Bing issue

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by Grider Pirate, Mar 14, 2011.

  1. Grider Pirate

    Grider Pirate Long timer

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    My '95 GSPD has always missed slightly under very low load conditions. I've been fighting it for years. New Metering Needles, New Needle jets, new Diaphragms, etc. etc.. By contrast, my '88 RS has always run wonderfully. Last week I swapped carbs between the two bikes, and, as expected, now the GSPD runs sweetly and the RS.. not so much. The book calls for all the same parts (jets, needles, etc..) but I tore down both sets to compare. Needles in the same grooves, same jets (135, 2.66, 45)... everything I could find was identical. WTF?? Then I noticed on one of the GSPD carbs that the little domed piece in the center of the carb top is LOOSE. [​IMG]

    It's loose enough to pass some significant air in a highly scientific 'suck' test. I've never heard of this before. Is it common?
    I'm thinking of floating some epoxy into that junction. Anybody have experience with this?
    #1
  2. wirewrkr

    wirewrkr the thread-killer

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    Fairly common problem.
    Rather than try to recrimp it when that happens, I use JB weld.
    Works like a dream
    #2
  3. Solo Lobo

    Solo Lobo airhead or nothing

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    Mine were loose and I used some gasket maker, epoxy sounds like a better way to go. The loose tops definitely had a negative effect on how my bike ran
    #3
  4. bmwrench

    bmwrench Long timer

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    I'd use Loctite 290, formerly known as Wick'n'Lock. Just put a drop or two around the plug and watch it disappear. Don't get carried away with the quantity, and apply with the engine stopped.
    #4
  5. supershaft

    supershaft because I can

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    Has anyone ever sent them to Bing USA to get re-crimped?
    #5
  6. Tosh Togo

    Tosh Togo Long timer

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    :rofl


    Nope.





    Short, sweet, and effective. [​IMG]
    #6
  7. Boxer Metal

    Boxer Metal Mad Scientist

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    I like using epoxy. The top piece will always look shiny. BTW. Check your choke gaskets.
    #7
  8. Hawk Medicine

    Hawk Medicine Coyote's Brother

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    If you're running 32mm Bings, an old rally pin with some silicone under it works perfectly.

    I haven't found the perfect object to glue onto 40s yet. :lol3


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
    #8
  9. Grider Pirate

    Grider Pirate Long timer

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    All new. BTW, I followed yer link. You're selling real PARTS again?? Whoohoo!
    #9
  10. Grider Pirate

    Grider Pirate Long timer

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    I like that, but I don't have any such devices.
    #10
  11. Boxer Metal

    Boxer Metal Mad Scientist

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    The only other thing I can think of is throttle shaft o-rings. Yep back in the biz. I missed you guys to much!
    #11
  12. Grider Pirate

    Grider Pirate Long timer

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    Also new.
    Epoxy is setting now. Didn't have any JB weld, so I used the epoxy that I use for glider repairs.
    #12
  13. Boxer Metal

    Boxer Metal Mad Scientist

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    The epoxy will yellow over time but it is easier to remove and re-due than JB weld.
    #13
  14. boxerboy81

    boxerboy81 Stay Horizontal

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    A Euro.
    [​IMG]
    #14
  15. Wirespokes

    Wirespokes Beemerholics Anonymous

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    I've epoxied them from the inside, but that's a bit tricky avoiding any buildup on the slide walls - definitely a no-no. I like wrench's idea.
    #15
  16. Grider Pirate

    Grider Pirate Long timer

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    Me too, but the epoxy (very low viscosity for layups) was on hand, and the locktite wasn't. I warmed the tops a little, and the epoxy wicked right into the seam. I wiped off the excess and let the epoxy cure. I'll re-install tonight and check them out.
    #16
  17. Grider Pirate

    Grider Pirate Long timer

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    I rode the RS today with the epoxied up caps. Suhweet!:clap Gawd I wish I'd noticed the loose cap years ago!
    Thanks all for the wise counsel.
    #17
  18. Boxer Metal

    Boxer Metal Mad Scientist

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    Very cool. Nice that there are people that know something about stuff and your problem is fixed:D
    #18