Doctor or medical clinic. She promptly says she can call the doctor and he will come to the hotel! Wow!
Patty comes back to fill us in. I have unloaded the bags and decide I will ride back up to the dirt road to check on Dave. Maybe I can just put him on the KTM and bring him back. I ride around but never find them so I come back.
When I arrive there is a Policia truck at the hotel? He has somehow been alerted to the situation and came to see what was going on. He doesnt speak or understand any English so we end up just kind of standing around and waiting for Dave.
The guy pulls up in a big SUV with Dave. We unload his soft bags and other gear that is in the truck while the driver explains to the police what happened. The doctor has arrived and they head into Jacques room to check on Dave. In short order they come back out and say they have to go to the clinic with the doctor because he cant fix it here. Jacque and John escort Dave to the clinic.
The youngest Doctor ever! Very cool and told Dave to just pay whatever he wanted! They gave him a total of $150usd and were very happy they took care of him late at night.
We had originally hit the edge of town at 5:45pm and after Daves wreck we didnt make it to the hotel until 6:30pm. It is about 7:30-8pm now and we are exhausted and hungry. Were relieved; J & J are taking care of Dave. We head to the restaurant for dinner. I briefly stop and talk to the guys from Vizciano and fill them in on what happened.
After dinner we go grab a shower and get cleaned up. We go back out to chat with everyone. Dad, Jacque and Dave have arrived. Dave lost his thumb nail and got two layers of stitches. He is not supposed to use his thumb for a while but the doctor said he is fine to ride. Luckily it is on his throttle hand so it should be easier on the thumb. We are definitely going to have to stay and extra day here to try and repair the DR.
<o>The guys from Vizcaino are actually fellow ADVers. Im never going to remember their names. Neduro is one of the ADV inmates. He is and ADV moderator, Paris to Dakar rider, and stunt rider! Nice! One of them is a kick butt Rally bike builder. They are from CO and TX. Come to find out they hung out in Vizcaino for lunch and then took a dirt road that cut up to El Arco. They were surprised they arrived ahead of us because we left much earlier. We definitely went the long way around!:ddog</o>
They have some bike problems as well. One of them smacked the lip of a concrete arroyo crossing on the dirt road today and it zipper split his Excel Rim. :eek1They have to try and stabilize it tomorrow. We of course start talking about bikes and business for quite some time. They are a great group of guys.
Here is our comedy for the night: So Patty went to bed 30 minutes ago and Dad is outside with me and the guys. Dad decides hes going to go to bed. He turns around and walks straight into MY hotel room with Patty sleeping in the bed, lol. Me: hey dad, that is my room. He embarrassingly closed the door and everybody was cracking up! Then I thought maybe I shouldnt have said anything because it would have been hysterical if he actually crawled in bed with her!<o></o>
And thats a wrap for today
man big props for riding that stuff sitting down!
edit: the videos are great btw!
The one time I have been able to take my wife pillion, that rough stuff was the riding she liked the most . I dumped us, low speed in the poof dust, and I think that took away her fear of falling. She got up and said " that wasn't near as bad as I thought it would be, Lets go" Thanks for keeping up the report. I'm trying to talk her into a trip next winter.
Lots of pictures missing? what happened, the last one was the sewing of the hand
Day 14 – January 25, 2013
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We wake up and make our way down to breakfast. We take our time chatting with Neduro, Chris and the rest of the guys (I suck with names).
Costa Del Sol room.
Neduro, Chris and the gang at breakfast.
We are waiting for Dave’s bike to arrive so we can start assessing repairs. We don’t know just yet whether it is repairable or even if Dave will be ok to ride?
<o>The guard dog....Scooby.</o>
<o>Dave's thumb is on the mend but still looks gross.</o>
We soon see the familiar little pickup arrive with the DR. The man driving is the father of the guy who helped us last night.
We get it unloaded, tell him thanks and give him some cash for all their help.
The handlebars are bent pretty good, brake pedal is bent up, passenger footpegs are bent up and ripped open the frame, subframe is bent, case obviously crushed in, and some melted plastics.
