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Discussion in 'The Garage' started by lightsorce, Jul 31, 2007.
I'd guess these two.
Thanks. Poor memory here, I do not remember reading them. They would put me on the defensive also.
new one today, pickup truck bed.
wheelie the front up, then strap in place normally. the fins of the bed liner are great for start -> finish bolt ordering, the tailgate is a seat, and the head of the bike (I cut off my auto decomp mechanism today) is at the right level.
man that was easy. :)
I must be having a bad day or something. I have no idea what you are talking about.
1 wheelie front end into bed of truck, leaving rear on ground
2 strap front end to hard points
3 remove tank, seat, valve cover, exhaust cam cover, laying all bolts in order in bed liner ribs
4 cut of autodecomp mechanism from exhaust cam
(all while seated on tailgate, comfy)
5 clean and replace exhaust cam
6 reassemble, start bike, enjoy lack of rattling
7 pat truck where a hiney would be and say "good job truck"
offending piece of worthless mess:
I should also clarify, by "truck" I mean something that isn't 9000lbs, 8 feet high, or cost the equivilant of the gdp of some small countries, aka, old crapbox toyota. -just- a truck, not a statement
Thanks and nice job!
ahhh..I get it now....a mobile sit down work bench!
Really? Seemed like sound advice (writes another who has not lifted a bike this way, and wouldn't).
What's an autodecomp mechanism?
Not so much a trick more like saving space.
I bought a No-Mar tire changer on CL but didn't want to leave it mounted in the floor of the garage.
So I have this wood floor 5'x10' trailer and made me some 1/2" T-nuts and will mount the changer in the trailer when I need it. When I'm done with it I can unbolt it and store it in a corner of the garage.
Most likely will get as much use as the trailer.
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I cut a hole approx 2.5 inches in diameter in the side of a tall qt gear oil bottle, a couple of inches from the bottom. Use as a funnel with the lid/spout on or off. When you're done just stand it up and any oil drips down to the bottom
Hi there :)
For a school project I'm gathering images about self made special tools. I've read this thread and noticed, that many of you have made a spare gas tank to work on the bike so there's no need to but the actual tank back on. I made on for myself aswell Do any of you who have made it, have some images about the tank/bottle/canister? Or is there any other special tool (self made), that many people might have in their garage?
My tiny tank looks like this:
Many thanks :)
Personally, I use an old water bottle.
Rinse with a little gasoline to remove residual water.
Drill a hole in the lid just big enough to fit the tube snuggly.
Poke a small hole (offset) in the lid to allow as a "breather".
Push tubing through hole in lid, to bottom of bottle.
Remove lid with tube, fill bottle 1/2 - 2/3 full with gas. Replace lid/ tube.
Cut a piece of coat hanger long enough to wrap securely around neck of bottle, and create a hook at other end to hang off of handle bars.
Connect other end of tubing to carb.
(make sure to wipe any excess gasoline from lid area first) Blow through breather vent to prime/ force gasoline to carb.
Once primed, if bottle hung above level of carb, siphoning should keep carb fed until fuel supply runs out.
Sorry no pictures, but this has worked well for me on many occasions.
I make a bike stand out of some old 2x4 scraps that I had lying around, does that count?
Sounds like a cool project for school.
Fuel for when the tank is off the airhead.
From bottom left:
Pins made from bolts for sliding an oilhead transmission out without damaging the throw-out rod.
Allen wrench with a point ground on one end used as a flywheel lock for an R1200.
Clutch alignment tool for oilhead.
Deep 7mm socket ground thin at end for accessing the bolt securing the neutral/gear indicator switches from rear of oilhead transmission.
Ground down 13/16 socket for seating airhead push rod seals.
17 and 19mm sockets with the beveled faced ground down. 19 is for better access to R1200 transmission drain plug.
Bolts with nuts are homemade axle sockets for the R1200 and newer Beemers, made before I dropped the $20 for a real tool.
Bent 11mm wrench for bleeding top of ABS unit on oilhead.
Lastly is an attachment for my greese gun for getting into the inverted fittings on airhead swingarm pivots.
Big box is for holding up an oilhead final drive with the oil still in it, to prevent a huge oily mess. Holes on side are for holding airhead cylinders.
The smaller deal on the side is a jig for my drill press for drilling airhead cylinders.
Stand for front end of R1200 so I can pull both wheels at the same time.
The deal on top is for unscrewing the fuel pump retaining ring on a R1200.
License plate back piece is for slipping an alternator belt off top pulley on oil, hex, or camhead.
Blue pieces are for quick measuring of an oilhead clutch lever adjustment.
The yellow stick is for measuring how far in/out the piston is on an oilhead.
The bottom pieces are for locking airhead flywheels. I made the one on the right and bought the one on the left, but it was also made by an individual.
K bike stand made of angle iron, allowing you to remove the centerstand (which bolts directly to the transmission housing).