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Discussion in 'Sports' started by Zodiac, Jul 10, 2006.
Go get em!
And for the sake of less sore legs tomorrow...stretch after.
BAck! Much easier today than it was on Monday. Bonus, it rained like mad yesterday so there were ton's of mud and water holes!
I'm going to strip off the spandex and soak for a bit
I've used the GUTR, it simply routes the sweat out the side and down your face, but it stays out of the eyes.
I actually ordered one of these since Amazon sells it and I had to buy some other stuff. I'll try it on the rollers first to see if a. it works and b. it's not too dorky
Its too dorky, but WTF?! if it helps with the waterfall of sweat, wear it!
Not NEARLY as bad as Askel's bibs over t-shirt tho!
Oh, it if works and I can wear it with a helmet, I'll wear it alright. Anyway, people will be too focused on Lycra stretching to breaking point on my ass to see it....
Was talking to some coworkers yesterday-
"Hey Askel, we saw you out riding your bike the other day. What the fuck were you wearing?"
I've never adjusted a derailleur before. But I keep hearing a rubbing noise near the chainring. Is this something I should get instruction on before trying, or would YouTube instructional videos be sufficient? My bike is a stick cheapola K2 Zed.
It's not too hard, watch somebody who knows what they're doing first. Keep in mind you can seriously wreck stuff with the limit adjusters on the rear derailleur if you try hard enough.
The Park Tool site has good instructions for this.
Easier than syncing the TB's on a GS.
Less same old surging issues though.
MOST have a slotted or Allen adjuster screw to fine tune the derailleur’s.
If you have one just flip the bike over on a softish surface, peddle to see which way it's off and adjust accordingly. (go slow and know where zero/start point is)
PS Some bikes don't like big ring/small ring combs so you may not be able to adjust that bit of rubbing out. (Which I why I recommend that you know where zero is)
Are you guys using strong gloves? I fell at less than 10 mph and the MX gloves I was using instantly wore through the side of the knuckles. Trying to find some lightweight kevlar enforced. My gloves always seem to bust out on the sides of the fingers.
Most gloves seem like a joke because they put thick material along the top but paper thin along the sides. If you drag your hand perpendicular to a surface the thick material rolls away and the paper thin becomes the contact area.
I used my motocross gloves for winter riding, but i am using some cheapo nashbar fingerless right now. I know I will regret it if I crash on the road, but that is what I am using.
When exactly is it rubbing?
What gear combos?
I didn't slide even 2ft and the MX glove proved worthless on the street. I'm wearing some lightweight street gloves until I figure this out. I think even a leather golf glove would have more abrasion resist than the lycra side panels on most cycling gloves.
It's intermittent but it seems to be rubbing somewhere up front. I can see shiny areas on the metal there, areas which should be dirty, so I assume it's rubbing there. But to be honest, when I hear the noise and look down, I cannot see where the chain is making contact. Happens on the flat, uphill and downhill. Stops when I stop pedaling.
I notice it mainly in 2/7 and 2/8. (Is that how one expresses it?)
Since I cleaned the chain last night, it's sometimes reluctant to shift up. It won't take until I go up a second gear, then it rattles through both. For example, I'm in 2/4 and try to go to 2/5, it won't budge until I shift to 2/6.
It's also reluctant to shift down sometimes, when trying to go from 2/8 to 1/8. Just makes a rattling noise and I finally have to push it back up to 2/8.
Any of this making sense? I'm a neophyte, been bicycling almost every day for the last 6 weeks, and I know very little about bicycle nomenclature.
I'm guessing here, but yer riding an 8sp rear cassette with a triple front?
If so, then ya need to learn shiftin. Once you get about mid-way thru the cassette in any ring, shift up to the next bigger ring. That'll keep the rubbing to a minimum AFA sheer mechanical stuff goes. Don't help with stuff that's outta alignment/adjustment tho.
Some of it DOES sound like yer front der. is outta adjustment. Sounds like the cable's too tight, but without looking at it
So if I'm in 5 on the middle ring, instead of shifting to 6, I should instead switch to the big ring? I accept that what you say is true, but why have the other gears if they're not to be used?
I'll give it a try tomorrow. Thanks for the advice.
If you look at the gear progression charts for yer gearing, you'll see that there's overlap in several spots.
Basically, ya gotta learn where the shift points are, then use em to yer advantage.
Lots of times, ya upshift to the big ring and downshift a pair of cogs in the back to get that first small step so yer not gettin a HUGE jump in gear inches.
I hadta learn this the hard way. LOTS of years ago