Bajalamadingdong

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by BRUTSQD, May 28, 2014.

  1. Jenn

    Jenn praise seitan!

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    That lake bed is dry ALL THE TIME, esp this time of year. It might get a little moist in rainy season but... when is that?

    There are well worn roads across it - you can see them on Google maps satellite view - and there are signs all over it pointing you to Canon de Guadalupe, even signs in English that say "hot springs."

    And it's super nice - grippy soil, not thick and dusty like the road.

    When I had gone to Canyon de Guadalupe the first time 10 years ago, it was in a friend's 4x4 truck so we had NO problems flying along. Took the lakebed on the way out.

    My trip in February - we went in on the road and I regretted it. I thought it would be "interesting" for my riding companion and after going out on the lakebed, we spent a LOT of time riding around on the lakebed. We went all the way to Tecate on the lakebed!
    #41
  2. BRUTSQD

    BRUTSQD 2 scoops of stupid

    Joined:
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    Dammit!!!! Love the pictures! They look very familiar :) Next time I'll take the lakebed... Admittedly I didn't do the greatest recon beforehand and once I was there I was out of luck for data reception.
    #42
  3. Jenn

    Jenn praise seitan!

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    Well there's always next year for a revisit!
    #43
  4. BRUTSQD

    BRUTSQD 2 scoops of stupid

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    Woke up nice and early, packed up and headed out. We talked to Juan(the camp host) and Phil about which route to take on the way out. We couldn't get a difinitive answer on the way South to San Felipe so we played it safe and took the washboard hell road back north to hwy 2. Baja is known for it's silt which has been rumored to make big bikes disappear never to be seen again, don't particularly want to chance it this early into the trip.. From hwy 2 we'll cut over to Mexicali and then South on 5 to San Felipe.

    A few parting shots..
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    Saw our first questionable roadside taco shop..
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    Absolutely fantastic! Gotta love the cane sugar mexican coke as well, tastes way better then our corn syrup subsidized bullshit.
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    Stopped at a gas station after breezing through yet another remarkably easy military checkpoint. As it is now mid morning there's still some unfinished business I had to take care off so I wandered over to the clean and relaively new bathrooms. Here I was faced with a quandry... You have to pre-pay for toilet paper. I pondered my food intake over the past 24 hours and decided to go with 3 pesos worth in an effort to minimize the chance of doing a waddle of shame back to the TP machine.
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    Luckily, 3 was more then enough as it even afforded me the chance to properly blow my nose with the extras. But I digress...

    We jumped back on the bike and rode through the dry heat to San Filepe. Before pulling into town I noticed a stand alone fireworks shop, YES!!!!! A little too hot to stop so I'll grab some at the next spot. We roll into town, find a cheap place to stay with a pool and proceed to cool off for a bit before walking to the main drag.
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    There were some, ahem, healthy ladies obviously partying for a bachelorette party. I'm not too proud to say I may have got a cat call or two..
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    Back at it again, after the success of the last taco cart we had to try it again.
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    The Phoenix approved as did I. The food down here is phenominal!
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    Welcome to Mexico, where you can be your own kickstand!
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    A couple cocktails at the local gringo bar..
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    Left my ADV calling card..
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    After the sun goes down in San Felipe, the entire town comes to life and crowds the main drag next to the beach. Live music, food carts, loud music and louder music. Loved the feel of it.
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    One more fish taco before passing out..
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    And I'm done..


    UP NEXT: The coastal road to Alfonsinas.
    #44
  5. Max Wedge

    Max Wedge ADVenture mowing

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    :clap Loving it!:freaky
    #45
  6. twisted-hog

    twisted-hog Been here awhile

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    Wet Coast, Vancouver BC
    I'm getting too much work done, you need to post more...... :lol3
    #46
  7. Rocketgrrrl

    Rocketgrrrl Shut up and Ride!

    Joined:
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    Victoria, BC
    Love your posts thanks for doing this!!!!! I am just LMAO, and I was there, it was a blast to ride with you and it's super fun to relive it!!!!!
    :clap:rofl:clap
    #47
  8. borscht zanetti

    borscht zanetti Pura Vida ! ... eh?

