Best LED Aux Driving Lights (at a reasonable price)?

Discussion in 'Equipment' started by JimVonBaden, Dec 15, 2012.

  1. 1200gsceej

    1200gsceej wanabee overachiever

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    I'm still working my way through this thread, but I have not seen any mention of AdvMonster lights (inmate sanjoh). Any comments? --- Ahhh, "search this thread" helps.

    Also, I've seen different viewpoints on two basic locations: (i) low/fork lights and (ii) crash bar / under-beak light bar. Items of interest are: (a) seeing vs being seen, and (b) long distance vs short distance. Is there any general wisdom, or is it again just personal preference?
  2. dietDrThunder

    dietDrThunder Why so serious, son?

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    My experience with ADVMonster lights was awful. I bought a pair of Model 55 lights, and while they were bright, the very first time they were exposed to rain, one of them leaked and failed. After many back-and-forth emails wherein I had to prove that the light was faulty despite volunteering to simply return it, I was finally sent another light. The replacement lasted about 35 minutes into the first time it was exposed to rain, and it failed. After much gnashing of teeth and a long annoying thread here, Sanjoh finally refused to even try to get me working lights, but did offer me a refund, which I gladly took. The wires leading into the lights were 'sealed' by a badly applied blob of silicone, and the mounting brackets were cheesy.

    I replaced these lights with a pair if Vision X Optimus lights, which work great, and are reliable. Note that these are being used exclusively as driving lights. I have small DRL LEDs mounted as well.

    As for the location, you want driving lights to be high, because the higher they are the more range they have. Regarding the location of DRLs, this is a matter for debate (I absolutely hate fork mounted lights for many reasons, but many people love them), but it is safe to say that you want the DRLs to be separated from the headlights such that they provide more 'coverage' for visibility.

    Note that there is absolutely no reason to spend a large amount of money on DRLs. To wit, I bought a pair of the lights linked below for $11 including shipping, and they are nearly too bright to be DRLs...right on the edge. I hope this helps some; at least you have a few data points.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/2PC-Bright-...ash=item2a7c0745e3:g:HZAAAOSwr~lYs5NK&vxp=mtr
    ohgood and JimVonBaden like this.
  3. PapaWolf

    PapaWolf When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro.

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    Well, after reading through almost all of this thread, I have decided to finally pull the trigger on my first test of an aux lighting setup for my DR650. I have ordered the following:

    Auxbeam LED Light Bar 2Pcs 4" 18W CREE LED Pods Flood Beam

    IQ-275 Intelligent Dimmer

    I am going to order either the JNS Engineering two-light mount, or some other similar mounting system.

    What I am hoping y'all can help me out with is my wiring harness that I need for all of this. Yes, I could build one, but really I would just like to order something pre-made, or close to pre-made. Does anyone have anything they recommend, preferably on Amazon or eBay?

    I was looking at this one: Auxbeam LED Light Bar Wiring Harness Kit 12V 40Amp Fuse Relay ON/OFF Switch for $9. Worried that since it is built for a vehicle, I will have WAY too much extra wire to cut down and such. Any thoughts?

    And I will post here when I am done with the setup!
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  4. JRWooden

    JRWooden Long timer

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    PapaWolf:
    That sounds like a good setup...

    After reading the description of the IQ-275 two things:

    1) "Note that the IQ-275 serves as a relay, so no separate relay is required."
    so maybe you don't need the harness kit with the relay...???
    If you don't want to "fiddle" with settings while riding it seems like (unless I missed something)
    The lights will come on when you fire up the bike at a preset dimmed level with low-beam on
    and go to 100% brightness with high beam on ... ?
    So no switch needed at all? Just "ride"?

    2) Or if you do want to "fiddle" ... the trailtech switch they mention here on right side of page: http://www.skenelights.com/installation-iq-275
    would work ???

    I'm trying to figure out what to pull the trigger on as well ... have big ride coming up SOON!
  5. dietDrThunder

    dietDrThunder Why so serious, son?

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    The problem with a harness is that it will be waaay too long to neatly fit any bike application. You'll end up cutting and splicing it anyway, so you might as well just wire it yourself. One thing I'd recommend (even though I didn't do it on my current install, because I'm dumb like that) is to get one of those pre-fab plugs that plugs onto the relay, and wire that, as opposed to using individual spade connectors on the relay.
    PapaWolf likes this.
  6. mouthfulloflake

    mouthfulloflake Not afraid

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  7. dietDrThunder

    dietDrThunder Why so serious, son?

