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Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by ciedema, Jan 29, 2013.
Best design is on the 950RR.
Why?, all it offers is a higher sheer strength which is what Craig is looking at, I can't see why that would be a bad thing as it will cause no other trouble.
Because its the flexing of the plate acting on the bolt, not the bolts lateral strength. Think iron vs steel.
Yep. Bust bolt, replace. Irrespective of material hardness the bolt will be under the same tension, harder steel is more susceptible to bend fatigue, but is also more resistant to bend. It’s all a compromise, the KTM design is stupid hence look at the 950RR. Its side stand is welded to the frame.
Would you like more elastic with that story .. a little over the top comparison.
How about bolt done up properly with no flex allowed between casings, mounts and bolts, I little less dramatic.
Two moto Kiwis,
I would think that with all the trouble you've had with your new KTM, you wouldn't be so quick to dismiss this. If you break a case, as many have, we don't want to hear that it was the fault of the seller or improper installation.
Cool with that and not dismissing anything, but it has to be kept in perspective too.
I am not dismissing anything as we have the same kit on ours so my eyes are open but from an engineering perspective a nice snug bolt that takes out any amount of flex is not a bad thing, not trying to upset anyone (which seems to be easy here for some reason) just keep it in perspective.
As noted above, everything is a compromise so nothing it perfect and it doesn't matter who makes what there is usually room for improvement and this only comes from gear being used in the field.
Great news BDCW stepped up to offer Craig a new bolt, excellent service to say the least
I dont think youre getting it; the long bolt goes through the two halves of the engine cases with the paper gasket that sits in-between. You can put a super high tensile bolt in, above 12.9 and torque it up as much as you want, result will overload on the ally parts which will cause damage, with the inevitable loads it will fail and go off like bullet.
Tighten the wheel bolts on your car to 4x the recommended torque; the bolts will take that load stationary with no problem. Start driving like that and the wheels will snap the studs off and pass you on the road.
Actually I get it totally, I am not saying over torque it at all .... NOT once have I suggested that FFS and yes I know where it goes.
I won't bother any more, you seem to want to belittle anything I say so yeap it is all yours ... hope you are happy now.
Craig sorry your thread turned into a pissing match of others trying to twist my words and make suggestion of me trying to do you wrong.
Unbelievable, this forum is for sharing knowledge and helping folks out. So far it seems to me thats all youve been given, belittlement is in your head.
Point is a less tensile bolt in my opinion, due to flex is a better option.
Enjoy your trip.
Thanks, we are.
Just to Clarify the BDCW bolts do not, I repeat do not, screw into the engine cases! Nor does it load up the engine cases.
It screws to the bike in two places, the first place through the L/H side mounting bolt for the center stand. The second is that it replaces the stock bolt that goes through the bottom engine mount bracket. Go and have a look at your bikes and you will see what I mean and why a stronger bolt wont run the risk of damaging the cases. All the said I believe putting the bolt in the other way around will solve this problem. BDCW have sent me a replacement, way above and beyond what I expected, I am very impressed.
It replaces bolt 14 in the picture below, now stop your bellyaching the lot of yers.