    Joined:
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    Castlegar, BC Canuckistan
    :freaky

    Great stuff ! Not only am I enjoying being along, but I am doing research for my own solo trip and would love to know the names of places you stay and comments/cost if you could be so kind?
    #48
  9. BRUTSQD

    BRUTSQD 2 scoops of stupid

    Joined:
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    P: THERE SHE IS!!!! I was wondering when you were going to finally show your face! Feel free to throw your 2 cents in as well, it's only fair considering you're in half the pictures. Glad you're enjoying!

    Zanetti: Absolutely, I'll try to post names and info if I'm thinking of them as we go, otherwise by all means let me know if you have any questions. Baja is amazing.
    #49
  10. BRUTSQD

    BRUTSQD 2 scoops of stupid

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Sacramento, CA
    Once again, up early before the heat and out the door. Today we hug the Sea of Cortez South for Alfonsinas, another Baja institution.

    It's already hot as balls.
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    Rode for a bit and stumbled across yet another Baja instution. CowPatty's! Might as well grab a quick cocktail.
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    Probably one of my favorite pictures...
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    Smiley dogs that I didn't pet
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    Ok sorry.. Had some fun with the camera there.. Back to the road.
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    For all of those reading this RR and making notes for their next trip, pay attention as this is an important one. I'm going on record to say this place had the best fish tacos of the entire trip. That's saying something as the fish tacos are by and large pretty amazing all over the place. We almost missed this place but flipped a U-turn to stop by. The owner was literally right in the middle of jumping in his boat to go grab more fish for the restaurant and was nice enough to postpone his trip to grill us some tacos. If P want's to chime in here she's more then welcome to but we both agreed they were the best we had despite being by far the most simple. The flavor was just fantastic. I'm getting clinically depressed even thinking about them. Cool views and cold beer as well, great spot.

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    Back to the road.

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    Finally we pass the last piece o cake yet macho security checkpoint and pullinto Gonzaga Bay, home of Alfonsinas. We go up to the maitre d and ask if they have a room, he tells us "No, we're full, give me 30 minutes and I might have a room for you."...... ok.. Sure enough 30 minutes later we check back in and are shown to our room.
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    Ran into a couple hooligans, Ben(BenPort) and Justin from Oregon who were beating up their beautiful tigers riding dirt on street tires. They had just come up from Coco's corner and were on their way back North. Cool guys. What made them even cooler, aside from riding dirt with street tires and having beards.. Was the Baja stickers they had made for the trip in response to their friends teasing them about their man-trip. By far the funniest sticker I saw during the trip, good good stuff. I'm still super bummed I didn't ask for one..

    Justin putting a sticker on P's pannier
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    Love it. I wish I had this on a t-shirt. Ben tell Justin I'll pay handsomely
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    Aaaand at it again. Can't leave the beer and tacos alone.
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    Gonzaga bay is a trip, it's a hideaway for expats complete with air strip and pemex station. Each beachfront house has some kind of goofy vehicle, sand rail, golf cart or airplane parked right in front of it. At night you wind up drinking tequilla with the locals at Alfonsinas bar, everyone knows each other. Funny little microverse down here.

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    Had dinner that night with the locals which consisted of things from the menu and fish that a couple of the guys caught that day from the bay. Had a few beers with a couple of guys on tricked out XR650's, Mike and Dirk, great guys. Side bar: according to Dirk, the maitre d does indeed pull the same sold old routine on everyone and has been pulling the same thing on him for years.

    The two guys had some pretty good stories from the years they have been coming down and riding Baja, one in particular involved Mike having an unusually bad wreck on the trails. Apparently he limped it home with a sore neck before getting an xray a couple days later. Turns out he had been walking around with a broken C-2, or hangman's fracture, which bought him a couple of surgical screws in the neck asap. I've seen enough of these in the hospital with really bad outcomes, they're no joke. You bend over and pick up a bar of soap wrong with an unstable C-2 and you wind up like Christopher Reeves. He's damn lucky. The other entertaining part of the story is, apparently when Mike was in the hospital, Dirk and his fam had tshirts made with a picture of the xray on the front as a gag. One of those tshirts is in plain view, stuck to the ceiling at Coco's. Can't wait to see it tomorrow...


