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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by the white rabbit, Feb 11, 2008.
If buying again would you still pick the 350 over the 450 you rode, suspension being equal? Thanks.
Just picked up a 2012 350RR !
Need to do some maintenance - get her ready for dual sport duty, but will report back once she's had her maiden voyage !
I’m heading to the dealer tomorrow with check book in hand to look at a 2012 520RS . I’m coming off a CA plated 02 XR650R that got 40-42 mpg consistently no matter what type of terrain I was on, or how I used the throttle. Do any of you know what kind of mileage I can expect from the 520RS? This is a California model.
P.S. If I buy, I'll be back soon for mod advice. Thanks in advance!
Do you plan on doing much street riding...like 50/50 or is this 90% dirt? I have a Beta trials bike and really like it and now that I am in the market for a DS bike really like the 520RS. But....I need to ride 45-60 minutes of freeway to get to the dirt. So far a DR650 seems good but I know the 520RS would be a killer DS bike.
My riding will be 80-90% dirt : 10-20% street. I have a 06 YZ250 2t for 100% off road and enduro racing. I'm probably going to install the Rekluse auto clutch on the 520, and if it works out well, I'll probably use the 520 for everything. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
With the 6.9 gallon tank on my XRR, I and can ride a 250+ mile loop without having to stop for gas. I'd like to have a good idea what the mpg is for the 520, so I can plan my rides. I know the mpg depends on speed and terrain, but if anyone can give me an average mpg, Id appreciate it. <o></o>
I dont understand the manufacturers sell their DS bikes with those itty bitty 2 gallon tanks! <o></o>
With the Clark 3.8 gallon tank on a de-smogged 2011 520 RS running 14 x 48 gearing and JD jet kit for low elevation with FMF Q pipe carrying lots of off-road tools, tubes and 2 gallons of extra fuel, a gallon of water, etc. rider weight without riding gear of 200 lbs, running Maxxis Desert ITs and ultra-heavy-duty tubes I got 140+ miles out of a tank. I was riding fairly quickly, mostly high gears, probably 60-80% WOT over mostly open, but varied terrain dirt.
I was consciously riding one gear higher when I could in order to conserve fuel. Your results may vary.
That's exactly what I needed to know. Now, OFF TO THE DEALER!!
Well, after riding the 350, which is epic on the trails, the dealer is kind enough to let me switch to a 450 (350 was a demo).
As other than displacement, there's little difference (weight, height, suspension are the same, although the 350 has titanium valves, more compression), the 450 is crucial for me, as I ride the tarmac to get to the trails.
Thanks, but I am asking about dirt only use. The engine size really makes a difference in how a bike feels, everything else being equal. Dirt only(woods), 350 or 450? Thanks.
This Motorcycle USA review nails it:
Jump to 1:56m in the video when they speak to the difference between the 350 and 450.
My intended riding is 99% dirt 1% street and i like trails that are tight and fast, I want manageable power that I can ride hard, instead of the bike riding me.
So yes, I have yet to take it on any of my normal trails since it is still winter. however I think the 350 is the perfect size for a 4 stroke, has plenty of bottom and revs really nice. There are times where i wish it had more power in the open stuff (im also at elevation), but in the tighter stuff it is a gem. Ill give up topend to have something that i can get aggressive with in the tighter stuff. the 450 was ridden about a year ago so its hard for me to compare, but the 350 feels very nimble and steers very well, my guess is the tighter it gets the better the 350 would work over the 450.
Last weekend I rode it back to back with a ktm 350xcf (not w), and the ktm has quite a bit more in the power department, but is very vibey, by comparison, and wants to shudder and stall constantly in the tight stuff.
The beta is super smooth and is way more tractable on the bottom. the ktm still wins the chassis/suspension wars and works better the faster you go......but you could not get me to trade because the beta makes stuff easy and fun while still very fast, the ktm just feels like more work and less fun.
I just bought a new, left over CA model 2012-520RS. I got a great deal (I think). Asking price was $9,399. They let it go for $8,200, to make room for the 2013s coming in. They also had a brand new 09-525RR for $6,300! Thought about it for a few minutes, but I really wanted the dual sport.
Now I have some extra cash to personalize it…… Let the modifications begin!