Passenger footpeg mount ripped up from frame.
We get to work on the engine first.
Dad and I get to work on the case.
Neduro is supervising.
It's a spectator sport...
We have some JB Weld so we knock the pieces of metal where the crankcase is crushed.
Dad’s first patch idea was a large coin. The biggest thing we have is a $10 peso. Dad tries it on the hole but quickly loses it INSIDED the case. Shit! Luckily, Patty has small hands and is not afraid to get dirty (she worked as a Service Writer at a few motorcycle dealerships). She is able to fish out the coin. We need something larger. We get some scrap metal from one of the construction workers at the hotel and cut it to size. We get it JB Welded in place and it looks like it will hold.
metal cut to size.
The patch job.
We start disassembling the throttle controls so we can try to bend the bars back.
I find a big piece of pipe and after a few tries we get them fairly straight.
We put it all back together and work on the other bent pieces.
After a couple hours we have it put back together and running. John and Dave go out for a test ride. Dave said his thumb feels ok and he will be fine to ride it home.
<o>While we are working on the DR, Neduro, Chris and crew are working on their zipper split Excel rim.
The wheel is hopping pretty bad at speed. I lend them one of my saddlebags for an impromptu bike stand. They start swapping out front tires with one of the other bikes.
They want to run the tire with the stiffest sidewall on the split rim. He is also running a Moose foam in the front. He carries some extra foam so they cut some wedges out of it to fill in the flat spot. He takes the bike out for a test run and the repairs have stabilized the hopping enough that they are able to get on the road again.
</o>They have some sweet rides..
Getting ready to head out.
We are finished with the DR repairs by noon. We are thinking maybe we can just head out? Our original itinerary today was to ride the 207 miles up to San Felipe. Patty and I can make the ride in pretty good time but with the group it took us about 8hrs on the ride down. We could possibly make it to Gonzaga Bay but Alfonsia’s may not have any vacancy (we know from experience) plus it has been raining up North so we don’t know the condition of the dirt road? We decide to just chill for the day. Unfortunately Costa Del Sol is booked tonight so we have to find other accommodations.
Victoria referred us to Las Hamacas, a place almost next door. It looks ok but we decide to cruise north of town to check out some of the other hotels. We ride out past the airport and along the beach. We stop in at Los Vientos which was ok and priced about $50-70usd which is much lower than what it says online(could be great if they fixed some stuff), Villa Bahia which is a hole that smells like cat urine, and there were a few campgrounds. We decided to stay at Las Hamacas because it was in town and we could still eat at Costa Del Sol. Later that night we took a tour of another hotel, Villa Vitta and we would have rather stayed there. Good prices too.
We took the time to walk around town.
Do you see the dog? :huh
This dog is trying to play with another dog that is running around down in the dirt pile. It's pretty funny to watch them antagonize each other.
The other dog playing and running in circles to piss off the dog on the roof.
We talked to one of the locals getting ready for the Bahia 200.
Yeah that would be a good time. He shows us his uncle's ride.
We end up taking a tour thru the local cemetery. We can’t figure out why it always stinks in this part of town? We are thinking they don’t embalm the dead bodies out here and wonder if that is what the smell is? :huh
Old signs in town.
New signs in town for the race.
We spend the rest of the day kind of bored due to it raining off and on.
Sitting at Las Hamacas.
The facilities. Notice the shower rod is just drilled into the concrete wall....
John watching it rain.
We head down to Costa del Sol for dinner and notice they are setting up for a large group. Victoria said a group of 30 is staying the night.
Costa del Sol's chips and salsa are awesome!!!!
Chillin in the restaurant.
Outdoor dining set up for the group.
