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Discussion in 'Sports' started by Zodiac, Jul 10, 2006.
28" is usually synonymous for 700c but check the size chart to be sure
Thanks for that chart and the link. That's fixed that issue then as was considering getting a 28" wheeled frame but as there's only 5mm difference in BSD between the 27" and 28" nominal wheels, I shan't bother.
At least, you're honest with yourself.
Yeah, don't get too wrapped up in wheel sizes for frames. Just make sure you can get a brake caliper that'll work.
I've got an English 26" (590mm BSD) rolling on 700c (622mm BCD). I'd read on a few forums that they don't fit. Go figure.
You could always start on a really long downhill.
Not in FL.
I hear they have some causeway bridges down there.
Was aiming for 100km of dirt and tarmac yesterday. Made it to 80 as it was hitting 4PM. We were 1:30 away from home the way we'd planned, 45min away from home down the busy road, or 15min away from my buddy's house. Ended up at 90km on the day.
We chose my buddy's house. My bike is over at his place. Dirty. Oh well. He's gonna bring it to the Haymarket ride tonite and I'll have three bikes to clean (mtn from Mon, Crosshairs yesterday, and the FTB from tonite)
Got my training plan all worked out till April, and the basics roughed in to the Hilly Billy Roubaix at the end of June. Now to be able to actually RIDE said training plan without killing myself. :eek1 There's lots of 4hr rides backed up by 3-3.5hr rides on the weekends.
So I spent part of yesterday trying to learn to climb steep hills on my 29er. Couldn't do it, though. In retrospect, I think I was getting bad advice: using the smallest gear in front combined with the largest gear in back made pedaling ridiculously easy, but it also caused the bike to wheelie uncontrollably, with an occasional loss of traction at the rear. The video below at the 1:22 mark shows a rider pedaling at a much slower cadence than I was, but both wheels remain firmly planted.
<iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/1jVHrS-jsF8?feature=player_detailpage" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
AG2R has a sense of humor
<iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/8g_H8htT-GM?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Yes, Using the granny gear really does take finesse. It is a fine balance between wheelie-ing and loosing traction. Trials REALLY helps with this one.
Practice, practice, practice......
Climbing steep hills on any mtn bike means putting your taint WAY up on the nose of the saddle and bringing your face right down towards the bar and 'rowing' your bike up the hill.
Rowing = pulling back and down to drive the rear wheel into the ground at the power portion of your pedal stroke. You still need to have a smooth pedal stroke or you'll break traction.
Gotta replace my clipless pedals with a set of flats before I do any more climbing practice.
Also, what happens when you stall out on a steep climb? Once the bike is moving forward, traction isn't as big an issue, but trying to start from a dead stop on a hill just causes the rear wheel to spin.
I think the Vortex trail at Santos is unsafe. Lose control in some areas, and you could go home in a body bag.
I don't know from mtn biking, but I use <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-A530-Dual-Platform-Pedal/dp/B001MZ2AGO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1357139500&sr=8-5&keywords=shimano+pedals">these</a> on my Sirrus, and I find them very useful for intense urban cyclo-flogging.
Leaving them on is how you're going to learn to quickly get out of them. I've only ever fallen over once, because I couldn't get unclipped. And, that was because I was unwilling to give up climbing the hill.
You walk it.
I can already unclip instantly without having to think about it. Flats would just give me a little more peace of mind, so I can concentrate on the task at hand.
I went to flats years ago for any real technical riding. I also can get out of a set of clips without thinking of it instantly, but for bridges and stunts flats are the way to go. You may lose something for climbing, but not enough to make it worth it for me. If your ten feet up on a teeter-totter and it goes wrong, you want to be able to abandon ship in a hurry.
What Gummee said about climbing steeps is bang on, you got to get on the rivet and tuck your elbows in to your ribs then punch it. Sounds obvious, but the faster you can go the easier it is, having enough momentum to roll over whatever is going to hang you up is key, then keeping the power going down come hell or high water. Being fit is a big player in being proficient in the technical stuff. Having consistent and ample power is huge.
There are climbs in Whistler that I've tried to make for decades (literally) that I've come within three pedal strokes to making, but never have. Usually after burning out or spazing I’d make a noise like Chewbacca and want to throw my bike into the woods.
Graham Watson on cycling, LA, etc
I use these on my hybrid...
They or similar would rock on a mtn bike. can wear a walking shoe, or most anything. the pins hold your foot almost as securely as a SPD cleat for anything other than pulling straight up (eg the 'scrape your shoe' motion at the bottom of the stroke works just fine)