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    PapaWolf likes this.
  8. mouthfulloflake

    mouthfulloflake Not afraid

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    I have actually had ONE relay fail, it was installed with the terminals UP, so water got in it, but didnt drain out. ( it was rusty inside)
    I replaced it with another cheap chinese relay and made sure it was pointing down, so water could drain out.

    That has been fine for years.
  9. dietDrThunder

    dietDrThunder Why so serious, son?

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    I had 2 fail, both installed pointing down, this year. One I had to replace in the hotel parking lot the night before starting the Rock 'n Ride Rally...super annoying.
  10. mouthfulloflake

    mouthfulloflake Not afraid

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    It is possible that maybe I got lucky, I bought a dozen chinese relays for like $8 a few years back, still working through that box haha
    PapaWolf likes this.
  11. OneLifeADV

    OneLifeADV Adventurer

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    heres my setup, all 4 light for under $100, and i can light up the tops of trees and see about 1/4 on flat ground with them..cant go wrong

  12. ohgood

    ohgood Just givver tha berries !!!

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    I bought some of these per your recommendation. (thanks!) I'll update this thread how they work out for me.


    edit:

    wow. I spent eleven dollars and I think I'm going to have to put a diffuser on them. they really are too bright.

    think I'm going to try a mild frost on one of the light and leave the other spot. they're insane.
  13. JRWooden

    JRWooden Long timer

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    Can someone tell me a relay is actually required when using the Skene IQ-275?

    On the Skene product page it says: ""Note that the IQ-275 serves as a relay, so no separate relay is required."
  14. PapaWolf

    PapaWolf When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro.

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    JRWooden likes this.
  15. PapaWolf

    PapaWolf When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro.

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    Well, I installed my Skene IQ-275 today. It took awhile but was fairly straightforward, and they provide good documentation and all the Posi-Taps/Posi-Locks you need. I wired up my AuxBeam 18watt LED lights onto the JNS Engineering bracket, routed all of the wiring, built a simple, fused harness and connected it all tofgether. And I have to say, this setup ROCKS! At least in my garage, it does. I have the Skene controller running the lights at 20% with low beam, and 100% with high beam. The Skene unit is extremely fucking cool, and I am so happy to have found it.

    Tomorrow I will tidy up all of the cables/wires, and aim the lights correctly. Overall, I am a very happy camper!
  16. K1W1

    K1W1 Long timer

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  17. ohgood

    ohgood Just givver tha berries !!!

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    this is not an 'impress your friends with the cost and brand name' post... but anyway-

    I bought this led bar (SPOT)
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00T7L0DKK/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    for $16 shipped

    and this rectifier
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007Z7LXVQ/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    and slapped it together on the kdx2hunnit.

    I tested it around my neighborhood, and was impressed with the light, but expected either the rectifier or led to crap out (I've burned a lot of rectifiers on this bike for some reason) on the up coming DS trip.

    it throws a 10-12ft circle (spot) of light at about 30ft away, which is plenty bright, with minimal scatter around it. the cars did not flash me in disgust, so I guess I had our aimed low enough to not bother them.

    the mounting hardware is junk, expect to make your own.

    I zip tied the rectifier to my radiator guard, after dipping it in liquid tape.

    it survived a 200mile weekend of DS riding from 68mph (remember, this is a two stroke, not a 800 lb couch cruiser!) to creeping through streams and 85f heat, just fine

    here's one of the water tests:


    if you're looking for a blast of light on the cheap, there you go
    fyc likes this.
  18. Gryphus1

    Gryphus1 I'd rather be riding

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    Well lets see those things mounted up on the ol' beast! @ohgood
  19. ohgood

    ohgood Just givver tha berries !!!

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    it's just angle iron and some old bark buster mounts. I threw it together to get the bike ready for last weekend. the higher you might lights the better.... l less fender glare, and you can angle it down more to prevent blinding others. I like it right above and forward of the bar pad.

    Effect_20170720_214610.jpg

    I could probably mount four of them there, but at (according to the listing, lol) 36w per bar I would be out of bounds with my lighting coil at three of them.

    next up, that bar with one longer range 10 degree 20w spot pod under neath. totally over kill, but should be enough to make everyone respect these led lights from the cheap seats.
  20. 1200gsceej

    1200gsceej wanabee overachiever

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    WATERPROOF ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS ?
    The Hex ezCAN (and others?) seem to use these wire connectors. Does anyone know where they can be obtained? Or better ones?
    I need something to connect my lights to wires leading back to the power source (so I could unplug/replace lights).
    I guess I could just make a fixed connect, solder, and cover with heat shrink.
    thanks,
    -ceej


    20170726-101626.jpg 20170726-103741.jpg