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Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by BRUTSQD, May 28, 2014.
You two ok? haven't heard from you since June 30th.
Well, in the first post, he obviously made it down there, since that's definitely pictures of Cabo in there. But I only see one bike in the pic?
(Pseudo bump for the rest of the pics, 'cause I'm loving this thread)
Holy crap, sorry it's taking me so long. Been a little distracted, plus just got back from a ride to colorado. Now where was I...
Max Wedge: Kind of a combination, I did a fair amount of RR reading before heading down and took note of places I really I wanted to stay. But for the most part it was just taking the other riders or just meandering till something struck our fancy.
Bajaxp: We're all good, home safe and sound. Just been too busy to keep up w the RR. I'm back on it :)
Kowalski:What!? Hey, slapping boots on a runway model doesn't mean shes ready for trench warfare, same applies to your pretty little street bike modeling it's unscuffed dirt tires. And as for the cigar, for the record, I didn't puke my guts out. I was just doing my best chameleon impersonation by changing into color green and going crosseyed.
AM in Mulege.
Ever since the shitty road to Cocos I've been noticing a rattle/banging somewhere on the bike that I can actually feel in the pegs of the bike. I only hear it on bumpy terrain and being on the throttle makes no difference. After finding nothing from a quick inspection I figure I might as well start taking the bike apart as clearly the problem was a cracked frame or some other horrible injury. Before I get a chance to pull the first piece of plastic off, Kowalski comes out and rather casually observes that there's a bolt missing under the bike that might be the problem and then goes back to his tea.
I had to conceal my joy and sense of relief as my pride took a shot in the ribs over something I should have caught after scouring the bike up and down. I convince myself it's not because Mike's an engineer of some kind, it's just because he's built closer to the ground and has a better view... Ahem. Now knowing the problem, the three of us set off across town to the hardware store and to grab breakfast.
Said bye to baby kitties
Found him a new pal
And left the two to play together
New guys coming into the Hacienda as we walked out.
Walked to the other side of town and found a fantastic breakfast spot.
If it has homemade chili, you order the chili.
Easily their best photos of the trip. Breathtaking.
On the way back we notice what looks like a castle on the hill so we hike up to investigate.
Turns out it's the old state prison. We walked up and P started a conversation with the lady that takes care of the place, 15 pesos later we're getting tour of the prison.
The tour was very professional and remarkably informative from what Mike and I could discern as neither of us speak Spanish. This unfortunately also made the tour also very boring which led us to sneak off to take this picture while the tour went on.
Temperature is getting hot already, time to head back to the Hacienda, fix the bike and head to the coast.
We pack up, say good bye to the family that runs the hotel, say bye to the kitty, and hit the road. Today is a shorty ride to the coast in search of a place to beach camp. Mike pointed out a couple spot on the map that might be a good place to look and P and I had some placed highlighted as well.
2 miles out of Mulege has us on the transpeninsular highway skirting the Bahia de Concepcion passing a number of beach campsites. We pulled off at each one and found flaws at each. Some were too windy and others had way too much trash. So we keep looking.
Take a beer break before continuing.
Finally we come around the corner and find what we're looking for. Plus there's a restaurant on the beach complete w bar :)
We set up camp and head to restaurant
We arrived before dinner, started drinking, stayed for dinner and kept drinking. A couple of guys pulled up on KLRs and joined us for a few beers. I'm probably going to screw up where they're from, but I know Andy is from Canada and Dane I believe is a Kiwi that now lives in Australia. The two of them are riding from Canada to Costa Rica where they were meeting their girlfriends before flying home and shipping their bikes. Great guys.
As the beers stacked up the evening fades away and I find myself heading to bed early to sleep it off. Stellar day.
Last minute wind precautions
Goodnight Bahia de Sandflies
UP NEXT: A couple o days in Loreto, disco Jesus and a mission in the boonies
I really hope the prices in the hardware store of the "hardware obtained" pic are in pesos, tho. $31 for a 3" lag bolt?!?!?
Enjoying your RR so much that I'm starting to get some great intel for a possible trip South myself.
Thanks for taking the time and effort to recount your personal journey.
AM: Bay of Concepcion
The three of us woke up cranky this morning but cranky for different reasons. I didn't sleep all that great despite the alcohol running start mostly because of various pee breaks throughout the night and numerous bouts of leg cramps from hydrating only with beer all day yesterday. Phoenix was cranky because she was kept up all night by the dildos parked next to us with the RV who ran their generators all night long. Kowalski was cranky because he's Kowalski and thats just how Kowalski is. It's just part of his charm.
This morning I was feeling like breaking away and taking advantage of the lack of traffic cops so I departed early and agreed to meet up with P and Mike in Loreto. I stopped off and said my goodbyes to Andy and Dane and rode like an asshole all the way to Loreto.
Pull into a coffee shop for some wifi and a caffeine fix.