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    Good night Gonzaga Bay.


    UP NEXT: To Coco's and beyond!!!
    #50
  11. Rocketgrrrl

    Rocketgrrrl Shut up and Ride!

    Joined:
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    Victoria, BC
    OK Trevor. First I have to commend you, the RR is fantastic I am really enjoying reading it and feeling like a bit of a slacker for my lack of input thus far......but Dude REALLY your write up is so spot on, I got nothing!!!!!

    Would just add, that in fact as soon as my pannier fell off, I knew something was amiss since my bike lurched left, it just took me a bit to bring it to a controlled stop, cause I didn't know immediately what the hell had happened.

    I didn't take many pictures until we got to Coco's so I'll throw a few your way when you get there....
    #51
  12. twisted-hog

    twisted-hog Been here awhile

    Joined:
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    Wet Coast, Vancouver BC
    Ya, it's been a week when are you going to get there? :ddog
    It's not that far from Gonzaga Bay!
    #52
  13. DaFoole

    DaFoole Pacific Avenger...

    Joined:
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    BFE, SW Oregon/SF BayO'rhea
    These things take time.....:lol3
    #53
  14. BRUTSQD

    BRUTSQD 2 scoops of stupid

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
    371
    Location:
    Sacramento, CA
    Goodmorning Gonzaga Bay!

    The view from the room.
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    Started hauling the gear from our rooms back to the bikes and getting loaded up. Passed up Mike and Dirk's room who were up to the same with likely the same brain fog.

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    We said our goodbyes and ride safes and Dirk tossed me one the greatest gifts a person could give
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    Not a bad start to the day. We hit the highway which quickley turned to dirt and headed south on the road to Coco's.

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    Casa de Coco
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    Low and behold, we found Mike's famous xray shirt. Savage.
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    Awkward
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    Coco is a funny dude. Foul mouthed and filthy minded, he's truly a refined man of Baja lore. If you're not entirely sure what he's saying then he's probably making fun of you or calling you queer. Meeting him was a bit of a mind bender. I don't know that I've ever been so star struck, apparently the countless hours of reading ride reports at 3am have created quite a celebrity out of the guy in my own mind. I'm glad I met the legend.

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    Right before I left home my girlfriend made 4lbs of beef jerky for the trip. 9 days in I'm already down to this...
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    Might need to moderate my jerky consumption if I'm going to make either my supply or my colon last..

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    The road to Coco's was a little bumpy but a relatively quick ordeal, nowhere near as bad as what we were hearing. The slab however, seems to last forever. We ride to Guerrero Negro and grab a quick bite to refuel and start coming up with a plan on where were going.

    As we pull up to the restaurant there's 15 or so local riders and a sand rail carrying ice chests of beer. I have no idea what the hell these guys were saying but I liked them anyways.
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    Awesome as usual
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    Looking at the maps, San Ignacio appeares to be the logical logistical answer. We bomb straight there and start looking for places to stay. Mike and Dirk had suggested the hotel right before town that was supposed to be nice and was rumored to have it's own bar.

    Feels like a ghost town but it's a cool spot. Apparently this town is hopping during the races, but not now. Just us and the bull frogs from the local lagoon.
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    The front desk person has us pull into the back and locks the bikes behind gate and chain. This easily the most expensive place we've stayed at sofar, but after a long day on the road we didn't have many shits to give. Unload the bikes lickety-split and go grab some tacos downtown.