These are the mods I’m planning right away:
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· 3.8 Gallon Tank
· Gutz Soft Seat Foam
· Rekluse Auto Clutch
· JD Jetting Kit
· 48t Rear Sprocket
· Scotts Steering Damper
· Double Take Mirrors
· Replace the Pirelli MT21s
· Hand Guards (of course)
**Maybe an FMF Q Pipe? Do you need it to get all the benefits from the JD kit?
I’m going to ride it for a while before making any decision on suspension mods. Is there anything else that I should do right away? Any other bugs to take care of that's missing from my list?
I look forward to any advice you may offer.
Picked up my 2012 450RR today !
As its just left the crate it shipped in from Italy, I've pulled the carb stop, and the AIS (emission) filter.
I do want to check every nut and bolt, but the manual doesnt have the torque values ! Any one know where to find these ? I'm thinking I should grease the linkage, check the steering head and wheel bearings (for adequate grease), anything else ?
Thoughts on run in ? The manual states:
The running-in period lasts approximately 15 hours, during which it is advisable to: 1 During the first 3 hours of operation the engine should only be used to approxi- mately 50 percent of its power. In addition, the engine speed should not exceed
7,000 rpm. 2 For the next 12 hours of operation the engine should only be used to about 75
percent of its power. 3 Use the vehicle after properly warming up the engine. 4 Avoid travelling at constant speed (changing the speed causes the different com-
ponents to bed in evenly and more quickly). This procedure should be followed each time piston, piston rings, cylinder, crankshaft or crankshaft bearings are replaced.
WARNING After the first 3 hours or 20 litres of petrol change the engine and gear oil.
PS: I may consider pulling the cat out at some point, but want to try it stock.
I am thinking that as much as I like the 520RS it is just a bit more dirt oriented that what I'll be doing with it. Looks like I'll stick with the DR650.
Did you get the one in/near Sacramento? I saw that and was really tempted. But.....I'll be doing about 50/50 dirt/street so.....congrats on a great deal on a great bike. I still want one.
I am a fan of the Motoman method. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Maybe a bit controversial but it makes perfect sense to me.
As for the bolt torque....are you really going to go over every nut and bolt with a torque wrench? If you really feel the need to maybe after the first ride or two you could take a wrench and make sure they are still snug. Small bolts get small torque and big bolts get big torque. Don't over torque and don't leave any loose. Have fun.
Yes, that's the place. I was surprised find one there. I do 80-90% dirt / 10-20% street, so I think it will work out well for me. From my first impression, I think I can even do enduros with it, although, my 06 YZ250 is perfect for those. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
I noticed the literature for the 2013 says the frame has been Updated with a lower cross brace and larger diameter lower cradle tubes. I wonder if that will make much of a difference in the handling compared to the 2012? <o></o>
I think you have the perfect bike for what you want to do. A good deal too.....thanks for removing that temptation......I think.
Just got a DR650 but I still want a 520RS.......it never ends.
The maiden voyage of my 2012 450RR was somewhat scarred today by starting issues.
After zipping along happily, she would bog and then just die mysteriously. e-start wouldnt light her up - repeated attempts just kept draining the battery - kick start didnt seem to help either. Sounded as if she wasnt getting fuel.
- I'm wondering if this is a battery issue (ie: not enough charge to turn her over) ? After assembly (pour included acid pack into cells) I did charge the new battery, and according to the charger its healthy. Am going to charge it again, and check the voltage (manual states: "check that the voltage is greater than 12.6 V", and "...until the voltage between the terminals stabilizes at ~14.5 V")
- or could this instead be carb related ? What have other's done re the carbs ? ie: Have you left things stock (after removing the limiter), or found that the carb needs adjustment ?
- or could this be a starter relay issue ?
First thing that comes to my mind to check would be the fuel tank vent hose might be pinched/blocked.
Interested in hearing what you find was the problem.
I did find the one way valve wasnt breathing (in either direction), just gonna pull it and leave the hose.
Scuse my daftness, but how can this cause the (described) problem ?
I'd like to know what other Beta owners have for a battery, and what voltage is present.
The battery that came with the bike is a YTX5L-BS, and the voltage after (fully) charging is 13.2V.
The breather allows air in to the gas tank as fuel is used by the engine. If it didn't work....as it sounds like yours wasn't....as the gasoline was used and NOT replaced with air a vacuum would result and fuel won't gravity flow to the engine from the tank.
By removing your one way valve did that fix the problem ?
I replaced the stock battery as you indicated above with a Turntech 5.0 amp lithium ion battery. It allowed me to start my Beta while in gear....once bike is up to operating temp. When it is fully charged it shows 13.4 volts but it's probably a whole different ball game than lead acid type batteries . I don't know.