P and Mike show up not too long after
I'm physically out of gas and in need of tacos and a nap. P and Mike depart to find accommodations while I sit down and guard the bikes with my formidable stank. Adv bikes pass by in all directions, they're all over the town, it's cool to see the concentration down here. A couple of older guys pull up and park their 1150gs and ktm and strike up conversation. These old guys were covering some pretty aggressive miles and were just now pulling into town to try to find spot the crash for the night same as us.
P and Mike come back having found a hostel that I later recognize as the Hostel Casas Loreto I had seen in a couple RRs that I had thumbed through. We mention to the older guys what we found and they say they'll likely see us there. Great find, inexpensive and more of a cool little motel then a hostel. You get your own room, your own bathroom, your own indoor covered parking space, wifi, AC and no bed bugs. As soon as I get my key I run into my bathroom, turn on the ceiling mounted shower to cold and stand under it fully clothed to give my skanky gear a much needed wash. Perfection.
Clean and cozy
Our two new friends show up right as we step out to grab more tacos and cocktails.
There's a large outdoor shopping area in the middle of town that for foot traffic only. Lots of good little restaurants and tons of nick-knacks
Par for fish tacos in Baja would be some seriously expensive, and likely seriously inferior, tacos back in the states. I'm sure I'm missing other amazing cuisine here in Baja by being stuck on the same things but for the time being I can't get away from the fish.
Beautiful, artsy, quiet little town.
Walking back through town in the evening I poke my head in the church to see where the flashing in coming from.
Not sure why but apparently Jesus was having an led light disco dance party with music playing in the background. With a couple cocktails in my system, I was thoroughly amused by this.
Looking for a nightcap, we bump into these two strangers who just got to town.
Loreto is a must do, plenty to do, eat and see yet it's uber relaxing. Plus it's quite modern despite only having one ATM. Definitely a town worth setting aside a couple days for.
UP NEXT: Day trip to the oldest mission in Baja
Awesome trip and awesome recap!
Great RR and pics!
AM in Loreto
First thing this morning, Abel greets us with a smiling face and big pot of coffee. Love that guy, he runs a tight ship and couldn't be any more proud of his hostal. He should be, the place is exceptional. The three of us get our gear on for a ride but have already decided to stay another night for the sake of doing Loreto justice and finally picking one spot to be for a couple of days for relaxation's sake. It's easy to get wound up with trying to push for miles and forget to slow down and plug into each town. On trip advisor I read up about the old mission up in the mountains above Loreto, we're all in and that's the plan. From all outward appearances, it looks like a hell of a ride and some decent scenery.
At the same time were pushing off for the mission, the old dogs were mounting up and heading out of town. We said our goodbyes, they headed North, we headed South. Great bikes, cool guys and accomplished riders.
Immediately off of hwy 1 on to the road to San Javier, you pass an interesting looking roadhouse, the road turns to dirt and starts getting windy as you climb. Turns out to only be a half our ride or so, but beautiful and just like every other road in Baja it's full of surprises like pot holes, honkey shit and heavy equipment.
Throwing up the horns
I'm not sure how I either didn't take pictures of this or simply deleted the pictures I have, but on the road to San Javier, periodically you would have water crossings. Not deep, not muddy and no more then an inch to 5 inches deep of water. However, the algae growing on the pavement at the water crossings was slicker then snot. You could literally fall just trying to walk across it let alone drive a 600lb metal pig over it. We had been hauling ass, flying around corners and flying over the water crossings until I damn near ate shit while crossing with the bike nearly straight up. As soon as I had my near miss I slammed the brakes hard, jumped off the bike and warned the others. For the next 3 increasingly wider algae water crossings we all walked our bikes across each section as even a slow crash on snotty cement wouldn't feel great.
Alas, we arrive at San Javier.
We're all hungry, hot as balls and ready for a break from the heat so we hit one of the two restaurants in the square.
This guy had just arrived from his garden with a supply of massive peas. He kept walking by and putting peas on the table for us to try and told us where he lived if we wanted to see his plants. This man was mighty proud of his peas.
Hungry perro negro
The old man's garden
We head back, take a nap, wander around town and start looking for food. Found a fantastic little pizza place. We strike up a conversation with a table of gringos next to us, turns out the couple built and started and sold the road house off of San Javier road and suggested we check it out. They also mentioned that they now live up in Scorpion bay and should stop by if we pass through later in the trip.
This dog cracked me up.
Full of pizza and with a decent buzz, we wander around town and hit the water front.
Posing w garbage cans. Not really sure what the hell we were doing but we had a good time.
Too stuffed to breathe properly we call it an early night and hit the sack. Tomorrow morning I'm taking off solo to check out a dirt road I saw by the mission that connects through to the highway on the pacific side then ride down to La Paz and check out some stomping grounds I haven't seen in 15 years. Might also grab a beer at the roadhouse while I'm at it.
UP NEXT: Solo, sand and sweat. Loreto to La Paz.
Looking forward to the next installment
You're showing us how we will probably take our first visit south of the border.
You know, testing the waters.....
Thanks for taking the time and energy required to allow us to travel along with you.
I hope your new position is delivering. Tough stuff you deal with day in and day out at work.
Oh, and by the way, great pics. Really great pics.