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    Downtown
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    The downtown square is picture perfect, quiet, quaint and not a single gringo to be found. 2 little delicious smelling food shacks are still open with plenty of locals hanging out at both. This town is adorable.
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    We make our decision were blown away by the food yet again.
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    This little sir liked the food so much he followed us a half mile up the road after P give him a steakbite.
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    Another day well-lived. Just one beer to celebrate and off to bed.
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    UP NEXT: San Ignacio to Mulege'
    #54
  15. twisted-hog

    twisted-hog Been here awhile

    Joined:
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    When I there with my Aussie Buddy just a few months ago he asked if we were brothers and when we said no,
    he did the ol'index finger thru the okay sign on the other hand :eek1
    we just laughed and said nooooooo, just friends.
    #55
  16. twisted-hog

    twisted-hog Been here awhile

    Joined:
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    Wet Coast, Vancouver BC
    That dog looks familiar, followed us around town also.

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    #56
  17. BRUTSQD

    BRUTSQD 2 scoops of stupid

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
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    Sacramento, CA
    That sounds about dead on, I think I didn't speak enough spanish to be as offended as I should have been.


    #57
  18. BRUTSQD

    BRUTSQD 2 scoops of stupid

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Sacramento, CA
    And then we were three..

    Pulling into San Ignacio last night we crossed over a lagoon that I thought might be a good photo op for sunrise. I set my alarm before I went to bed and headed out before first light.
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    Right after the bridge, there was a camp ground right next to the lagoon with camp spaces that butt right up to the water. Driving along and checking out the camp ground I notice a orangish red tiger 800 camped out with a tent set up under one of the palapas. No sign of life as it's way to early, I'll see if I can catch up with the other rider on the way out of town.

    Thought I might head into town and check out the creepy catholic church
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    Head back to the hotel to see if P is ready to grab grub.
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    Free toilet paper
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    On the way out of town we drive past the campground with the intention to try to catch up with person on the tiger but no luck, already gone. It's a small peninsula, there's a good chance we'll see this person again.

    We make tracks to Santa Rosalia to try to find the metal church made be Gustave Eiffel on the way to Mulege.
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    Another hot ride with not a lot of energy being spent taking pictures..

    We pull into the Hacienda Hotel in Mulege, take off the panniers, squeeze through the corridor, pull into the courtyard aaaand there's that damn orange tiger again.
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    The Hacienda is a cool little spot. Quite inexpensive, clean, wonderful owners and beds firm enough to maintain full c-spine precautions. Ok, the beds sucked but everything else was good. They even have wifi!
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    Enter Mike(aka: adv-Kawalski, the Englishafricanadian, Uncle bad touch)
    Turns out Mike was indeed the same guy I saw earlier this morning at the lagoon. Apparently he got an early start out of town after the bullfrogs kept him up all night.

    As soon as we pull up Mike comes out we do the usual inspection of each others bikes leaving no butt unsniffed, we all talk shop, compare notes and poke at the map. Turns out he's going the same direction we were and still had a few days left before he needed to head back North. Looks like we're three.
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    Off to the bar to grab a few beers and a bleu cheese burger.
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    Didn't take long to discover Mike's an accomplished smartass. I like this guy already. Plus, as P isn't much for beer, it's nice to have someone to pickle my liver with.

    With a decent buzz we all take a walk around town to see the sights.
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    Town bicycle
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    Meanwhile, back at the Hacienda..
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    We walk nextdoor and grab tacos from the taco cart for 10 pesos a pop, hit the grocery for more beer and head back to the hotel for the night. It's been quite the productive day; had a damn decent ride, more tasty tacos, free tp, lots o beer and picked up a new friend on the way. Only one thing left to do...
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    Goodnight Mulege!

    Up Next: Mulege to Bahia de Concepcion.




    #58
  19. Max Wedge

    Max Wedge ADVenture mowing

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    Taking notes. :clap How di d you find the places you stayed at? Fellow ADVer's or just cruise through town?
    #59
  20. Kowalski

    Kowalski Brummie

    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2012
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    Victoria/BC/Canada
    So many kind words Trevor-you forgot to mention how much better my damn Tiger is compared to that rattle box Beemer of yours.... and hey what about the part where you nearly puked yer guts up after smoking that fattie? Lol just kiddin, it was great to tag along........:beer:beer
    #60