Beta TR33 Hydraulic clutch retrofit

Discussion in 'Trials' started by GAwoody83, Sep 11, 2013.

  1. GAwoody83

    GAwoody83 Been here awhile

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    #1
  2. lineaway

    lineaway Long timer

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    If you are crazy enough to want the hydraulic on your bike that has finally made it to vintage status, just find a trashed techno and all the parts would probably fit. A good working cable clutch on the old beta`s did not pull hard, but it was an improvement. Personally I would just upgrade to a newer bike and keep the tr33 for vintage.:D
    #2
  3. Twin-shocker

    Twin-shocker Long timer

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    Why not try a hydraulic intended for pit-bike use? They are very cheap and dont look too badly made.

    If no good, then the Hebo hydraulic is much better than the Magura. Changing from cable clutch is well worth doing, and will make bike nicer to ride.
    #3
  4. Monty348

    Monty348 Adventurer

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  5. motobene

    motobene Motoing for 44 years

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    The Betas of that era did not have great clutch designs. Vague feel and too much drag even after pulling the lever a long way. You could do a fantastic job converting to hydraulic actuation and then bump into limitations of the crude clutch design.

    I used to make the older bike clutches work as good as could be expected by making my own clutch cables from the excellent Japanese TSK cables used on many Japanese bikes with cable clutches. The TSK cables are tough and have the low friction inner plastic sheath. Then I'd lube them with oil instead of running them dry. I'd go to a local moto shop, back when they had a rack of cables for various bikes, pick one that was close, and get the length right. These days picking one may be hard because they'll say, "I can order one for ya. Which one you want?" To which I'd reply, "I can't know without seeing the cable." And we vainly loop.

    Sometimes I'd tweak the length of the actuating arm. I could lengthen them for easier pull, but only on clutches that would fully release earlier in the lever throw. Maybe you have a beta that does that. If not, no type of actuation improvement will get you away from a dragging clutch or a really stiff lever.

    No wait! There is another trick! If that Beta uses an even number of clutch springs you can remove two of the springs to reduce drag and ease the pull. If the clutch doesn't slip under power you'll like the clutch a bunch more.
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  6. Rockcat

    Rockcat LDA

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  7. GAwoody83

    GAwoody83 Been here awhile

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    ok so I have been tinkering with the setup and have come to this:
    new bolt/slave cylinder holder
    rotated the clutch pull lever forward
    Magura kit for a 94-02 Kawasaki kx125 with a 41mm rod, actuall pull is from 56-59mm

    so far the pull is nearly effortless, just need to finish some other projects on the bike to tell if it will actually work or if i will need to change out the rod or do some other mods to it to increase the length of the pull form the slave cylinder.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    #7
  8. motobene

    motobene Motoing for 44 years

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    That's a slick looking kit.

    You describe pull as "nearly effortless." What about clutch action? With respect to lever travel when set up to be ergonomic (not too far out or in when fully released), how far in does the lever have to go to slip release the clutch, and to fully release the clutch?

    How sticky is snicking in to neutral at idle, lever fully in, engine warmed up?

    Just curious how substantial an enhancement this is for the older clutch designs. How much did it cost? (If you haven't mentioned that already).
    #8
  9. GAwoody83

    GAwoody83 Been here awhile

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    The kit was 200 from eBay and it was new, I haven't tried the bike out yet as I am waiting for a replacement bushing for the rear suspension, then I will tell more about it and hopefully all is well with it.
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  10. GAwoody83

    GAwoody83 Been here awhile

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    Ok so all is on and works great, will go back and add in a spacer to pull the clutch arm a little more so that I am not using all the action of the slave cylinder.
    #10