OMG Trevor, your posts are freaking hilarious. I love reliving this, I can't believe the amount of detail you recall, for me it's all a blur now. Ok I'm hitting the road again tomorrow for 2 weeks. Maybe I'll take a few good pics while I'm out there, you've inspired me...you're a fantastic riding buddy!!!
...with Mexicothe food.
Everywhere else I've travelled, I lose weight. Mexico, I really seem to pack on the pounds! :dg
Great RR! It's a trip I will do next year.
Fantastic trip! Mas...mas!
Thanks for following Twisted!
Animal I look forward to your RR once you do. Baja is amazing and probably the best bang for your buck by far
Thanks P, glad to see you're coming down from could 9 long enough to read your own story
Anand7, true, but I found portion size to not be too bad. It's the booze were it's easy to get carried awah
Thanks XP and Dave, posting again shortly
Today was a day of departures, Mike had run out of time in Baja and P wanted to stay another day or two to relax and soak up Loreto. I on the other hand was still feeling itchy for miles and was also feeling the need to venture off on my own to satisfy my itch for an occasional solo adventure. Plan is, P is going to take some time then meet up w me down in La Paz to continue the party.
Abel joins us in front of his Hostal to say his goodbyes. Good dude and great place. Perfect for the adv crowd
And this is unfortunately were I part company with Kowalski as he's heading north, I'm heading south and Rocketgrrrl is heading nowhere. Thanks for everything Mike, sooner or later I'll head your way to try out your Canadian beer.
Hop on the bike and head back towards the road to the San Javier Mission. Immediately after turning on the road I pull off for unfinished business at the saloon.
I dig it
HEY!! They've got stickers!!
Remember the algae water crossings that I talked about earlier?? Here's some better pictures of the situation. This is where the shit grows.
I've done a fair amount of gnarly water crossings in Colorado where I had water up to the intakes and I've done some water crossings were the current damn near took my bike. These stupid crossings are nothing by comparison aside from the fact that the surface is slicker then ice. It's completely possible to keep is straight and slow and still wind up muffing it. Use caution my friends.
Just past the mission the road turns to dirt :)
After cruising for a while my GPS shows the road out going to the right despite it being much more traveled to the left. Might as well follow the GPS to the right and see where it goes.
I find myself going through fenced off properties next to what looks like abandoned houses with cow shit all over the place. I'm already enjoying the feeling of probably being where I'm not supposed to
Not too far past this thatch roof house the trail turns to nothing as it becomes a dried up river bed complete with deep sand. One minute I'm cruising along, the next minute the sand swallows my rear tire whole.
No side-stand needed.
After much cursing, grunting, sweating and cursing I manage to drag the bike around and fill the hole w branches, I get enough traction to get back on top of the sand and it's back where I came from. The map I'm running is clearly outdated or simply has a good sense of humor. I like riding solo fine, but not in the sand. I hate the sand. I've had some bad experiences by myself in the sand, no need to get ballsy in 100 degree heat wearing black. Looks like it's the road more traveled this time.
If you look closely you can see two dragon flies getting nasty
Another random cattle pen and thatch hut in the middle of absolute nowhere. Creepy
I hit hwy 53 and start hauling ass south. It feels great to finally get some decent air movement in the vents, the temp today is brutal.
30 miles after Cuidad Constitution I found myself in a funny spot. I had just jumped back on the pavement after a nice session of every bigrig for himself pole-position in a road construction detour to find myself pacing a decent sized dirt devil. For a minute it was traveling southbound paralleling the hwy, then as I came within 50 feet it decides to run over the hwy and I go right through it. I snap the faceshield down and hang on to the bike.. I get hit with a wall of air but the sandpaper feeling on the neck was the worst of it, the winds were no worse then a good knock coming from a bigrig on the freeway.
As soon as I come through the other side I celebrate with a selfie like a smiling idiot.
30 miles later, La Paz!!!
I pull into town, grab the first Hostel I find, pull the bike in and immediately head out to check out the water front action. Didn't get much of a chance to look at the hostel, I guess I'll check it out later. How bad can it be??
Words can't express how it feels to be back in La Paz. I used to come down here w my family decades ago on a regular basis and haven't seen the place in 15 years or go. Cool little town.
As I walk closer to the main drag, I start seeing more and more of these guys
Turns out I got in town just in time for one of the Baja races and it's completely taken over the town.
A quick burger and beer fix, the service was so overwhelmed w tables I only stayed for a beer, I'll grab food later.
Every hour the crowd doubles in size
Cop-strom. I talked to the high-school aged looking cop that rides it, he couldn't be more proud
Finally I have enough of the excitement and peel off to grab some food
Time to head back to my rather questionable hostel and try to get some sleep. I paid for the place sight unseen and wasn't too impressed during the 5 minutes that I spent checking in, hopefully I wasn't giving it a fair shake...
UP NEXT: La Paz revisited, new friends, local sights and time for a new hostel.
Boss update. But...
Erm, what's that brown fuzzy thing on yer handlebars there? Looks a bit
suspicious. Like you castrated an ewok???