A few trucks and a herd of motorcycles start to arrive. <o></o>I go outside and start talking with two of them. They are on an organized expert ride that cost $2500 per person! They tell me some of the bikes had problems or wrecked today. Me: “where did you guys ride from today?” Guy: “we came down thru Los Arcos and El Progresso on the dirt road.” Me: “oh…ok. My wife and I rode it two up yesterday.” Guy: “Whatever…(in a fuck-off tone, I’m guessing he’s in a bad mood or didn’t believe me?)” Umm…ok? The same guy is talking about using JB Weld to try and fix a hole in his radiator so he’s had a bad day. I’ve tried JBW on radiators before and never had it hold for very long but I hope he has better luck. I decide to leave the guys and head back to the more cheerful, Patty.
<o>Our hotel for the night.</o>
<o>Entrance to the hotel</o>
Our room is up here.
View across the street from the hotel
We walked down to check out this place.
They have a pool and hot tub but neither of them open until March. Rooms are 550 or 650pesos depending on the room. We wish we would have stayed here.
They had an on-site restaurant also.
We head to our room for the night and look forward to heading out tomorrow.<o></o>
Hey Vintage, thanks man. its more work to do a report than the actual ride
thats funny, the wife likes the dirt routes and tries to plan our rides to include as much as possible. she says thats when we see the cool stuff
haha thats called a cliff hanger. ok so there more pictures posted now.
Day 15 January 26, 2013
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We wake up to Dad knocking on our door at like 6:30am. They say they are about ready to go. I tell them to just go ahead and we will catch up with them. We hear them leave about 7am. Im awake now so we go ahead and start getting ready to go. We ride down to Costa Del Sol for breakfast and find John, Jacque and Dave are just finishing up. John and Jacque say they are going to leave. We are sure to catch them since they will be hitting the dirt road up to San Felipe so we are in no hurry. Dave mentions that he wants to hang back and ride with us. However, Im a bit nervous about this. I tell Dave that I would prefer him to ride with John and Jacque, that way if his bike has any problems John can help him and I will be coming up behind them and I also think the slower pace will be easier on his injuries.
Dave takes some pics of the crabby group riders as they leave Costa del Sol.
<o>This is not my cup of tea...</o>
Patty and I head out about 9:30am.
Not a bad misty morning..
It is sprinkling already and the clouds to the north look ominous. Patty puts her rain gear on while I opt for the wait and see approach.
Leaving the Bay of LA
I see the rain coming down ahead. In a short distance I end up pulling over to put my rain gear on too. LOL.
Its not keeps changing between a mist, sprinkle and light rain. Its kind of a nice change. I cant say that I purposely ride in the rain very often but out here it is very nice. The rain makes it smell like wild sage and there have been rainbows all morning.
Coming to our turn off to highway 1.
Heading North on hwy 1.
We make it up to the dirt turn off for San Felipe. We can see the John and Jacque a short distance down the dirt road but they are stopped. That isnt a good sign. The rain is coming down harder now. The road is not good and the mud is very slippery. The loaded KTM is a handful on this stuff. We make it up to J & J and see Jacque went down.
Jacque after the wreck..
The snot pile...
The road actually looks pretty good but riding it is another story.
Patty tries to demonstrate..
A better example...it has sections that suck you in.
The Bimmer got dirty.....:ddog
I found a firm spot..
Jacque and Patty walking back...:fyyff
You look at the road and think it looks firm and has great traction. It's hard to imagine what the reality was.
There is no way their tires are suited for this stuff and even my 908 isnt great. They say they are going to have to change plans and head to north on Hwy 1. I wonder if maybe Dave and I can continue on the dirt. I have Patty jump off and I take the KTM for a quick spin down the road to see if it gets any better. I can do it alone but it will be a workout but two up there is no way.
I tell Patty it is not a matter of if we go down but rather how many times. So we all opt for hwy 1.
<o>J & J stop to put more rain gear on.</o>
We just plan to ride as far as we can and stay the night. Its kind of nice because we have never been up this way. Its nice new scenery and better than I expected. We climb up and ride atop the mountains for quite a while. The rain comes and goes all day but the skies are very cool.
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<o>I'm loving this!</o>
This skies and scenery are awesome!
We pull off in Vicente Guerrero at a little pizza place to grab some lunch. There must have been huge amounts of rain up here and its still raining.
To be continued...