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Discussion in 'Sports' started by Zodiac, Jul 10, 2006.
I not having much luck C-list on this one, if i knew what i needed that might be diferant
Yeah, I am 6'3", bikes on CL in our size a few a far between. You just have to be patient.... and check it ALOT!
wrist problems are frequently related more to improper fit to the bike, or riding style. many of us 'formerly bitchin' dudes' (a.k.a.: old farts) here grew up riding MTBs long before any suspension, and learned how to keep a firm grip at the bars but have loose arms to allow the bike to move under us, and that translates into a riding style that results in less wrist discomfort on any bike.
sizing is one of those things people tend to overlook or forget to mention when talking about bikes (just like you did on your initial question); you just have to ask.
frankly, if i were in your limited-$ shoes, i'd check to make sure the bike i had fit me. (a good shop should be willing to help you with a proper fit; and knowing how your bike should fit you is something you're going to need on every bike you ever own, so it's a good thing to figure out before you start buying stuff.) it might be that the bike you already have can be made to fit you better (longer stems are common for guys our size), and that may alleviate your discomfort for less than what you wanted to spend for now.
depending on what year your Sorrento is, if everything else is good and you've already got your fit nailed, you might even consider looking for a shock that you can put on it. if your bike is too old, it might not have been designed to be 'suspension ready' geometry, but many are; you'll just have to check that to make sure you can get a suspension fork that will have roughly the same axle to crown race dimension as your stock fork.
it wasn't me that mentioned the XL frame size, but they were probably right, as were the comments regarding the difficulty finding larger bikes for sale used. i have a high enough Ape Index that i flat-foot (with bent knees) a GS Adventure with longer-than-stock custom Öhlins, and can vouch that bicycles in the taller sizes like ours are fewer and farther between than bikes closer to the middle sizes. you might have much better luck finding a suspension fork that someone upgraded out of in a fit of 'upgrade-itis'.
I am going to be in a town with a bike shop tomorrow, I will swing by and see what they have to say.
thanks for the replys
what kind of riding do you expect to actually do? casual riding, mostly bike paths and a bit of hard pack dirt? for that I'd suggest a 'hybrid' bike rather than a 'mountain bike', these are like $500 new for a decent one (Specialized Sirrus, Giant Escape, etc). avoid cheap suspension like the plague.
craigslist is real hit/miss for bicycles, a lot of people are asking far more than the bikes are really worth, and there's a lot of junk. One of the best places to get used bikes is garage sales, cruise the neighborhoods on garage sale morning, and even if you don't see any bicycles, especially if its an older grandma type, ASK! you'd be surprised what might be pulled out of the back of the garage...
I have an older 22" chromoly Rockhopper frame and about 15-20 bikes under a tarp in my backyard. I can probably throw something together that would work well for you once the snow melts. I'm 6'4" and know how hard it can be finding bikes that fit right. I have $20 in the frame, and maybe another $60 for tires and cables. Just an option.
Easy 40 miles with the PMCB this morning. The patch on my femoral artery and on the tube in my front tire both held up well.
Assuming the doctor "releases" on the 8th, the first century of the year will be next Sunday.
Saturday, February 2, 2013 Saguaro National Park 300 km/190 miles
Saturday, February 16, 2013 Gila River Valley 200 km/125 miles
Saturday, March 2, 2013 Around the Bend 400 km/257 miles
>> Friday, March 22, 2013 Fleche 360 km. (Not sure about this one...)
>> Saturday, April 13, 2013 Tombstone, Tucson start 600 km/374 miles. (Not sure about this one either...too close to the 1200 for my comfort.)
Wed - Sat, May 1 -4, Texas Stampede 1200/750 miles
So, for the most part, with a lot of luck, I'll accomplish my goals by May 4th and can ride simply for the joy of riding for the rest of the year.
I have had a few very close calls on the road so I am trying to avoid the road as much as possible, and I have found a lot of bicycle single track in the area so I am thinking that I need something that will take a beating but I am also going to see how much I ride it, before i start putting money into it
i will keep that in mind
that would be an excellent way to dip your feet in. those older rockhoppers were nearly indestructable frames, and a reasonably well sorted 'bitsa-bike' (bitsa this, bitsa that) like it sounds like he'll be putting together will be just fine.
its a hardtail (no rear suspension), and probably has a older suspension fork which is at least as good a fork as anything you'll get on a $500 newer bike.
if you're really getting into it and find the hard tail is too much of a limitation, start saving up those nickels so you can get a nice full suspension disk brake bike down the road. I have a Stumpjumper FSR Disc here I'm not riding anymore, but its a M and is a little too small for me, and I'm 6' tall.
Get the rockhoppa!
Also don't be afraid to order a nice new frame that's sized for you and then build it up with used parts.
Back in the saddle today myself. Got my first race picked out in March, the St. Patrick's Day Du. 3 mi run/18 mi bike/3 mi run. Round about February it'll be time to start throwing bricks.
Getting used to this whole winter riding thing.
Thinking about studded tires on a old wheel set to swap out when it gets nasty.
Staying surprisingly warm on my commute
I admire you cold-weather-riders. As for me, ain't no way.
First time pedaling in 3 weeks. Ugh. I am out of shape. The valley below these photos is getting logged. Seen trail systems come, seen em go.
No turning back now.
I'm trying to identify a 1980s touring/road 63.5cm CTT frame. I was told it was made from 531 tubing. Its been repainted many times and has no stickers on its current coat. I wonder if anyone here knows a definitive way of determining what tubes were used in its construction?
I didn't realize it got that cold, out there.
Nokian W240 is a great, studded tire. More studded tire info, here.
That looks to be a Casseroll you've got, there. If you do decide to get studs, be careful of the tire sizing. A lot of the winter tires are lugged and, then, have the studs sticking out from the lugs.
Not without testing the tubes themselves.
Pictures of the frame, especially the bottom of the bottom bracket (serial #?)may help identify it.
The serial number may be on the headtube or the bb. Most likely the bb though. Take a good pic of the dropouts too. They can help identify the frame.
Apologies if I did not make this point clear: I'm really interested in identifying the tubes not the frame
Thanks but I assume that your strategy is based on the assumption that the manufacturer is known, keeps records of frames . The manufacturer is unknown so serial number is useless AFAIK. I'm hoping there is a more direct accurate method such as markings on tubes.
How might photos discriminate between many choices (BRANDS: Reynolds, Columbus, to name a few and then many choices of their respective tube types) of tubes? Surely, they cannot
Columbus often has a symbol on the fork steerer tube, and if Columbus SLX you'll see riflings in the seat and downtubes where they come into the BB. Tange steerers have 6 internal riflings, Columbus have 5 IIRC.
I useta work with framebuilders who could ID fork blades (Columbus are rounder) and seat and chainstays (by diameter and taper) but I lack that eye/memory.